http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done
in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Didn't look very far, did you ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Toug.../dp/B0000DH8I8


michael adams

....

On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 05:53:38 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg Normally I'd gently angle ground
round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The
downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Personally I'd get rid of that ugly old down pipe and replace it with
something modern; looks like it's caused that crack in the first place.



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On 03/06/2018 13:53, wrote:
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.

A SDS brick removing chisel will ne able to reach into most of the
mortar runs... The perps look like they are already cracked where they
are obscured by the pipe, so those ought not be a problem:

https://www.armeg.com/Brick-Removing...Carbide-Tipped


--
Cheers,

John.

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On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 14:03:00 +0100
"michael adams" wrote:

wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how
can I get the job done in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Didn't look very far, did you ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Toug.../dp/B0000DH8I8

I'd have thought Gorilla Glue was the thing to use there. :-)

On 03/06/2018 14:03, michael adams wrote:
wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done
in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Didn't look very far, did you ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Toug.../dp/B0000DH8I8

An answer I would expect from a Remoaner.

On 03/06/2018 13:53, wrote:
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg Normally I'd gently angle ground
round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.

I'd wait until you can remove the pipe and replace/return it.

An SDS chisel can remove the mortar and the bricks if replacing them.

On 03/06/2018 13:53, wrote:
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


Will swapping the bricks solve the problem?


--
Adam

On Sunday, 3 June 2018 14:03:07 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done
in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Didn't look very far, did you ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Toug.../dp/B0000DH8I8


michael adams

...

the only answer that's truly stupid. Thanks.

On Sunday, 3 June 2018 15:28:13 UTC+1, Fredxx wrote:
On 03/06/2018 13:53, tabbypurr wrote:

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg Normally I'd gently angle ground
round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.

I'd wait until you can remove the pipe and replace/return it.

that would be one heck of a long wait.

An SDS chisel can remove the mortar and the bricks if replacing them.

yes - this is surely the right answer. cheers


NT

wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get
the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left
disconected.


Subsidence
you are wasting your time unless that has been fixed


-

On Sunday, 3 June 2018 13:53:40 UTC+1, wrote:
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

You have a serious problem there.
What you need is "stitching bars"
You chisel out the pointing and glue/cement the stitching bars in across the crack.
You can get behind the pipe with a seaming chisel no problem.
You can get hand chisels or SDS chisels.

http://wallfast.co.uk/popular/94-tri...SAAEgKpC_D_BwE

On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 09:22:38 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

the only answer that's truly stupid. Thanks.

Only to be expected from that particular source.



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On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 17:33:54 +0100, "Mark" wrote:


wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get
the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left
disconected.


Subsidence
you are wasting your time unless that has been fixed

Or something like that (settlement, heave etc).

I have worse where the new extension (with a 1+m deep footing) joins
the 1890's cottage (with an 18" deep footing) and it opens and closes
with the tide. ;-)

Therefore, if I 'fixed' (filled?) it when it was closed it would just
open up again and if I fixed it when it was open it wouldn't close and
probably cause other issues elsewhere?

Or do I need to open it up along the whole crack when it's as closed
as it goes and fill it with a flexible sealant?

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 05:53:38 -0700 (PDT)
wrote:

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can
I get the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't
be left disconected.

A plugging chisel is the traditional way to take out mortar, an
appropriate steel in an SDS drill will do it a lot quicker.
I wonder if the cause of the crack is rust scale on the spike holding
the drainpipe, or something more sinister down below. I have a brick
that's been pushed right out of a wall by a rusty spike, but it's on
an end so didn't propagate through adjoining bricks.

On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 05:53:38 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg Normally I'd gently angle ground
round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The
downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

I assume as the photograph doesn't show above the iron bolt that the crack
is only below the bolt?

If so, have you considered drilling out the bolt before it does even more
damage, on the assumption that it is rusting and forcing the crack open?

Who knows, the crack might even start to close!

Others have covered the mortar issues. :-)

Cheers



Dave R


--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
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wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get
the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left
disconected.

I'd do a temporary plastic downpipe off to the side
while the wall is being fixed.

On 03/06/2018 17:22, wrote:
On Sunday, 3 June 2018 14:03:07 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done
in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Didn't look very far, did you ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Toug.../dp/B0000DH8I8


michael adams

...

the only answer that's truly stupid. Thanks.

It was not totally clear from the question if it was a cracked pipe you
wanted to attend to, or cracked bricks.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 03/06/2018 18:44, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 17:33:54 +0100, "Mark" wrote:


wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get
the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left
disconected.


Subsidence
you are wasting your time unless that has been fixed

Or something like that (settlement, heave etc).

I have worse where the new extension (with a 1+m deep footing) joins
the 1890's cottage (with an 18" deep footing) and it opens and closes
with the tide. ;-)

Therefore, if I 'fixed' (filled?) it when it was closed it would just
open up again and if I fixed it when it was open it wouldn't close and
probably cause other issues elsewhere?

