I have a couple in the conservatory where the plaster is bowed in,
leaving a 3mm gap on top of the socket in the centre section.

OK - it's not really unsafe, but it is in breach of the regs which is
IP4x (and I *think* tha applies to accessories as well as tops of
consumer units).

Either way, it's a bit tatty, but also a little bit tricky to fill.

Anyoen go any time saving tips for how to run a line of something behind
the plate without making a mess of a painted wall?

I was wondering if masking tape to the back of the plate along the top,
a bead of caulk then screw the plate back and wipe off the excess might
be one way? Caulk being stickier than filler plus coming out of a tube.

Loosen plate when set and remove masking tape...

In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
I have a couple in the conservatory where the plaster is bowed in,
leaving a 3mm gap on top of the socket in the centre section.

OK - it's not really unsafe, but it is in breach of the regs which is
IP4x (and I *think* tha applies to accessories as well as tops of
consumer units).

The socket should be fitted to a proper back box. In which case it's not
possible to get at any live bits.

--
*A clear conscience is the sign of a fuzzy memory.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 03/10/2016 13:50, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
I have a couple in the conservatory where the plaster is bowed in,
leaving a 3mm gap on top of the socket in the centre section.

[snip]

The socket should be fitted to a proper back box. In which case it's not
possible to get at any live bits.


If the plaster surface is bowed back then it's quite likely that it's
been skimmed slightly proud of the back box.

Even when a socket mates up snugly against the back box the shape of the
backs of most sockets would allow water to work its way round between it
and the edges of the box if there's a gap between the socket and plaster.

--
Mike Clarke

In article ,
Mike Clarke wrote:
On 03/10/2016 13:50, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
I have a couple in the conservatory where the plaster is bowed in,
leaving a 3mm gap on top of the socket in the centre section.

[snip]

The socket should be fitted to a proper back box. In which case it's not
possible to get at any live bits.


If the plaster surface is bowed back then it's quite likely that it's
been skimmed slightly proud of the back box.



Even when a socket mates up snugly against the back box the shape of the
backs of most sockets would allow water to work its way round between it
and the edges of the box if there's a gap between the socket and plaster.

Didn't realise we were talking about waterproof fittings. If so, even more
important they are installed correctly.

--
*It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 03 Oct 2016 16:13:16 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Mike Clarke wrote:
On 03/10/2016 13:50, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
I have a couple in the conservatory where the plaster is bowed in,
leaving a 3mm gap on top of the socket in the centre section.

[snip]

The socket should be fitted to a proper back box. In which case it's not
possible to get at any live bits.


If the plaster surface is bowed back then it's quite likely that it's
been skimmed slightly proud of the back box.



Even when a socket mates up snugly against the back box the shape of the
backs of most sockets would allow water to work its way round between it
and the edges of the box if there's a gap between the socket and plaster.

Didn't realise we were talking about waterproof fittings. If so, even more
important they are installed correctly.

OP said IP4X, son not rated for water, only objects such as poking a bit of
metal in there.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 03/10/2016 13:24, Tim Watts wrote:
I have a couple in the conservatory where the plaster is bowed in,
leaving a 3mm gap on top of the socket in the centre section.

OK - it's not really unsafe, but it is in breach of the regs which is
IP4x (and I *think* tha applies to accessories as well as tops of
consumer units).

Either way, it's a bit tatty, but also a little bit tricky to fill.

Anyoen go any time saving tips for how to run a line of something behind
the plate without making a mess of a painted wall?

I was wondering if masking tape to the back of the plate along the top,
a bead of caulk then screw the plate back and wipe off the excess might
be one way? Caulk being stickier than filler plus coming out of a tube.

Loosen plate when set and remove masking tape...

How about, loosen plate, rake out a little plaster at the *sides*, then
re-fix. Edges will sit deeper, closing some of the gap at top. Quick
fillet of caulk for the rest.


--
Cheers,

John.

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