What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of moulded
stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a fine mortar
mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern version is so much
lighter and more like any other GP filler. Of course it may be as good,
but doesn't fill me with confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

--
*Okay, who stopped the payment on my reality check? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 12/07/2017 14:03, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of moulded
stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a fine mortar
mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern version is so much
lighter and more like any other GP filler. Of course it may be as good,
but doesn't fill me with confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Depends a bit on what you are after. I find the tubs of blue circle
ready mix mortar[1] quite handy for touch up jobs. Its a fine sand, and
it contains some lime as a plasticiser. If you add a bit of SBR to the
water, you can make quite a good workable mix that will bond well to
existing masonry, as well as finish and shape well.

Failing that, what about the Tetrion style fillers - still about and
they always used to be marketed for exterior jobs as well as inside.

[1] e.g.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-...-10kg/p/117658

(pricey for any quantity, but handy to have on hand for small jobs).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, 12 July 2017 14:03:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of moulded
stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a fine mortar
mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern version is so much
lighter and more like any other GP filler. Of course it may be as good,
but doesn't fill me with confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Best in what way? Sand & lime is standard stuff.


NT

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 12/07/2017 14:03, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of moulded
stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a fine mortar
mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern version is so much
lighter and more like any other GP filler. Of course it may be as good,
but doesn't fill me with confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Depends a bit on what you are after. I find the tubs of blue circle
ready mix mortar[1] quite handy for touch up jobs. Its a fine sand, and
it contains some lime as a plasticiser. If you add a bit of SBR to the
water, you can make quite a good workable mix that will bond well to
existing masonry, as well as finish and shape well.

Failing that, what about the Tetrion style fillers - still about and
they always used to be marketed for exterior jobs as well as inside.

[1] e.g.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-...-10kg/p/117658

(pricey for any quantity, but handy to have on hand for small jobs).

That would do fine if it is fine sand. Always thought those general
purpose mortars would use rather coarser stuff.
The old Polyfilla which was a mortar was just fine when I used it before.

--
*What hair colour do they put on the driver's license of a bald man? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
On Wednesday, 12 July 2017 14:03:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of moulded
stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a fine mortar
mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern version is so much
lighter and more like any other GP filler. Of course it may be as good,
but doesn't fill me with confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Best in what way? Sand & lime is standard stuff.

Snag is I don't need a big quantity. And generally the smallish bags of
sand I've seen are coarser than what I want.

--
*I'm planning to be spontaneous tomorrow *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, 13 July 2017 00:24:38 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Wednesday, 12 July 2017 14:03:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of moulded
stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a fine mortar
mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern version is so much
lighter and more like any other GP filler. Of course it may be as good,
but doesn't fill me with confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Best in what way? Sand & lime is standard stuff.

Snag is I don't need a big quantity. And generally the smallish bags of
sand I've seen are coarser than what I want.

There's always the option to sand/lime fill then finish it off with just lime. Mix a spoonful of putty, halve it 50/50 with water and paint it on, not too thick.

The upsides of lime are that it doesn't damage the stone in the long run as cement often does, and it has other uses & stores for years.


NT

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
wrote:
On Wednesday, 12 July 2017 14:03:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of moulded
stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a fine mortar
mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern version is so much
lighter and more like any other GP filler. Of course it may be as good,
but doesn't fill me with confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Best in what way? Sand & lime is standard stuff.

Snag is I don't need a big quantity. And generally the smallish bags of
sand I've seen are coarser than what I want.

Wickes Patch Repair mortar is fine for detail, and durable, if a
bit pricey.

That said I've only ever used it brick and concrete rather than
on stone.

The mix by volume is 4.5:1

Because I was only using very small amounts for a succession of jobs
I converted this to weight which I found easier to handle.

where the ratio is 7.3:1



michael adams

....

On 13/07/2017 01:21, wrote:
On Thursday, 13 July 2017 00:24:38 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article
,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Wednesday, 12 July 2017 14:03:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:

What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of
moulded stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted
over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a
fine mortar mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern
version is so much lighter and more like any other GP filler.
Of course it may be as good, but doesn't fill me with
confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Best in what way? Sand & lime is standard stuff.

Snag is I don't need a big quantity. And generally the smallish
bags of sand I've seen are coarser than what I want.

There's always the option to sand/lime fill then finish it off with
just lime. Mix a spoonful of putty, halve it 50/50 with water and
paint it on, not too thick.

You can buy fine grade silver sand in eg garden centres in small amounts
if you need a particular texture. I did this to get the right size
rounded small pebbles for my mortar mix stiff brushing it when set to
expose them and match the existing pointing (apart from being too
light). Fresh lime mortar is a very bright white compared to the aged
stuff in an area where smokey fuel is still permitted.

