I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned
on the landing upstairs, and plugged into a power socket and a cat5e
socket connected to a switch for the last couple of years, and it has
worked very well.

The router is downstairs, where the walls are very thick, and with
limitation on where to position it, the signal is just about OK
downstairs, but very poor upstairs.

With the WR710N in place all is working well: portable devices
(Android-based) automatically switch between the networks using an app,
and fixed-position devices use the strongest signal available.

Problem I have is that there is no obvious place to put the WR710N (it
has accidentally been kicked several times, and look pretty ugly where
it is now...), so I am looking to move it to the attic. Running power
and Cat5 cables there is not a problem.

I did some experiments with signal strength when placing it in the attic
using extension cables. I had to leave the hatch door open as a result
(almost immediately below where I intend to place it). The results were
very similar to the signal strength received from its current position.

The attic is dry, floored (for storage only) with chipboard, and has
several ventilation opening to the outside.

My questions a

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the
signal strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going
to work...

3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to
one of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be
pretty high there?

On Tuesday, 17 January 2017 13:23:08 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:
I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned
on the landing upstairs, and plugged into a power socket and a cat5e
socket connected to a switch for the last couple of years, and it has
worked very well.

My questions a

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

Probably not. High temperatures (which I would have though is likely to happen in your loft in summer) is more likely to be a problem. Put a couple of icepacks in the freezer. Remove icepacks, wrap up router with icepacks and see what happens.


2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the
signal strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going
to work...

Why not try it on an extension lead? But it won't make much difference. Comparable to the interference caused by your own body, I'd guess.


3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to
one of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be
pretty high there?

ITYM uninhabitable?

Unless you mean an RCD rather than a fused switch, I don't understand the relevance of humidity. Your lighting circuit runs through the same space - does that have any problems?

Assuming you don't have a hole in your roof, it will be fine. Any problems will kill your router first.

On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation on
it and that is the problem with cold areas.


2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the
signal strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going
to work...

Only if the door is metal.


3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to
one of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be
pretty high there?

If its being done correctly with T&E there would be no advantage other
than being able to reset it from below. That would require the fused
switch to be below and not next to it.

On 17/01/2017 13:48, dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation on
it and that is the problem with cold areas.

Good point, forgot about it being slightly warm when turned on.


2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the
signal strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going
to work...

Only if the door is metal.

10mm ply.

3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to
one of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be
pretty high there?

If its being done correctly with T&E there would be no advantage other
than being able to reset it from below. That would require the fused
switch to be below and not next to it.

I thought about this point too, but there is no easy way to have the
switch downstairs.

It was only the safety aspect that I was concerned about - i.e.
terminating at a pretty humid space (up to 90% in the winter)

On 17/01/2017 13:41, wrote:
On Tuesday, 17 January 2017 13:23:08 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:
I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned
on the landing upstairs, and plugged into a power socket and a cat5e
socket connected to a switch for the last couple of years, and it has
worked very well.

My questions a

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

Probably not. High temperatures (which I would have though is likely to happen in your loft in summer) is more likely to be a problem. Put a couple of icepacks in the freezer. Remove icepacks, wrap up router with icepacks and see what happens.

I've lived in this house for ~10 years, and the outside temperature has
only once, briefly, been 25c. Typically in the summer it is in the low
20c's.

2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the
signal strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going
to work...

Why not try it on an extension lead? But it won't make much difference. Comparable to the interference caused by your own body, I'd guess.

....because the extension cables have to go through the hatch, forcing me
to leave it open... ;-)

3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to
one of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be
pretty high there?

ITYM uninhabitable?

Unless you mean an RCD rather than a fused switch, I don't understand the relevance of humidity. Your lighting circuit runs through the same space - does that have any problems?

It was terminating at the (sometimes very) humid environment that I was
concerned about.


Assuming you don't have a hole in your roof, it will be fine. Any problems will kill your router first.

In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation on
it and that is the problem with cold areas.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they get
to cold.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation on
it and that is the problem with cold areas.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they get
to cold.

