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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

http://www.discount-electrical.com/l...finishes-p1303

Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really
have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit
more standard. Help and suggestions please.

PS who invents these things?

--
AnthonyL
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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -


presume as it's LED from the factory, they treat it as not-serviceable

they do say 10 year guarantee though ... don't suppose your house's
previous owner left you a bunch of receipts?



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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On 22/09/16 11:37, AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

http://www.discount-electrical.com/l...finishes-p1303

Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really
have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit
more standard. Help and suggestions please.

PS who invents these things?


And thus it begins - what I said would happen with these types of fitting.

I fit GU10 LEDs in fire rated housings and they've been fine, so have
some bigger R63 spotlights. I have a load of SES and BC LED bulbs around
the place.

And sometimes they blow. So I go to the cupboard, unwrap a spare LEDHut
jobbie and pop it in.

Whoever thought sealed units were a good idea needs taking out and shooting.

And yes, I know all the arguments about heat. But this is not the
correct answer.
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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 12:16:40 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -


presume as it's LED from the factory, they treat it as not-serviceable

they do say 10 year guarantee though ... don't suppose your house's
previous owner left you a bunch of receipts?


Not even FENSA certificates!

--
AnthonyL
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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 12:29:10 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 22/09/16 11:37, AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

http://www.discount-electrical.com/l...finishes-p1303

Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really
have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit
more standard. Help and suggestions please.

PS who invents these things?


And thus it begins - what I said would happen with these types of fitting.

I fit GU10 LEDs in fire rated housings and they've been fine, so have
some bigger R63 spotlights. I have a load of SES and BC LED bulbs around
the place.

And sometimes they blow. So I go to the cupboard, unwrap a spare LEDHut
jobbie and pop it in.

Whoever thought sealed units were a good idea needs taking out and shooting.

And yes, I know all the arguments about heat. But this is not the
correct answer.


So the easy answer is to buy GU10 compatible fittings and put the new
bulbs I've got in there?

I don't even know how to remove the old fitting - wire cutters?

--
AnthonyL


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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

AnthonyL wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

they do say 10 year guarantee though ... don't suppose your house's
previous owner left you a bunch of receipts?


Not even FENSA certificates!


Maybe your solicitor should have asked the vendor awkward questions
about paperwork for lightbulbs!

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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On 22/09/2016 12:36, AnthonyL wrote:
On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 12:16:40 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -


presume as it's LED from the factory, they treat it as not-serviceable

they do say 10 year guarantee though ... don't suppose your house's
previous owner left you a bunch of receipts?


Not even FENSA certificates!

Why do you need a Fensa certificate ?. Those are for people who have
no brains and need to be spoonfed every step of their lives. Any
guarantee probably isn't worth the paper it is written on.

You didn't buy the property because it has nice windows. You bought
it because it was the right price in the right condition and in the
right area, or wifey deemed the kitchen and bathroom to be
sufficiently 'dream' so that was the final decision.

Replacement windows need to be C rated (minimum), the glass needs to be
safety glass if it is a critical area like the bottom half of a glazed
door or immediately adjacent and is not more than a certain distance
from the ground, and all habitable upstairs windows need a means
of escape. It's not rocket science but as long as 50% of the
population are too thick to have the vote, nanny state rules will
always be in the background. A Fensa certificate won't tell you if
the Euro cylinder locks are bump-proof.

How many times have I seen properties for sale that have been given
a rear conservatory, sometimes with polycarbonate roof glazing and
where the owners have removed the patio door and relaid the floor to
make it one room. Totally contrary to Part L (2006) but most
people (women) will just view, go weak at the knees, say
goo-gahh, I must have it. As I said, if you plot the average IQ
since 1945 you will get a steadily declining graph. At least the
influx of East Europeans and Asians will reverse this (in time).


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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 12:47:50 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

AnthonyL wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

they do say 10 year guarantee though ... don't suppose your house's
previous owner left you a bunch of receipts?


Not even FENSA certificates!


Maybe your solicitor should have asked the vendor awkward questions
about paperwork for lightbulbs!


I'd have knocked 000's off the price had I realised he'd fitted these
and lost the guarantee receipts. In fact I might even not have moved
in. I've got taken the whole thing apart a far as I can and have the
offending part in my hand (well next to it 'cause I can't hold it and
type at the same time). So why can't I just buy one of those? How
ungreen is that!

--
AnthonyL
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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 13:04:19 +0100, Andrew
wrote:

On 22/09/2016 12:36, AnthonyL wrote:
On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 12:16:40 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

presume as it's LED from the factory, they treat it as not-serviceable

they do say 10 year guarantee though ... don't suppose your house's
previous owner left you a bunch of receipts?


Not even FENSA certificates!

Why do you need a Fensa certificate ?. Those are for people who have
no brains and need to be spoonfed every step of their lives. Any
guarantee probably isn't worth the paper it is written on.

You didn't buy the property because it has nice windows. You bought
it because it was the right price in the right condition and in the
right area, or wifey deemed the kitchen and bathroom to be
sufficiently 'dream' so that was the final decision.

Replacement windows need to be C rated (minimum), the glass needs to be
safety glass if it is a critical area like the bottom half of a glazed
door or immediately adjacent and is not more than a certain distance
from the ground, and all habitable upstairs windows need a means
of escape. It's not rocket science but as long as 50% of the
population are too thick to have the vote, nanny state rules will
always be in the background. A Fensa certificate won't tell you if
the Euro cylinder locks are bump-proof.

How many times have I seen properties for sale that have been given
a rear conservatory, sometimes with polycarbonate roof glazing and
where the owners have removed the patio door and relaid the floor to
make it one room. Totally contrary to Part L (2006) but most
people (women) will just view, go weak at the knees, say
goo-gahh, I must have it. As I said, if you plot the average IQ
since 1945 you will get a steadily declining graph. At least the
influx of East Europeans and Asians will reverse this (in time).



