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Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way
fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Can anyone recommend a suitable unit. One of the problems that will inevitably occur is that the house wiring cables will be to short. So ideally I would like a unit that has all the terminals close to the cable entry point would be a bonus. -- Michael Chare --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On Saturday, 13 August 2016 22:21:07 UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Can anyone recommend a suitable unit. One of the problems that will inevitably occur is that the house wiring cables will be to short. So ideally I would like a unit that has all the terminals close to the cable entry point would be a bonus. Type of earthing? Metal or plastic? Cheap or deluxe? 2 RCDs or RCBOs? NT |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
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Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
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Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 00:05, Andy Wade wrote:
On 13/08/2016 23:08, wrote: Metal or plastic? No option there any more. Amendment 3, must be metal. I think it says non flammable, but most manufacturers are using cheap pressed steel. Changing the consumer unit is, along with some bathroom stuff still notifiable so don't DIY if you are selling soon. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 13/08/2016 22:20, Michael Chare wrote:
There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Can anyone recommend a suitable unit. Pick any of the well known brands and you should be fine. MK is nice but can be pricey - although sometime you will find package deals for a CU and a selection of MCBs that are not bad. Hager have a good range of stuff, also good quality. Contactum is cheap and "ok". I tend to avoid the wholesalers own brands since its not always obvious what you are getting or what the spares availability will be like. One of the problems that will inevitably occur is that the house wiring cables will be to short. So ideally I would like a unit that has all the terminals close to the cable entry point would be a bonus. You are likely to find that all 8 way boxes have a very similar layout and that is likely to be different from your current CU. So arm yourself with some suitable lengths of wire, and decent quality crimps (+tool) so that you can extend the ones you need to. (you can also het a bit of wiggle room by choosing the ordering of the MCBs to suite the wire lengths you have). For more on brands, see: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Consumer_unit for changing one: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/..._consumer_unit -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
"Michael Chare" wrote in message
... ideally I would like a unit that has all the terminals close to the cable entry point would be a bonus. You are not the only one:-) Although you can often gain extra cable by moving the box up or down.on may installs. Screwfix had an offer on a BG populated RCBO CU last week - I believe it had 8 ways and 6 RCBOs. They are not bad CUs. I cannot check that ATM as the Screwfix site is down. All RCBOs on a small unit may help with the existing cable lengths on the L and N but do be prepared to have to extend the earths. Whatever CU you buy (it will need to be metal if you are meeting the 3rd amendment regs) then you can often forget about using the existing knockouts and just jigsaw whatever entry points you need and then use grommet strip. Depending on how the tailes enter the CU then a gland pack such as https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKTKP40R32.html is essential. -- Adam |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn
escribió: This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Beware that doing this can show up faults, such as shared neutrals, that don't affect fused CUs. They can result in an RCD that trips and won't reset. -- (\_/) (='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10 (")_(") |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 05:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/08/2016 22:20, Michael Chare wrote: There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Can anyone recommend a suitable unit. Pick any of the well known brands and you should be fine. MK is nice but can be pricey - although sometime you will find package deals for a CU and a selection of MCBs that are not bad. Hager have a good range of stuff, also good quality. Contactum is cheap and "ok". I tend to avoid the wholesalers own brands since its not always obvious what you are getting or what the spares availability will be like. One of the problems that will inevitably occur is that the house wiring cables will be to short. So ideally I would like a unit that has all the terminals close to the cable entry point would be a bonus. You are likely to find that all 8 way boxes have a very similar layout and that is likely to be different from your current CU. So arm yourself with some suitable lengths of wire, and decent quality crimps (+tool) so that you can extend the ones you need to. (you can also het a bit of wiggle room by choosing the ordering of the MCBs to suite the wire lengths you have). Thanks, I just bought a Screwfix crimp tool to mend my hob! Would these be suitable crimps: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-X-Asso...AOSw3KFWgil T Any need for additional insulation such as tape and/or heat shrink? Are RCBOs a good idea? -- Michael Chare --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
But of course nobody bothers anyhow, from what I've heard.
