In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 22:56:19 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


Well done, although that last paragraph was a cross between Jilly
(hic) Goolden and John (Never Mind the Quality, Feel the Width)
Bluthal!

--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

On 16/06/2017 22:56, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


That's the hard way.

Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Remove the piece of wood.

On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 23:17:41 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

On 16/06/2017 22:56, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


That's the hard way.

Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole

How do you hold it there?

and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Ok.

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

That's a pretty big hole cutter if you mean the 'tank' type so do you
mean a fly cutter of some sort?

Remove the piece of wood.

How did you hold it in in the first place?

Cheers, T i m

In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Easier generally to use a router and guide to cut out speaker holes.

--
*Why do overlook and oversee mean opposite things?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, 16 June 2017 22:56:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Router would have been my first choice, fwiw.


NT

On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 16:20:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 16 June 2017 22:56:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Router would have been my first choice, fwiw.


But aren't there lips on either side of the cabinet making the front
face unflat? I guess you could pack the middle up to match?

Cheers, T i m

On 16/06/2017 23:13, Graham. wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 22:56:19 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


Well done, although that last paragraph was a cross between Jilly
(hic) Goolden and John (Never Mind the Quality, Feel the Width)
Bluthal!

;-)

Yup the classic trap of trying to describe how something sounds!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 16/06/2017 23:17, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/06/2017 22:56, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


That's the hard way.

Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Remove the piece of wood.

ok if you have a 162mm hole cutter... (also see comments about not
wanting a case full of sawdust)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 16/06/2017 23:17, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/06/2017 22:56, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


That's the hard way.

Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Remove the piece of wood.

To be fair I did consider routing out a "ring" of wood and just planting
it on the face of the cabinet and sitting the speaker on that.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 17/06/2017 00:29, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 16:20:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 16 June 2017 22:56:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Router would have been my first choice, fwiw.


But aren't there lips on either side of the cabinet making the front
face unflat? I guess you could pack the middle up to match?

There are, but one could make a flat template guide with the required
hole in it and sit that on the top of the speaker. The use a bearing
guided bit to follow it. If building new cabinets from scratch it would
be the way to go.

Once working with an assembled case it would be hard not filling the
case with chips though (which given its a reflex transmission line
design (i.e. folded tapering wave guides), with copious amounts of
wadding in it, would be difficult to get out since its all glued together)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
On 16/06/2017 23:17, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/06/2017 22:56, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


That's the hard way.

Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Remove the piece of wood.

To be fair I did consider routing out a "ring" of wood and just planting
it on the face of the cabinet and sitting the speaker on that.

Yep, Plowman has it sorted. I actually think he's a ****ing genius.
Hang on a sec, he votes Labour. That ****s that idea.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 17/06/2017 00:29, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 16:20:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 16 June 2017 22:56:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Router would have been my first choice, fwiw.


But aren't there lips on either side of the cabinet making the front
face unflat? I guess you could pack the middle up to match?

There are, but one could make a flat template guide with the required hole
in it and sit that on the top of the speaker. The use a bearing guided bit
to follow it. If building new cabinets from scratch it would be the way to
go.

Once working with an assembled case it would be hard not filling the case
with chips though (which given its a reflex transmission line design (i.e.
folded tapering wave guides), with copious amounts of wadding in it, would
be difficult to get out since its all glued together)

Absolutely, a sound engineer would know that.
LMFAO.
Ya hafta laugh at these people.

On Saturday, 17 June 2017 01:05:58 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/06/2017 00:29, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 16:20:52 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 16 June 2017 22:56:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Router would have been my first choice, fwiw.


But aren't there lips on either side of the cabinet making the front
face unflat? I guess you could pack the middle up to match?

There are, but one could make a flat template guide with the required
hole in it and sit that on the top of the speaker. The use a bearing
guided bit to follow it. If building new cabinets from scratch it would
be the way to go.

Once working with an assembled case it would be hard not filling the
case with chips though (which given its a reflex transmission line
design (i.e. folded tapering wave guides), with copious amounts of
wadding in it, would be difficult to get out since its all glued together)

FWIW I was thinking of running it around freehand following the tape, but the objections are of course valid.


NT

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber, this
seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


Interesting, but recently I have noticed just how buggered up my hearing is.
Some music which used to sound so 'full' is now missing chunks of
frequencies and the originals sound like poor imitations. This is very
noticeable when hearing something from way back which I haven't heard for a
long time

On 17/06/2017 00:12, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Easier generally to use a router and guide to cut out speaker holes.


Well yes if you have a router.

Do one pass with a bearing on the bottom to leave a rebate and then put
the bearing on the top and trim the rebate off.

Its a bit more expensive than some double sided tape, some scrap wood
and a cheap hole cutter.
It also depends on there being enough area for the base or using a
router table.

In article ,
T i m wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jun 2017 16:20:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 16 June 2017 22:56:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Router would have been my first choice, fwiw.


But aren't there lips on either side of the cabinet making the front
face unflat? I guess you could pack the middle up to match?

Cheers, T i m

All you need is to provide a centre for your router guide if increasing
the size of the hole. Any rebates needed (if say the speaker unit fits
flush with the baffle) made first, before cutting the main hole. You may
have to do some hand router work for fixing lugs etc.

I have a pretty cheap router hole cutter that came from Lidl that is just
great for this. Most traditional routers can't go down to a small enough
radius for things like tweeters. Neither of my other ones do.

