Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to a socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are there for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before presumably poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the rear of the clock....

TIA

Jim K

"JimK" wrote in message
...

Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA
wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to a
socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light
switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the
wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are there
for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before presumably
poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the rear of the
clock....

Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral. So where do
you want to hide the transfomer?



--
Adam

/Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral. So where do
you want to hide the transfomer? /Q

Indeed:-)

How about "hiding" the transformer in a double plastic pboard backbox, with a blanking plate on the front, 12v output out the back of it through the rest of the stud wall to the clock?

Cheers
Jim K

JimK wrote:
/Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral. So where do
you want to hide the transfomer? /Q

Indeed:-)

How about "hiding" the transformer in a double plastic pboard backbox, with a blanking plate on the front, 12v output out the back of it through the rest of the stud wall to the clock?

Cheers
Jim K

It might over heat? maybe some slots in the cover plate would be a good
precaution.

Bob Minchin wrote
JimK wrote

Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral.
So where do you want to hide the transfomer?

Indeed:-)

How about "hiding" the transformer in a double plastic pboard
backbox, with a blanking plate on the front, 12v output out the
back of it through the rest of the stud wall to the clock?

It might over heat?

Not if it's a switch mode supply.

maybe some slots in the cover plate would be a good precaution.

Makes more sense to get a switch mode replacement if it isn't.

Rod Speed wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote
JimK wrote

Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral. So
where do you want to hide the transfomer?

Indeed:-)

How about "hiding" the transformer in a double plastic pboard
backbox, with a blanking plate on the front, 12v output out the back
of it through the rest of the stud wall to the clock?

It might over heat?

Not if it's a switch mode supply.
maybe some slots in the cover plate would be a good precaution.

Makes more sense to get a switch mode replacement if it isn't.
Switchers will still get warm in a place with no ventilation and this
leads to early capacitor failure.

If you get a power supply which runs cool as its over rated, then it might
not matter as per some Halogen lights etc.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
JimK wrote:
/Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral. So where
do
you want to hide the transfomer? /Q

Indeed:-)

How about "hiding" the transformer in a double plastic pboard backbox,
with a blanking plate on the front, 12v output out the back of it through
the rest of the stud wall to the clock?

Cheers
Jim K

It might over heat? maybe some slots in the cover plate would be a good
precaution.

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
JimK wrote:
/Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral. So where
do
you want to hide the transfomer? /Q

Indeed:-)

How about "hiding" the transformer in a double plastic pboard backbox,
with a blanking plate on the front, 12v output out the back of it through
the rest of the stud wall to the clock?

Cheers
Jim K

It might over heat? maybe some slots in the cover plate would be a good
precaution.


Sounds like a job for an angle grinder:-)

--
Adam

In article ,
says...

"JimK" wrote in message
...

Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA
wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to a
socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light
switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the
wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are there
for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before presumably
poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the rear of the
clock....

Well the fan isolator will have a permanent live and neutral. So where do
you want to hide the transfomer?

Is the output of the "12V 1000mA wall wart" AC or DC?
If the latter, a 240v/12v transformer is unlikely to give satisfaction.

--
Sam

JimK wrote:
Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to a socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are there for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before presumably poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the rear of the clock....

TIA

Jim K

Obviously you can put the wall wart on the other side of the wall and
the cloakroom extractor circuit will be man enough to power it.
Whether you can do it within regs is another matter.
Presumably the wall wart has a foreign pin configuration so even if you
found a socket to fit, you possibly can install it within regs.
If you bought a UK one it would have 13amp pins on it but I doubt if a
13amp socket can be installed on the fan circuit even if correctly
fused. you could fit a 5amp socket but possibly not get a match wall wart.
If it were mine I'd just do it but it is up to your friend and his
attitude to compliance with regs.

On 16/10/2015 19:25, Bob Minchin wrote:
JimK wrote:
Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA
wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to
a socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light
switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the
wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are
there for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before
presumably poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the
rear of the clock....