If he has to extend the cables he is also going to need some certified connection system as well. I know its done as someone I visit in a block ogf flats has the wires going into some form of connection block in a box and new cables emerge the other side. Brian -- ----- - This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please! "dennis@home" wrote in message web.com... On 14/08/2016 00:05, Andy Wade wrote: On 13/08/2016 23:08, wrote: Metal or plastic? No option there any more. Amendment 3, must be metal. I think it says non flammable, but most manufacturers are using cheap pressed steel. Changing the consumer unit is, along with some bathroom stuff still notifiable so don't DIY if you are selling soon. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On Sunday, 14 August 2016 09:18:05 UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
Would these be suitable crimps: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-X-Asso...AOSw3KFWgil T I wouldn't buy crimps from China. The last lot I bought from B&Q [1] were so soft I could deform them with finger pressure. Owain [1] I know, but I only wanted 10 and it was a bit an emergency. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
In article ,
Michael Chare wrote: There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. There is generally only one incoming neutral to a CU. All the others are outgoing. And any fault is far more likely to be elsewhere in the house - unless work has recently been carried out on the CU. -- *Why is a boxing ring square? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
In article ,
John Rumm wrote: You are likely to find that all 8 way boxes have a very similar layout and that is likely to be different from your current CU. So arm yourself with some suitable lengths of wire, and decent quality crimps (+tool) so that you can extend the ones you need to. (you can also het a bit of wiggle room by choosing the ordering of the MCBs to suite the wire lengths you have). Is there a need to use a crimp to extend a cable within a CU? After all it will remain accessible, in terms of the regs. And I've seen more badly made crimps than I'd like. -- *If tennis elbow is painful, imagine suffering with tennis balls * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 09:17, Michael Chare wrote:
On 14/08/2016 05:22, John Rumm wrote: You are likely to find that all 8 way boxes have a very similar layout and that is likely to be different from your current CU. So arm yourself with some suitable lengths of wire, and decent quality crimps (+tool) so that you can extend the ones you need to. (you can also het a bit of wiggle room by choosing the ordering of the MCBs to suite the wire lengths you have). Thanks, I just bought a Screwfix crimp tool to mend my hob! Would these be suitable crimps: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-X-Asso...AOSw3KFWgil T They look like the right kind, however for this application I would play safe and order something branded from CPC Any need for additional insulation such as tape and/or heat shrink? Not when extending individual wires inside the CU - only if you are crimping cables outside. Are RCBOs a good idea? Yes. All RCBO setups are a top end solution - but it will cost more. It gives the best levels of RCD discrimination available. (i.e. the effect of a fault will be limited to the single circuit on which it occurs) You may find a "high integrity" CU is a good compromise - that's one where it has at least a couple of banks of MCBs with their own RCD, but them also a couple of additional non RCD ways that you can fit RCBOs in. So you can stick circuits with high leakage risk on their own RCBO, but still lump together low risk circuits on shared RCDs. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 11:45, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , John Rumm wrote: You are likely to find that all 8 way boxes have a very similar layout and that is likely to be different from your current CU. So arm yourself with some suitable lengths of wire, and decent quality crimps (+tool) so that you can extend the ones you need to. (you can also het a bit of wiggle room by choosing the ordering of the MCBs to suite the wire lengths you have). Is there a need to use a crimp to extend a cable within a CU? You can use chockie block if you prefer (or Wagos etc). The only real advantage of crimps is they are slim and easy to thread through a rats nest of wires if needs be. After all it will remain accessible, in terms of the regs. And I've seen more badly made crimps than I'd like. Yup, then again, I have met rather too many chock block terminals made of cheese also! I think I would probable go for Crimp, Wago, then Chock block in that order of preference. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
In article ,
John Rumm wrote: Is there a need to use a crimp to extend a cable within a CU? You can use chockie block if you prefer (or Wagos etc). The only real advantage of crimps is they are slim and easy to thread through a rats nest of wires if needs be. After all it will remain accessible, in terms of the regs. And I've seen more badly made crimps than I'd like. Yup, then again, I have met rather too many chock block terminals made of cheese also! But I'd guess less common than cheap crimps and an even worse crimp tool. Before any finger trouble. I'd be inclined to use a decent chocolate block connector large enough for the wires to overlap so both screws bite on both wires. Tighten till it groans using the correct size screwdriver, and insulate with heatshrink. That's what I did when fitting my replacement CU for the few wires which wouldn't reach - if they couldn't easily be replaced. And I've not had any problems. I think I would probable go for Crimp, Wago, then Chock block in that order of preference. I personally hate those pre-insulated Red Blue and Yellow terminals - especially bought from an unknown source. They may be just about acceptable where the wire size is a tight fit, but when at the other end of the stated sizes, give an extremely poor crimp. To see what I mean do a trial one then carefully cut off the insulation. It looks terrible. Simply squashed like you could do with pliers. Not a proper crimp at all - to me. Of course like all domestic wiring it may never get near its stated maximum load. But I'd not trust it for a circuit which does. -- *Money isn't everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 09:00, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