The upsides of lime are that it doesn't damage the stone in the long
run as cement often does, and it has other uses & stores for years.

I was at a church building tour by a conservator last weekend and he
pointed out the huge damage done to stonework by people using impervious
cement based repointing on old joints instead of breathable lime mortar.

The cement stuff creates an impervious barrier to moisture moving in the
wall and traps it against the lower part of every stone causing freeze
thaw action to spall great chunks off above every line of repointing. It
was astonishing just how much stone damage had occurred in less than a
century on a building that in part dates back to the 1200's.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 01:21, wrote:
On Thursday, 13 July 2017 00:24:38 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article
,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Wednesday, 12 July 2017 14:03:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:

What's the best masonry filler these days? For the sort of
moulded stonework you get on Victorian buildings? To be painted
over.

Did like the old exterior Pollyfilla which was really just a
fine mortar mix. But know from experience lasted well. Modern
version is so much lighter and more like any other GP filler.
Of course it may be as good, but doesn't fill me with
confidence.

Any tips much appreciated.

Best in what way? Sand & lime is standard stuff.

Snag is I don't need a big quantity. And generally the smallish
bags of sand I've seen are coarser than what I want.

There's always the option to sand/lime fill then finish it off with
just lime. Mix a spoonful of putty, halve it 50/50 with water and
paint it on, not too thick.

You can buy fine grade silver sand in eg garden centres in small amounts
if you need a particular texture. I did this to get the right size
rounded small pebbles for my mortar mix stiff brushing it when set to
expose them and match the existing pointing (apart from being too
light). Fresh lime mortar is a very bright white compared to the aged
stuff in an area where smokey fuel is still permitted.

The upsides of lime are that it doesn't damage the stone in the long
run as cement often does, and it has other uses & stores for years.

I was at a church building tour by a conservator last weekend and he
pointed out the huge damage done to stonework by people using impervious
cement based repointing on old joints instead of breathable lime mortar.

The cement stuff creates an impervious barrier to moisture moving in the
wall and traps it against the lower part of every stone causing freeze
thaw action to spall great chunks off above every line of repointing. It
was astonishing just how much stone damage had occurred in less than a
century on a building that in part dates back to the 1200's.

All interesting stuff.

When I bought this place some 40 odd years ago, there was some damage to
the same sort of thing that needs repair now. It a sort of frieze that
runs round the bay window and thingie above the front doors (it's a semi)

No newsgroups in those days so I devised by own repair method. I made a
fibreglass mould of a good bit and used a fairly wet mix of the old
exterior Polyfulla to make good with. And those repairs seem still ok -
it's other bits which have now spalled.

I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well as my
original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

--
*Eat well, stay fit, die anyway

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13/07/2017 08:27, Martin Brown wrote:

The cement stuff creates an impervious barrier to moisture moving in the
wall and traps it against the lower part of every stone causing freeze
thaw action to spall great chunks off above every line of repointing. It
was astonishing just how much stone damage had occurred in less than a
century on a building that in part dates back to the 1200's.

I think it was Jeff Howell who made a statement something along the
lines of "Cement based pointing is has damaged more Victorian brickwork
than the Luftwaffe"


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thursday, 13 July 2017 10:40:02 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 01:21, tabbypurr wrote:

The upsides of lime are that it doesn't damage the stone in the long
run as cement often does, and it has other uses & stores for years.

I was at a church building tour by a conservator last weekend and he
pointed out the huge damage done to stonework by people using impervious
cement based repointing on old joints instead of breathable lime mortar.

The cement stuff creates an impervious barrier to moisture moving in the
wall and traps it against the lower part of every stone causing freeze
thaw action to spall great chunks off above every line of repointing. It
was astonishing just how much stone damage had occurred in less than a
century on a building that in part dates back to the 1200's.

All interesting stuff.

When I bought this place some 40 odd years ago, there was some damage to
the same sort of thing that needs repair now. It a sort of frieze that
runs round the bay window and thingie above the front doors (it's a semi)

No newsgroups in those days so I devised by own repair method. I made a
fibreglass mould of a good bit and used a fairly wet mix of the old
exterior Polyfulla to make good with. And those repairs seem still ok -
it's other bits which have now spalled.

I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well as my
original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

--
*Why is "abbreviated" such a long word?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 7/13/2017 3:44 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

+1, you used to have to hunt around a bit to find it but perhaps it is
easier to find now.

This one isn't too expensive, including delivery, although it is only 16 kg.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lime-Putty...AOSwMmBV3sw K

On Thursday, 13 July 2017 22:09:20 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 3:44 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

+1, you used to have to hunt around a bit to find it but perhaps it is
easier to find now.

This one isn't too expensive, including delivery, although it is only 16 kg.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lime-Putty...AOSwMmBV3sw K

What do you gain by spending so much?


