My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303
to fix flooring to joists.

I assumed this would be readily available through suppliers on the web
but not so.

There may be some confusion about the designation as I have seen this
referred to as Cascol Winter.

As the house is unheated I am having to consider low temperatures (below
10deg. C) for application.

Does anyone have any knowledge of likely sources?
--
Tim Lamb

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303
to fix flooring to joists.

I assumed this would be readily available through suppliers on the web
but not so.

There may be some confusion about the designation as I have seen this
referred to as Cascol Winter.

As the house is unheated I am having to consider low temperatures (below
10deg. C) for application.

Does anyone have any knowledge of likely sources?

Just a thought: why do you need to glue the floorboards to the joists,
rather than screwing them? Are you creating trouble if you ever need to lift
the boards for any reason?

I mention it because we got a rat in the loft a few years ago and it died
under the floorboards, creating a hell of a stink. The loft had been boarded
by the previous occupants with large sheets of MDF. They'd adopted a
belt-and-braces approach: the boards were screwed down but when I undid all
the screws on one board, it wouldn't budge so it looks as if they'd glued
the boards as well.

Luck was on my side: the rat had very conveniently died near the end of the
boarded section, and *just* within arm's length when I reached underneath -
another inch or so and it would have been out of reach and I'd have had to
find a way of getting the board up (or cutting it either side of the joist).

My advice is "screw, don't glue".

On Friday, 3 February 2017 12:15:38 UTC, NY wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303
to fix flooring to joists.

I assumed this would be readily available through suppliers on the web
but not so.

There may be some confusion about the designation as I have seen this
referred to as Cascol Winter.

As the house is unheated I am having to consider low temperatures (below
10deg. C) for application.

Does anyone have any knowledge of likely sources?

Just a thought: why do you need to glue the floorboards to the joists,
rather than screwing them? Are you creating trouble if you ever need to lift
the boards for any reason?

I mention it because we got a rat in the loft a few years ago and it died
under the floorboards, creating a hell of a stink. The loft had been boarded
by the previous occupants with large sheets of MDF. They'd adopted a
belt-and-braces approach: the boards were screwed down but when I undid all
the screws on one board, it wouldn't budge so it looks as if they'd glued
the boards as well.

Luck was on my side: the rat had very conveniently died near the end of the
boarded section, and *just* within arm's length when I reached underneath -
another inch or so and it would have been out of reach and I'd have had to
find a way of getting the board up (or cutting it either side of the joist).

My advice is "screw, don't glue".

And if something does need to be glued down, why would it need to be casco?


NT

NY wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue
3303 to fix flooring to joists.

I assumed this would be readily available through suppliers on the
web but not so.

There may be some confusion about the designation as I have seen this
referred to as Cascol Winter.

As the house is unheated I am having to consider low temperatures
(below 10deg. C) for application.

Does anyone have any knowledge of likely sources?

Just a thought: why do you need to glue the floorboards to the joists,
rather than screwing them? Are you creating trouble if you ever need
to lift the boards for any reason?

I mention it because we got a rat in the loft a few years ago and it
died under the floorboards, creating a hell of a stink. The loft had
been boarded by the previous occupants with large sheets of MDF.
They'd adopted a belt-and-braces approach: the boards were screwed
down but when I undid all the screws on one board, it wouldn't budge
so it looks as if they'd glued the boards as well.

Luck was on my side: the rat had very conveniently died near the end
of the boarded section, and *just* within arm's length when I reached
underneath - another inch or so and it would have been out of reach
and I'd have had to find a way of getting the board up (or cutting it
either side of the joist).
My advice is "screw, don't glue".

We use gorilla glue (expanding) for fixing floor sheets down, they are then
fixed with nailgun nails.

The glue is to prevent squeaking, it's not a permanent fix

Tim Lamb wrote:
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303
to fix flooring to joists.

Sounds disastrous as soon as you need access underneath to fix
something or install something.

--
Chris Green
·

In article ,
Phil L wrote:
We use gorilla glue (expanding) for fixing floor sheets down, they are
then fixed with nailgun nails.

The glue is to prevent squeaking, it's not a permanent fix

Fine where time is of the essence and costs matter - but for any type of
floor boarding at home and DIY, I'd use screws.

--
*No radio - Already stolen.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
We use gorilla glue (expanding) for fixing floor sheets down, they
are then fixed with nailgun nails.

The glue is to prevent squeaking, it's not a permanent fix

Fine where time is of the essence and costs matter - but for any type
of floor boarding at home and DIY, I'd use screws.

With expansion and contraction, and also shrinkage etc due to central
heating, screws/nails alone aren't good enough, hence the requirement for a
buffer.

I'm talking chiboard flooring here, not t&g

On 2/3/2017 3:41 PM, Chris Green wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303
to fix flooring to joists.

Sounds disastrous as soon as you need access underneath to fix
something or install something.

+1. And I'm with Dave, screw rather than nail.

Is there some significance in the fact that this is associated with
underfloor heating? Perhaps to provide more resistance to movement of
the boards or joists with temperature and moisture changes.

"Phil L" Wrote in message:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
We use gorilla glue (expanding) for fixing floor sheets down, they
are then fixed with nailgun nails.

The glue is to prevent squeaking, it's not a permanent fix

Fine where time is of the essence and costs matter - but for any type
of floor boarding at home and DIY, I'd use screws.

With expansion and contraction, and also shrinkage etc due to central
heating, screws/nails alone aren't good enough, hence the requirement for a
buffer.

