I did a bit of an empirical measurement on
Saturday which is quite interesting...

Brick bungalow, no underfloor insulation generally, 2" cavity brick
walls with blown fibre.

I have added 100mm celotex over the dormer and roof (well, mostly - 75mm
for the last 200-400mm above eaves and there are about 5m2 that I have
not yet put the final 25mm on, so 75mm currently.


Sunday - metered electric heating only and the building was warm and
being held steady state. Used 49.42kWh over 11 hours, so 4490kW average
heating power.


By calculation I reckon:
1000W is going out of the DG ali windows (assumed U=3.7W/m2K)
150W single glazed front door (Assumed U=4.8W/m2K)
160W side door
361W new uPVC windows (stated as U=1.7W/m2K)

which leaves (ignoring air changes) 2779W going out the floor, roof and
walls.

This works out at an effective U value of 0.47W/m2K

Which is not as good as Part L requires now (around 0.13W/m2K) but
considering the floor is uninsulated and the blown fibre is old and only
50mm, does not seem bad.


The ali windows will get a slight improvement when the get reglazed with
K glass and maybe argon fill. The frames have a thermal break, and the
current glass is running with water inside.

On 05/12/16 14:28, Tim Watts wrote:
I did a bit of an empirical measurement on
Saturday which is quite interesting...

Brick bungalow, no underfloor insulation generally, 2" cavity brick
walls with blown fibre.

I have added 100mm celotex over the dormer and roof (well, mostly - 75mm
for the last 200-400mm above eaves and there are about 5m2 that I have
not yet put the final 25mm on, so 75mm currently.


Sunday - metered electric heating only and the building was warm and
being held steady state. Used 49.42kWh over 11 hours, so 4490kW average
heating power.


Oh - and assuming 21C inside and average 0C outside (bsed on temperature
readinsg that went from -5C to about +5C).

Its all gibberish to me. My floors are uninsulated, what a night mare doing
that would be, my walls are single wall no cavvity so not a lot to do there.
Loft insulated but how do you do the bit where the hatch and ladder are?
double glazing is ld with narrow spacing and no break in the ally frames so
ice can occur on inside of frames. Only one window uunit blown with tiny
crack in outside pane at one corner.
Still it seems pretty good as both back and front doors are upvc wide
spaced, more problems from beading letting draghts in due to bend in frame.
Brian

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"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
I did a bit of an empirical measurement on
Saturday which is quite interesting...

Brick bungalow, no underfloor insulation generally, 2" cavity brick walls
with blown fibre.

I have added 100mm celotex over the dormer and roof (well, mostly - 75mm
for the last 200-400mm above eaves and there are about 5m2 that I have not
yet put the final 25mm on, so 75mm currently.


Sunday - metered electric heating only and the building was warm and being
held steady state. Used 49.42kWh over 11 hours, so 4490kW average heating
power.


By calculation I reckon:
1000W is going out of the DG ali windows (assumed U=3.7W/m2K)
150W single glazed front door (Assumed U=4.8W/m2K)
160W side door
361W new uPVC windows (stated as U=1.7W/m2K)

which leaves (ignoring air changes) 2779W going out the floor, roof and
walls.

This works out at an effective U value of 0.47W/m2K

Which is not as good as Part L requires now (around 0.13W/m2K) but
considering the floor is uninsulated and the blown fibre is old and only
50mm, does not seem bad.


The ali windows will get a slight improvement when the get reglazed with K
glass and maybe argon fill. The frames have a thermal break, and the
current glass is running with water inside.

On 05/12/2016 15:13, Brian Gaff wrote:
Its all gibberish to me. My floors are uninsulated, what a night mare doing
that would be, my walls are single wall no cavvity so not a lot to do there.
Loft insulated but how do you do the bit where the hatch and ladder are?

I made a new hatch cover from a piece of the stuff they do
conservatories with (often free as an off cut), PVC on both sides and
foam in between.

Just hacked an inch out of the end and glued some wood in for the hinges
to fix too.

dennis@home wrote:
On 05/12/2016 15:13, Brian Gaff wrote:
Its all gibberish to me. My floors are uninsulated, what a night mare
doing
that would be, my walls are single wall no cavvity so not a lot to do
there.
Loft insulated but how do you do the bit where the hatch and ladder are?

