D-i-yers

Has anyone here used *both* CT1 and Sikaflex 291i adhesive / sealants
to be able to make a real world comment on them both please?

I used CT1 to re-join the 'nothing will glue' plastic tub of a 13
month old washing machine we saved from landfill ... and that lasted
another 7 years of daily exposure to heat, vibration and chemicals so
am pretty confident CT1 will be ok for my wooden dinghy job, but I've
never used any Sikaflex product to compare?

But it seems others do swear by Sikaflex so it must be good, but why
would I use it over CT1?

Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:

Has anyone here used *both* CT1 and Sikaflex 291i adhesive / sealants

No just the former, used to glue an edge soldier course of paving blocks
down to a concrete base, so not much relevance to your plastic question
anyway, other than to say they've stayed very firmly put.

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 10:26:38 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

T i m wrote:

Has anyone here used *both* CT1 and Sikaflex 291i adhesive / sealants

No just the former, used to glue an edge soldier course of paving blocks
down to a concrete base, so not much relevance to your plastic question
anyway, other than to say they've stayed very firmly put.

Well, at least that re-confirms my appreciation for CT1 as a
multi-purpose solution. ;-)

I asked about the Sikaflex because I wondered if it had 'other'
properties not available or foremost in CT1.

It often is the case that people get used to / swear by something but
it becomes outmoded (especially these days) so superceded by something
better.

Like, I like Gripfill (the chemical version) but wouldn't use it over
silicone where I required waterproofedness or some flexibility. I will
use generic 'release agents' but prefer Plus Gas if it is available.

I've never had much luck with 'No more nails' or the like, maybe
because I've rarely done anything that would make best use of NMN
features. I have used Gorilla Glues and they seem to also work as I
expect.

FWIW, my current scenario needing a strongish but non-hardening
sealant is to semi-flexibly mount the dagger board casing of a folding
boat down to it's hog piece (keel). Because the said hog piece flexes
as the both is both folded / unfolded and in use (because it is a
'flexible boat'), you have to retain some flexibility in said joint
whilst keeping it strong to withstand side loads whilst sailing etc.

Cheers, T i m

On 6/11/2017 10:11 AM, T i m wrote:
D-i-yers

Has anyone here used *both* CT1 and Sikaflex 291i adhesive / sealants
to be able to make a real world comment on them both please?

I used CT1 to re-join the 'nothing will glue' plastic tub of a 13
month old washing machine we saved from landfill ... and that lasted
another 7 years of daily exposure to heat, vibration and chemicals so
am pretty confident CT1 will be ok for my wooden dinghy job, but I've
never used any Sikaflex product to compare?

But it seems others do swear by Sikaflex so it must be good, but why
would I use it over CT1?

Cheers, T i m

Which CT1 product are you talking about?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CT1-Sealant...s=ct1+adhesive

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/DIY-Tools...s=ct1+adhesive

this one

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 14:50:12 +0100, newshound
wrote:

snip

Which CT1 product are you talking about?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CT1-Sealant...s=ct1+adhesive


Yes, that one (as I have an identical tube here). ;-)

That was what I used to seal the plastic washing machine tub when I
cut it open with the saber saw and the company who supply the folding
boats recommend for secondary seam sealing of the older boats.

Cheers, T i m

On 6/11/2017 3:12 PM, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 14:50:12 +0100, newshound
wrote:

snip

Which CT1 product are you talking about?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CT1-Sealant...s=ct1+adhesive


Yes, that one (as I have an identical tube here). ;-)

That was what I used to seal the plastic washing machine tub when I
cut it open with the saber saw and the company who supply the folding
boats recommend for secondary seam sealing of the older boats.

Cheers, T i m


Thanks, I shall add some to my collection!

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 15:27:09 +0100, newshound
wrote:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/CT1-Sealant...s=ct1+adhesive


Yes, that one (as I have an identical tube here). ;-)

That was what I used to seal the plastic washing machine tub when I
cut it open with the saber saw and the company who supply the folding
boats recommend for secondary seam sealing of the older boats.


Thanks, I shall add some to my collection!

