While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood there
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned
turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff. Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

Andy Burns wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

AIUI the only universal thing about them is that they could work on AC
or DC, which is unlikely to be an available choice in the context. Just
a kind of brush using motor.

--

Roger Hayter

Roger Hayter wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

AIUI the only universal thing about them is that they could work on AC
or DC

Wouldn't a synchronous motor have "some difficulty" running on DC?

which is unlikely to be an available choice in the context. Just
a kind of brush using motor.

The phrasing of "universal microwave motor" rather than "microwave
universal motor" implies to me more about what it's intended to fit,
that how it works internally, but interested to hear other opinions ...

Andy Burns wrote:

Roger Hayter wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

AIUI the only universal thing about them is that they could work on AC
or DC

Wouldn't a synchronous motor have "some difficulty" running on DC?

which is unlikely to be an available choice in the context. Just
a kind of brush using motor.

The phrasing of "universal microwave motor" rather than "microwave
universal motor" implies to me more about what it's intended to fit,
that how it works internally, but interested to hear other opinions ...

OIC, a totally dfferent animal! (In my defence, you did say 'universal
motor'.)

--

Roger Hayter

Interestingly, a friends light went out in the microwave and the turntable
stopped as well, apparently in that case both work off a low voltage and the
fuse had merely blown when the bulb died.
Still nobody said these were not made to a price!

Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Roger Hayter" wrote in message
...
Andy Burns wrote:

Roger Hayter wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

AIUI the only universal thing about them is that they could work on AC
or DC

Wouldn't a synchronous motor have "some difficulty" running on DC?

which is unlikely to be an available choice in the context. Just
a kind of brush using motor.

The phrasing of "universal microwave motor" rather than "microwave
universal motor" implies to me more about what it's intended to fit,
that how it works internally, but interested to hear other opinions ...

OIC, a totally dfferent animal! (In my defence, you did say 'universal
motor'.)

--

Roger Hayter

On 12/03/2018 11:43, Roger Hayter wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

AIUI the only universal thing about them is that they could work on AC
or DC, which is unlikely to be an available choice in the context. Just
a kind of brush using motor.


The turntable on ours stopped working five years ago. It still heats
things up, although not quite as well.

Built in microwaves seem to have come down in price.

GB wrote:

The turntable on ours stopped working five years ago. It still heats
things up, although not quite as well.

TBH, this one is poor enough at heating evenly /with/ the turntable...

On 12/03/18 11:39, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?


They tend to be the larger motors sometimes used in washing machines.
The motors used to drive turn tables in uwaves (and water pumps in
washing machines and dishwashers) are small, AC, motors.

On 13/03/18 11:39, Brian Reay wrote:
On 12/03/18 11:39, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?


They tend to be the larger motors sometimes used in washing machines.
The motors used to drive turn tables in uwaves (and water pumps in
washing machines and dishwashers) are small, AC, motors.

I dont think so for washing machines and dishwasher. Fairly sure the
ones I have taken out were brushed.

I agree with µ-wave turntables being synchs tho.




--
€œit should be clear by now to everyone that activist environmentalism
(or environmental activism) is becoming a general ideology about humans,
about their freedom, about the relationship between the individual and
the state, and about the manipulation of people under the guise of a
'noble' idea. It is not an honest pursuit of 'sustainable development,'
a matter of elementary environmental protection, or a search for
rational mechanisms designed to achieve a healthy environment. Yet
things do occur that make you shake your head and remind yourself that
you live neither in Joseph Stalins Communist era, nor in the Orwellian
utopia of 1984.€�

Vaclav Klaus

On 13/03/2018 12:26, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 13/03/18 11:39, Brian Reay wrote:
On 12/03/18 11:39, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?


They tend to be the larger motors sometimes used in washing machines.
The motors used to drive turn tables in uwaves (and water pumps in
washing machines and dishwashers) are small, AC, motors.

I dont think so for washing machines and dishwasher. Fairly sure the
ones I have taken out were brushed.


Universal motors of the type I'm describing have brushes.

I don't recall seeing one in a dishwasher but I've not looked at many so
that isn't conclusive.




