On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


The spline obviously needs to transmit a hell of a lot of torque - for
which it needs to be a good fit.

Do you have access to any welding equipment? Could you cut the splined
end off current drop arm and weld the equivalent bit from the LR drop
arm to it?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 22/06/16 19:54, Roger Mills wrote:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


The spline obviously needs to transmit a hell of a lot of torque - for
which it needs to be a good fit.

Do you have access to any welding equipment? Could you cut the splined
end off current drop arm and weld the equivalent bit from the LR drop
arm to it?

My thought was, have you got the other steering arm and a lathe, so bore
out the existing arm, and turn down the old arm to make splined collar
that is a tighter than interference fit, then red heat on the outer and
slam the inner in with a press or a ****off mallet.



--
€œBut what a weak barrier is truth when it stands in the way of an
hypothesis!€�

Mary Wollstonecraft

On Wed, 22 Jun 2016 19:54:17 +0100, Roger Mills wrote:

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Might get away with a hardened bolt that is only just clear through
the holes. Or even have to be fitted from the freezer after
warming/heating warming the shaft and drop arm but not much as I
expect the splines are hardened and you'd never get the bolt out
again.

Any "slop" either from the bolt in the holes or shaft in hole is just
going to produce more sudden stress on the bolt as it's taken up.

The spline obviously needs to transmit a hell of a lot of torque - for
which it needs to be a good fit.

Do you have access to any welding equipment? Could you cut the splined
end off current drop arm and weld the equivalent bit from the LR drop
arm to it?

Would the weld be strong enough?

I think a "better engineered" form of the orginal solution would be
my choice but I'm not sure what "the steering got "over stressed" and
failed, at the splined shaft bodge." means. Has the failure striped
the splines on the shaft and/or in the drop arm? That would explain
the cross drilling...

Get a replacement shaft and bodge it again as before but better?

--
Cheers
Dave.

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

jim wrote:
A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Try some split sleeve pin circlips?, they are very hard and
being a tight fit should take the loading. Still trying to think of the
name of them---someone?

On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.

"Dave Liquorice" Wrote in message:
On Wed, 22 Jun 2016 19:54:17 +0100, Roger Mills wrote:

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Might get away with a hardened bolt that is only just clear through
the holes. Or even have to be fitted from the freezer after
warming/heating warming the shaft and drop arm but not much as I
expect the splines are hardened and you'd never get the bolt out
again.

Any "slop" either from the bolt in the holes or shaft in hole is just
going to produce more sudden stress on the bolt as it's taken up.

The spline obviously needs to transmit a hell of a lot of torque - for
which it needs to be a good fit.

Do you have access to any welding equipment? Could you cut the splined
end off current drop arm and weld the equivalent bit from the LR drop
arm to it?

Would the weld be strong enough?

I think a "better engineered" form of the orginal solution would be
my choice but I'm not sure what "the steering got "over stressed" and
failed, at the splined shaft bodge." means. Has the failure striped
the splines on the shaft and/or in the drop arm? That would explain
the cross drilling...

I believe the splined parts are in reasonable order, and that the
copper that was managing to transmit the torque has succumbed to
the recent "over enthusiastic" steering forces applied and
sheared /lost it's interference.

The cross drilling was an attempt to fix the problem "properly"
rather than bodge with copper/whatever again...


Get a replacement shaft and bodge it again as before but better?

Old shaft is OK (with added 8mm hole)

Bodge it better how?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 6/22/2016 9:15 PM, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Not surprised that the bolt failed. What you might want to consider is
"gluing" the spline parts together with JB weld (metal filled epoxy).
You would need to warm it up to reduce the viscosity to get it to flow,
and of course it cures faster once it is warm, so there's a bit of
judgement needed. But I have had a few surprisingly effective repairs
with plain epoxy. Advantage of epoxy is that you can always dismantle it
again with a gas axe at a temperature of around 200C, which should be
low enough not to affect the temper of the shaft.

On 22/06/2016 21:15, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Most drop arms I have come across have tapered splines?

I would be surprised if the Landy drop arm is cast iron. Can you file
it? Is it really that hard.

I might consider cutting the Landy drop arm, and extending it using your
MIG welder. Further the cut is from the spline, the less force the weld
will have to take.

Mmm well I do have a mig set but not sure welding cast iron is a
"good thing"?


