I have an arbour with a roof very similar to this one:

http://www.rowgar.co.uk/tenbury

which, after 10 years, is now showing its age.

The curved roof supports are made from laminated beams providing
a groove into which is threaded a prefabricated set of timber
feather edge boards (nailed to a bit of flexible ply, a little
like a tambour). Each of the 14 boards per side is about 80 mm
wide, 800 mm long and 10 mm at its thickest.

The original supplier simply imports kits, and can offer no
spares.

I guess I have two basic options - either try to replace with
similar timber inserted in the slots, though I haven't seen
feather edge board that narrow, or fix something on top of the
side members. Even then, because of the curve, and the need to
overlap each board, I'm not at all sure what I could use.

I reckon I need either pressure treated timber, or something
(cedar?) which is naturally more weather resistant, though I
guess that might be expensive.

Any thoughts?:

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Chris J Dixon wrote:
I have an arbour with a roof very similar to this one:

http://www.rowgar.co.uk/tenbury

which, after 10 years, is now showing its age.

The curved roof supports are made from laminated beams providing
a groove into which is threaded a prefabricated set of timber
feather edge boards (nailed to a bit of flexible ply, a little
like a tambour). Each of the 14 boards per side is about 80 mm
wide, 800 mm long and 10 mm at its thickest.

The original supplier simply imports kits, and can offer no
spares.

I guess I have two basic options - either try to replace with
similar timber inserted in the slots, though I haven't seen
feather edge board that narrow, or fix something on top of the
side members. Even then, because of the curve, and the need to
overlap each board, I'm not at all sure what I could use.

I reckon I need either pressure treated timber, or something
(cedar?) which is naturally more weather resistant, though I
guess that might be expensive.

Any thoughts?:

Chris

Western red cedar would be ideal also Iroko a sort of poor mans
mahogany. Both are fairly readily available from a proper hardwood
dealer not the DIY sheds but not in feather edge.
Feather edge board is normally at least 125mm and supplied pressure
treated by fencing places. Cut ends need treating ideally.

In message , Chris J Dixon
writes
I have an arbour with a roof very similar to this one:

http://www.rowgar.co.uk/tenbury

which, after 10 years, is now showing its age.

The curved roof supports are made from laminated beams providing
a groove into which is threaded a prefabricated set of timber
feather edge boards (nailed to a bit of flexible ply, a little
like a tambour). Each of the 14 boards per side is about 80 mm
wide, 800 mm long and 10 mm at its thickest.

The original supplier simply imports kits, and can offer no
spares.

I guess I have two basic options - either try to replace with
similar timber inserted in the slots, though I haven't seen
feather edge board that narrow, or fix something on top of the
side members. Even then, because of the curve, and the need to
overlap each board, I'm not at all sure what I could use.

I reckon I need either pressure treated timber, or something
(cedar?) which is naturally more weather resistant, though I
guess that might be expensive.

Yes. Don't use timber:-)

I have spent the last 2 days nailing feather edge to an old timber barn!

Is feather edge shape critical or could you use flat board of similar
thickness?

If so, what about re-cycled plastic? I know you can get sheets of 10mm
in white. Brown ought to be easy as we have some made into trellis.

--
Tim Lamb

Bob Minchin wrote:
Chris J Dixon wrote:
I have an arbour with a roof very similar to this one:

http://www.rowgar.co.uk/tenbury

which, after 10 years, is now showing its age.

The curved roof supports are made from laminated beams providing
a groove into which is threaded a prefabricated set of timber
feather edge boards (nailed to a bit of flexible ply, a little
like a tambour). Each of the 14 boards per side is about 80 mm
wide, 800 mm long and 10 mm at its thickest.

The original supplier simply imports kits, and can offer no
spares.

I guess I have two basic options - either try to replace with
similar timber inserted in the slots, though I haven't seen
feather edge board that narrow, or fix something on top of the
side members. Even then, because of the curve, and the need to
overlap each board, I'm not at all sure what I could use.

I reckon I need either pressure treated timber, or something
(cedar?) which is naturally more weather resistant, though I
guess that might be expensive.

Any thoughts?:

Chris

Western red cedar would be ideal also Iroko a sort of poor mans
mahogany. Both are fairly readily available from a proper hardwood
dealer not the DIY sheds but not in feather edge.
Feather edge board is normally at least 125mm and supplied pressure
treated by fencing places. Cut ends need treating ideally.
Sorry brain fart: Iroko is poor mans teak!

Tim Lamb wrote:

Yes. Don't use timber:-)

I have spent the last 2 days nailing feather edge to an old timber barn!

Is feather edge shape critical or could you use flat board of similar
thickness?

Because of the curvature and desire to overlap, flat material
would be thicker overall and would probably look rather odd.

If so, what about re-cycled plastic? I know you can get sheets of 10mm
in white. Brown ought to be easy as we have some made into trellis.

I'll see what is available, but I'm not sure how that would look
in context as part of what is mainly a decorative garden feature.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.