--

Suspect someone is claiming a benefit under false pretences? Incapacity
Benefit or Personal Independence Payment when they don't need it? They
are depriving those in real need!

https://www.gov.uk/report-benefit-fraud

In article ,
Brian Reay writes:
On 13/03/2018 12:26, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 13/03/18 11:39, Brian Reay wrote:
On 12/03/18 11:39, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?


They tend to be the larger motors sometimes used in washing machines.
The motors used to drive turn tables in uwaves (and water pumps in
washing machines and dishwashers) are small, AC, motors.

I dont think so for washing machines and dishwasher. Fairly sure the
ones I have taken out were brushed.


Universal motors of the type I'm describing have brushes.

I don't recall seeing one in a dishwasher but I've not looked at many so
that isn't conclusive.

Main wash pump motors that I've seen in dishwashers are all
2-phase with a run capacitor.

The waste pumps in dishwashers and washing machines are all
shaded pole motors.

Drum motors in washing machines are universal motors (i.e.
with brushes) when belt driven, and stepper motors (brushless)
when direct drive. Drum motors need good starting torque and a
very wide speed range, which the other motors above don't have.

I can still recall my parents' first washing machine, which
predated any sort of electronic motor control. I'm not sure
what the motor was, but it was single speed, single direction.
It had a sodding great gearbox attached with a handful of large
solenoids around it to do the gear changes. I can still clearly
recall the loud bangs as the different solenoids engaged to
change the drum speed throughout the program. When it was
scrapped, I saved the mains solenoids and some other parts,
which got used in a few projects afterwards. They did tend to
overheat, as the washing machine was for 200V mains, and had
been converted to 240V when the mains voltage changed by
fitting a large autotransformer inside the case, which I
hadn't kept because it was too heavy.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 13/03/2018 11:39, Brian Reay wrote:
On 12/03/18 11:39, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

They tend to be the larger motors sometimes used in washing machines.
The motors used to drive turn tables in uwaves (and water pumps in
washing machines and dishwashers) are small, AC, motors.

Synchronous? Is that why the turntable on my Daewoo sometimes goes one
way; sometimes the other? (And no, it's not a fault.) Electric clocks
sometimes had a mechanism to ensure they went the right way.

--
Max Demian

On 13/03/2018 11:39, Brian Reay wrote:
On 12/03/18 11:39, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

Oh, and how universal are the "so called" universal motors?

They tend to be the larger motors sometimes used in washing machines.
The motors used to drive turn tables in uwaves (and water pumps in
washing machines and dishwashers) are small, AC, motors.

Synchronous? Is that why the turntable on my Daewoo sometimes goes one
way; sometimes the other? (And no, it's not a fault.) Electric clocks
sometimes had a mechanism to ensure they went the right way.

My Grandmother had a clock built in to a large mirror perminently
screwed onto the lounge wall. There was no accesable connector, but it
was wired to its own fuse in the massive metal fuse-box.
The clock was self-starting, but it was 50/50 if it went in the right
direction. As it didn't have a second hand, if there was a power
interruption, you had to wait until you could perceeve some movement
of the second hand and pull the fuse breifly if it was going
backwards.

--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood there
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned
turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff. Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?


In the majority of cases you don't even have to remove the cover to
replace the turntable motor.
at the bottom of most ovens there is a knock-out hatch that you remove
with a rat-tail file or similar. It has lugs so it can be re-fitted in
a different orientation , they often even supply the self-tapping
screw to secure it parked in a hole.

As for the universality of the synchronous motors, they are usually
the same size and rating, but the spindle length (usually half-round)
can vary.


--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

Graham. wrote:

In the majority of cases you don't even have to remove the cover to
replace the turntable motor.

I thought I remembered that sort of arrangement from a previous M/O
this one being built-in I haven't looked underneath it yet.

well, the built-in version has some extra ducting underneath and a
radiator panel behind the normal case, secured with self-tappers, so far
so good ...