TIA

Jim K

Obviously you can put the wall wart on the other side of the wall and
the cloakroom extractor circuit will be man enough to power it.
Whether you can do it within regs is another matter.
Presumably the wall wart has a foreign pin configuration so even if you
found a socket to fit, you possibly can install it within regs.
If you bought a UK one it would have 13amp pins on it but I doubt if a
13amp socket can be installed on the fan circuit even if correctly
fused. you could fit a 5amp socket but possibly not get a match wall wart.
If it were mine I'd just do it but it is up to your friend and his
attitude to compliance with regs.

How about using something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60W-12V-Ha...AOSw7aBVCu1 T

No reason it can't go off the cloakroom extractor circuit if mounted
with sufficient ventilation?

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
JimK wrote:
Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA
wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to a
socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light
switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the
wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are
there for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before
presumably poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the rear
of the clock....

TIA

Jim K

Obviously you can put the wall wart on the other side of the wall and the
cloakroom extractor circuit will be man enough to power it.
Whether you can do it within regs is another matter.
Presumably the wall wart has a foreign pin configuration so even if you
found a socket to fit, you possibly can install it within regs.


If you bought a UK one it would have 13amp pins on it but I doubt if a
13amp socket can be installed on the fan circuit even if correctly fused.
you could fit a 5amp socket but possibly not get a match wall wart.


If the "UK socket" was labeled up as "clock only" then it complies with the
regs even when powered from a lighting/fan circuit.


--
Adam

ARW wrote:
"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
JimK wrote:
Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v
1000mA wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily
to a socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light
switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in
the wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are
there for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before
presumably poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the
rear of the clock....

TIA

Jim K

Obviously you can put the wall wart on the other side of the wall and
the cloakroom extractor circuit will be man enough to power it.
Whether you can do it within regs is another matter.
Presumably the wall wart has a foreign pin configuration so even if
you found a socket to fit, you possibly can install it within regs.


If you bought a UK one it would have 13amp pins on it but I doubt if a
13amp socket can be installed on the fan circuit even if correctly
fused. you could fit a 5amp socket but possibly not get a match wall
wart.


If the "UK socket" was labeled up as "clock only" then it complies with
the regs even when powered from a lighting/fan circuit.


Common sense prevails then - good to see!

I think you firstly need to find out what current is needed for the clock.
Personally I'd not use a switch mode supply, they seem to often kick up if
presented by any kind of inductive load. You also do not say if its a/C or
D/C.
Some years ago I came across an analogue wall clock th at ren on 24v A/C
but it was always slow when powered up here in the UK, suspect it expected
60 hz a/c.
Sounds like you need a very slim line mains adaptor or if the clock has
room buld one inside its case.
Without more details its hard to advise.

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"JimK" wrote in message
...
Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA
wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to a
socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light
switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the
wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are there
for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before presumably
poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the rear of the
clock....

TIA

Jim K

Brian-Gaff wrote

I think you firstly need to find out what current is needed for the clock.

Unlikely that its much. The bulk of the current would be for the
illumination.

Personally I'd not use a switch mode supply, they seem to often kick up if
presented by any kind of inductive load.

Any kind is overstated. They work fine with stuff like a clock.

You also do not say if its a/C or D/C.

Some years ago I came across an analogue wall clock th at ren on 24v A/C
but it was always slow when powered up here in the UK, suspect it expected
60 hz a/c.

Bet this one is just using a plug pack instead
of a battery because of the illumination.

Sounds like you need a very slim line mains adaptor or if the clock has
room buld one inside its case.

Without more details its hard to advise.

Very likely it will work fine with a switch mode
power supply in a backbox behind the clock.

"JimK" wrote in message
...
Friend has acquired an illuminated wall clock. Came with an 12v 1000mA
wall wart adaptor.

It's hung on a stud wall and the wallwart wire drapes down untidily to a
socket below.

Other side of the stud wall (or technically within it) are 2 light
switches and an isolation switch for a cloakroom extractor fan.

It would be very nice to power the clock somehow from the mains in the
wall or through the wall iyswim.

Clearly a 240/12v transformer is required but what possibilities are
there for powering it from the existing wiring in the wall before
presumably poking the wire through the skins of plasterboard to the rear
of the clock....

TIA

Jim K