I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting? All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

wrote:

I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting? All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

Dunno, but don't assume the corners are right angles!
--

Roger Hayter

Indeed not, However, in my old house I got away with just a few wood blocks
of the depth of the plaster and screwed through those into the main wall
structure, its now 30 years on and they are still there. :-)

However this was bog standard skirting, not posh oak.

Bryan

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

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"Roger Hayter" wrote in message
...
wrote:

I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting? All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

Dunno, but don't assume the corners are right angles!
--

Roger Hayter

On 23/04/2018 20:07, Brian Gaff wrote:
Indeed not, However, in my old house I got away with just a few wood blocks
of the depth of the plaster and screwed through those into the main wall
structure,

That's how the skirting on my 1905 house was originally fitted and how
the replacement skirting is fitted. However it appears that the original
skirting may have been fitted first with the wood blocks acting as
spacers and then the wall was plastered later.

The only advice would offer if using this method is make sure that the
wooden spacers are FIRMLY connected to the wall and the front surface is
true and not sloping in any direction. I used small packing pieces at
the back of the blocks whilst screwing them in to true up the front.



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

replying to Brian Gaff, marcgreene22 wrote:
Hi i had the same problem, what i got advised to do was use some form of
gripfill and pin to the wall until it went off and mine is still fine to this
day, luckily the place i got my skirting from did a product called demsun and
i found that better than your standard gripfill
https://mdfskirtingworld.co.uk/searc...tion=prod uct

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...s-1283027-.htm

On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:


I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting? All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do it?

If you need support to stop it tilting as you fix it, then some loose
offcuts of 2x1 or similar can be dropped in the relevant places. For
longer term support you could use the "board fix" expanding PU foam (its
designed for fixing PB to irregular walls). That will take of the space
and glue it in place on the bits with missing support.

When fixing, only fix to the high points. (A straight skirting with a
varying width of filler behind in most cases looks less objectionable
than a board the follows the contours of the wall and highlights all the
variations).

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

Leave the wood in the room for several days to allow it to acclimatise
first before cutting in. Then measure (and angle finder is good, but a
carpenters beven and protractor will do fine so long as you can divide
by two ;-)) and cut the actual angle you require for the mitre rather
than just assume its going to be a 90 degree corner.

I normally glue the corners when assembling, and then drive a couple of
pins into the joint from both directions. You will need some stainless
or passivated pins so as not to stain on oak.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2018 19:15, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:


I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting? All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do it?

If you need support to stop it tilting as you fix it, then some loose
offcuts of 2x1 or similar can be dropped in the relevant places. For
longer term support you could use the "board fix" expanding PU foam (its
designed for fixing PB to irregular walls). That will take of the space
and glue it in place on the bits with missing support.
Thanks, I hadn't heard of that. Are you thinking of this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta...e-750ml/72793#
?

When fixing, only fix to the high points. (A straight skirting with a
varying width of filler behind in most cases looks less objectionable
than a board the follows the contours of the wall and highlights all the
variations).

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

Leave the wood in the room for several days to allow it to acclimatise
first before cutting in. Then measure (and angle finder is good, but a
carpenters beven and protractor will do fine so long as you can divide
by two ;-)) and cut the actual angle you require for the mitre rather
than just assume its going to be a 90 degree corner.

I normally glue the corners when assembling, and then drive a couple of
pins into the joint from both directions. You will need some stainless
or passivated pins so as not to stain on oak.
That's interesting - I'd assumed that the end grain wouldn't glue well
enough to bother.


Another decision I need to make is whether to scribe it to the parquet
floor or whether to add an oak scotia. Initially I was planning to
scribe it but the gap between the parquet and wall is about 22mm in
places so the moulding is getting attractive because I could use 20mm
skirting.

On 23/04/2018 19:39, wrote:
On 23/04/2018 19:15, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:


I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting? All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do it?

If you need support to stop it tilting as you fix it, then some loose
offcuts of 2x1 or similar can be dropped in the relevant places. For
longer term support you could use the "board fix" expanding PU foam
(its designed for fixing PB to irregular walls). That will take of the
space and glue it in place on the bits with missing support.
Thanks, I hadn't heard of that. Are you thinking of this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta...e-750ml/72793#
?

Yup that kind of thing. (TS have one at 2/3rds the price)


When fixing, only fix to the high points. (A straight skirting with a
varying width of filler behind in most cases looks less objectionable
than a board the follows the contours of the wall and highlights all
the variations).