--
*ONE NICE THING ABOUT EGOTISTS: THEY DON'T TALK ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Graham. wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Well done, although that last paragraph was a cross between Jilly
(hic) Goolden and John (Never Mind the Quality, Feel the Width)
Bluthal!

I thought he was auditioning for a guest column in What HiFi :-P

On 17/06/17 11:08, Andy Burns wrote:
Graham. wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Well done, although that last paragraph was a cross between Jilly
(hic) Goolden and John (Never Mind the Quality, Feel the Width)
Bluthal!

I thought he was auditioning for a guest column in What HiFi :-P


"still the deep easy open base response"

Well at least you didn't confuse low frequencies with a fish, or a
bottled beer...but a slang name for a street drug...



--
The biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.

"dennis@home" Wrote in message:
On 17/06/2017 00:12, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Easier generally to use a router and guide to cut out speaker holes.


Well yes if you have a router.

Do one pass with a bearing on the bottom to leave a rebate and then put
the bearing on the top and trim the rebate off.

Its a bit more expensive than some double sided tape, some scrap wood
and a cheap hole cutter.
It also depends on there being enough area for the base or using a
router table.


And it would spray sh1tty bits all over the place including inside
the cab....
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Wrote in message:
On Friday, 16 June 2017 22:56:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Router would have been my first choice, fwiw.


NT


:-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 17/06/17 11:16, jim wrote:
"dennis@home" Wrote in message:
On 17/06/2017 00:12, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Easier generally to use a router and guide to cut out speaker holes.


Well yes if you have a router.

Do one pass with a bearing on the bottom to leave a rebate and then put
the bearing on the top and trim the rebate off.

Its a bit more expensive than some double sided tape, some scrap wood
and a cheap hole cutter.
It also depends on there being enough area for the base or using a
router table.


And it would spray sh1tty bits all over the place including inside
the cab....

That's why you remove the insulation first...,



--
You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a
kind word alone.

Al Capone

On 17/06/2017 12:30, jim wrote:
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 17/06/17 11:16, jim wrote:
"dennis@home" Wrote in message:
On 17/06/2017 00:12, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Easier generally to use a router and guide to cut out speaker holes.


Well yes if you have a router.

Do one pass with a bearing on the bottom to leave a rebate and then put
the bearing on the top and trim the rebate off.

Its a bit more expensive than some double sided tape, some scrap wood
and a cheap hole cutter.
It also depends on there being enough area for the base or using a
router table.


And it would spray sh1tty bits all over the place including inside
the cab....

That's why you remove the insulation first...,


Presumably you'd disassemble the complicated narrow porting John
described too...

Its more inaccessible than narrow... Something similar to:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...LCabDesign.jpg




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 17/06/2017 08:26, Richard wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


Interesting, but recently I have noticed just how buggered up my hearing
is. Some music which used to sound so 'full' is now missing chunks of
frequencies and the originals sound like poor imitations. This is very
noticeable when hearing something from way back which I haven't heard
for a long time

Sadly a risk from DIY if one does not take care as well!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 17/06/2017 11:15, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 17/06/17 11:08, Andy Burns wrote:
Graham. wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair

Well done, although that last paragraph was a cross between Jilly
(hic) Goolden and John (Never Mind the Quality, Feel the Width)
Bluthal!

I thought he was auditioning for a guest column in What HiFi :-P


"still the deep easy open base response"

Well at least you didn't confuse low frequencies with a fish, or a
bottled beer...but a slang name for a street drug...

Although you highlight I can't spell bass ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 17/06/17 11:16, jim wrote:
"dennis@home" Wrote in message:
On 17/06/2017 00:12, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Easier generally to use a router and guide to cut out speaker holes.


Well yes if you have a router.

Do one pass with a bearing on the bottom to leave a rebate and then put
the bearing on the top and trim the rebate off.

Its a bit more expensive than some double sided tape, some scrap wood
and a cheap hole cutter.
It also depends on there being enough area for the base or using a
router table.


And it would spray sh1tty bits all over the place including inside
the cab....

That's why you remove the insulation first...,


Presumably you'd disassemble the complicated narrow porting John
described too...

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 16/06/2017 23:17, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/06/2017 22:56, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


That's the hard way.

Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Remove the piece of wood.

ok if you have a 162mm hole cutter... (also see comments about not
wanting a case full of sawdust)

Your cabinets are totally glued together? Fairly rare, I'd say.

--
*If tennis elbow is painful, imagine suffering with tennis balls *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 17/06/2017 15:53, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 16/06/2017 23:17, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/06/2017 22:56, John Rumm wrote:
In case you need a tidy technique for enlarging a cut-out in timber,
this seemed to work rather well:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/RTL3_Speaker_repair


That's the hard way.

Cut a piece of wood to fit across the back of the hole and put a bit of
packing on the middle to bring it approximately flush with the front..

Get hole cutter in drill and make new hole.

Remove the piece of wood.

ok if you have a 162mm hole cutter... (also see comments about not
wanting a case full of sawdust)

Your cabinets are totally glued together? Fairly rare, I'd say.

Probably because of the transmission line path inside. The only access
seems to be through the back panel connector block which is about 4"
square and has the crossover on the back of it, and through the speaker
cutouts and the end of the transmission line port.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/