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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Hello all,
well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael |
#2
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:36:53 +0100, Michael Kilpatrick
wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. That would be the question I would want to answer first, 'why'? Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. You can get some silicone based adhesives that can even work on wet surfaces. ;-) This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. Cool. The 13 moth old Zanussi I got of Freecycle was written off because the bearings had failed. I cut the (welded) plastic drum in half, replaced the bearings, joined the drum back together and used it for another 7 years. ;-) I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? If you like doing that sort of thing, can afford it (v buying a new machine) and like the S&G's, why not. ;-) The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. We had that when considering replacing our elderly conventionally vented tumble dryer. Couldn't easily find one with the outlet in the same place or with the same features so just repair it as required. ;-) The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? I was quite sad when the bearings *finally* went on the Zanussi and sort of regretted letting our daughter go and buy us a new one and taking the other one away (girl with a van g). The reason was ... we (the Mrs and I fixed it together) had some history with the machine (recovering it when all the advice was that it was impossible / not cost effective) and I *knew* I could do the same again. However, a pile of important washing and my time *supposed* to be focusing on more important things meant I had to let it go ... ;-( Cheers, T i m |
#3
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 7/29/2016 10:36 AM, Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael Depending on the location of the crack, and whether or not it looks like it is going to propagate, might it be repairable? Presumably an axial crack, so a "bandage" using something like Sylglas / Denso tape might help to keep it closed, and also provide sealing. Perhaps difficult to bandage all the way around, but you could bind the drum with something like string (for strength) and then just tape over the crack area. Bear in mind that the outer drum is (probably) structural, i.e. it supports the bearings and inner drum, as well as seeing the tension from the drive belt. |
#4
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Friday, 29 July 2016 11:07:41 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 7/29/2016 10:36 AM, Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael Depending on the location of the crack, and whether or not it looks like it is going to propagate, might it be repairable? Presumably an axial crack, so a "bandage" using something like Sylglas / Denso tape might help to keep it closed, and also provide sealing. Perhaps difficult to bandage all the way around, but you could bind the drum with something like string (for strength) and then just tape over the crack area. Bear in mind that the outer drum is (probably) structural, i.e. it supports the bearings and inner drum, as well as seeing the tension from the drive belt. Many plastics can be hot welded, I'd probably look at that first. String is no use, it stretches, and starts with a small fraction of the strength of the tub. Your choice innit, we don't know what suits you. NT |
#5
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 29/07/2016 10:55, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:36:53 +0100, Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. That would be the question I would want to answer first, 'why'? Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. You can get some silicone based adhesives that can even work on wet surfaces. ;-) I tried that, as I happened to have some. Unfortunately, because plastic things like this tend to have stresses inside them such that when the crack they distort, the crack opened up further after I had applied this sealant liberally. There's no way of pushing it back into shape. It also appears that there is very little gap between the metal drum and this outer body, and there appears to be a piece of the plastic inside, I think, which caught and made matters worse when I tested it with the sealant. I think I will quickly try and look inside - taking the inner drum out - before I order a new body this afternoon. Michael |
#6
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. I appreciate the joy of keeping old machines going but the older the machine, the less sense it makes to spend large amounts if money on repairs. The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. Dual fill is over-rated. Most powders work better with a cold fill and unless you machine is next to a combi, the "dead space" in your pipework will mean that little HW actually reaches your machine. It's really not a good reason to hang on to an old machine. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. Until recently. ;-) Who knows what lies around the next corner? What do you reckon? Time to treat yourself to a new machine IMO. ;-) Tim -- Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file |
#7
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:49:46 -0000 (UTC)
Tim+ wrote: At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. Maybe a 'not' got away? -- Davey. |
#8
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Davey wrote:
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:49:46 -0000 (UTC) Tim+ wrote: At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. Maybe a 'not' got away? Indeed. Or perhaps substitute "sensible" with "crazy". ;-) Tim -- Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file |
#9
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 29/07/16 11:53, Davey wrote:
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:49:46 -0000 (UTC) Tim+ wrote: At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. Maybe a 'not' got away? Mmm. I dunno. In the end will that hundred pounds buy you another 4 years? given that a washing machine at 300 seems to last about 12 years -- Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns, why should we let them have ideas? Josef Stalin |