You're right, but it is very, very unlikely that the arm is cast iron. It is far more likely to be forged steel, which I have AC arc welded successfully, although for this job I think that I'd go for Bronze Welding using gas.

On 22/06/16 20:19, Capitol wrote:
snip

Try some split sleeve pin circlips?, they are very hard and
being a tight fit should take the loading. Still trying to think of the
name of them---someone?

Are you thinking of roll pins, aka spirol pins? Enough elasticity on
diameter to be a tight fit in the holes, and very tough, especially
spirol pins. Might be worth having something to retain it from walking
out, if only a Jubilee clip. Plus the copper sleeve, plus one of the
loctite/permabond adhesives to stop it wobbling and wearing.

--
Kevin

Roger Mills Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


The spline obviously needs to transmit a hell of a lot of torque - for
which it needs to be a good fit.

Do you have access to any welding equipment? Could you cut the splined
end off current drop arm and weld the equivalent bit from the LR drop
arm to it?

Mmm well I do have a mig set but not sure welding cast iron is a
"good thing"?

Also I'd prefer to keep the original parts whole, so that if
another avenue appeared in the future (like refurbishing the
original steering box) it would all fit back.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 22/06/2016 22:21, jim wrote:
Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 21:15, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Most drop arms I have come across have tapered splines?

I would be surprised if the Landy drop arm is cast iron. Can you file
it? Is it really that hard.

I might consider cutting the Landy drop arm, and extending it using your
MIG welder. Further the cut is from the spline, the less force the weld
will have to take.

I like the sound of that Fred.

I'll have to dig it out and see what would need to be done.

Any suggestions for how to approach the joins?

I read you have a hobby MIG?

I would find a donor solid bar of similar size and heavily chamfer the
edges I'm going to weld.

I might allow some separation of a few mm of the pieces to assist in
deep penetrating welds and keep going round until the weld is built up.

Most of the strength of a bar will be on the outside so a modest weld
depth, say 6mm+ or so, should be OK.

Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 21:15, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Most drop arms I have come across have tapered splines?

I would be surprised if the Landy drop arm is cast iron. Can you file
it? Is it really that hard.

I might consider cutting the Landy drop arm, and extending it using your
MIG welder. Further the cut is from the spline, the less force the weld
will have to take.

I like the sound of that Fred.

I'll have to dig it out and see what would need to be done.

Any suggestions for how to approach the joins?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Wrote in message:


Mmm well I do have a mig set but not sure welding cast iron is a
"good thing"?


You're right, but it is very, very unlikely that the arm is cast iron.

Aha, thanks.

It is far more likely to be forged steel, which I have AC arc
welded successfully, although for this job I think that I'd go
for Bronze Welding using gas.


Could I mig it?
It's a hobby mig jobby but I've welded some quite thick stuff (5mm
bar to 5mm bar for a gate) with it that's still good enough years
later - if not always pretty :-)


--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

newshound Wrote in message:
On 6/22/2016 9:15 PM, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Not surprised that the bolt failed. What you might want to consider is
"gluing" the spline parts together with JB weld (metal filled epoxy).

Thought that and ilk wasn't great in shear?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Sounds like the only people who could steer this thing need to also have
body building first.
Is there no other box that has a different gear ratio so more turns of the
wheel are needed to steer it thus reducing the loads?
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


The spline obviously needs to transmit a hell of a lot of torque - for
which it needs to be a good fit.

Do you have access to any welding equipment? Could you cut the splined end
off current drop arm and weld the equivalent bit from the LR drop arm to
it?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 6/22/2016 10:29 PM, jim wrote:
newshound Wrote in message:
On 6/22/2016 9:15 PM, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Not surprised that the bolt failed. What you might want to consider is
"gluing" the spline parts together with JB weld (metal filled epoxy).

Thought that and ilk wasn't great in shear?

But it won't be in shear, it will be in compression (assuming you still
have some engagement bewteen the splines). If you don't have any
engagement, forget about it.

Kevin wrote:
On 22/06/16 20:19, Capitol wrote:
snip

Try some split sleeve pin circlips?, they are very hard and
being a tight fit should take the loading. Still trying to think of the
name of them---someone?

Are you thinking of roll pins, aka spirol pins? Enough elasticity on
diameter to be a tight fit in the holes, and very tough, especially
spirol pins. Might be worth having something to retain it from
walking out, if only a Jubilee clip. Plus the copper sleeve, plus one
of the loctite/permabond adhesives to stop it wobbling and wearing.