I made a new hatch cover from a piece of the stuff they do
conservatories with (often free as an off cut), PVC on both sides and
foam in between.

Just hacked an inch out of the end and glued some wood in for the hinges
to fix too.



Or stick 50mm of polytstyrene onto the wooden door.

On 05/12/16 15:13, Brian Gaff wrote:
Its all gibberish to me. My floors are uninsulated, what a night mare doing
that would be,

exactly (floors) - and I suspect they don't have such a big effect as
fixing the walls and roof anyway.

my walls are single wall no cavvity so not a lot to do there.

Well, you could line with celotex and plasterboard - but that depends
how desperate you are Or even line the outside and clad.

Loft insulated but how do you do the bit where the hatch and ladder are?

Bit of celotex (etc) on the loft hatch is the usual way - 2" is
sufficient. Modern plastic hatches can be got with insulation built in.

double glazing is ld with narrow spacing and no break in the ally frames so
ice can occur on inside of frames. Only one window uunit blown with tiny
crack in outside pane at one corner.
Still it seems pretty good as both back and front doors are upvc wide
spaced, more problems from beading letting draghts in due to bend in frame.
Brian

Aye, the drafts are a killer. Is it possible to add some sealing strip
(foam or rubber)?

On 05/12/2016 14:44, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/12/16 14:28, Tim Watts wrote:
I did a bit of an empirical measurement on
Saturday which is quite interesting...



Oh - and assuming 21C inside and average 0C outside (bsed on temperature
readinsg that went from -5C to about +5C).


21C! I presume that she controls the stat:-)?



--
Adam

On 05/12/16 19:47, ARW wrote:
On 05/12/2016 14:44, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/12/16 14:28, Tim Watts wrote:
I did a bit of an empirical measurement on
Saturday which is quite interesting...



Oh - and assuming 21C inside and average 0C outside (bsed on temperature
readinsg that went from -5C to about +5C).


21C! I presume that she controls the stat:-)?

Actually me - I like it warm when cold outside

On Monday, 5 December 2016 14:40:51 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
I did a bit of an empirical measurement on
Saturday which is quite interesting...

Brick bungalow, no underfloor insulation generally, 2" cavity brick
walls with blown fibre.

I have added 100mm celotex over the dormer and roof (well, mostly - 75mm
for the last 200-400mm above eaves and there are about 5m2 that I have
not yet put the final 25mm on, so 75mm currently.


Sunday - metered electric heating only and the building was warm and
being held steady state. Used 49.42kWh over 11 hours, so 4490kW average
heating power.


By calculation I reckon:
1000W is going out of the DG ali windows (assumed U=3.7W/m2K)
150W single glazed front door (Assumed U=4.8W/m2K)
160W side door
361W new uPVC windows (stated as U=1.7W/m2K)

which leaves (ignoring air changes) 2779W going out the floor, roof and
walls.

This works out at an effective U value of 0.47W/m2K

Which is not as good as Part L requires now (around 0.13W/m2K) but
considering the floor is uninsulated and the blown fibre is old and only
50mm, does not seem bad.


The ali windows will get a slight improvement when the get reglazed with
K glass and maybe argon fill. The frames have a thermal break, and the
current glass is running with water inside.

Probably cheaper and better to just junk the windows and get uPVC replacements.

On 05/12/2016 14:28, Tim Watts wrote:
The ali windows will get a slight improvement when the get reglazed with
K glass and maybe argon fill. The frames have a thermal break, and the
current glass is running with water inside.

When we got new double glazing with the special glass it reflected all
the heat of the sun. Much cooler in some weather.

Andy

On 06/12/16 21:49, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 05/12/2016 14:28, Tim Watts wrote:
The ali windows will get a slight improvement when the get reglazed with
K glass and maybe argon fill. The frames have a thermal break, and the
current glass is running with water inside.

When we got new double glazing with the special glass it reflected all
the heat of the sun. Much cooler in some weather.

Andy

I think I've got that on my conservatory roof - is it tinted blue by any
chance?