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

Leave the wood in the room for several days to allow it to acclimatise
first before cutting in. Then measure (and angle finder is good, but a
carpenters beven and protractor will do fine so long as you can divide
by two ;-)) and cut the actual angle you require for the mitre rather
than just assume its going to be a 90 degree corner.

I normally glue the corners when assembling, and then drive a couple
of pins into the joint from both directions. You will need some
stainless or passivated pins so as not to stain on oak.

That's interesting - I'd assumed that the end grain wouldn't glue well
enough to bother.

For real oak I would probably paint some glue on both cut ends and let
it sink in a bit. Then apply glue again and assemble. Have some fine oak
sawdust handy to massage into any gaps where it can combine with the
glue to form a colour matched filler.

Another decision I need to make is whether to scribe it to the parquet
floor or whether to add an oak scotia. Initially I was planning to
scribe it but the gap between the parquet and wall is about 22mm in
places so the moulding is getting attractive because I could use 20mm
skirting.

or 20mm with a packer behind and a little more filling at the top?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2018 21:58, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2018 19:39, wrote:
On 23/04/2018 19:15, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:


I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting?
All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render
so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do
it?

If you need support to stop it tilting as you fix it, then some loose
offcuts of 2x1 or similar can be dropped in the relevant places. For
longer term support you could use the "board fix" expanding PU foam
(its designed for fixing PB to irregular walls). That will take of the
space and glue it in place on the bits with missing support.
Thanks, I hadn't heard of that. Are you thinking of this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta...e-750ml/72793#

?

Yup that kind of thing.Â* (TS have one at 2/3rds the price)


When fixing, only fix to the high points. (A straight skirting with a
varying width of filler behind in most cases looks less objectionable
than a board the follows the contours of the wall and highlights all
the variations).

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

Leave the wood in the room for several days to allow it to acclimatise
first before cutting in. Then measure (and angle finder is good, but a
carpenters beven and protractor will do fine so long as you can divide
by two ;-)) and cut the actual angle you require for the mitre rather
than just assume its going to be a 90 degree corner.

I normally glue the corners when assembling, and then drive a couple
of pins into the joint from both directions. You will need some
stainless or passivated pins so as not to stain on oak.

That's interesting - I'd assumed that the end grain wouldn't glue well
enough to bother.

For real oak I would probably paint some glue on both cut ends and let
it sink in a bit. Then apply glue again and assemble. Have some fine oak
sawdust handy to massage into any gaps where it can combine with the
glue to form a colour matched filler.

Another decision I need to make is whether to scribe it to the parquet
floor or whether to add an oak scotia. Initially I was planning to
scribe it but the gap between the parquet and wall is about 22mm in
places so the moulding is getting attractive because I could use 20mm
skirting.

or 20mm with a packer behind and a little more filling at the top?
I'd been wondering about doing that but adding a strip of oak to the
back of the skirting at the top to make it thicker without the filler.

On 23/04/2018 22:13, wrote:
On 23/04/2018 21:58, John Rumm wrote:

Another decision I need to make is whether to scribe it to the parquet
floor or whether to add an oak scotia. Initially I was planning to
scribe it but the gap between the parquet and wall is about 22mm in
places so the moulding is getting attractive because I could use 20mm
skirting.

or 20mm with a packer behind and a little more filling at the top?

I'd been wondering about doing that but adding a strip of oak to the
back of the skirting at the top to make it thicker without the filler.

Yup that works as well - If you are after a more elaborate looking
profile on the top of the skirting then you can use this trick to build
it up a bit. (or get even more fancy and profile your spacer with a
router first)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:
I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps where
the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block and
plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the skirting? All
I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the plaster/render so I
can fix a batten around the room and then fixing the bottom of the
skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work. How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely mitred
(the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they fit and
stay closed?

Afraid I can't offer anything constructive, but a question if I may -
how do you join the skirting along a length so it looks good? Say if the
room is 4.5m and the skirting comes in 3m lengths. Is following the
grain quite critical?

--
Cheers, Rob

Afraid I can't offer anything constructive, but a question if I may -
how do you join the skirting along a length so it looks good? Say if the
room is 4.5m and the skirting comes in 3m lengths. Is following the
grain quite critical?