[...] Beware that doing this can show up faults, such as shared neutrals, that don't affect fused CUs. They can result in an RCD that trips and won't reset. You're supposed to test and assess each circuit before connecting it to the new CU. This is a useful guide: http://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org...1-Issue-3-.pdf -- Andy |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 12:45:23 +0100, John Rumm wrote:
snip Are RCBOs a good idea? Yes. All RCBO setups are a top end solution - but it will cost more. It gives the best levels of RCD discrimination available. (i.e. the effect of a fault will be limited to the single circuit on which it occurs) snip +1 for the RCBO; the extra up front cost may well save you loads of aggro down stream. Earth/neutral trips were the bane of my life, before I discovered RCBOs! [Major rewire may have helped, of course.] Cheers Dave R -- Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
I'd be inclined to use a decent chocolate block connector large enough for the wires to overlap so both screws bite on both wires. For the record, that's the technique I always adopt with chock-block, but I've never seen it done by a professional, or inside a manufactured appliance. -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On Sunday, 14 August 2016 14:34:31 UTC+1, Graham. wrote:
I'd be inclined to use a decent chocolate block connector large enough for the wires to overlap so both screws bite on both wires. For the record, that's the technique I always adopt with chock-block, but I've never seen it done by a professional, or inside a manufactured appliance. I always do that when practical. Much better reliability & safety. Plus in situations where it's permissible you can also ignore the connector's current rating if you've got 2 copper cables pressed well against each other - most of the current bypasses the chocblock. That does not include house wiring of course. For the record one can overtighten these things. Go too far and the cable ends become flat thin weak things that fracture readily. NT |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 11:42:31 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , Michael Chare wrote: There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. There is generally only one incoming neutral to a CU. All the others are outgoing. And any fault is far more likely to be elsewhere in the house - unless work has recently been carried out on the CU. I suspect he might not be using the term "incoming cables" in the strct sence that you would use it. After all, we would say "cable entry point" for all cables rather than "cable exit" Apart from which, AC swings both ways ;-) -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
Graham. pretended :
I'd be inclined to use a decent chocolate block connector large enough for the wires to overlap so both screws bite on both wires. For the record, that's the technique I always adopt with chock-block, but I've never seen it done by a professional, or inside a manufactured appliance. +1.. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 13:24, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I personally hate those pre-insulated Red Blue and Yellow terminals - especially bought from an unknown source. They may be just about acceptable where the wire size is a tight fit, but when at the other end of the stated sizes, give an extremely poor crimp. To see what I mean do a trial one then carefully cut off the insulation. It looks terrible. Simply squashed like you could do with pliers. Not a proper crimp at all - to me. Of course like all domestic wiring it may never get near its stated maximum load. But I'd not trust it for a circuit which does. I'm not sure I follow you: while such a crimp doesn't usually make contact with the whole circumference of the cable , when made with a ratchet crimper do they really give a smaller area of contact than in a typical (eg choc strip) screwed connector? -- Robin |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
... In article , That's what I did when fitting my replacement CU for the few wires which wouldn't reach - if they couldn't easily be replaced. And I've not had any problems. And there is nothing wrong with doing that. -- Adam |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
In article ,
Michael Chare writes: There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Can anyone recommend a suitable unit. One of the problems that will inevitably occur is that the house wiring cables will be to short. So ideally I would like a unit that has all the terminals close to the cable entry point would be a bonus. I recently used one of the new Wylex all metal CU's, and was happy with it (using all RCBO's - don't look at the split load version). Amendment 3 version has metal hinged cover and metal fuseway banks. This was a different solution many years ago to replacing my CU where the wires were not long enough (just predated brown and blue). http://www.cucumber.demon.co.uk/cu1.jpg http://www.cucumber.demon.co.uk/cu2.jpg BTW, that's an industrial CU which gives you bags of space inside, although I don't think that MEM/Eaton range is manufactured anymore. If you use those DIN rail screw terminals, I would suggest getting one size bigger than the total crossectional area when more than one conductor is going into a terminal, as they don't have any spare space over the stated size. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
In article ,