.... except I'd inadvertently made life difficult for myself, when
fitting the under-cabinet lighting, I had managed to thread one cable
(with just 2" of slack) straight between the oven and its radiator panel
trapping it inside the cupboard!

at the bottom of most ovens there is a knock-out hatch that you remove
with a rat-tail file or similar. It has lugs so it can be re-fitted in
a different orientation

Yep, it's a common TYJ50-8A7 motor, I think I'll go with £6 from eBay,
rather than £45 one with a Neff sticker on it

On 12/03/18 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood there
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned
turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.Â* Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?


When the turntable motor on my microwave died, a few years ago, I just
looked on eBay for a replacement with the same size shaft and mounting
holes. I fitted it. It worked. It happens to rotate at 4rpm when the
other one had been geared to rotate at 5 but that was the only difference.

Nick

Nick Odell wrote:

It happens to rotate at 4rpm when the
other one had been geared to rotate at 5 but that was the only difference.

I presume the reason many of the motors specify 5/6th of an rpm, is
because they were designed for 1rpm in 60Hz land.

In article ,
Andy Burns writes:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood there
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned
turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff. Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

There's usually a panel on the bottom for gaining access.
They used to be screwed on, but nowadays, you have to cut a few
thin bits of metal to remove them as it's all a single piece of
punched steel. Refitting requires re-orienting the cover so that
the screw holes line up, and finding some self-tapping screws to
screw it back on.

The same motors turn up in many microwaves, except there are
different thicknesses of them, and hence some won't fit in other
ovens.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

There's usually a panel on the bottom for gaining access.
They used to be screwed on, but nowadays, you have to cut a few
thin bits of metal to remove them

Yes, very cheese-paring, leaves various sharp bits of metal to cut the
un-wary, just for the sake of one fewer self-tapper on the factory ...

Andy Burns wrote:

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

IMO, the danger from microwave HV PSUs is a little overstated and little
different to CRTs and the common sense needed.

I was once given an expensive combi job to mend and to test it was
magnetron failure I plugged the magnetron into a £30 Argos one to check
it was still duff (it was.) While fiddling in both I measured the
voltage on the HV caps and they discharged *very* quickly. I think there
were some fairly obvious resistors in parallel.

YMMV, naturally.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

On Monday, 12 March 2018 16:25:23 UTC, Scott M wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?

IMO, the danger from microwave HV PSUs is a little overstated and little
different to CRTs and the common sense needed.

I was once given an expensive combi job to mend and to test it was
magnetron failure I plugged the magnetron into a £30 Argos one to check
it was still duff (it was.) While fiddling in both I measured the
voltage on the HV caps and they discharged *very* quickly. I think there
were some fairly obvious resistors in parallel.

YMMV, naturally.

There should always be discharge resistors & normally are. That does not stop one failing, nor do they offer any protection when the machine is powered.

The hazard is very different to CRT EHT. The latter does not normally give enough current to kill. Microwave HV PSUs provide enough to kill a whole queue of people in one shot.


NT

On 12/03/2018 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood there
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned
turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.Â* Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?



Then discharge the cap.

There are several videos on YouTube that show you how to safely do this.

You might need to buy a resistor etc

--
Adam

On Monday, 12 March 2018 20:40:37 UTC, ARW wrote:
On 12/03/2018 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood there
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned
turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.Â* Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?



Then discharge the cap.

There are several videos on YouTube that show you how to safely do this.

You might need to buy a resistor etc

Apprentices and/or students can be used :-)

In article ,
whisky-dave writes:
On Monday, 12 March 2018 20:40:37 UTC, ARW wrote:
On 12/03/2018 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood ther=
e=20
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next=
=20
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned=20
turntable is no longer going round.
=20
Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,=
=20
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.=C2=A0 Since it's built-in and was=20
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.
=20
I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the=20
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly=
=20
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from=20
tripping the interlocks.
=20
That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox=20
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?
=20
=20
=20
Then discharge the cap.
=20
There are several videos on YouTube that show you how to safely do this.
=20
You might need to buy a resistor etc

Apprentices and/or students can be used :-)

I think they only work once.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Tuesday, 13 March 2018 11:03:54 UTC, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
whisky-dave writes:
On Monday, 12 March 2018 20:40:37 UTC, ARW wrote:
On 12/03/2018 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood ther=
e=20
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next=
=20
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned=20
turntable is no longer going round.
=20
Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,=
=20
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.=C2=A0 Since it's built-in and was=20
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.
=20
I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the=20
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly=
=20
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from=20
tripping the interlocks.
=20
That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox=20
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?
=20
=20
=20
Then discharge the cap.
=20
There are several videos on YouTube that show you how to safely do this.
=20
You might need to buy a resistor etc

Apprentices and/or students can be used :-)

I think they only work once.