#10
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:58:01 -0000 (UTC)
Tim+ wrote: Davey wrote: On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:49:46 -0000 (UTC) Tim+ wrote: At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. Maybe a 'not' got away? Indeed. Or perhaps substitute "sensible" with "crazy". ;-) Tim It's amazing how your mind can be thinking one thing, but your fingers can write something totally different. They don't run on the same clock. -- Davey. |
#11
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Friday, 29 July 2016 10:36:50 UTC+1, Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. T'obvious answer is find another WD62 for scrap value that has a different fault, and pinch the bits. Owain |
#12
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
In article ,
newshound writes: On 7/29/2016 10:36 AM, Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael Depending on the location of the crack, and whether or not it looks like it is going to propagate, might it be repairable? Presumably an axial crack, so a "bandage" using something like Sylglas / Denso tape might help to keep it closed, and also provide sealing. Perhaps difficult to bandage all the way around, but you could bind the drum with something like string (for strength) and then just tape over the crack area. Bear in mind that the outer drum is (probably) structural, i.e. it supports the bearings and inner drum, as well as seeing the tension from the drive belt. Outer drum is structural, and liable to fail catasrophicly at top spin speed if strength is compromised. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#13
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
wrote:
On Friday, 29 July 2016 10:36:50 UTC+1, Michael Kilpatrick wrote: The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. T'obvious answer is find another WD62 for scrap value that has a different fault, and pinch the bits. Meanwhile, the dirty washing is piling up and SWMBO is giving you "that look". Nah, cut your losses and buy the wife an early Christmas present. ;-) Tim -- Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile |
#14
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Friday, 29 July 2016 12:02:58 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/07/16 11:53, Davey wrote: On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:49:46 -0000 (UTC) Tim+ wrote: At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. Maybe a 'not' got away? Mmm. I dunno. In the end will that hundred pounds buy you another 4 years? given that a washing machine at 300 seems to last about 12 years £50 should get you 5-7 years. Your choice. NT |
#15
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:49:46 +0000, Tim+ wrote:
Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...chine-plastic- outer-drum?pageNumber=1&PartTypeId=1558&ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. I appreciate the joy of keeping old machines going but the older the machine, the less sense it makes to spend large amounts if money on repairs. It may be worth checking out a fixed price repair from Hotpoint. Our first one died after 16 years and I deemed it uneconomic to repair. Stupidly, I bought another Hotpoint - nothing like the old one of course. The bearings lasted 13 months and required a complete drum replacement at £130. I got a fixed proce repair from Hotpoint for £98 all in. Bearings went after another year and I bought a Bosch Logiixx. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#16
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael Consider fitting a new door seal whilst you are at it as relatively cheap insurance on another flood. |
#17
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
In article ,
Bob Minchin writes: Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael Consider fitting a new door seal whilst you are at it as relatively cheap insurance on another flood. You should get a new drumseal - once compressed, the agro of trying to get an old one to seal again properly isn't worth it. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#18
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 29/07/2016 10:36, Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? No one has asked the obvious, do you live in a hard water area? That could have easily affected internal parts of the machine in a non-obvious way, which could be sneaking up for a further failure... Also, a much newer machine is likely to be far more energy efficient. Whether this actually equates to better or worse wash performance is up for debate though |
#19
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. Until recently. ;-) Who knows what lies around the next corner? What do you reckon? Time to treat yourself to a new machine IMO. ;-) Tim Absolutely +1. Took the words out of my mouth. (Programmer next - then armature, etc) |
#20
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
newshound wrote:
On 7/29/2016 10:36 AM, Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael Depending on the location of the crack, and whether or not it looks like it is going to propagate, might it be repairable? Presumably an axial crack, so a "bandage" using something like Sylglas / Denso tape might help to keep it closed, and also provide sealing. Perhaps difficult to bandage all the way around, but you could bind the drum with something like string (for strength) and then just tape over the crack area. Bear in mind that the outer drum is (probably) structural, i.e. it supports the bearings and inner drum, as well as seeing the tension from the drive belt. It's a washer dryer with wide temperature variations. Replace the drum to avoid repeated repair failures. |
#21
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Tim+ wrote:
Michael wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? At that price, I'd hesitate. Spending over a hundred pounds repairing a 16 yr old machine just does sound sensible to me. I appreciate the joy of keeping old machines going but the older the machine, the less sense it makes to spend large amounts if money on repairs. The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. Dual fill is over-rated. Most powders work better with a cold fill and unless you machine is next to a combi, the "dead space" in your pipework will mean that little HW actually reaches your machine. It's really not a good reason to hang on to an old machine. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. Until recently. ;-) Who knows what lies around the next corner? What do you reckon? Time to treat yourself to a new machine IMO. ;-) Tim If you buy a new machine, bear in mind that it's life expectancy will only be 5 years and it will not rinse or wash nearly as well as your existing one. Her new machine has to have all clothes double rinsed to meet her standards! Even Which says that the current machines are crap. |
#23
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
"Brian Gaff" wrote in
: Well if its otherwise OK and the outer drum is not too expensive, then OK but do make sure the springs and other devices to stop it hitting the sides are working properly, as normally hitting this outer piece is what causes them to faille in the end. Unbalanced drums on modern machines are seen by the electronics and the spin slowed till they get light enough to not be so unbalanced, but if this is not working it might just crack the new part. Brian It has paid for itself. Time for it to go. |
#24
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Capitol wrote:
Tim+ wrote: Michael wrote: What do you reckon? Time to treat yourself to a new machine IMO. ;-) Tim If you buy a new machine, bear in mind that it's life expectancy will only be 5 years An oft repeated claim. Is there any evidence for this? Never had a machine last less than 10 years personally. I'm sure quality brands will last more than 5 years. and it will not rinse or wash nearly as well as your existing one. Her new machine has to have all clothes double rinsed to meet her standards! No accounting for some folk... Even Which says that the current machines are crap. Pretty much matches their reviews then. Tim -- Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file |
#25
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Friday, 29 July 2016 15:36:16 UTC+1, Lee wrote:
No one has asked the obvious, do you live in a hard water area? That could have easily affected internal parts of the machine in a non-obvious way, which could be sneaking up for a further failure... Someone's been watching Cashgone ads. I mean Calgon. NT |
#26
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Friday, 29 July 2016 18:44:37 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
Capitol wrote: Even Which says that the current machines are crap. Pretty much matches their reviews then. Which's opinions are worthless IME. NT |
#27
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 29/07/2016 10:36, Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael I would suggest that a new machine for three times the price would be a better buy. You don't know when the next part will fail. -- Michael Chare --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#28
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
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#29
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 11:32:00 +0100, Michael Kilpatrick
wrote: On 29/07/2016 10:55, T i m wrote: On Fri, 29 Jul 2016 10:36:53 +0100, Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. That would be the question I would want to answer first, 'why'? Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. You can get some silicone based adhesives that can even work on wet surfaces. ;-) I tried that, as I happened to have some. Unfortunately, because plastic things like this tend to have stresses inside them such that when the crack they distort, the crack opened up further after I had applied this sealant liberally. There's no way of pushing it back into shape. Understood. It also appears that there is very little gap between the metal drum and this outer body, and there appears to be a piece of the plastic inside, I think, which caught and made matters worse when I tested it with the sealant. Ok. I think I will quickly try and look inside - taking the inner drum out - before I order a new body this afternoon. When we cut though what could have been a rubber sealed joint between the two drum halves (welded to save the cost of the seal and 8 screws) and went to re-join them we found that even the saw cut removed sufficient material that the *length* of the steel drum was now too much for the inside of the plastic tub assembly. So we spaced the halves apart with some thick stainless washers, replaced whatever the seal might have been with some neoprene round section strip and backed it up with the aforementioned 'super silicone'. Bolted it all up and it never leaked or moved, even when the bearings finally failed 7-8 years later. Nothing to do with your scenario, just to say that you can often fix these things even when the odds are against you. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Need to consider the risk and effects of a flood caused by a failure. |
#31
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 7/29/2016 10:36 AM, Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - What do you reckon? Michael It can be a never ending issues. I had a cracked spider casting on the back of a Hotpoint drum .... bought new one ... many hours of fun replacing it. The door seal went, then the dampers, then pump, motor brushes, then programmer .... at that point scrapped it. You can start down a never ending path of patches ........ once they are past 15 years point, in my book not worth the effort. |
#32
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Well, you can call me mad, but I'm trying it. It took a *long* time