NT

On 7/13/2017 11:32 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, 13 July 2017 22:09:20 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 3:44 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

+1, you used to have to hunt around a bit to find it but perhaps it is
easier to find now.

This one isn't too expensive, including delivery, although it is only 16 kg.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lime-Putty...AOSwMmBV3sw K

What do you gain by spending so much?


NT


So much compared to what? I normally use about two parts sand to one of
lime so this gives me 50 kg of filler. As long as you keep the lid
clipped on properly part filled containers of putty last for ten years.

On Friday, 14 July 2017 10:46:19 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 11:32 PM, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 13 July 2017 22:09:20 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 3:44 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

+1, you used to have to hunt around a bit to find it but perhaps it is
easier to find now.

This one isn't too expensive, including delivery, although it is only 16 kg.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lime-Putty...AOSwMmBV3sw K

What do you gain by spending so much?

So much compared to what? I normally use about two parts sand to one of
lime so this gives me 50 kg of filler. As long as you keep the lid
clipped on properly part filled containers of putty last for ten years.

A bag of lime is a fraction the price, and makes far more than 16kg putty.


NT

On 14/07/2017 17:39, wrote:
On Friday, 14 July 2017 10:46:19 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 11:32 PM, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 13 July 2017 22:09:20 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 3:44 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

+1, you used to have to hunt around a bit to find it but perhaps it is
easier to find now.

This one isn't too expensive, including delivery, although it is only 16 kg.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lime-Putty...AOSwMmBV3sw K

What do you gain by spending so much?

So much compared to what? I normally use about two parts sand to one of
lime so this gives me 50 kg of filler. As long as you keep the lid
clipped on properly part filled containers of putty last for ten years.

A bag of lime is a fraction the price, and makes far more than 16kg putty.

Yes, but unless you are doing a heck of a lot of pointing all at once
has a bad habit of going off before you have used more than a fraction
of it. The lime putty keeps very well wet in its sealed pot.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Friday, 14 July 2017 18:01:59 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote:
On 14/07/2017 17:39, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 14 July 2017 10:46:19 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 11:32 PM, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 13 July 2017 22:09:20 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 3:44 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

+1, you used to have to hunt around a bit to find it but perhaps it is
easier to find now.

This one isn't too expensive, including delivery, although it is only 16 kg.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lime-Putty...AOSwMmBV3sw K

What do you gain by spending so much?

So much compared to what? I normally use about two parts sand to one of
lime so this gives me 50 kg of filler. As long as you keep the lid
clipped on properly part filled containers of putty last for ten years.

A bag of lime is a fraction the price, and makes far more than 16kg putty.

Yes, but unless you are doing a heck of a lot of pointing all at once
has a bad habit of going off before you have used more than a fraction
of it. The lime putty keeps very well wet in its sealed pot.

Dry lime keeps for years in a polythene bag.


NT

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

Bit of Googling produced a ready mixed lime mortar with fine sand. At an
affordable price. How long would it need to dry before being painted?

--
*Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, 15 July 2017 11:14:58 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

Bit of Googling produced a ready mixed lime mortar with fine sand. At an
affordable price. How long would it need to dry before being painted?

For builder's lime in 3 days it's firm, in 2 maybe. Keep it damp if possible. But if you use putty of different hydraulicity the time to set might be different.


NT

wrote:

On Saturday, 15 July 2017 11:14:58 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

Bit of Googling produced a ready mixed lime mortar with fine sand. At an
affordable price. How long would it need to dry before being painted?

For builder's lime in 3 days it's firm, in 2 maybe. Keep it damp if
possible. But if you use putty of different hydraulicity the time to set
might be different.


NT

Lime putty is non-hydraulic. Otherwise it would set before use. I
think it takes weeks to set as it absorbs CO2. OTOH if you are using it
to fill a narrow crack it may not matter. It will probably never set
under impervious paint.

--

Roger Hayter

On Saturday, 15 July 2017 12:53:34 UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 15 July 2017 11:14:58 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water - rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost more.

Bit of Googling produced a ready mixed lime mortar with fine sand. At an
affordable price. How long would it need to dry before being painted?

For builder's lime in 3 days it's firm, in 2 maybe. Keep it damp if
possible. But if you use putty of different hydraulicity the time to set
might be different.

Lime putty is non-hydraulic. Otherwise it would set before use. I
think it takes weeks to set as it absorbs CO2. OTOH if you are using it
to fill a narrow crack it may not matter. It will probably never set
under impervious paint.

No-one suggested using impervious paint. Builder's lime is mildly hydraulic, making it far quicker to set & thus easier to work with.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
Bit of Googling produced a ready mixed lime mortar with fine sand.
At an affordable price. How long would it need to dry before being
painted?

