I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

On Wednesday, 3 August 2016 11:59:24 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend.

solder?

Owain

wrote:
On Wednesday, 3 August 2016 11:59:24 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend.

solder?

Owain


I don't think I could get it hot enough. Do you think it could be done
with a blowtorch? I have tried, and failed, to solder other large
things in the past.

On 8/3/2016 11:59 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

Forget all of those, they are unlikely to cope with the pressure. (Well,
silicone might but you would need to drain down and get the surfaces dry).

The one thing which should work is the two part epoxy putty made for
plumbing repairs, I have used it successfully in a similar situation.
(cold feed rather than heating coil). It sticks on a wet surface and
(provided the leak is small enough) maintains the seal until it sets.
Doesn't look pretty, but very easy and permanent.

If the leak is too fast, drain down first.

Same arguments apply for an immersion heater as for a heating coil.

Soldering might be possible if you know what you are doing, but tank and
coil would need to be drained, you probably don't have good access, and
the solder probably won't penetrate the leak path even with acid flux,
but a patch should work, if done properly.

Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 3 August 2016 11:59:24 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend.

solder?

Owain

How do you clean the internal, doubtless well crusted mating faces
though?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

newshound wrote:
On 8/3/2016 11:59 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

Forget all of those, they are unlikely to cope with the pressure. (Well,
silicone might but you would need to drain down and get the surfaces dry).

The one thing which should work is the two part epoxy putty made for
plumbing repairs, I have used it successfully in a similar situation.
(cold feed rather than heating coil). It sticks on a wet surface and
(provided the leak is small enough) maintains the seal until it sets.
Doesn't look pretty, but very easy and permanent.

If the leak is too fast, drain down first.

Same arguments apply for an immersion heater as for a heating coil.

Soldering might be possible if you know what you are doing, but tank and
coil would need to be drained, you probably don't have good access, and
the solder probably won't penetrate the leak path even with acid flux,
but a patch should work, if done properly.

I have some Milliput somewhere - have you ever seen that? Sounds similar.

In article ,
Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I don't think I could get it hot enough. Do you think it could be done
with a blowtorch? I have tried, and failed, to solder other large
things in the past.

A decent blowlamp should solder it no bother. The copper isn't very thick.

The problem is likely to be cleaning things properly before soldering.
And if simply a crack, would need a plate soldered over it.

--
*Plagiarism saves time *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 8/3/2016 1:18 PM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
newshound wrote:
On 8/3/2016 11:59 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

Forget all of those, they are unlikely to cope with the pressure. (Well,
silicone might but you would need to drain down and get the surfaces
dry).

The one thing which should work is the two part epoxy putty made for
plumbing repairs, I have used it successfully in a similar situation.
(cold feed rather than heating coil). It sticks on a wet surface and
(provided the leak is small enough) maintains the seal until it sets.
Doesn't look pretty, but very easy and permanent.

If the leak is too fast, drain down first.

Same arguments apply for an immersion heater as for a heating coil.

Soldering might be possible if you know what you are doing, but tank and
coil would need to be drained, you probably don't have good access, and
the solder probably won't penetrate the leak path even with acid flux,
but a patch should work, if done properly.

I have some Milliput somewhere - have you ever seen that? Sounds similar.

Not made for that job, I don't know if it would work on wet surfaces.
Just search eBay for "plumber epoxy" and you will find numerous
different products. Screwfix doesn't seem to stock any, but any decent
hardware store or any plumbers merchant should have something.

newshound wrote:
On 8/3/2016 1:18 PM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
newshound wrote:
On 8/3/2016 11:59 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

Forget all of those, they are unlikely to cope with the pressure. (Well,
silicone might but you would need to drain down and get the surfaces
dry).

The one thing which should work is the two part epoxy putty made for
plumbing repairs, I have used it successfully in a similar situation.
(cold feed rather than heating coil). It sticks on a wet surface and
(provided the leak is small enough) maintains the seal until it sets.
Doesn't look pretty, but very easy and permanent.

If the leak is too fast, drain down first.