Well I argued with SWIMBO saying that we shouldn't risk moving in
because all hell and high water would be leashed but she wouldn't
listen so here we are. And it's me who has to get things fixed


--
AnthonyL
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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On 22/09/16 12:39, AnthonyL wrote:
On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 12:29:10 +0100, Tim Watts

So the easy answer is to buy GU10 compatible fittings and put the new
bulbs I've got in there?


I would, if the cutout is of a compatible size.

Now - if you don't need the fire rating and the void above is clear of
insulation, an open backed fitting will cool the lamp the best.
Personally, I prefer fire rated fittings with vent holes in the top plus
an intumescent seal on said holes. This allows some air flow, but if the
lamp combusts[1] then any fire is probably going to be contained. It's
not real purpose of a fire rated downlight fitting, but it makes me feel
better.

[1] Electronic things on mains do sometimes go up in smoke. This is why
nearly all of my 12/24V SELV PSUs are mounted on plasterboard and not
direct to wood.




I don't even know how to remove the old fitting - wire cutters?


There *should* be a junction box nearby, or terminals in the unit. One
or the other.


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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On 22/09/16 11:37, AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

http://www.discount-electrical.com/l...finishes-p1303

Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really
have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit
more standard. Help and suggestions please.

PS who invents these things?

Tell me about it. Yesterday I replaced a whole luminaire because the old
one contained a weird fluorescent tube and ballast that I couldn't find
anywhere. New on has got LED bulb in now,.

And then the 'lantern' that someone had made out of bits of plastic and
stained pine, had to be broken apart to get the new bulb in...

Lighting is getting to te stage of 'fit and forget' and replace the
while damned thing in 15 years time.


--
New Socialism consists essentially in being seen to have your heart in
the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
someone else's pocket.

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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

lid (AnthonyL) wrote in
:

One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

http://www.discount-electrical.com/l...oor-lighting-c
39/downlights-c46/jc94199-fgled3-fire-rated-led-downlight-cool-white-3-
finishes-p1303

Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really
have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit
more standard. Help and suggestions please.

PS who invents these things?


I have similar ones - with a 7 year warranty (saved). At the time they were
considerably brighter (7watts) than replacement GU10s. I am happy with them
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I have similar ones - with a 7 year warranty (saved). At the time they
were considerably brighter (7watts) than replacement GU10s. I am happy
with them


......also greater reliability due to not using miniturised components = and
better cooling.
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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 14:23:00 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 22/09/16 12:39, AnthonyL wrote:
On Thu, 22 Sep 2016 12:29:10 +0100, Tim Watts

So the easy answer is to buy GU10 compatible fittings and put the new
bulbs I've got in there?


I would, if the cutout is of a compatible size.

Now - if you don't need the fire rating and the void above is clear of
insulation, an open backed fitting will cool the lamp the best.
Personally, I prefer fire rated fittings with vent holes in the top plus
an intumescent seal on said holes. This allows some air flow, but if the
lamp combusts[1] then any fire is probably going to be contained. It's
not real purpose of a fire rated downlight fitting, but it makes me feel
better.

[1] Electronic things on mains do sometimes go up in smoke. This is why
nearly all of my 12/24V SELV PSUs are mounted on plasterboard and not
direct to wood.




I don't even know how to remove the old fitting - wire cutters?


There *should* be a junction box nearby, or terminals in the unit. One
or the other.


Right - I've got it out. Now any reason I shouldn't just buy a couple
of these

http://cpc.farnell.com/eterna/frwh/d...u10/dp/LA05723

The lighting is one of two for the hall passageway of a bungalow. The
attic floor above has been boarded. The hole is 3"/75mm


--
AnthonyL
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On 22/09/16 15:30, DerbyBorn wrote:


I have similar ones - with a 7 year warranty (saved). At the time they
were considerably brighter (7watts) than replacement GU10s. I am happy
with them


......also greater reliability due to not using miniturised components = and
better cooling.


Which is a fat lot of good when changing them turns into an electrical
job...


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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?



"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 22/09/16 11:37, AnthonyL wrote:
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

http://www.discount-electrical.com/l...finishes-p1303

Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really
have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit
more standard. Help and suggestions please.

PS who invents these things?

Tell me about it. Yesterday I replaced a whole luminaire because the old
one contained a weird fluorescent tube and ballast that I couldn't find
anywhere. New on has got LED bulb in now,.

And then the 'lantern' that someone had made out of bits of plastic and
stained pine, had to be broken apart to get the new bulb in...

Lighting is getting to te stage of 'fit and forget'


Its been that way for a long time now with most long tube fluoros.

and replace the while damned thing in 15 years time.


Still plenty with replaceable bulbs. All you have to do is check
that its got one when you install a new one.

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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?

They invent non standard things in order to tie you into their own ecology,
so to speak.
Often this backfires as either the chinese swamp the market with copies, or
since you have made sure you and only you can make them the supply dries up.
I have no idea about his standard you mention, so it must be pretty rare,
at least where you live.

What was wrong with good old fashioned bayonet or les fittings for stuff.
Brian

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"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in
Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.

Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3
type of light -

http://www.discount-electrical.com/l...finishes-p1303

Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really
have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit
more standard. Help and suggestions please.

PS who invents these things?

--
AnthonyL



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Default Changing a light bulb - how hard can it be?




I quite enjoy watching bewildered people looking at bulbs (lamps) in the
big stores. After a while the ladies often resort to phoning home. My
daughter has loads at home that don't fit anything she owns!
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