Yes, that's it. Memory failing I'm afraid, even though I've a
box of them in various sizes.

newshound Wrote in message:
On 6/22/2016 10:29 PM, jim wrote:
newshound Wrote in message:
On 6/22/2016 9:15 PM, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Not surprised that the bolt failed. What you might want to consider is
"gluing" the spline parts together with JB weld (metal filled epoxy).

Thought that and ilk wasn't great in shear?

But it won't be in shear, it will be in compression (assuming you still
have some engagement bewteen the splines). If you don't have any
engagement, forget about it.


As per op the splined components are non-matching.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 23/06/16 08:03, Brian Gaff wrote:
Sounds like the only people who could steer this thing need to also have
body building first.
Is there no other box that has a different gear ratio so more turns of the
wheel are needed to steer it thus reducing the loads?
Brian

That won't reduce the loads on the steering arm Brian, only on the driver.




--
If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
...I'd spend it on drink.

Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

On 23/06/16 08:41, newshound wrote:
On 6/22/2016 10:29 PM, jim wrote:
newshound Wrote in message:
On 6/22/2016 9:15 PM, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Not surprised that the bolt failed. What you might want to consider is
"gluing" the spline parts together with JB weld (metal filled epoxy).

Thought that and ilk wasn't great in shear?

But it won't be in shear, it will be in compression (assuming you still
have some engagement bewteen the splines). If you don't have any
engagement, forget about it.

It will be in shear and the polyester (not epoxy) liquid metals are
pretty good in shear.



--
If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
...I'd spend it on drink.

Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:59:51 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

snip

As per op the splined components are non-matching.

I'm not sure if I've missed it but what held the (original and
replacement) drop arm in place on the splines, if anything?

One assumes you can easily get 'more' LR drop arms and if you were
able to get another one the same as came with the dumper, you could
probably weld (or have welded) them into the ultimate solution
(leaving the original untouched so you can revert to stock if
required)?

FWIW, if both the drop arms are forged (not cast)

http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/6.htm

And considering the potential of heat treating the final item ...

.... then even if you did cut both the arms and make them into one
suitable solution, if done carefully and the parts retained, there is
nothing stopping you reverting the work later on?

That's what I would do / have done, given the chance (but not on a
road going vehicle, if the items weren't suitable for such work or if
there was a good chance it wasn't going to be 100% successful). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 22/06/2016 21:26, jim wrote:
Roger Wrote in message:


Do you have access to any welding equipment? Could you cut the splined
end off current drop arm and weld the equivalent bit from the LR drop
arm to it?

Mmm well I do have a mig set but not sure welding cast iron is a
"good thing"?


It won't be cast iron - it will be a steel forging.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 23/06/2016 08:03, Brian Gaff wrote:
Sounds like the only people who could steer this thing need to also have
body building first.
Is there no other box that has a different gear ratio so more turns of the
wheel are needed to steer it thus reducing the loads?
Brian


That would actually make things worse - putting *more* torque into the
spline in extremis.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 11:20:38 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

What you might want to consider is "gluing" the spline parts
together
with JB weld (metal filled epoxy).

Thought that and ilk wasn't great in shear?

But it won't be in shear, it will be in compression (assuming you
still
have some engagement bewteen the splines). If you don't have any
engagement, forget about it.

It will be in shear and the polyester (not epoxy) liquid metals are
pretty good in shear.

Assuming the splines still mesh (and it appears they do) any "gap
filling goop" will be in compression/tension depending on side of
spline and direction of rotation. There could be shear with any
rotational slop but the idea of the goop is to fully take up any
slop...

I'd assume that the is a bolt or nut at the end of the shaft that
holds the drop arm in place with no movement up/down the shaft which
would put any goop into sheer.

--
Cheers
Dave.

T i m Wrote in message:
On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:59:51 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

snip

As per op the splined components are non-matching.

I'm not sure if I've missed it but what held the (original and
replacement) drop arm in place on the splines, if anything?

What's changed here since the dumper was built is the steering
box, column and steering wheel.

The bodged LR steering box has a shaft slightly too small to "just
fit" the original steering drop/pitman arm.

When the LR bodge was done, sheet copper was used to make a rough
interference fit between the splined LR shaft and the original
steering drop/pitman arm.



One assumes you can easily get 'more' LR drop arms and if you were
able to get another one the same as came with the dumper, you could
probably weld (or have welded) them into the ultimate solution
(leaving the original untouched so you can revert to stock if
required)?