Same arguments apply for an immersion heater as for a heating coil.

Soldering might be possible if you know what you are doing, but tank and
coil would need to be drained, you probably don't have good access, and
the solder probably won't penetrate the leak path even with acid flux,
but a patch should work, if done properly.

I have some Milliput somewhere - have you ever seen that? Sounds
similar.

Not made for that job, I don't know if it would work on wet surfaces.
Just search eBay for "plumber epoxy" and you will find numerous
different products. Screwfix doesn't seem to stock any, but any decent
hardware store or any plumbers merchant should have something.

Okay, I'll see what I can find. Thanks.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I don't think I could get it hot enough. Do you think it could be done
with a blowtorch? I have tried, and failed, to solder other large
things in the past.

A decent blowlamp should solder it no bother. The copper isn't very thick.

The problem is likely to be cleaning things properly before soldering.
And if simply a crack, would need a plate soldered over it.


I'm pretty sure it's just leaking out of the tightened flange. Also,
the tank is coated in some sort of foam (which makes it hard to be 100%
sure about the origin of the leak), which I would probably end up
setting light to :-)

However, I do have blowlamp, solder, and flux, so it'll be on standby.

Dan S. wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

You can't get the coil out without taking the cylinder apart.

Where the two ends of the coil emerge from the cylinder there will be a flange on the inside and a fibre washer and nut on the outside. I had a similar problem with my cylinder, caused by one of the fibre washers perishing. I managed to fix it without draining down by slackening the nut and winding some boss-white impregnated hemp behind it, and then re-tightening it.

If you don't mind draining down, remove the external pipe, and then remove the nut and replace the fibre washer - preferably with a neoprene one. You may need to cut away some of the insulation to get at it.
--
Cheers,
Roger

Roger Mills wrote:


Dan S. wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's
possible to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together
with it in place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to
clean the mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it
was possible.
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

You can't get the coil out without taking the cylinder apart.

Where the two ends of the coil emerge from the cylinder there will be a
flange on the inside and a fibre washer and nut on the outside. I had a
similar problem with my cylinder, caused by one of the fibre washers
perishing. I managed to fix it without draining down by slackening the
nut and winding some boss-white impregnated hemp behind it, and then
re-tightening it.

If you don't mind draining down, remove the external pipe, and then
remove the nut and replace the fibre washer - preferably with a neoprene
one. You may need to cut away some of the insulation to get at it.

Thanks. No problem draining down - I'll use a garden hose out of the
front door.

On 03/08/2016 22:08, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:


Dan S. wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's
possible to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together
with it in place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to
clean the mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it
was possible.
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

You can't get the coil out without taking the cylinder apart.

Where the two ends of the coil emerge from the cylinder there will be a
flange on the inside and a fibre washer and nut on the outside. I had a
similar problem with my cylinder, caused by one of the fibre washers
perishing. I managed to fix it without draining down by slackening the
nut and winding some boss-white impregnated hemp behind it, and then
re-tightening it.

If you don't mind draining down, remove the external pipe, and then
remove the nut and replace the fibre washer - preferably with a neoprene
one. You may need to cut away some of the insulation to get at it.

Thanks. No problem draining down - I'll use a garden hose out of the
front door.

Is there a drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder? If not, it's not
too easy because simply opening a hot tap doesn't drain the cylinder.
Also, you'll need to drain the primary circuit before disconnecting the
external pipe(s) connected to the coil.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Roger Mills wrote:
On 03/08/2016 22:08, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:


Thanks. No problem draining down - I'll use a garden hose out of the
front door.

Is there a drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder? If not, it's not
too easy because simply opening a hot tap doesn't drain the cylinder.

I think it's reasonable to assume that if he's planning on using a hose
pipe, he isn't intending to try draining it via a hot tap.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

Roger Mills wrote:
On 03/08/2016 22:08, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:


Dan S. wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's
possible to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together
with it in place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to
clean the mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it
was possible.
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

You can't get the coil out without taking the cylinder apart.

