UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

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Default halide to LED

Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

AJH
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On Sat, 31 Dec 2016 22:05:46 -0000, wrote:

Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html


I have a corn lamp, it didn't last long. LEDs keep failing. keep having to replace individual ones.

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On Sat, 31 Dec 2016 22:05:46 +0000, wrote:

Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

AJH


Average Life: 45,000 Hours

After having quite a few LED bulbs fail in fairly light use after
about a year, I treat these sorts of claims with a pinch of salt.
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On Sat, 31 Dec 2016 23:37:19 -0000, Caecilius wrote:

On Sat, 31 Dec 2016 22:05:46 +0000, wrote:

Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

AJH


Average Life: 45,000 Hours

After having quite a few LED bulbs fail in fairly light use after
about a year, I treat these sorts of claims with a pinch of salt.


Most LEDs are rated at 100,000 hours on their own, and 50,000 hours inside a fitting. But most companies put them far too close together and they overheat. The only LED lights I've seen last for ages are ones that look like fluorescent tubes. The LEDs are well spaced out and never exceed body temperature.

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On 31/12/2016 22:05, wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?


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In article ,
wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?


https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html


AJH


A decent 70w HMI has an output of about 5600 lumens.

Your LED claims 1700. Which is almost certainly optimistic.

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In article ,
writes:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

That lamp is way less light output than a 70W metal halide - probably
only around 1/3rd.
Secondly, because the light source is not going to be in the position
the luminare was designed for, it's likely the luminare optics are not
going to direct as much light in the right direction.
Thirdly, being a much bigger light source, it's likely to block much
more of the reflected light from the rear than would be the case for
a metal halide lamp, further reducing output.

I suspect you will be disappointed.

You will need something in the 50-60W power rating, and with light
output directed (because the reflector isn't going to be very
effective with a large opaque bulb fitted. Something more like:

http://www.eslightbulbs.com/wp-conte...gh-Power-1.jpg
(which is 60W, and roughly same output as a 70W halide lamp).

TBH, I'm not sure it's worth changing the lamp to LED. If you really
want to go LED, it would be better to change the luminare for an LED
one, but you aren't likely to make any savings to pay for that if you
are already using metal halide.

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On 31/12/2016 22:05, wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

AJH


Its not going to be anywhere near as bright as the metal halide lamp.

How well ventilated is the fitting as a LED lamp doesn't like being much
above warm.

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On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:54:50 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 31/12/2016 22:05, wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?


Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp
in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the
bulb.

Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but
need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.

AJH
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On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 17:13:41 -0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

You will need something in the 50-60W power rating, and with light
output directed (because the reflector isn't going to be very
effective with a large opaque bulb fitted. Something more like:

http://www.eslightbulbs.com/wp-conte...gh-Power-1.jpg
(which is 60W, and roughly same output as a 70W halide lamp).


I can see this working with a bayonet fitting but with the screw would
it end up pointing down?

TBH, I'm not sure it's worth changing the lamp to LED. If you really
want to go LED, it would be better to change the luminare for an LED
one, but you aren't likely to make any savings to pay for that if you
are already using metal halide.


I'll probably just replace the ballast and halide bulb then

AJH


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In article ,
wrote:
On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:54:50 +0000, ARW
wrote:


On 31/12/2016 22:05, wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?


Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp
in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the
bulb.


Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but
need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.


Large LEDs do generate heat in their PS. You'd need to be sure the fitting
allows the LED to run no hotter than it is designed to. But in my
experience, many of the claims for LED life have to be taken with a pinch
of salt - especially on a rareish type like this.

Notice you have to register it to get the 'free' 5 year warranty. Be
interesting to see the conditions of this.

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On 03/01/2017 13:23, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 17:13:41 -0000 (UTC),

(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

You will need something in the 50-60W power rating, and with light
output directed (because the reflector isn't going to be very
effective with a large opaque bulb fitted. Something more like:

http://www.eslightbulbs.com/wp-conte...gh-Power-1.jpg
(which is 60W, and roughly same output as a 70W halide lamp).


I can see this working with a bayonet fitting but with the screw would
it end up pointing down?

TBH, I'm not sure it's worth changing the lamp to LED. If you really
want to go LED, it would be better to change the luminare for an LED
one, but you aren't likely to make any savings to pay for that if you
are already using metal halide.