True.

FWIW, if both the drop arms are forged (not cast)

http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/6.htm

And considering the potential of heat treating the final item ...

... then even if you did cut both the arms and make them into one
suitable solution, if done carefully and the parts retained, there is
nothing stopping you reverting the work later on?

That's what I would do / have done, given the chance (but not on a
road going vehicle, if the items weren't suitable for such work or if
there was a good chance it wasn't going to be 100% successful). ;-)

I'll have a look, thanks
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

jim wrote:
Wrote in message:

On 6/22/2016 10:29 PM, jim wrote:

Wrote in message:

On 6/22/2016 9:15 PM, jim wrote:

lid Wrote in message:

On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...


Not surprised that the bolt failed. What you might want to consider is
"gluing" the spline parts together with JB weld (metal filled epoxy).

Thought that and ilk wasn't great in shear?


But it won't be in shear, it will be in compression (assuming you still
have some engagement bewteen the splines). If you don't have any
engagement, forget about it.


As per op the splined components are non-matching.


The roll pin selection here includes 8.5mm dia (just measured
it) and a couple of lengths:-


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 13:14:33 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

T i m Wrote in message:
On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:59:51 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

snip

As per op the splined components are non-matching.

I'm not sure if I've missed it but what held the (original and
replacement) drop arm in place on the splines, if anything?

What's changed here since the dumper was built is the steering
box, column and steering wheel.

The bodged LR steering box has a shaft slightly too small to "just
fit" the original steering drop/pitman arm.

When the LR bodge was done, sheet copper was used to make a rough
interference fit between the splined LR shaft and the original
steering drop/pitman arm.

Yes, I got all that, I was just asking how the drop arm(s) were held
in place on their respective boxes. ;-)

snip


Cheers, T i m

T i m Wrote in message:
On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 13:14:33 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

T i m Wrote in message:
On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:59:51 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

snip

As per op the splined components are non-matching.

I'm not sure if I've missed it but what held the (original and
replacement) drop arm in place on the splines, if anything?

What's changed here since the dumper was built is the steering
box, column and steering wheel.

The bodged LR steering box has a shaft slightly too small to "just
fit" the original steering drop/pitman arm.

When the LR bodge was done, sheet copper was used to make a rough
interference fit between the splined LR shaft and the original
steering drop/pitman arm.

Yes, I got all that, I was just asking how the drop arm(s) were held
in place on their respective boxes. ;-)

Oh nuts!
Literally!:-) these splined shafts have threaded outer ends onto
which a large nut tightens and stops the splined parts
wandering...

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 22:48:29 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

T i m Wrote in message:
On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 13:14:33 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

T i m Wrote in message:
On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:59:51 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

snip

As per op the splined components are non-matching.

I'm not sure if I've missed it but what held the (original and
replacement) drop arm in place on the splines, if anything?

What's changed here since the dumper was built is the steering
box, column and steering wheel.

The bodged LR steering box has a shaft slightly too small to "just
fit" the original steering drop/pitman arm.

When the LR bodge was done, sheet copper was used to make a rough
interference fit between the splined LR shaft and the original
steering drop/pitman arm.

Yes, I got all that, I was just asking how the drop arm(s) were held
in place on their respective boxes. ;-)

Oh nuts!
Literally!:-)

;-)

these splined shafts have threaded outer ends onto
which a large nut tightens and stops the splined parts
wandering...

Ah, ok, thanks.

So that would mean you couldn't easily make a spline adaptor so would
be back to a cut-n-shut with the two arms.

With that in mind and as others have mentioned, it might be worth a
try at least with one of the 'liquid meta' type two-part epoxys, like
JB Weld etc.

Everything physically and chemically clean, maybe make up a rubber
washer to go under the arm (depending on orientation etc) to stop the
glue getting out and the same on top under the nut (washer?) till the
glue has cured. Maybe get some suitably sized wire 'shims' to put down
the splines to ensure the arm goes on with a light interference fit
and that way it won't move the glue as it's curing (ideally 24 hours).

Warm the arm and splines (if possible, hot air gun), mix up sufficient
epoxy to be sure to do the job and quickly spread it over the splines
and inside the arm (sufficiently to ensure the void is filled but not
too much so it goes everywhere). Push the two parts together and
remove and surplus and fill any voids, before putting the rubber
washer and nut back on finger tight but ensuring the arm is far enough
down to allow the nut to bottom.

