My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?

On 01/11/15 16:32, DerbyBorn wrote:
My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?


Check the PSU is happy to supply a much reduced load (counter intuitive
I know).

Tim Watts wrote in
:

On 01/11/15 16:32, DerbyBorn wrote:
My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen
cupboards. They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?


Check the PSU is happy to supply a much reduced load (counter
intuitive I know).




Will the data label have a min?

On 01/11/15 17:04, DerbyBorn wrote:
Tim Watts wrote in
:

On 01/11/15 16:32, DerbyBorn wrote:
My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen
cupboards. They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?


Check the PSU is happy to supply a much reduced load (counter
intuitive I know).




Will the data label have a min?


Sometimes

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 01/11/15 16:32, DerbyBorn wrote:
My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?


Check the PSU is happy to supply a much reduced load (counter intuitive I
know).



That is only half the answer.

As they are G4 lamps then a DC LED driver will almost certainly be needed.
If the OP can find AC LED G4s than you are correct.


Screwfix claim to be selling 240V G4 LEDs but I think that they are talking
********.


--
Adam

On 01/11/15 17:10, ARW wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 01/11/15 16:32, DerbyBorn wrote:
My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen
cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?


Check the PSU is happy to supply a much reduced load (counter
intuitive I know).



That is only half the answer.

As they are G4 lamps then a DC LED driver will almost certainly be
needed. If the OP can find AC LED G4s than you are correct.

I was wondering to say that, but G4's don't have any way to force
polarity, do they? I assumed they must have a bridge rectifier built in
or similar circuit to compensate. But it's a good point even if that's
the case as AC's going to flicker - and the G4 LEDs I've seen have
recommended replacing the PSU with an LED friendly one.


Screwfix claim to be selling 240V G4 LEDs but I think that they are
talking ********.

In article ,
"ARW" writes:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 01/11/15 16:32, DerbyBorn wrote:
My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?


Check the PSU is happy to supply a much reduced load (counter intuitive I
know).



That is only half the answer.

As they are G4 lamps then a DC LED driver will almost certainly be needed.
If the OP can find AC LED G4s than you are correct.

Kosnic did some really good one-sided g4 capsule replacements
(multi-LED, AC, 2W, wide angle, indistinguishable from the capsule
LEDs when mixed in a row of fittings), but they sadly stopped
making them. I believe Verbatim still makes one (single LED)
and Maplin did stock it a while back. I suspect it may not be
wide angle, so check first or you might end up with a small
bright circle of light on the worktop just under each light.

There are capsule replacements which emit light in all directions,
but you will probably lose over half the light if you put them in
a fitting with a reflector to direct the light in one direction.
I have some Integral ones from CPC which work OK (and again are AC),
but they're in a fitting which needs light emitted in all directions.

Watch out for the LED's colour temperature. There are many at 5000K
and upwards, but you probably want something more in the 2700K-3500K,
depending on the rest of the lighting in the room. (5000K+ is
particularly bad for kitchens where any meat preparation takes place.)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 16:32:10 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:

My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen
cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?

There's plenty of 12v G4 LEDs about, just a straight swap for the
existing bulbs.

Adrian wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 16:32:10 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:

My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen
cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?

There's plenty of 12v G4 LEDs about, just a straight swap for the
existing bulbs.

Indeed, but there are at least a couple of potential problems,
which I have discovered when trying to do a swap for the lights
in my extractor hood.

I went for a disc type, which nearly fitted, except that the
dimensions had omitted any details of the components on the back
of the board, and a capacitor stuck up inconveniently. Pressing
on, the first lamp worked OK, in parallel with an existing
halogen, but when both LED lamps were in place, the supply was
clearly not happy and they flickered. Another one down to
experience. :-(

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 11:26:59 AM UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
Adrian wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 16:32:10 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:

My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen
cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?

There's plenty of 12v G4 LEDs about, just a straight swap for the
existing bulbs.

Indeed, but there are at least a couple of potential problems,
which I have discovered when trying to do a swap for the lights
in my extractor hood.

I went for a disc type, which nearly fitted, except that the
dimensions had omitted any details of the components on the back
of the board, and a capacitor stuck up inconveniently. Pressing
on, the first lamp worked OK, in parallel with an existing
halogen, but when both LED lamps were in place, the supply was
clearly not happy and they flickered. Another one down to
experience. :-(

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

The COB disc type I got with G4 connection was polarity sensitive - ie it didn't work one way, but the other. As it too was for under-cupboard and the correct 'other' had it pointing up the way (!), I had to change over the polarity of the leads.
Rob

In article ,
Chris J Dixon writes:
Adrian wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 16:32:10 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:

My daughter has a house that has IKEA lights under her kitchen
cupboards.
They take 12volt 20 watt G4 bulbs.

Could I directly replace the fittings with LED fittings?

There's plenty of 12v G4 LEDs about, just a straight swap for the
existing bulbs.

Indeed, but there are at least a couple of potential problems,
which I have discovered when trying to do a swap for the lights
in my extractor hood.

I went for a disc type, which nearly fitted, except that the
dimensions had omitted any details of the components on the back
of the board, and a capacitor stuck up inconveniently. Pressing
on, the first lamp worked OK, in parallel with an existing
halogen, but when both LED lamps were in place, the supply was
clearly not happy and they flickered. Another one down to
experience. :-(

12V halogen supplies often have a lower power limit, e.g.
20W-60W. This is because they have no voltage regulation, so to
ensure the output remains within an acceptable voltage range,
they check the power output is in a known acceptable range.
Sometimes leaving one halogen in will meet the minimum power
requirements, but changing to a regulated LED driver will be
better.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

12V halogen supplies often have a lower power limit, e.g.
20W-60W. This is because they have no voltage regulation, so to
ensure the output remains within an acceptable voltage range,
they check the power output is in a known acceptable range.
Sometimes leaving one halogen in will meet the minimum power
requirements, but changing to a regulated LED driver will be
better.


Can you point me to a trypical sort of LED Driver. I have no understanding
of LED requirments.

On 10/11/15 22:14, DerbyBorn wrote:

12V halogen supplies often have a lower power limit, e.g.
20W-60W. This is because they have no voltage regulation, so to
ensure the output remains within an acceptable voltage range,
they check the power output is in a known acceptable range.
Sometimes leaving one halogen in will meet the minimum power
requirements, but changing to a regulated LED driver will be
better.


Can you point me to a trypical sort of LED Driver. I have no understanding
of LED requirments.



https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...mer/index.html

As you see, there's not really much of a standard - you need to get one
to suit what you are driving.

Constant voltage seem the more common type. And I suspect 12V would be
the more prevelant, but I don;t know for sure.

There's also constant current - but those seem to be very keyed to the
specific LEDs you are using (which is what you'd expect).