I'll probably just replace the ballast and halide bulb then

AJH


Take the top off the pole and fit a LED flood light?
A good 30W one should be OK.
If its a concrete pole you probably want to make a bracket and fix it
with stainless banding.

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In article ,
writes:
On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:54:50 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 31/12/2016 22:05,
wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?


Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp
in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the
bulb.

Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but
need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.


You might want to consider a dual arc lamp, such as GE Superlife.
One arc runs, until it dies, and then the other arc runs. It will
cost more, but your relamping cost is probably much more than the
parts.

Note, you don't want a dual arc grow lamp (that's something
completely different - both arcs run together for different colours).

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On 03/01/2017 11:08, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:54:50 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 31/12/2016 22:05,
wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?


Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp
in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the
bulb.

Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but
need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.


Well as your LED option is not a guarantee a longer life in this case
then I would be looking at swapping the ballast and lamp or follow
dennis suggestion of strapping a LED flood light below the existing head
(swapping the head for a proper LED head sounds expensive).

BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is this
a H&S mamagment requirement?

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg

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ARW wrote:
On 03/01/2017 11:08, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:54:50 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 31/12/2016 22:05,
wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and
ignition gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?


Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp
in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the
bulb.

Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but
need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.


Well as your LED option is not a guarantee a longer life in this case
then I would be looking at swapping the ballast and lamp or follow
dennis suggestion of strapping a LED flood light below the existing
head (swapping the head for a proper LED head sounds expensive).

BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is
this a H&S mamagment requirement?

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp
in a lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg


Was he monkeying around?




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On Wednesday, 4 January 2017 18:02:22 UTC, ARW wrote:

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg


https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...473b34143e.jpg


NT
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On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:16:08 -0000, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

ARW wrote:
On 03/01/2017 11:08, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:54:50 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 31/12/2016 22:05,
wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and
ignition gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?

Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp
in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the
bulb.

Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but
need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.


Well as your LED option is not a guarantee a longer life in this case
then I would be looking at swapping the ballast and lamp or follow
dennis suggestion of strapping a LED flood light below the existing
head (swapping the head for a proper LED head sounds expensive).

BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is
this a H&S mamagment requirement?

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp
in a lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg


Was he monkeying around?


Was that a subtle black joke :-)

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On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:02:24 -0000, ARW wrote:

On 03/01/2017 11:08, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:54:50 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 31/12/2016 22:05,
wrote:
Has anyone any experience of swapping a 70W halide lamp and ignition
gubbins out for a E27 LED "corn" lamp?

https://www.lightrabbit.co.uk/20-wat...-smd-5050.html

Is this for a low bay fitting?


Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp
in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the
bulb.

Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but
need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.


Well as your LED option is not a guarantee a longer life in this case
then I would be looking at swapping the ballast and lamp or follow
dennis suggestion of strapping a LED flood light below the existing head
(swapping the head for a proper LED head sounds expensive).

BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is this
a H&S mamagment requirement?

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg


How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder? No wonder council tax is so high.

--
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On 04/01/2017 18:26, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:02:24 -0000, ARW
wrote:


I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg


How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder?
No wonder council tax is so high.



What would you lean the ladder on?


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On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 19:10:39 -0000, ARW wrote:

On 04/01/2017 18:26, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:02:24 -0000, ARW
wrote:


I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg


How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder?
No wonder council tax is so high.



What would you lean the ladder on?


Er.... let me see. The lamppost?!?

--
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A few minutes later, the pilot asked the flight attendants if everyone was buckled in and ready.
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On 04/01/2017 19:58, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 19:10:39 -0000, ARW
wrote:

On 04/01/2017 18:26, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:02:24 -0000, ARW
wrote:


I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp
in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg

How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder?
No wonder council tax is so high.



What would you lean the ladder on?


Er.... let me see. The lamppost?!?



Have a closer look.

The lights open upwards.

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On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 20:27:07 -0000, ARW wrote:

On 04/01/2017 19:58, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 19:10:39 -0000, ARW
wrote:

On 04/01/2017 18:26, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:02:24 -0000, ARW
wrote:

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp
in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg

How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder?
No wonder council tax is so high.


What would you lean the ladder on?


Er.... let me see. The lamppost?!?



Have a closer look.

The lights open upwards.


So?

