Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on ply
which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun bleaching.

What would be the best way to make them look more presentable?

Would it be safe to power sand them with a random orbit sander using fine
grade?

What would be the best finish - original was I'd say eggshell. Water based
varnishes don't tend to darken it quite so much. So would oil based be
better? Or would teak oil be easier?

Basically I'd like to get back to as near factory finish as possible - but
don't expect them to look brand new. Nicely aged would be fine. Just not
scratched. ;-)

Basically the tops are the worst for scratches. But I'd be worried that
only doing the tops would stand out from the rest of the cabinet.

--
*Can atheists get insurance for acts of God? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13/04/2016 10:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on ply
which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun bleaching.

What would be the best way to make them look more presentable?

Would it be safe to power sand them with a random orbit sander using fine
grade?

Probably, although the veneer may be quite thin, so you would need to be
careful.

What would be the best finish - original was I'd say eggshell. Water based
varnishes don't tend to darken it quite so much. So would oil based be
better? Or would teak oil be easier?

Something like liberon finishing oil can be quite nice - just wipe on a
few coats, and it dries to a soft sheen. Its also easy to reapply and
touch up later if you need to.

Alternatively one of the wipe on hard wax / oil combinations if you want
a more durable finish. Some of the Osmo finishes give very nice low
sheet non plasticky looking results.

http://www.osmouk.com/sitechapter.cf...er=82&page=247


Basically I'd like to get back to as near factory finish as possible - but
don't expect them to look brand new. Nicely aged would be fine. Just not
scratched. ;-)

Basically the tops are the worst for scratches. But I'd be worried that
only doing the tops would stand out from the rest of the cabinet.


--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on ply
which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun bleaching.

My speakers date back to 1974, and, over time, the teak suffered,
particularly the tops, although no deep scratches. Just discolouration
and water marks.

I rubbed down the tops with fine wire wool along the grain then applied
Danish Oil. Not sure 'perfect' would be the description, but one hell
of a lot better than they were. Could probably get closer to perfect
with further applications.

A few years ago, I relieved my mother of some Ercol dining chairs bought
by my parents, mid 60s. Over the years, they had become soiled, paint
splattered and generally tatty, yet sound. Had them dipped which
removed every trace of paint and original finish, but raised the grain.
Many an hour with fine wire wool and, when smooth, multiple applications
of Danish Oil got them as close to perfect as I'll ever achieve.
--
Graeme

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 13/04/2016 10:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on
ply which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun
bleaching.

What would be the best way to make them look more presentable?

Would it be safe to power sand them with a random orbit sander using
fine grade?

Probably, although the veneer may be quite thin, so you would need to be
careful.

That's what worries me. ;-) It is high quality 12mm birch ply, and looks
to have been pre-veneered by the construction. Rather than the box made,
then veneered.

What would be the best finish - original was I'd say eggshell. Water
based varnishes don't tend to darken it quite so much. So would oil
based be better? Or would teak oil be easier?

Something like liberon finishing oil can be quite nice - just wipe on a
few coats, and it dries to a soft sheen. Its also easy to reapply and
touch up later if you need to.

That is very appealing. I'd prefer to use an oil or wax than a varnish.
What would have been used originally?

Alternatively one of the wipe on hard wax / oil combinations if you want
a more durable finish. Some of the Osmo finishes give very nice low
sheet non plasticky looking results.

http://www.osmouk.com/sitechapter.cf...er=82&page=247


Basically I'd like to get back to as near factory finish as possible - but
don't expect them to look brand new. Nicely aged would be fine. Just not
scratched. ;-)

Basically the tops are the worst for scratches. But I'd be worried that
only doing the tops would stand out from the rest of the cabinet.

--
*Microsoft broke Volkswagen's record: They only made 21.4 million bugs.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13/04/2016 11:13, News wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on
ply
which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun bleaching.

My speakers date back to 1974, and, over time, the teak suffered,
particularly the tops, although no deep scratches. Just discolouration
and water marks.

I rubbed down the tops with fine wire wool along the grain then applied
Danish Oil. Not sure 'perfect' would be the description, but one hell
of a lot better than they were. Could probably get closer to perfect
with further applications.

A few years ago, I relieved my mother of some Ercol dining chairs bought
by my parents, mid 60s. Over the years, they had become soiled, paint
splattered and generally tatty, yet sound. Had them dipped which
removed every trace of paint and original finish, but raised the grain.
Many an hour with fine wire wool and, when smooth, multiple applications
of Danish Oil got them as close to perfect as I'll ever achieve.

Bolloms Briwax P7 is a pretty safe bet, but the original version if
possible. Still the antique trade's standby I think

On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 10:51:12 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Basically I'd like to get back to as near factory finish as possible - but
don't expect them to look brand new. Nicely aged would be fine. Just not
scratched. ;-)

Basically the tops are the worst for scratches. But I'd be worried that
only doing the tops would stand out from the rest of the cabinet.