********.


--
"What do you think about Gay Marriage?"
"I don't."
"Don't what?"
"Think about Gay Marriage."

In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote: 8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely
to drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation
on it and that is the problem with cold areas.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they
get to cold.

********.

I've met the problem - it isn't ********

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 17/01/2017 13:57, JoeJoe wrote:

I've lived in this house for ~10 years, and the outside temperature has
only once, briefly, been 25c. Typically in the summer it is in the low
20c's.

Temperatures inside roof spaces can exceed the outside air temperature
if the sun is shining on the tiles/slates.

On 17/01/2017 14:11, charles wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote: 8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely
to drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation
on it and that is the problem with cold areas.

Indeed it is condensation on cold metallic parts that will cause
problems. The metals thermal inertia lags ambient air temperature.

Have to ask why is your loft space quite so humid?
Insufficient ventilation invites rot.

BTW I suspect in summertime it may hit above 40C in the loft space.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they
get to cold.

********.

I've met the problem - it isn't ********

Even for basic ethylene glycol capacitor electrolyte the temperature
range is down to -20C. Most capacitors are good to around -50C.

Nominal capacitance decreases by about 20% as they get colder with most
of that being lost between -20C and -40C - but these are not normal UK
weather temperatures. -15C is the coldest I have personally seen in the
UK but ISTR the mainland UK record coldest temperature is around -25C.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 17/01/2017 14:48, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/01/2017 14:11, charles wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote: 8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely
to drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation
on it and that is the problem with cold areas.

Indeed it is condensation on cold metallic parts that will cause
problems. The metals thermal inertia lags ambient air temperature.

The case itself is plastic.



Have to ask why is your loft space quite so humid?
Insufficient ventilation invites rot.

I am not sure that it is so humid. With the attic being very well
ventilated I assumed that the humidity level inside the attic will is
the same as outside?


BTW I suspect in summertime it may hit above 40C in the loft space.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they
get to cold.

********.

I've met the problem - it isn't ********

Even for basic ethylene glycol capacitor electrolyte the temperature
range is down to -20C. Most capacitors are good to around -50C.

Nominal capacitance decreases by about 20% as they get colder with most
of that being lost between -20C and -40C - but these are not normal UK
weather temperatures. -15C is the coldest I have personally seen in the
UK but ISTR the mainland UK record coldest temperature is around -25C.

In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/01/2017 14:11, charles wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote: 8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely
to drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation
on it and that is the problem with cold areas.

Indeed it is condensation on cold metallic parts that will cause
problems. The metals thermal inertia lags ambient air temperature.

Have to ask why is your loft space quite so humid?
Insufficient ventilation invites rot.

BTW I suspect in summertime it may hit above 40C in the loft space.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they
get to cold.

********.

I've met the problem - it isn't ********

Even for basic ethylene glycol capacitor electrolyte the temperature
range is down to -20C. Most capacitors are good to around -50C.

Nominal capacitance decreases by about 20% as they get colder with most
of that being lost between -20C and -40C - but these are not normal UK
weather temperatures. -15C is the coldest I have personally seen in the
UK but ISTR the mainland UK record coldest temperature is around -25C.

I think, in my case, wind chill came into it.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

I'd be tempted to try it just using long leads any old way first to see if
there are any issues of coverage.
If not then you only need to worry about the climate. I would say that as
long as its well away from places where the rain might come in, it will last
OK as as its always on its internal heat will probably keep it warm.
I'm surprised though if it can get a signal to boost on another channel
then why won't devices pick up the signal. I suspect the answer is probably
the naff output power and small aerials in portable devices compared to
something that can be mains powered.

Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"JoeJoe" wrote in message
...
I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned on
the landing upstairs, and plugged into a power socket and a cat5e socket
connected to a switch for the last couple of years, and it has worked very
well.

The router is downstairs, where the walls are very thick, and with
limitation on where to position it, the signal is just about OK
downstairs, but very poor upstairs.