--
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On 04/01/2017 19:58, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 19:10:39 -0000, ARW
wrote:

On 04/01/2017 18:26, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:02:24 -0000, ARW
wrote:


I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp
in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg

How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder?
No wonder council tax is so high.



What would you lean the ladder on?


Er.... let me see. The lamppost?!?


Go on then.

Which part of it?


--
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On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 21:46:12 -0000, ARW wrote:

On 04/01/2017 19:58, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 19:10:39 -0000, ARW
wrote:

On 04/01/2017 18:26, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:02:24 -0000, ARW
wrote:

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp
in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg

How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder?
No wonder council tax is so high.


What would you lean the ladder on?


Er.... let me see. The lamppost?!?


Go on then.

Which part of it?


As high as possible. How can someone in your line of work not know how to use a ladder?

--
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On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 18:02:24 +0000, ARW
wrote:

BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is this
a H&S mamagment requirement?


Yes, falls from height get very expensive nowadays and it just takes
one of the tenants to send a photo of an "unsafe" lift to HSE to
result in a prosecution. Alternative is to hire a MEWP as a scaffold
tower cannot get to the light.

AJH

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On Wednesday, 4 January 2017 22:40:01 UTC, wrote:
On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 18:02:24 +0000, ARW
wrote:


BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is this
a H&S mamagment requirement?


Yes, falls from height get very expensive nowadays and it just takes
one of the tenants to send a photo of an "unsafe" lift to HSE to
result in a prosecution. Alternative is to hire a MEWP as a scaffold
tower cannot get to the light.

AJH


When it's expensive to get up there, use a hoisted light fitting. Or you could fit a bunch of lights, and switch from one to another on the ground as they fail.


NT
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wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 4 January 2017 22:40:01 UTC,
wrote:
On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 18:02:24 +0000, ARW
wrote:


BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is this
a H&S mamagment requirement?


Yes, falls from height get very expensive nowadays and it just takes
one of the tenants to send a photo of an "unsafe" lift to HSE to
result in a prosecution. Alternative is to hire a MEWP as a scaffold
tower cannot get to the light.


When it's expensive to get up there,


It isnt when you are setup to do it. Ours use the same bucket truck to
do that as they use to do any work on anything that isnt underground.

use a hoisted light fitting.


Much cheaper to have a bucket truck.

Or you could fit a bunch of lights, and switch
from one to another on the ground as they fail.


Ditto.

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On Thursday, 5 January 2017 05:14:17 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 4 January 2017 22:40:01 UTC,
wrote:
On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 18:02:24 +0000, ARW
wrote:


BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is this
a H&S mamagment requirement?

Yes, falls from height get very expensive nowadays and it just takes
one of the tenants to send a photo of an "unsafe" lift to HSE to
result in a prosecution. Alternative is to hire a MEWP as a scaffold
tower cannot get to the light.


When it's expensive to get up there,


It isnt when you are setup to do it.


Maybeb it;s the cost of setting yourself up to do it that's the problem.

Ours use the same bucket truck to
do that as they use to do any work on anything that isnt underground.


Think we call them cherry pickers yuo need to go on a course before yuo;r'e allowed to use one thouygh a friend went on this course.


use a hoisted light fitting.


Much cheaper to have a bucket truck.


cheaper to get someone else to do it.
But one day maybe we'll be able to buy a drone to do it.


Or you could fit a bunch of lights, and switch
from one to another on the ground as they fail.


Ditto.


I ofetn wonde rin theaters and cinimas who changes the very high up bulbs as we used to have thst problem here with a 60ft high ceiling, you just can't ask any memeber of staff to change a 'bulb'.

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On 04/01/2017 21:08, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 04/01/17 18:18, wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 January 2017 18:02:22 UTC, ARW wrote:

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp in a
lamp post!

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/9/9...026_124822.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...473b34143e.jpg



This church tower one still scares me.

https://ladderassociation.org.uk/wp-...Submission.jpg


Why?
It looks stable to me.
They could have replaced the beam out of the window with some rope to
scare you some more but it would still work.




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whisky-dave wrote
Rod Speed wrote
wrote
wrote
ARW wrote


BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land?
Is this a H&S mamagment requirement?


Yes, falls from height get very expensive nowadays and it just
takes one of the tenants to send a photo of an "unsafe" lift to
HSE to result in a prosecution. Alternative is to hire a MEWP
as a scaffold tower cannot get to the light.