;-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbzozmZpT2c

(no connection etc)

The only thing is like with many other sealants of that type, as soon
as you cut the top open the countdown has started. Now, that's not so
bad if you leave (=waste) half a £2 tube of silicone but it's not so
'easy' to waste half a ~£10 tube of something. ;-(

However, if the job you do with it save say, the cost of a new washing
machine or boat, then it's not so much of a waste. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 10:11:39 +0100, T i m wrote:

D-i-yers

Has anyone here used *both* CT1 and Sikaflex 291i adhesive / sealants
to be able to make a real world comment on them both please?

I used CT1 to re-join the 'nothing will glue' plastic tub of a 13
month old washing machine we saved from landfill ... and that lasted
another 7 years of daily exposure to heat, vibration and chemicals so
am pretty confident CT1 will be ok for my wooden dinghy job, but I've
never used any Sikaflex product to compare?

But it seems others do swear by Sikaflex so it must be good, but why
would I use it over CT1?

Cheers, T i m

Apology in advance - no knowledge of those two.
About 4 years ago I used Evebuild's Stixall to glue an angle iron bench to
concrete slabs. This is outside and fully exposed to the weather. It is
still flexible, I've just given it a good hard wrenching and can't move it.
I over-painted it with water-based green shed and fence paint and that is
still intact.
http://www.everbuild.co.uk/adhesives/grab/stixall-1

I'd intended to use bolts but the feet are too close to the edges of the
slabs.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 16:35:31 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 10:11:39 +0100, T i m wrote:

D-i-yers

Has anyone here used *both* CT1 and Sikaflex 291i adhesive / sealants
to be able to make a real world comment on them both please?

snip

Apology in advance - no knowledge of those two.

No probs. ;-)

About 4 years ago I used Evebuild's Stixall to glue an angle iron bench to
concrete slabs.

I did similar with my workshop bench (as the outer legs would be close
to the edge of the screed) sticking it (well the mounting pads) to the
concrete floor using Gripfill. ;-)

This is outside and fully exposed to the weather.

That is a good / tough test (Gripfill isn't waterproof).

It is
still flexible, I've just given it a good hard wrenching and can't move it.

phew

I over-painted it with water-based green shed and fence paint and that is
still intact.
http://www.everbuild.co.uk/adhesives/grab/stixall-1

Looks like good stuff. So, would you say it remains 'rubbery' flexible
or just not rigid Peter?

I'd intended to use bolts but the feet are too close to the edges of the
slabs.

I bonded plates with bolts sticking up to the floor under the bench
leg positions and could then adjust them all with shim washers to get
the bench level ... and then locked them down with nuts on the top.

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 21:50:37 +0100, T i m wrote:

It is
still flexible, I've just given it a good hard wrenching and can't move it.

phew

I over-painted it with water-based green shed and fence paint and that is
still intact.
http://www.everbuild.co.uk/adhesives/grab/stixall-1

Looks like good stuff. So, would you say it remains 'rubbery' flexible
or just not rigid Peter?

Rubbery, firmish, fully regains shape after deformation (note: I'm not
trying destructive tests!).


I'd intended to use bolts but the feet are too close to the edges of the
slabs.

I bonded plates with bolts sticking up to the floor under the bench
leg positions and could then adjust them all with shim washers to get
the bench level ... and then locked them down with nuts on the top.

That's a good ides, but I'd now have to cut through the adhesive - don't
want to risk moving the slabs.
I didn't mind a bit of slope as it helps drainage.

I cleaned and repainted the bench after removing the old 1mm, rusty, top and
sticking/screwing (st. st. screws, flush) a 4mm top to it. Used Aldidl metal
paint then, as it was a v. shiny, silvery, finish, did it with drab green
fence paint - remarkably durable.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Mon, 12 Jun 2017 07:58:49 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 21:50:37 +0100, T i m wrote:

It is
still flexible, I've just given it a good hard wrenching and can't move it.

phew

I over-painted it with water-based green shed and fence paint and that is
still intact.
http://www.everbuild.co.uk/adhesives/grab/stixall-1

Looks like good stuff. So, would you say it remains 'rubbery' flexible
or just not rigid Peter?