With the WR710N in place all is working well: portable devices
(Android-based) automatically switch between the networks using an app,
and fixed-position devices use the strongest signal available.

Problem I have is that there is no obvious place to put the WR710N (it has
accidentally been kicked several times, and look pretty ugly where it is
now...), so I am looking to move it to the attic. Running power and Cat5
cables there is not a problem.

I did some experiments with signal strength when placing it in the attic
using extension cables. I had to leave the hatch door open as a result
(almost immediately below where I intend to place it). The results were
very similar to the signal strength received from its current position.

The attic is dry, floored (for storage only) with chipboard, and has
several ventilation opening to the outside.

My questions a

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between 0-40c.
It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to drop below
5c. Would that be a problem?

2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the signal
strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going to
work...

3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to one
of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be pretty
high there?

On 17/01/17 14:11, charles wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote: 8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely
to drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation
on it and that is the problem with cold areas.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they
get to cold.

********.

I've met the problem - it isn't ********

Whatever you met, it wasn't that.


--
If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
...I'd spend it on drink.

Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

On 17/01/17 14:48, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/01/2017 14:11, charles wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote: 8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely
to drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation
on it and that is the problem with cold areas.

Indeed it is condensation on cold metallic parts that will cause
problems. The metals thermal inertia lags ambient air temperature.

Have to ask why is your loft space quite so humid?
Insufficient ventilation invites rot.

BTW I suspect in summertime it may hit above 40C in the loft space.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they
get to cold.

********.

I've met the problem - it isn't ********

Even for basic ethylene glycol capacitor electrolyte the temperature
range is down to -20C. Most capacitors are good to around -50C.

Nominal capacitance decreases by about 20% as they get colder with most
of that being lost between -20C and -40C - but these are not normal UK
weather temperatures. -15C is the coldest I have personally seen in the
UK but ISTR the mainland UK record coldest temperature is around -25C.

The point is he was talking about LEAKAGE. Serious leakage. That is not
normally temperature dependent even on electrolytics.



--
"Women actually are capable of being far more than the feminists will
let them."

On 17/01/17 15:30, charles wrote:
In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/01/2017 14:11, charles wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 17/01/17 14:05, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote: 8

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely
to drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

No. As its on all the time the device is unlikely to get condensation
on it and that is the problem with cold areas.

Indeed it is condensation on cold metallic parts that will cause
problems. The metals thermal inertia lags ambient air temperature.

Have to ask why is your loft space quite so humid?
Insufficient ventilation invites rot.

BTW I suspect in summertime it may hit above 40C in the loft space.

There is a tendencey for capactors to refuse to hold charge when they
get to cold.

********.

I've met the problem - it isn't ********

Even for basic ethylene glycol capacitor electrolyte the temperature
range is down to -20C. Most capacitors are good to around -50C.

Nominal capacitance decreases by about 20% as they get colder with most
of that being lost between -20C and -40C - but these are not normal UK
weather temperatures. -15C is the coldest I have personally seen in the
UK but ISTR the mainland UK record coldest temperature is around -25C.

I think, in my case, wind chill came into it.

More ********

wind chill only affects damp components, or components that generate
their own heat.

Otherwise the component will be at ambient irrespective of thee wind.

--
"Women actually are capable of being far more than the feminists will
let them."

On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 13:57:48 +0000, JoeJoe wrote:

I've lived in this house for ~10 years, and the outside temperature has
only once, briefly, been 25c. Typically in the summer it is in the low
20c's.

And I guess you have never ventured into the loft mid-afternoon on a
bright sunny summers day. With just sarking under the outer roof
covering temperature in the loft will be pushing 50 C, over 40 C with
ease.

This is far more likely to be a problem than cold (it'll keep itself
warm) or humidity. The latter might be a problem if ventilation is
poor.