It might be worth putting some grease over the thread as precaution in
case you get any epoxy on it.

Leave 24 hours

The idea is that the joint doesn't move (at all), because if it does,
it will probably wear slack again over time.

Cheers, T i m

On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 14:34:29 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim k wrote:

snip

As a follow up, I cut and extended by 2.5" the LR drop arm with a
lump of 8mm x 40mm mild steel bar I had knocking
around.

Ground all meeting edges to a deep V and welded up with my 150A
mig welder with gasless wire.

Went pretty ok once I got my eye in, and remembered to turn the
mig up full and sort the wire speed out :-)

Back on the dumper, connected up and gingerly tested around my
yard. Then some full lock turns (whilst moving).


Seems OK to me! I even painted it with cold galvanising spray -
how's that for optimism?

;-)


Thanks to all for assistance and guidance.

Thanks for the update. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 22:21, jim wrote:
Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 21:15, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was replaced with
a land rover series steering box and column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit shorter than
the dumper original and fouled the other linkages etc so wouldn't
do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is very
slightly too large for the land rover steering box's splined
shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper (from a
piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side) brutalised into
shape and forced on/in to the splined shaft/hole as an
interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the steering got
"over stressed" and failed, at the splined shaft
bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft (I.e.
Through the splined parts) but so far the random "to hand" 7mm
ish bolt we bolted through sheared off after only a few minor
gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide?
If it is then putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may
cause it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque from
one to the other.
Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from different sources, they
don't match...

Most drop arms I have come across have tapered splines?

I would be surprised if the Landy drop arm is cast iron. Can you file
it? Is it really that hard.

I might consider cutting the Landy drop arm, and extending it using your
MIG welder. Further the cut is from the spline, the less force the weld
will have to take.

I like the sound of that Fred.

I'll have to dig it out and see what would need to be done.

Any suggestions for how to approach the joins?

I read you have a hobby MIG?

I would find a donor solid bar of similar size and heavily chamfer the
edges I'm going to weld.

I might allow some separation of a few mm of the pieces to assist in
deep penetrating welds and keep going round until the weld is built up.

Most of the strength of a bar will be on the outside so a modest weld
depth, say 6mm+ or so, should be OK.

As a follow up, I cut and extended by 2.5" the LR drop arm with a
lump of 8mm x 40mm mild steel bar I had knocking
around.

Ground all meeting edges to a deep V and welded up with my 150A
mig welder with gasless wire.

Went pretty ok once I got my eye in, and remembered to turn the
mig up full and sort the wire speed out :-)

Back on the dumper, connected up and gingerly tested around my
yard. Then some full lock turns (whilst moving).


Seems OK to me! I even painted it with cold galvanising spray -
how's that for optimism?

Thanks to all for assistance and guidance.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 25/06/2016 14:34, jim wrote:
Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 22:21, jim wrote:
Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 21:15, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was
replaced with a land rover series steering box and
column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit
shorter than the dumper original and fouled the other
linkages etc so wouldn't do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is
very slightly too large for the land rover steering box's
splined shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper
(from a piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side)
brutalised into shape and forced on/in to the splined
shaft/hole as an interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the
steering got "over stressed" and failed, at the splined
shaft bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft
(I.e. Through the splined parts) but so far the random
"to hand" 7mm ish bolt we bolted through sheared off
after only a few minor gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide? If it is then
putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may cause
it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque
from one to the other. Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from
different sources, they don't match...

Most drop arms I have come across have tapered splines?

I would be surprised if the Landy drop arm is cast iron. Can
you file it? Is it really that hard.

I might consider cutting the Landy drop arm, and extending it
using your MIG welder. Further the cut is from the spline, the
less force the weld will have to take.

I like the sound of that Fred.

I'll have to dig it out and see what would need to be done.

Any suggestions for how to approach the joins?

I read you have a hobby MIG?

I would find a donor solid bar of similar size and heavily chamfer
the edges I'm going to weld.

I might allow some separation of a few mm of the pieces to assist
in deep penetrating welds and keep going round until the weld is
built up.

Most of the strength of a bar will be on the outside so a modest
weld depth, say 6mm+ or so, should be OK.

As a follow up, I cut and extended by 2.5" the LR drop arm with a
lump of 8mm x 40mm mild steel bar I had knocking around.

Ground all meeting edges to a deep V and welded up with my 150A mig
welder with gasless wire.