When it's expensive to get up there,


It isnt when you are setup to do it.


Maybeb it;s the cost of setting yourself up to do it that's the problem.


Not for ours, they have to have bucket trucks to work on them anyway.

Ours use the same bucket truck to do that as they use
to do any work on anything that isnt underground.


Think we call them cherry pickers


Cherry pickers are different in detail.

http://www.cargotecnia.com/wp-conten...ft_vo36mhi.jpg
http://boomliftscissorlift.net/wp-co...rrypicker1.jpg

yuo need to go on a course before yuo;r'e allowed to use one thouygh


Just as true of working on the street lights.

a friend went on this course.


use a hoisted light fitting.


Much cheaper to have a bucket truck.


cheaper to get someone else to do it.


Not when you need the bucket truck to do work on other stuff.

But one day maybe we'll be able to buy a drone to do it.


Unlikely with those big street lights that open upwards.

Or you could fit a bunch of lights, and switch
from one to another on the ground as they fail.


Ditto.


I ofetn wonde rin theaters and cinimas who changes the very high
up bulbs as we used to have thst problem here with a 60ft high
ceiling, you just can't ask any memeber of staff to change a 'bulb'.


Some of them have access from the roof space.
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On Thu, 5 Jan 2017 03:03:15 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

Think we call them cherry pickers yuo need to go on a course before yuo;r'e allowed to use one thouygh a friend went on this course.


You need to be trained and competent under Health & Safety at work
act, no need for the course, that's just proof to cover your employer.
I have a apposite qualification (City and Guilds NPTC Level 3 Award in
the Safe Use of a Chainsaw from a Mobile Elevated Work Platform (QCF))
but it still costs a couple of hundred quid to hire a mewp and get it
to site and back.

AJH
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On Thursday, 5 January 2017 11:03:17 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
I ofetn wonde rin theaters and cinimas who changes the very high up
bulbs as we used to have thst problem here with a 60ft high ceiling,
you just can't ask any memeber of staff to change a 'bulb'.


In newer theatres (and I think TV studios) the whole lighting 'grid' can be lowered. In older theatres in many cases it's possible to walk on the ceiling grid.

In other cases a tallescope is often used - carefully.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/entertainment/...allescopes.htm

On Wednesday 24 June 2015 Stafford Borough Council was fined £20,000 after an incident on 16 July 2014 where Stafford Gatehouse Theatre employees were using a Tallescope which overturned causing the worker in the cage to suffer a fractured bone in his back. There were only two workers involved and the Tallescope was being moved with a person in the cage.

Owain
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In article ,
wrote:
I ofetn wonde rin theaters and cinimas who changes the very high up
bulbs as we used to have thst problem here with a 60ft high ceiling,
you just can't ask any memeber of staff to change a 'bulb'.


In newer theatres (and I think TV studios) the whole lighting 'grid' can
be lowered. In older theatres in many cases it's possible to walk on the
ceiling grid.


Don't really see why you'd need to lower the entire grid.

TV studios tend to have lighting barrels which can take several lights or
telescopes which take a single one. Both usually with some form of
electric motor to raise and lower them. Individual lights may need to be
at different heights, so moving the entire grid not needed.

As regards house lights, many are also on a winch so they can be lowered
for servicing. Or accessible from within the ceiling.

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On Thu, 5 Jan 2017 17:27:18 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:


This church tower one still scares me.

https://ladderassociation.org.uk/wp-...Submission.jpg


Why?
It looks stable to me.
They could have replaced the beam out of the window with some rope to
scare you some more but it would still work.

It doesn't look too different from what Fred Dibnah would have
sometimes done in some situations , and to some that he worked liked
that made him an a folk hero . Anyone else doing similar becomes a
reckless idiot.

G.Harman


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On 31/12/2016 23:37, Caecilius wrote:


Average Life: 45,000 Hours


When run at a temperature of 25 degrees centigrade


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On 05/01/2017 17:27, dennis@home wrote:
On 04/01/2017 21:08, Adrian Caspersz wrote:




This church tower one still scares me.

https://ladderassociation.org.uk/wp-...Submission.jpg


Why?
It looks stable to me.
They could have replaced the beam out of the window with some rope to
scare you some more but it would still work.



US navy power point presentation...
http://www.wellnessproposals.com/saf...der-lunacy.ppt

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