And why bother with mains power to it? Use PoE either passive (yuk
but works) or proper 802.3af or 802.3at. The TP-Link TL-POE10R
802.3af spliter is commonly available for £9.99. The expensive bit
maybe the PoE injector, I quite like the plugtop type as it's a
single box solution. The ethernet cable just loops through it.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned
on the landing upstairs,
Why not mount it in the upstairs hall just below the ceiling?

Bill

On 17/01/2017 19:17, Bill Wright wrote:
On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned
on the landing upstairs,
Why not mount it in the upstairs hall just below the ceiling?

Bill


That was my original plan, but with relatively low ceiling, it would
look awful (trust me, and we are not house proud at all...)

On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned
on the landing upstairs, and plugged into a power socket and a cat5e
socket connected to a switch for the last couple of years, and it has
worked very well.

The router is downstairs, where the walls are very thick, and with
limitation on where to position it, the signal is just about OK
downstairs, but very poor upstairs.

With the WR710N in place all is working well: portable devices
(Android-based) automatically switch between the networks using an app,
and fixed-position devices use the strongest signal available.

Problem I have is that there is no obvious place to put the WR710N (it
has accidentally been kicked several times, and look pretty ugly where
it is now...), so I am looking to move it to the attic. Running power
and Cat5 cables there is not a problem.

I did some experiments with signal strength when placing it in the attic
using extension cables. I had to leave the hatch door open as a result
(almost immediately below where I intend to place it). The results were
very similar to the signal strength received from its current position.

The attic is dry, floored (for storage only) with chipboard, and has
several ventilation opening to the outside.

My questions a

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the
signal strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going
to work...

3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to
one of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be
pretty high there?

I have had various routers in my attic for the past 12 years. I chose
that location because that is where the telephone line enters the house.
I now have a couple of NAS boxes a network switch and some VOIP
telephone equipment. I use an old router as an additional WiFi access
point in one of the bedrooms. I have not had any problems because of the
temperature.




--
Michael Chare

On 18/01/2017 22:37, Michael Chare wrote:


On 17/01/2017 13:23, JoeJoe wrote:
I've been using one of these:
http://uk.tp-link.com/products/detai...TL-WR710N.html, positioned
on the landing upstairs, and plugged into a power socket and a cat5e
socket connected to a switch for the last couple of years, and it has
worked very well.

The router is downstairs, where the walls are very thick, and with
limitation on where to position it, the signal is just about OK
downstairs, but very poor upstairs.

With the WR710N in place all is working well: portable devices
(Android-based) automatically switch between the networks using an app,
and fixed-position devices use the strongest signal available.

Problem I have is that there is no obvious place to put the WR710N (it
has accidentally been kicked several times, and look pretty ugly where
it is now...), so I am looking to move it to the attic. Running power
and Cat5 cables there is not a problem.

I did some experiments with signal strength when placing it in the attic
using extension cables. I had to leave the hatch door open as a result
(almost immediately below where I intend to place it). The results were
very similar to the signal strength received from its current position.

The attic is dry, floored (for storage only) with chipboard, and has
several ventilation opening to the outside.

My questions a

1. It is stated in the manual that operating temperature is between
0-40c. It regularly drops below 0c here in the winter, but unlikely to
drop below 5c. Would that be a problem?

2. Would having the attic hatch closed likely to greatly affect the
signal strength? Just trying to save me running the cables if not going
to work...

3. I intend to provide the power by adding a spur socket connected to
one of the sockets on the ring main upstairs. Would it be a good
idea/necessary to connect the spur socket using a fused switch (placed
next to it)? i.e. because it is in an inhabitable attic space that is
somewhat open to the the elements and although dry, humidity can be
pretty high there?

I have had various routers in my attic for the past 12 years. I chose
that location because that is where the telephone line enters the house.
I now have a couple of NAS boxes a network switch and some VOIP
telephone equipment. I use an old router as an additional WiFi access
point in one of the bedrooms. I have not had any problems because of the
temperature.

Thanks a lot!

Not too much work, so worth a try.

high up in the attic so the wifi only has to go through the ceilings not any brick walls ?