Or do I need to open it up along the whole crack when it's as closed
as it goes and fill it with a flexible sealant?

Fill it with something (very) flexible when at it widest. It will then
compress with the seasonal change rather than expand and pull away from
the edge of the crack.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 04 Jun 2018 05:39:22 +1000, Sam wrote:

wrote in message
...
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg Normally I'd gently angle ground
round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.

I'd do a temporary plastic downpipe off to the side while the wall is
being fixed.

Yes, four x 135 degree couplings and enough plastic drainpipe to bridge
the gap. It'll be a lot less stressful than trying to meet some timetable.



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This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
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protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 03/06/2018 17:22, wrote:
On Sunday, 3 June 2018 14:03:07 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I
get the job done
in this case?
The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Didn't look very far, did you ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Toug.../dp/B0000DH8I8


michael adams

...

the only answer that's truly stupid. Thanks.

It was not totally clear from the question if it was a cracked pipe you
wanted to attend to, or cracked bricks.

You wouldnt angle grind around a brick with a cracked pipe.

On 03/06/2018 18:25, harry wrote:
On Sunday, 3 June 2018 13:53:40 UTC+1, wrote:
http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

You have a serious problem there.
What you need is "stitching bars"
You chisel out the pointing and glue/cement the stitching bars in across the crack.
You can get behind the pipe with a seaming chisel no problem.
You can get hand chisels or SDS chisels.

http://wallfast.co.uk/popular/94-tri...SAAEgKpC_D_BwE

I had a crack down one wall. Although I knew it was no problem (it
wasn't moving and was obviously settlement shortly after the extension
was built rather than subsidence), I was moving my mortgage and the
valuer wasn't happy with it. I had to pay for a structural engineer to
look at it, who agreed with me, asked if it had moved while I had lived
there and said that my knowledge of it over time was of more use than
his inspection. Anyway, he recommended (more to keep them happy than
anything) that whenever the room affected was being decorated next, just
to stick some thin rebar in the mortar lines, across the crack and epoxy
mortar it in.

SteveW

In article ,
Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 05:53:38 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg Normally I'd gently angle ground
round a brick to remove it, how can I get the job done in this case? The
downpipe is cast iron and can't be left disconected.


NT

Personally I'd get rid of that ugly old down pipe and replace it with
something modern; looks like it's caused that crack in the first place.

If you maintain cast iron, it has a very long life indeed. PVC, especially
gutters, are very likely to need replacing far more often as they go
brittle. So a leak at a joint usually means replacing the lot. Unlike cast
iron which can be dismantled and fixed.

--
*Bills travel through the mail at twice the speed of cheques *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sunday, 3 June 2018 19:29:15 UTC+1, Rob Morley wrote:
On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 05:53:38 -0700 (PDT)
tabbypurr wrote:

http://i64.tinypic.com/30k8yts.jpg
Normally I'd gently angle ground round a brick to remove it, how can
I get the job done in this case? The downpipe is cast iron and can't
be left disconected.

A plugging chisel is the traditional way to take out mortar, an
appropriate steel in an SDS drill will do it a lot quicker.

yes, a lot more chance of damaging the bricks than a grinder but looks like the only option.

I wonder if the cause of the crack is rust scale on the spike holding
the drainpipe, or something more sinister down below. I have a brick
that's been pushed right out of a wall by a rusty spike, but it's on
an end so didn't propagate through adjoining bricks.

I think you might be right. What the pic doesn't show is that the crack stops above & below that section, and I hadn't noticed that it's right in line with the pipe fixings. Thanks.


NT

On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 20:58:34 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

snip

Therefore, if I 'fixed' (filled?) it when it was closed it would just
open up again and if I fixed it when it was open it wouldn't close and
probably cause other issues elsewhere?

Or do I need to open it up along the whole crack when it's as closed
as it goes and fill it with a flexible sealant?

Fill it with something (very) flexible when at it widest. It will then
compress with the seasonal change rather than expand and pull away from
the edge of the crack.


Noted, thanks.

Cheers, T i m

wrote:

What the pic doesn't show is that the crack stops above & below that
section, and I hadn't noticed that it's right in line with the pipe
fixings.
While you've got the mortar raked out, insert some flat
(stainless?/galvanised?) steel bar above/below the cracked section?

On 04/06/2018 12:18, Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

What the pic doesn't show is that the crack stops above & below that
section, and I hadn't noticed that it's right in line with the pipe
fixings.
While you've got the mortar raked out, insert some flat
(stainless?/galvanised?) steel bar above/below the cracked section?

Helibars glued in with resin, then pointed over:

https://www.helifix.co.uk/products/r...ibar-remedial/



--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
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