I'm talking chiboard flooring here, not t&g

I can't imagine why using gorilla glue would add any extra
resilience to expansion/contraction forces (over just
screws).
Is this an NHBC guarantee (cough) stipulated method I wonder?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

jim wrote:
"Phil L" Wrote in message:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
We use gorilla glue (expanding) for fixing floor sheets down, they
are then fixed with nailgun nails.

The glue is to prevent squeaking, it's not a permanent fix

Fine where time is of the essence and costs matter - but for any
type of floor boarding at home and DIY, I'd use screws.

With expansion and contraction, and also shrinkage etc due to central
heating, screws/nails alone aren't good enough, hence the
requirement for a buffer.

I'm talking chiboard flooring here, not t&g

I can't imagine why using gorilla glue would add any extra
resilience to expansion/contraction forces (over just
screws).
Is this an NHBC guarantee (cough) stipulated method I wonder?

It stops 'em creaking when they're being walked on

Tim Lamb presented the following explanation :
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303 to
fix flooring to joists.

Seems unlikely, but could it be Cascomite?

"Phil L" Wrote in message:
jim wrote:
"Phil L" Wrote in message:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
We use gorilla glue (expanding) for fixing floor sheets down, they
are then fixed with nailgun nails.

The glue is to prevent squeaking, it's not a permanent fix

Fine where time is of the essence and costs matter - but for any
type of floor boarding at home and DIY, I'd use screws.

With expansion and contraction, and also shrinkage etc due to central
heating, screws/nails alone aren't good enough, hence the
requirement for a buffer.

I'm talking chiboard flooring here, not t&g

I can't imagine why using gorilla glue would add any extra
resilience to expansion/contraction forces (over just
screws).
Is this an NHBC guarantee (cough) stipulated method I wonder?

It stops 'em creaking when they're being walked on

Mmm for how long though?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
We use gorilla glue (expanding) for fixing floor sheets down, they are
then fixed with nailgun nails.

The glue is to prevent squeaking, it's not a permanent fix

Fine where time is of the essence and costs matter - but for any type of
floor boarding at home and DIY, I'd use screws.

The heating supplier advises glue and screw.


--
Tim Lamb

In message , Harry Bloomfield
writes
Tim Lamb presented the following explanation :
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue
3303 to fix flooring to joists.

Seems unlikely, but could it be Cascomite?

Crikey! I was using cascamite 1 shot at school in 1960:-) As far as I
remember it turns Oak blue:-(

Probably a better glue than needed for this job and is not happy setting
off at low temperatures.

--
Tim Lamb

In message , Chris Green
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303
to fix flooring to joists.

Sounds disastrous as soon as you need access underneath to fix
something or install something.

Yes! Hence the series of queries aimed at getting it right first time.
Boiler flow and return and hot supply pipe will be run in an accessible
duct. The wiring is also run in a duct limiting the underfloor runs to
along joists rather than the usual holes or slots.

Under the glued and screwed floor is 150mm of Rockwool resting on
chicken wire stapled to the joists! The simplest access is going to be
through the plasterboard.


--
Tim Lamb

on 03/02/2017, Tim Lamb supposed :
Crikey! I was using cascamite 1 shot at school in 1960:-) As far as I
remember it turns Oak blue:-(

Probably a better glue than needed for this job and is not happy setting off
at low temperatures.

The Cascamite I had in mind, was uncoloured and waterproof when set, it
set up stronger than the wood. I think it was supplied as a powder
which you mixed with water.

On 04/02/17 09:48, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
on 03/02/2017, Tim Lamb supposed :
Crikey! I was using cascamite 1 shot at school in 1960:-) As far as I
remember it turns Oak blue:-(

Probably a better glue than needed for this job and is not happy
setting off at low temperatures.

The Cascamite I had in mind, was uncoloured and waterproof when set, it
set up stronger than the wood. I think it was supplied as a powder which
you mixed with water.

Correct. What turned oak blue was probably Aerolite 306, which used
formic acid as a catalyst.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerolite_(adhesive)

Urea formaldehyde glue

Cascamite was a casein glue.



--
"Corbyn talks about equality, justice, opportunity, health care, peace,
community, compassion, investment, security, housing...."
"What kind of person is not interested in those things?"

"Jeremy Corbyn?"

On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 09:48:15 +0000, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

on 03/02/2017, Tim Lamb supposed :
Crikey! I was using cascamite 1 shot at school in 1960:-) As far as I
remember it turns Oak blue:-(

Probably a better glue than needed for this job and is not happy
setting off at low temperatures.

The Cascamite I had in mind, was uncoloured and waterproof when set, it
set up stronger than the wood. I think it was supplied as a powder which
you mixed with water.

Yup. I have some. Broken dowels in chairs that I had to drill out.

Quite forgiving on gap filling, and very strong.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 04/02/2017 13:48, Bob Eager wrote:
On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 09:48:15 +0000, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

on 03/02/2017, Tim Lamb supposed :
Crikey! I was using cascamite 1 shot at school in 1960:-) As far as I
remember it turns Oak blue:-(

Probably a better glue than needed for this job and is not happy
setting off at low temperatures.

The Cascamite I had in mind, was uncoloured and waterproof when set, it
set up stronger than the wood. I think it was supplied as a powder which
you mixed with water.

Yup. I have some. Broken dowels in chairs that I had to drill out.

Quite forgiving on gap filling, and very strong.


IME things that shrink don't expand again unless they get wet (or are
exposed to high relative humidiity), so ideally floorboards need to be
left for 6 months before fixing. Probably not practical these days.
Does chip flooring even need fixings? In lofts I've done that way it
hasn't budged (even if the joists have)