I personally wouldn't want to risk going through the veneer.

And *I* would use "Renuwell Furniture restorer". It does work, is very little
work, and it blends scratches and so on very well. "Nicely aged but not
scratched" is the result I'd expect from it, and got on the 70's teak veneer
speakers he-)

Wipe on, wait, wipe off. A very little goes a long way, the 1/4 liter would do
50 or so speaker tops. (It seems to be a blend of white spirit and oils...)

If it's a recommendation: a lot of the used furniture dealers here have some on
sale somewhere in back.

Ebay has it, "Renuwell Möbel Regenerator", and sellers that sell to the uk...
http://r.ebay.com/ziVanh

Thomas Prufer

In article ,
News wrote:
I rubbed down the tops with fine wire wool along the grain then applied
Danish Oil. Not sure 'perfect' would be the description, but one hell
of a lot better than they were. Could probably get closer to perfect
with further applications.

I took the plunge and used the random orbit sander. Then Danish oil. Very
much better than before - but slightly too matt compared to the original.
Should I just try some wax polish on top?

--
*If you don't pay your exorcist you get repossessed.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In articleN7qdnZxOGPoBhJPKnZ2dnUU78fHNnZ2d@brightvie w.co.uk,
John wrote:

On 13/04/2016 10:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on
ply which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun
bleaching.

What would be the best way to make them look more presentable?

Would it be safe to power sand them with a random orbit sander using
fine grade?


Probably, although the veneer may be quite thin, so you would need to be
careful.

That's what worries me. ;-) It is high quality 12mm birch ply, and looks
to have been pre-veneered by the construction. Rather than the box made,
then veneered.


What would be the best finish - original was I'd say eggshell. Water
based varnishes don't tend to darken it quite so much. So would oil
based be better? Or would teak oil be easier?


Something like liberon finishing oil can be quite nice - just wipe on a
few coats, and it dries to a soft sheen. Its also easy to reapply and
touch up later if you need to.

That is very appealing. I'd prefer to use an oil or wax than a varnish.
What would have been used originally?

My walnut Tannoys were oiled.

On 13/04/2016 13:26, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 13/04/2016 10:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Have a pair of speakers (80s) with that fairly standard teak veneer on
ply which was very common once. Have a few scratches and some sun
bleaching.

What would be the best way to make them look more presentable?

Would it be safe to power sand them with a random orbit sander using
fine grade?

Probably, although the veneer may be quite thin, so you would need to be
careful.

That's what worries me. ;-) It is high quality 12mm birch ply, and looks
to have been pre-veneered by the construction. Rather than the box made,
then veneered.

In which case the outer ply is usually a resonable thickness - that
should sand ok.

What would be the best finish - original was I'd say eggshell. Water
based varnishes don't tend to darken it quite so much. So would oil
based be better? Or would teak oil be easier?

Something like liberon finishing oil can be quite nice - just wipe on a
few coats, and it dries to a soft sheen. Its also easy to reapply and
touch up later if you need to.

That is very appealing. I'd prefer to use an oil or wax than a varnish.
What would have been used originally?

Probably a cellulose lacquer or similar that can be sprayed on and dries
fast.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/04/2016 17:01, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
News wrote:
I rubbed down the tops with fine wire wool along the grain then applied
Danish Oil. Not sure 'perfect' would be the description, but one hell
of a lot better than they were. Could probably get closer to perfect
with further applications.

I took the plunge and used the random orbit sander. Then Danish oil. Very
much better than before - but slightly too matt compared to the original.
Should I just try some wax polish on top?

Something like Black Bison wax should add a little shine. You can apply
it with 0000 wire wool if there is any roughness to the surface - that
will smooth it out nicely. Leave it for a few mins and then buff with a
soft cloth.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 13/04/2016 17:01, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
News wrote:
I rubbed down the tops with fine wire wool along the grain then
applied Danish Oil. Not sure 'perfect' would be the description, but
one hell of a lot better than they were. Could probably get closer
to perfect with further applications.

I took the plunge and used the random orbit sander. Then Danish oil.
Very much better than before - but slightly too matt compared to the
original. Should I just try some wax polish on top?

Something like Black Bison wax should add a little shine. You can apply
it with 0000 wire wool if there is any roughness to the surface - that
will smooth it out nicely. Leave it for a few mins and then buff with a
soft cloth.

Done just this - although I used a Colron wax that my local place had in
stock - and it worked beautifully. You'd be hard pressed to see the
difference in finish between the original lacquer or whatever on the other
sides and the bits I've re-done. Thanks.

--
*Procrastination is the art of keeping up with yesterday.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.