Where the two ends of the coil emerge from the cylinder there will be a
flange on the inside and a fibre washer and nut on the outside. I had a
similar problem with my cylinder, caused by one of the fibre washers
perishing. I managed to fix it without draining down by slackening the
nut and winding some boss-white impregnated hemp behind it, and then
re-tightening it.

If you don't mind draining down, remove the external pipe, and then
remove the nut and replace the fibre washer - preferably with a neoprene
one. You may need to cut away some of the insulation to get at it.

Thanks. No problem draining down - I'll use a garden hose out of the
front door.

Is there a drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder? If not, it's not
too easy because simply opening a hot tap doesn't drain the cylinder.
Also, you'll need to drain the primary circuit before disconnecting the
external pipe(s) connected to the coil.

Yes, there's a drain cock in the lowest part of the HW exit pipe that
will do nicely. The HW/CH system is already drained, since I've just
replaced a couple of radiators downstairs. The cylinder job is
something I'm doing "while I'm at it". It's a tiny leak that I've just
left a piece of kitchen roll under for now, and that has been enough,
but now seems like a good time to fix it.

Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:
On 03/08/2016 22:08, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:


Dan S. wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's
possible to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together
with it in place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to
clean the mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it
was possible.
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

You can't get the coil out without taking the cylinder apart.

Where the two ends of the coil emerge from the cylinder there will be a
flange on the inside and a fibre washer and nut on the outside. I had a
similar problem with my cylinder, caused by one of the fibre washers
perishing. I managed to fix it without draining down by slackening the
nut and winding some boss-white impregnated hemp behind it, and then
re-tightening it.

If you don't mind draining down, remove the external pipe, and then
remove the nut and replace the fibre washer - preferably with a
neoprene
one. You may need to cut away some of the insulation to get at it.

Thanks. No problem draining down - I'll use a garden hose out of the
front door.

Is there a drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder? If not, it's not
too easy because simply opening a hot tap doesn't drain the cylinder.
Also, you'll need to drain the primary circuit before disconnecting the
external pipe(s) connected to the coil.

Yes, there's a drain cock in the lowest part of the HW exit pipe that

Oops, I mean the CW inlet pipe. The HW comes out at the top, of course.

will do nicely. The HW/CH system is already drained, since I've just
replaced a couple of radiators downstairs. The cylinder job is
something I'm doing "while I'm at it". It's a tiny leak that I've just
left a piece of kitchen roll under for now, and that has been enough,
but now seems like a good time to fix it.

On Wednesday, 3 August 2016 11:59:24 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

If it's brazed or soldered joint, then cleaned up of oxidation and soldered.
If it's a mechanical joint it will have to be dismantled, cleaned and fresh jointing material and paste fitted.

Plumbers Mait is good stuff.

In article , Dan S. MacAbre
scribeth thus
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....

--
Tony Sayer

harry wrote:
On Wednesday, 3 August 2016 11:59:24 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?

If it's brazed or soldered joint, then cleaned up of oxidation and soldered.
If it's a mechanical joint it will have to be dismantled, cleaned and fresh jointing material and paste fitted.

Plumbers Mait is good stuff.


Yes, it's a mechanical joint. There's a very small dribble coming out
of it, and there's a small damp patch on the board underneath it. The
annoying thing is, it's going to be hard to clean up the mating surface
on the inside through the small gap that will be available when it's undone.

tony sayer wrote:
In article , Dan S. MacAbre
scribeth thus
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....



It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
tony sayer wrote:
In article , Dan S. MacAbre
scribeth thus
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....



It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

I'd be inclined to replace it. IME it's probsbly getting close to
the end of it's life and it's easier to do it while the whole system is
out of commission and in summer. A new cylinder may have a better heat
exchanger than your old one.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....



It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

I'd just replace that. Ours here was full of sludge and deposits we do
live in a hard water area but it seems to me thats coming the end of its
useful life!...
--
Tony Sayer

It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

I'd be inclined to replace it. IME it's probsbly getting close to
the end of it's life and it's easier to do it while the whole system is
out of commission and in summer. A new cylinder may have a better heat
exchanger than your old one.