Rubbery, firmish, fully regains shape after deformation (note: I'm not
trying destructive tests!).

Ok thanks Peter. Sounds like it might be worth getting some to
experiment with. ;-)

And it's about half the price of the alternatives we have been talking
about.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+%26+Sealants/d180/Grab+Adhesive/sd3199/Stixall+Adhesive+%26+Sealant+290ml/p69243

http://tinyurl.com/ybpjfete



I'd intended to use bolts but the feet are too close to the edges of the
slabs.

I bonded plates with bolts sticking up to the floor under the bench
leg positions and could then adjust them all with shim washers to get
the bench level ... and then locked them down with nuts on the top.

That's a good ides, but I'd now have to cut through the adhesive - don't
want to risk moving the slabs.

Sure, not an easy retro fit etc.

I didn't mind a bit of slope as it helps drainage.

Yup, on an outdoor bench I's agree it being 'a good thing'. ;-)

I cleaned and repainted the bench after removing the old 1mm, rusty, top and
sticking/screwing (st. st. screws, flush) a 4mm top to it. Used Aldidl metal
paint then, as it was a v. shiny, silvery, finish, did it with drab green
fence paint - remarkably durable.

What I find funny about doing this sort of stuff is how you can often
*stumble* upon a very durable solution ...

We had a small fibreglass dinghy and the inside was looking a bit
tired (the fibreglass wasn't very well wetted out in places etc). So
Dad bought some 'special two part paint' that had some very strict
prerequisites that we followed to the letter. Not long after it
started falling off in chunks. ;-(

I was rebuilding my 14' sailing dinghy (new mahogany transom and some
deck repairs) and whilst re / varnishing the wood, spilt a dew drops
in the dusty fibreglass hull and when cleaning up afterwards, found
the blobs of polyurethane varnish had stuck like you know what.

So, I chemically cleaned the inside of the hull and painted it with
first slightly diluted and then full fat white polyurethane yacht
paint and it too stuck like you know what. So much for that 'special'
paint eh. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Mon, 12 Jun 2017 11:02:42 +0100, T i m wrote:

I cleaned and repainted the bench after removing the old 1mm, rusty, top and
sticking/screwing (st. st. screws, flush) a 4mm top to it. Used Aldidl metal
paint then, as it was a v. shiny, silvery, finish, did it with drab green
fence paint - remarkably durable.

What I find funny about doing this sort of stuff is how you can often
*stumble* upon a very durable solution ...

We had a small fibreglass dinghy and the inside was looking a bit
tired (the fibreglass wasn't very well wetted out in places etc). So
Dad bought some 'special two part paint' that had some very strict
prerequisites that we followed to the letter. Not long after it
started falling off in chunks. ;-(

I was rebuilding my 14' sailing dinghy (new mahogany transom and some
deck repairs) and whilst re / varnishing the wood, spilt a dew drops
in the dusty fibreglass hull and when cleaning up afterwards, found
the blobs of polyurethane varnish had stuck like you know what.

So, I chemically cleaned the inside of the hull and painted it with
first slightly diluted and then full fat white polyurethane yacht
paint and it too stuck like you know what. So much for that 'special'
paint eh. ;-)

shame-faced about 10 - 12 years ago I put some pale emulsion on the wall
above the bath then, after a few years, noticed that there were a couple of
drip-runs on the side of the bath (not easy to see even knowing where they
are). After 10 years of use and cleaning the paint is still there and too
hard to remove easily. I've left it just to see how long it'll last.

I bet an expensive 'enamel' paint would wear off in a couple of years.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Mon, 12 Jun 2017 17:28:24 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

snip

shame-faced about 10 - 12 years ago I put some pale emulsion on the wall
above the bath then, after a few years, noticed that there were a couple of
drip-runs on the side of the bath (not easy to see even knowing where they
are). After 10 years of use and cleaning the paint is still there and too
hard to remove easily. I've left it just to see how long it'll last.

I bet an expensive 'enamel' paint would wear off in a couple of years.

You could probably count on it. ;-)

Cheers, T i m