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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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open fire and condensation
Hi,
I'm looking for some advice, hope this is the right place ;O) I have recently bought an old pre 1930's bungalow with nine inch solid brick walls and an appalling condensation /mildew problem due mainly to the fact that what with double glazing which has no vents or night latch, draughtproofing and oil as the only heat source, the place is vacuum packed! I understand from reading this group on deja that leaving my heating on 24-7 is the best way to prevent the condensation but thats just not affordable in the long run. At the moment I am using 500 litres every six weeks or so and thats running it at 65 degrees in the evening only. I have the place as well insulated as possible and even priced inner insulation for the outer walls using a polyurethane sheeting faced with plasterboard and that worked out at over £500 per wall! Multiply that by ten walls and its just insane! Anyway...getting to my point. I want to build on an external chimney and install an open solid fuel (coal) fire with an all night burner which will keep it ticking over all night. What I am wondering is, will this help with the condensation problem by giving the moist air an escape route, or will it make it worse? Hope someone out there can help. Thanks Susan :O) |
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open fire and condensation
susanskelton wrote in message ... I have recently bought an old pre 1930's bungalow with nine inch solid brick walls and an appalling condensation /mildew problem due mainly to the fact that How do you know what the cause is? You may well be right, or it may be a contributory factor, but don't pre-judge the issue. You are unlikely to suffer condensation if the heating operates morning and evening, and the damp may be coming through the walls from outside. Is it worse on one side of the house or the same all over? what with double glazing which has no vents or night latch, draughtproofing and oil as the only heat source, the place is vacuum packed! If the place were that tightly sealed, your heating bills shouldn't be high. I think for starters you need to find out where you're losing all this heat. Is the loft/roof insulated? |
#3
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open fire and condensation
"susanskelton" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm looking for some advice, hope this is the right place ;O) I have recently bought an old pre 1930's bungalow with nine inch solid brick walls and an appalling condensation /mildew problem due mainly to the fact that what with double glazing which has no vents or snipped Hope someone out there can help. Thanks Susan :O) You must allow air in, for it to get back out, or you will really be living in a vacuum packed house. Keep cold air in takes way down low to the floor, and hot exhaust gasses way up high above the roof. Doing that causes the air to circulate around the house and draw any excessive moisture and dust out the forced flue of the chimney. Any sealed room with a heater is a potential death trap because of carbon by-products, and not only from the heaters but from people breathing, so please allow an air circulation path if you're thinking of using any heaters, especially solid or fossil fuels. --- http://www.basecuritysystems.no-ip.com Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.560 / Virus Database: 352 - Release Date: 08/01/04 |
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