Where you need to join skirting in a straight run, saw an internal mitre on the end of one length and an external mitre on the joining end of the next piece and simply overlap the mitres when fixing. If you used the traditional method of fixing skirting to wedges driven inbetween the bricks you could arrange the join to coincide with one of the wedges thus the fixing nails would help keep the mitres together. Never simply butt up two straight cuts together you will never conceal the join no matter how much you fill any shrinkage gaps.

Richard

On 23/04/2018 21:06, RJH wrote:
On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:
I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps
where the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block
and plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the
skirting? All I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the
plaster/render so I can fix a batten around the room and then fixing
the bottom of the skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work.
How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely
mitred (the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they
fit and stay closed?

Afraid I can't offer anything constructive, but a question if I may -
how do you join the skirting along a length so it looks good? Say if the
room is 4.5m and the skirting comes in 3m lengths. Is following the
grain quite critical?

If you put opposing mitres on the ends of the boards, then you get a
bigger (partially long grain) glue area, and you hide the obvious
"straight line" join. You can also pin through the face to reinforce the
join.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/18 21:06, RJH wrote:
On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:
I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps
where the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block
and plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the
skirting? All I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the
plaster/render so I can fix a batten around the room and then fixing
the bottom of the skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work.
How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely
mitred (the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure they
fit and stay closed?

Afraid I can't offer anything constructive, but a question if I may -
how do you join the skirting along a length so it looks good? Say if the
room is 4.5m and the skirting comes in 3m lengths. Is following the
grain quite critical?


I just cut a mitre on both ends and overlapped them - sanded to get a
smooth surface.

To complete the answer, I fixed every couple of ft with 2" stainless
(recommended with oak, that or brass) 5mm woodscrews (the type with a
plain shank and slight taper).

Used a plug cutter + pilot on the board and then knocked a plug in over
the screw.

On 24/04/2018 09:29, Tim Watts wrote:
On 23/04/18 21:06, RJH wrote:
On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:
I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps
where the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block
and plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the
skirting? All I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the
plaster/render so I can fix a batten around the room and then fixing
the bottom of the skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work.
How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely
mitred (the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure
they fit and stay closed?

Afraid I can't offer anything constructive, but a question if I may -
how do you join the skirting along a length so it looks good? Say if
the room is 4.5m and the skirting comes in 3m lengths. Is following
the grain quite critical?


I just cut a mitre on both ends and overlapped them - sanded to get a
smooth surface.


Thanks for the answers. It was more whether having unpainted skirting
and a 'rich' natural wood like oak looked a bit odd at break points. I
was thinking of it in my hallway, for example - about 5m, whether it
would look obvious?

--
Cheers, Rob

On 24/04/2018 13:14, RJH wrote:
On 24/04/2018 09:29, Tim Watts wrote:
On 23/04/18 21:06, RJH wrote:
On 23/04/2018 15:39, wrote:
I'm about to fit some oak skirting in a room with lime plaster over
solid concrete blocks. Down near floor level there are large gaps
where the plaster and render has gone. I'll be screwing to the block
and plugging the holes, but how do I support the bottom of the
skirting? All I can think of is to cut a 1"-1.5" wide strip in the
plaster/render so I can fix a batten around the room and then fixing
the bottom of the skirting to this batten, but that's a lot of work.
How else can I do it?

Also, there are several external corners that need to be closely
mitred (the oak will be oiled, not painted) so how do I make sure
they fit and stay closed?

Afraid I can't offer anything constructive, but a question if I may -
how do you join the skirting along a length so it looks good? Say if
the room is 4.5m and the skirting comes in 3m lengths. Is following
the grain quite critical?


I just cut a mitre on both ends and overlapped them - sanded to get a
smooth surface.


Thanks for the answers. It was more whether having unpainted skirting
and a 'rich' natural wood like oak looked a bit odd at break points. I
was thinking of it in my hallway, for example - about 5m, whether it
would look obvious?

No more so than an oak floor etc. The natural variation is one of the
things that sets real wood apart. One could always sort through the
planks before you start and arrange them in a pleasing end match order.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

replying to nothanks, marcgreene22 wrote:
Hi i had the same problem, what i got advised to do was use some form of
gripfill and pin to the wall until it went off and mine is still fine to this
day, luckily the place i got my skirting from did a product called demsun and
i found that better than your standard gripfill
https://mdfskirtingworld.co.uk/searc...tion=prod uct

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...s-1283027-.htm