Robin wrote: I'm not sure I follow you: while such a crimp doesn't usually make contact with the whole circumference of the cable , when made with a ratchet crimper do they really give a smaller area of contact than in a typical (eg choc strip) screwed connector? My whole point is the metal part doesn't get crimped round the entire diameter of the cable because the insulation has some give to it. And more so when the wire is at the small end of the range the crimp says it can take. With a decent screw connection, the screw is nearly the width of the hole, so properly tightened will give a pretty near all round contact. Obviously if you choose the correct size connector strip. A decent crimp *is* the best method. But those crimps often ain't decent. -- *Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 09:00, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn escribió: This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Beware that doing this can show up faults, such as shared neutrals, that don't affect fused CUs. They can result in an RCD that trips and won't reset. The original wiring in this bungalow we recently acquired was done quite neatly, but unfortunately the property has been modified. I wanted to remove a 13 amp socket to make it easier to put on wall paper so I thought I could just pull out the appropriate fuse. I plugged a lamp into the socket and removed each fuse in turn. The lamp never went out! -- Michael Chare --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 14:55, Graham. wrote:
On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 11:42:31 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Michael Chare wrote: There is a fault in the neutral of one of the cables going to my six way fuse box. To find this fault I am likely to have to remove the fuse box so that I can inspect the incoming cables and maybe replace one of them. There is generally only one incoming neutral to a CU. All the others are outgoing. And any fault is far more likely to be elsewhere in the house - unless work has recently been carried out on the CU. I suspect he might not be using the term "incoming cables" in the strct sence that you would use it. After all, we would say "cable entry point" for all cables rather than "cable exit" Apart from which, AC swings both ways ;-) Quite right! The cable in question is in a bungalow it runs from rafter to rafter in the attic and then down behind plaster and tiles to the fuse box. The cable is clipped to the top surface of each rafter and has no support until it reaches the next one. Either the cable has been broken by being stretched between the rafters or there is some fault behind the fuse box. I will cut the cable just before it descends and see if I get a neutral. -- Michael Chare --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 20:00:23 +0100, Michael Chare
wrote: On 14/08/2016 09:00, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn escribió: This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Beware that doing this can show up faults, such as shared neutrals, that don't affect fused CUs. They can result in an RCD that trips and won't reset. The original wiring in this bungalow we recently acquired was done quite neatly, but unfortunately the property has been modified. I wanted to remove a 13 amp socket to make it easier to put on wall paper so I thought I could just pull out the appropriate fuse. I plugged a lamp into the socket and removed each fuse in turn. The lamp never went out! Is your bungalow detached, or could a common owner of your and an adjacent property have been a little "unconventional". Personally I would be very concerned if I couldn't identify the source of my Volts. Mind You, you could turn off everything in the house and watch the meter as you plug a heater into the socket, it may help in planning a heating strategy this winter. AB --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 20:00, Michael Chare wrote:
On 14/08/2016 09:00, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn escribió: This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Beware that doing this can show up faults, such as shared neutrals, that don't affect fused CUs. They can result in an RCD that trips and won't reset. The original wiring in this bungalow we recently acquired was done quite neatly, but unfortunately the property has been modified. I wanted to remove a 13 amp socket to make it easier to put on wall paper so I thought I could just pull out the appropriate fuse. I plugged a lamp into the socket and removed each fuse in turn. The lamp never went out! Each fuse in turn until you had no fuses at all, or where your replacing the previous one as you moved to the next? Its not uncommon to find someone has managed to bridge two circuits together so that you need to pull two fuses to get the circuit to go dead. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
In article , John Rumm
wrote: On 14/08/2016 20:00, Michael Chare wrote: On 14/08/2016 09:00, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn escribió: This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Beware that doing this can show up faults, such as shared neutrals, that don't affect fused CUs. They can result in an RCD that trips and won't reset. The original wiring in this bungalow we recently acquired was done quite neatly, but unfortunately the property has been modified. I wanted to remove a 13 amp socket to make it easier to put on wall paper so I thought I could just pull out the appropriate fuse. I plugged a lamp into the socket and removed each fuse in turn. The lamp never went out! Each fuse in turn until you had no fuses at all, or where your replacing the previous one as you moved to the next? Its not uncommon to find someone has managed to bridge two circuits together so that you need to pull two fuses to get the circuit to go dead. or even a ring with separate fuses at each end. -- from KT24 in Surrey, England |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
"charles" wrote in message
... In article , John Rumm wrote: On 14/08/2016 20:00, Michael Chare wrote: On 14/08/2016 09:00, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn escribió: This makes me wonder whether I should replace the fuse box with a modern consumer unit, probably 8 way. Beware that doing this can show up faults, such as shared neutrals, that don't affect fused CUs. They can result in an RCD that trips and won't reset. The original wiring in this bungalow we recently acquired was done quite neatly, but unfortunately the property has been modified. I wanted to remove a 13 amp socket to make it easier to put on wall paper so I thought I could just pull out the appropriate fuse. I plugged a lamp into the socket and removed each fuse in turn. The lamp never went out! Each fuse in turn until you had no fuses at all, or where your replacing the previous one as you moved to the next? Its not uncommon to find someone has managed to bridge two circuits together so that you need to pull two fuses to get the circuit to go dead. or even a ring with separate fuses at each end. Best not mention that this has been done on separate RCDs:-) -- Adam |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 12:45, John Rumm wrote:
On 14/08/2016 09:17, Michael Chare wrote: On 14/08/2016 05:22, John Rumm wrote: You are likely to find that all 8 way boxes have a very similar layout and that is likely to be different from your current CU. So arm yourself with some suitable lengths of wire, and decent quality crimps (+tool) so that you can extend the ones you need to. (you can also het a bit of wiggle room by choosing the ordering of the MCBs to suite the wire lengths you have). Thanks, I just bought a Screwfix crimp tool to mend my hob! Would these be suitable crimps: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-X-Asso...AOSw3KFWgil T They look like the right kind, however for this application I would play safe and order something branded from CPC Any need for additional insulation such as tape and/or heat shrink? Not when extending individual wires inside the CU - only if you are crimping cables outside. Are RCBOs a good idea? Yes. All RCBO setups are a top end solution - but it will cost more. It gives the best levels of RCD discrimination available. (i.e. the effect of a fault will be limited to the single circuit on which it occurs) You may find a "high integrity" CU is a good compromise - that's one where it has at least a couple of banks of MCBs with their own RCD, but them also a couple of additional non RCD ways that you can fit RCBOs in. So you can stick circuits with high leakage risk on their own RCBO, but still lump together low risk circuits on shared RCDs. Thanks for all your help. -- Michael Chare --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
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Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 22:14, John Rumm wrote:
Its not uncommon to find someone has managed to bridge two circuits together so that you need to pull two fuses to get the circuit to go dead. Easy to do with a ring where you terminate one end on each fuse, not so easy with a radial. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 14/08/2016 22:53, ARW wrote:
or even a ring with separate fuses at each end. Best not mention that this has been done on separate RCDs:-) Anyone can make a mistake, its knowing how to find the error that makes the difference. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
On 15/08/2016 08:30, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , Andy Wade spambucke escribió: You're supposed to test and assess each circuit before connecting it to the new CU. *Supposed*. This is a group comprised mostly of amateurs with a sprinkling of professional contributors. I wonder what proportion of us (the group users) would test each circuit when replacing a CU? Testing would require the use of equipment that I think most of us wouldn't have, beyond a multimeter. I would hope that anyone changing a CU would be able to do at least some basic tests - even if just with a multimeter. Its going to be the easiest time to check things like ring continuity, and making sure there are not obvious earth to neutral shorts since you have access to each circuits wires in isolation[1]. I know I didn't test, but connected circuits to the new CU one at a time, powering on in between. Even that achieved some level of diagnosis - had you connected a circuit with an earth neutral short or particularly poor insulation resistance, the RCD trip would have told you which circuit was a likely candidate. Certainly better then wiring everything up in one hit and then not knowing what was causing it to trip. [1] The first time I did a CU swap, I bought the basic test gear s/h from ebay for £150 (that was for standalone Insulation resistance meter and low ohms meter, RCD tester, and Earth Loop meter). I knew that I could always flog it again for much the same money once I was done with it if I had wanted. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
En el artículo , John
Rumm escribió: I would hope that anyone changing a CU would be able to do at least some basic tests - even if just with a multimeter. Its going to be the easiest time to check things like ring continuity, and making sure there are not obvious earth to neutral shorts since you have access to each circuits wires in isolation[1]. Agreed, and yes, I do do that, having changed a few CUs. Even that achieved some level of diagnosis - had you connected a circuit with an earth neutral short or particularly poor insulation resistance, the RCD trip would have told you which circuit was a likely candidate. Certainly better then wiring everything up in one hit and then not knowing what was causing it to trip. Aye. -- (\_/) (='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10 (")_(") |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote: This is a group comprised mostly of amateurs with a sprinkling of professional contributors. I wonder what proportion of us (the group users) would test each circuit when replacing a CU? Testing would require the use of equipment that I think most of us wouldn't have, beyond a multimeter. I'd certainly test each circuit after installation before connecting to the CU. Even a simple DVM will show up a major fault like a short. Or open circuit. And a leaky heater element, etc. If you have a suspect fault and are installing just a new CU, I'd do the same. In my experience, the majority of faults will show on an ordinary DVM if you know how to use it. Although obviously the correct test equipment is better - but rather too pricey for most DIYers. -- *Many people quit looking for work when they find a job * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Replacing fuse box with consumer unit
John Rumm wrote:
I would hope that anyone changing a CU would be able to do at least some basic tests - even if just with a multimeter. I bought an old Robin insulation & continuity tester, an ancient hand cranked analogue one, years out of calibration even then, but still works fine ... |
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