Went pretty ok once I got my eye in, and remembered to turn the mig
up full and sort the wire speed out :-)

Back on the dumper, connected up and gingerly tested around my yard.
Then some full lock turns (whilst moving).


Seems OK to me! I even painted it with cold galvanising spray - how's
that for optimism?

Thanks to all for assistance and guidance.

Its good to hear a result. If it does break, perhaps you could used
reinforcing bars along the arm?

On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 14:34:29 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim wrote:

Back on the dumper, connected up and gingerly tested around my
yard. Then some full lock turns (whilst moving).

Seems OK to me! I even painted it with cold galvanising spray -
how's that for optimism?

The real test be hitting a rock/hole whilst cornering and loaded up.

With the other wheel is fairly free to move the only thing stopping
the wheels getting knocked of course is the drop arm and steering box
etc.

8 x 40 mm doesn't seem very big to me but hey, if it works...

--
Cheers
Dave.

Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 25/06/2016 14:34, jim wrote:
Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 22:21, jim wrote:
Fredxxx Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 21:15, jim wrote:
dennis@home Wrote in message:
On 22/06/2016 19:28, jim wrote:

A small 1tonne dumper I know has a steering problem.

The original steering box is pretty knacked and was
replaced with a land rover series steering box and
column.

Now, the land rover steering drop arm was quite a bit
shorter than the dumper original and fouled the other
linkages etc so wouldn't do.

The original dumper drop arm's splined hole diameter is
very slightly too large for the land rover steering box's
splined shaft.

This was bodged a few years back by me with thin copper
(from a piece of 22mm pipe iirc, slit open down one side)
brutalised into shape and forced on/in to the splined
shaft/hole as an interference fit.

This has been just about ok til recently when the
steering got "over stressed" and failed, at the splined
shaft bodge.

We've cross drilled an 8mm hole through the arm and shaft
(I.e. Through the splined parts) but so far the random
"to hand" 7mm ish bolt we bolted through sheared off
after only a few minor gentle steering manoeuvres...

So stronger bolt? Rebodge with copper and bolt? Er...?

Any better ideas?

TIA


Are the splines there to allow it to slide? If it is then
putting a pin through it will stop it sliding and may cause
it to shear.


No the splines would ideally mesh snugly to transmit torque
from one to the other. Trouble is as the 2 "halves" are from
different sources, they don't match...

Most drop arms I have come across have tapered splines?

I would be surprised if the Landy drop arm is cast iron. Can
you file it? Is it really that hard.

I might consider cutting the Landy drop arm, and extending it
using your MIG welder. Further the cut is from the spline, the
less force the weld will have to take.

I like the sound of that Fred.

I'll have to dig it out and see what would need to be done.

Any suggestions for how to approach the joins?

I read you have a hobby MIG?

I would find a donor solid bar of similar size and heavily chamfer
the edges I'm going to weld.

I might allow some separation of a few mm of the pieces to assist
in deep penetrating welds and keep going round until the weld is
built up.

Most of the strength of a bar will be on the outside so a modest
weld depth, say 6mm+ or so, should be OK.

As a follow up, I cut and extended by 2.5" the LR drop arm with a
lump of 8mm x 40mm mild steel bar I had knocking around.

Ground all meeting edges to a deep V and welded up with my 150A mig
welder with gasless wire.

Went pretty ok once I got my eye in, and remembered to turn the mig
up full and sort the wire speed out :-)

Back on the dumper, connected up and gingerly tested around my yard.
Then some full lock turns (whilst moving).


Seems OK to me! I even painted it with cold galvanising spray - how's
that for optimism?

Thanks to all for assistance and guidance.

Its good to hear a result. If it does break, perhaps you could used
reinforcing bars along the arm?


Yup, that did strike me in the build up :-)

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

"Dave Liquorice" Wrote in message:
On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 14:34:29 +0100 (GMT+01:00), jim wrote:

Back on the dumper, connected up and gingerly tested around my
yard. Then some full lock turns (whilst moving).

Seems OK to me! I even painted it with cold galvanising spray -
how's that for optimism?

The real test be hitting a rock/hole whilst cornering and loaded up.

With the other wheel is fairly free to move the only thing stopping
the wheels getting knocked of course is the drop arm and steering box
etc.

8 x 40 mm doesn't seem very big to me but hey, if it works...

So far... I doubt the 8x40 is going to bend somehow....?

--
Jim K


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