For builder's lime in 3 days it's firm, in 2 maybe. Keep it damp if
possible. But if you use putty of different hydraulicity the time to
set might be different.

Lime putty is non-hydraulic. Otherwise it would set before use. I
think it takes weeks to set as it absorbs CO2. OTOH if you are using
it to fill a narrow crack it may not matter. It will probably never
set under impervious paint.

No-one suggested using impervious paint. Builder's lime is mildly
hydraulic, making it far quicker to set & thus easier to work with.

I'm intending painting it with ordinary masonry paint. As I said in my
first post. Are you saying you can't do this with a lime based mortar?

--
Small asylum seeker wanted as mud flap, must be flexible and willing to travel

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, 15 July 2017 14:44:26 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

Bit of Googling produced a ready mixed lime mortar with fine sand.
At an affordable price. How long would it need to dry before being
painted?

For builder's lime in 3 days it's firm, in 2 maybe. Keep it damp if
possible. But if you use putty of different hydraulicity the time to
set might be different.

Lime putty is non-hydraulic. Otherwise it would set before use. I
think it takes weeks to set as it absorbs CO2. OTOH if you are using
it to fill a narrow crack it may not matter. It will probably never
set under impervious paint.

No-one suggested using impervious paint. Builder's lime is mildly
hydraulic, making it far quicker to set & thus easier to work with.

I'm intending painting it with ordinary masonry paint. As I said in my
first post. Are you saying you can't do this with a lime based mortar?

You can do that if you want. I'd let the filler dry out first.


NT

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
Bit of Googling produced a ready mixed lime mortar with fine sand.
At an affordable price. How long would it need to dry before being
painted?

For builder's lime in 3 days it's firm, in 2 maybe. Keep it damp if
possible. But if you use putty of different hydraulicity the time to
set might be different.

Lime putty is non-hydraulic. Otherwise it would set before use. I
think it takes weeks to set as it absorbs CO2. OTOH if you are using
it to fill a narrow crack it may not matter. It will probably never
set under impervious paint.

No-one suggested using impervious paint. Builder's lime is mildly
hydraulic, making it far quicker to set & thus easier to work with.

I'm intending painting it with ordinary masonry paint. As I said in my
first post. Are you saying you can't do this with a lime based mortar?

If you don't require it to become particularly strong or hard then it
doesn't seem to matter. That's assuming the masonry is happy being
sealed. If you want the joints to be ventilated and the lime mortar to
harden then, no, it would be better to use a breathable paint. Such as
limewash or one the plastic-based variants.


--

Roger Hayter

On 7/14/2017 6:01 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 14/07/2017 17:39, wrote:
On Friday, 14 July 2017 10:46:19 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 11:32 PM, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 13 July 2017 22:09:20 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/13/2017 3:44 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/07/2017 14:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
I'd be quite happy to use a lime based stuff - provided I can
buy it
easily. Cost isn't really an issue as not much materials are
needed.

But I'm not to worried about it lasting forever. If it lasts as
well
as my original repairs, it will see me out. ;-)

Wickes stock builder's lime.

I'd rather some ready mixed stuff where all you do is add water -
rather
than mess around trying to make it myself. Even if it does cost
more.

I got a tub of lime putty which is already slaked and matured (and
continues to mature sealed in the pot). I think 25L minimum size.

You take some out and mix with the right amount of sand and away
you go.
It is very alkaline but otherwise quite easy to work with.

+1, you used to have to hunt around a bit to find it but perhaps it is
easier to find now.

This one isn't too expensive, including delivery, although it is
only 16 kg.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lime-Putty...AOSwMmBV3sw K


What do you gain by spending so much?

So much compared to what? I normally use about two parts sand to one of
lime so this gives me 50 kg of filler. As long as you keep the lid
clipped on properly part filled containers of putty last for ten years.

A bag of lime is a fraction the price, and makes far more than 16kg
putty.

Yes, but unless you are doing a heck of a lot of pointing all at once
has a bad habit of going off before you have used more than a fraction
of it. The lime putty keeps very well wet in its sealed pot.


And it always seems to me to have slightly better plasticity than
something you have just mixed up from dry lime.

I ordered up some lime mortar and it's arrived. Any treatment needed to
the 'stone' before doing the repair? Give it a good soak with a PVA
solution?

--
*I took an IQ test and the results were negative.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, 20 July 2017 17:24:05 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I ordered up some lime mortar and it's arrived. Any treatment needed to
the 'stone' before doing the repair? Give it a good soak with a PVA
solution?

No!


NT

wrote:

On Thursday, 20 July 2017 17:24:05 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I ordered up some lime mortar and it's arrived. Any treatment needed to
the 'stone' before doing the repair? Give it a good soak with a PVA
solution?

No!


NT

Well the soak is good, just not the PVA!

--

Roger Hayter