yesterday to dismantle the machine carefully. I've just put the drum back in the new body, which arrived this morning from Partmaster.co.uk with new bearings etc.... Bleargh..... I've found two mysterious pieces of metal which came in the box with the new outer drum and bearings (plus a seal for the drain bit). These two pieces of metal are nothing I saw when taking the machine apart. I wonder what they are, and whether they are the two bits of mangled metal I found that somehow ended up between the drum and the outer drum, causing the damage. I need to see if I can find a complete assembly diagram online. One of the pieces looks a *bit* like a piece of metal attached to the heater element, but not quite. Strange. Michael |
#33
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
Well, you can call me mad, If you insist. You're mad. ;-) Tim -- Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file |
#34
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 30/07/2016 11:53, Tim+ wrote:
Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Well, you can call me mad, If you insist. You're mad. ;-) Oi! Just because I invite you to.... Hmmm, this piece of metal, the "deflector" came with the drum and I don't know where it goes: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435980 The other piece is a spare element bracket which isn't the same as the one on the old element: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es5...ModelId=435980 So I'm non the wiser if the too bits of mangled metal (scrunched up and unrecognisable) that caused the damage were part of the machine or were introduced via the dispenser tray somehow! Michael |
#35
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On 7/29/2016 4:26 PM, Capitol wrote:
newshound wrote: On 7/29/2016 10:36 AM, Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Hello all, well, here's a dilemma... The plastic drum outer body on our washing machine - a 16-year old Hotpoint WD62 washer-dryer - scracked the other day. Not sure why, but it went bang and started leaking water, and opeeed it up and saw a massive crack on the side. Above the water line but obviously it sploshes out when the mahine is spinning. This is machine has otherwise lasted very well. I've only just changed the motor brushes but the drum bearing has never seemed to need changing. I've just discovered that I could buy the outer drum body: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435982 and take the whole machine to bits to replace it! Good idea or not? The pros: the machine is dual-fill, which is difficult to find these days. The machine has proved sturdy and reasonably reliable. The machine was made in the UK which is difficult to find these days (Ebac have just started making in the UK but they don't make washer dyers and their products are not available until September, anyway) The cons: half a day of messing about, and assuming everything else is OK inside the machine (I see no reason yet to assume otherwise). What do you reckon? Michael Depending on the location of the crack, and whether or not it looks like it is going to propagate, might it be repairable? Presumably an axial crack, so a "bandage" using something like Sylglas / Denso tape might help to keep it closed, and also provide sealing. Perhaps difficult to bandage all the way around, but you could bind the drum with something like string (for strength) and then just tape over the crack area. Bear in mind that the outer drum is (probably) structural, i.e. it supports the bearings and inner drum, as well as seeing the tension from the drive belt. It's a washer dryer with wide temperature variations. Replace the drum to avoid repeated repair failures. Agreed. Missed the dryer part (it's only described as a WM in the header). |
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Sat, 30 Jul 2016 08:24:17 GMT, DerbyBorn
wrote: Need to consider the risk and effects of a flood caused by a failure. Wouldn't that apply to any such appliance in any case? Don't these things flood and burn down homes without us ever touching them? As with any such things I (I can't answer for anyone else) rigorously monitor any such repair work straight after doing it and never leave the thing unattended until it proves itself to be as reliable as any machine ever can be. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
On Saturday, 30 July 2016 11:57:27 UTC+1, Michael Kilpatrick wrote:
On 30/07/2016 11:53, Tim+ wrote: Michael Kilpatrick wrote: Well, you can call me mad, If you insist. You're mad. ;-) Oi! Just because I invite you to.... Hmmm, this piece of metal, the "deflector" came with the drum and I don't know where it goes: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es4...ModelId=435980 The other piece is a spare element bracket which isn't the same as the one on the old element: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es5...ModelId=435980 So I'm non the wiser if the too bits of mangled metal (scrunched up and unrecognisable) that caused the damage were part of the machine or were introduced via the dispenser tray somehow! Michael It might be a heat deflector to stop the element melting the tub. NT |
#38
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
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#39
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
/Is the washing pile growing? |
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Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?
In article ,
Lee writes: On 29/07/2016 19:02, wrote: On Friday, 29 July 2016 15:36:16 UTC+1, Lee wrote: No one has asked the obvious, do you live in a hard water area? That could have easily affected internal parts of the machine in a non-obvious way, which could be sneaking up for a further failure... Someone's been watching Cashgone ads. I mean Calgon. NT I can see why you'd say that, but no I don't mean the obvious like heater elements or simple blockages. Over the years I've noticed that heavy scaling seems to make some types of plastic and some synthetic rubber seals/hoses very brittle. Most people wash at 45C or cooler. No scale drops out at these temperatures. I occasionally do 60C washes in a hard water area, and that doesn't result in any build-up either. Some descalers make some plastics go brittle. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
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