Which may well be a bit "furred up" at that age...
--
Tony Sayer

Capitol wrote:
Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
tony sayer wrote:
In article , Dan S. MacAbre
scribeth thus
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....



It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

I'd be inclined to replace it. IME it's probsbly getting close to
the end of it's life and it's easier to do it while the whole system is
out of commission and in summer. A new cylinder may have a better heat
exchanger than your old one.

Okay, well I'll see what it looks like when I drain it and get it out.
It's a bit cramped in there, so I don't want to work on it in an awkward
position.

tony sayer wrote:
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....



It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

I'd just replace that. Ours here was full of sludge and deposits we do
live in a hard water area but it seems to me thats coming the end of its
useful life!...


We have lovely soft water, but I expect there will be the same sort of
black grit we find in the header tank. I'll see how it looks when I get
it out.

On Friday, 5 August 2016 11:57:07 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
tony sayer wrote:
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....



It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

I'd just replace that. Ours here was full of sludge and deposits we do
live in a hard water area but it seems to me thats coming the end of its
useful life!...


We have lovely soft water, but I expect there will be the same sort of
black grit we find in the header tank. I'll see how it looks when I get
it out.

Soft water attacks copper. (As you have found out)
There's likely to be other incipient holes waiting to appear.
Hard water furs it up.
(You can't win).

Thirty years old...it's likely to be dead.
Get a new one.

On Friday, 5 August 2016 08:24:54 UTC+1, tony sayer wrote:
In article , Dan S. MacAbre
scribeth thus
I've spotted a very small leak from the top flange on our copper
cylinder heating coil. I'm planning to drain the cylinder and push
something in the gap this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's possible
to get the coil out, or if the cylinders are welded together with it in
place. If I could get it out, it would make it easier to clean the
mating surfaces, but looking at it, I'd be suprised if it was possible.

Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....

--
Tony Sayer

If it's a soft water area, then probably true.

"Dan S. MacAbre" Wrote in message:
tony sayer wrote:
Also, does anyone know what would work best? My old and well-used tub
of Boss Green (which fixes most things for me), silicone sealer,
Plumber's Mait, or something else?


If its any age I'd suspect that there are other places where it might
star to fail or leak. Might be best to bite the bullet and replace it
than to patch it....



It's about 30 yrs old. It's covered in an insulating layer of foam
which is good, I suppose, but which makes it hard to inspect.

I'd just replace that. Ours here was full of sludge and deposits we do
live in a hard water area but it seems to me thats coming the end of its
useful life!...


We have lovely soft water, but I expect there will be the same sort of
black grit we find in the header tank. I'll see how it looks when I get
it out.


Mmm soft acidic water....that gets heated up to ?70 degrees
daily.....

--
Jim K


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On 05/08/2016 09:55, Capitol wrote:
I'd be inclined to replace it. IME it's probsbly getting close to
the end of it's life and it's easier to do it while the whole system is
out of commission and in summer.

We had a man in to replace our boiler. I asked him to fit a new cylinder
while he was at it - the old one didn't have any decent insulation, and
certainly didn't have a decent coil.

When he tried to undo the immersion the thread tore out of the top
instead of the immersion coming out.

When two of them tried to carry it out the bottom cracked all the way
around, and nearly came off.

When I saw it outside it was a third full of green scale.

30 years old or so... ring a bell?

Andy

In article , Vir
Campestris scribeth thus
On 05/08/2016 09:55, Capitol wrote:
I'd be inclined to replace it. IME it's probsbly getting close to
the end of it's life and it's easier to do it while the whole system is
out of commission and in summer.

We had a man in to replace our boiler. I asked him to fit a new cylinder
while he was at it - the old one didn't have any decent insulation, and
certainly didn't have a decent coil.

When he tried to undo the immersion the thread tore out of the top
instead of the immersion coming out.

When two of them tried to carry it out the bottom cracked all the way
around, and nearly came off.

When I saw it outside it was a third full of green scale.

30 years old or so... ring a bell?

Thats just what happened to ours .. at 20 years!...

Andy

--
Tony Sayer