Well better than them not working at all ever, anyway what's the problem when you have plenty

On 13/03/2018 11:33, whisky-dave wrote:
On Tuesday, 13 March 2018 11:03:54 UTC, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
whisky-dave writes:
On Monday, 12 March 2018 20:40:37 UTC, ARW wrote:
On 12/03/2018 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood ther=
e=20
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next=
=20
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned=20
turntable is no longer going round.
=20
Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,=
=20
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.=C2=A0 Since it's built-in and was=20
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.
=20
I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the=20
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly=
=20
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from=20
tripping the interlocks.
=20
That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox=20
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?
=20
=20
=20
Then discharge the cap.
=20
There are several videos on YouTube that show you how to safely do this.
=20
You might need to buy a resistor etc

Apprentices and/or students can be used :-)

I think they only work once.

Well better than them not working at all ever, anyway what's the problem when you have plenty



Indeed.


--
Adam

On 12/03/18 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood there
noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's right next
to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the damned
turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.Â* Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?




It could be as simple as a drive belt having snapped. Our first uwave,
one of the early ones, used a simple O ring style drive belt. It was the
only thing that actually failed in about 17/8 years. It ended up going
to the tip simply because it looked 'tatty' in the new kitchen. If it
is the drive belt, try a plumbers' merchant- I got one for the princely
sum of 35p (although that was some years back).

As for the capacitor etc, just take care. The EHT parts are (normally)
well away from the turn table motor etc and pretty obvious.

If it is more serious than than the belt, I would think there is a
reasonable chance you can still get a motor. The parts tend to be used
in a number of makes and, if you know the model, there are loads of
companies selling either original or pattern parts. You could even try a
local, small, repair place, they may have a scrap uwave with a good
motor they will let have for a few quid.

The worst thing is if it is something on the control board. If you are
able to solder and know what a dry joint looks like, have a check for
those. Since the advent of lead free solder I've noticed a lot more dry
joints in domestic items. A bit of attention with a soldering iron and
all is well.

As for replacing the whole unit, they are a standard size so getting one
that will fit shouldn't be an issue. Getting one that matches the other
appliances may, of course, be more of a problem.

On 13/03/2018 11:32, Brian Reay wrote:
On 12/03/18 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
While warming up the cup of coffee I'd forgotten to drink, I stood
there noticing the slight break-up on the bluetooth speaker that's
right next to the microwave ... until I noticed something else, the
damned turntable is no longer going round.

Can turn the spindle by hand, and tell that it's quite highly geared,
it's an 8 year old stainless Neff.Â* Since it's built-in and was
difficult to find one to fit, I'd prefer to repair rather than replace.

I realise the dangers from the capacitor until discharged, and the
beryllium oxide bits, and presume that making sure it's well and truly
back together before powering it back on avoids any trouble from
tripping the interlocks.

That said I expect to be able to get at the turntable motor/gearbox
without going near the "active" end ... any other gotchas?



I have had two similar failures. Both times of a little synchronous
motor. Easily accessed from underneath via an access panel.

No need to go anywhere near the hot bits.

This type of thing

https://www.espares.co.uk/search/pt1737/microwaves/motors?mkwid=1AfYGld4&pcrid=11950667713&kword=micr owave%20synchronous%20motor&match=be&plid={placeme nt}&pdv=c&msclkid=00f4dfed7a6a182c97a6854acd47f8ba &utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Appli ances&utm_term=microwave%20synchronous%20motor&utm _content=Microwave%20-%20Motor




--
Chris B (News)

On 13/03/18 11:32, Brian Reay wrote:
The worst thing is if it is something on the control board.

No, the worst thing is if it is rusted all to ****. Especalially if it
was 'stainless'


--
You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a
kind word alone.

Al Capone