I know this has been covered (currently *tile hall thread*) but...

Elderly David Brown tractor fitted with Q cab and hence sound reducing
lining.

The lining is a flexible sandwich of Elephant hide vinyl over about 6mm
of foam backed with some sort of fabric inner.

The problem is choosing the most suitable adhesive to re-fix. The area
is approaching 1m2 over the curved inner surface of the metal mudguards.

40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...
--
Tim Lamb

On 01/08/2015 09:18, Tim Lamb wrote:
I know this has been covered (currently *tile hall thread*) but...

Elderly David Brown tractor fitted with Q cab and hence sound reducing
lining.

The lining is a flexible sandwich of Elephant hide vinyl over about 6mm
of foam backed with some sort of fabric inner.

The problem is choosing the most suitable adhesive to re-fix. The area
is approaching 1m2 over the curved inner surface of the metal mudguards.

40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...


Contact adhesive still sounds to me like the best bet. Use the sort
which allows a bit of positional adjustment before it grabs.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 01/08/2015 09:18, Tim Lamb wrote:
I know this has been covered (currently *tile hall thread*) but...

Elderly David Brown tractor fitted with Q cab and hence sound reducing
lining.

The lining is a flexible sandwich of Elephant hide vinyl over about 6mm
of foam backed with some sort of fabric inner.

The problem is choosing the most suitable adhesive to re-fix. The area
is approaching 1m2 over the curved inner surface of the metal mudguards.

40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

I would be tempted to try double sided adhesive carpet tape. That is
very powerful and won't migrate into the foam, as some adhesives might.

--
Colin Bignell

In message , "Nightjar
cpb" "insert my surname writes
On 01/08/2015 09:18, Tim Lamb wrote:
I know this has been covered (currently *tile hall thread*) but...

Elderly David Brown tractor fitted with Q cab and hence sound reducing
lining.

The lining is a flexible sandwich of Elephant hide vinyl over about 6mm
of foam backed with some sort of fabric inner.

The problem is choosing the most suitable adhesive to re-fix. The area
is approaching 1m2 over the curved inner surface of the metal mudguards.

40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

I would be tempted to try double sided adhesive carpet tape. That is
very powerful and won't migrate into the foam, as some adhesives might.

No direct contact with the foam as there is an inner fabric (woven
terylene?). I suppose shortish strips would overcome curved surface
issues.

Damp and thermal cycling might be a consideration.


--
Tim Lamb

On 01/08/2015 11:04, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , "Nightjar
cpb" "insert my surname writes
On 01/08/2015 09:18, Tim Lamb wrote:
I know this has been covered (currently *tile hall thread*) but...

Elderly David Brown tractor fitted with Q cab and hence sound reducing
lining.

The lining is a flexible sandwich of Elephant hide vinyl over about 6mm
of foam backed with some sort of fabric inner.

The problem is choosing the most suitable adhesive to re-fix. The area
is approaching 1m2 over the curved inner surface of the metal mudguards.

40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

I would be tempted to try double sided adhesive carpet tape. That is
very powerful and won't migrate into the foam, as some adhesives might.

No direct contact with the foam as there is an inner fabric (woven
terylene?).

Fabric can allow liquids and vapours to pass through them.

I suppose shortish strips would overcome curved surface issues.

Damp and thermal cycling might be a consideration.

I've found it remarkably tenacious in a variety of situations, including
sticking things to a car trailer. If you try it and it doesn't work, it
won't stop you trying something else later.


--
Colin Bignell

In message , "Nightjar
cpb" "insert my surname writes
I would be tempted to try double sided adhesive carpet tape. That is
very powerful and won't migrate into the foam, as some adhesives might.

No direct contact with the foam as there is an inner fabric (woven
terylene?).

Fabric can allow liquids and vapours to pass through them.

I suppose shortish strips would overcome curved surface issues.

Damp and thermal cycling might be a consideration.

I've found it remarkably tenacious in a variety of situations,
including sticking things to a car trailer. If you try it and it
doesn't work, it won't stop you trying something else later.

OK. I have a part used roll somewhere and can try a test strip.



--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

I've found the current Evostick which uses a 'safer' solvent nothing like
as good as the original.

Is there another easily available brand which is better?

I liked the Lidl contact adhesive - but not seen that on offer for ages,
presumably for the same reason? Ie glue sniffers. ;-)

--
*With her marriage she got a new name and a dress.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

I've found the current Evostick which uses a 'safer' solvent nothing like
as good as the original.

Yes:-(

Is there another easily available brand which is better?

I liked the Lidl contact adhesive - but not seen that on offer for ages,
presumably for the same reason? Ie glue sniffers. ;-)

Under the counter job at B+Q! Went off in the tin and expensive for
size.


--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

I've found the current Evostick which uses a 'safer' solvent nothing like
as good as the original.

Yes:-(

Original product used Toluene as the solvent, which they are apparently
no longer permitted to use in the EU. ISTR someone here at the time used
lots of it in his woodwind instrument repair business (for fixing the cork
pads to the keys), suddenly noticed it stopped working, and asked them why.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 05/08/2015 22:10, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

I've found the current Evostick which uses a 'safer' solvent nothing like
as good as the original.

Yes:-(

Original product used Toluene as the solvent, which they are apparently
no longer permitted to use in the EU. ISTR someone here at the time used
lots of it in his woodwind instrument repair business (for fixing the cork
pads to the keys), suddenly noticed it stopped working, and asked them why.


I suspect the solvent free version of Gripfil is crap. On a recent job
it failed to stick any of the odds and ends you could rely on the
original product to do. I used it because the flat was being slept in
that night and the fumes from the solvent version are pretty strong.

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...

I know this has been covered (currently *tile hall thread*) but...

Elderly David Brown tractor fitted with Q cab and hence sound reducing
lining.

The lining is a flexible sandwich of Elephant hide vinyl over about 6mm of
foam backed with some sort of fabric inner.

The problem is choosing the most suitable adhesive to re-fix. The area is
approaching 1m2 over the curved inner surface of the metal mudguards.

40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces, allow
to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the best way
or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

Consider yourself fortunate that there's enough metal to stick anything back
to

Q cabs rust nicely round the windows and doors, and it's rare for the
mudguards to survive long as the door restraint usually gives up the ghost
and lets the door crash into the mudguard crushing them!

Andrew

In message , Andrew Mawson
writes
40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

Consider yourself fortunate that there's enough metal to stick anything
back to

Q cabs rust nicely round the windows and doors, and it's rare for the
mudguards to survive long as the door restraint usually gives up the
ghost and lets the door crash into the mudguard crushing them!

:-)

I have choice of two. 1210 built 1979 and a 1390 sometime in the '80's.
Both stored under cover when not in work so superficial rust only.

I am considering reducing the fleet to save on insurance. Sadly the 1390
is not suitable for my manual sprayer controls and does not have either
a locking or lifting hitch. The former being essential for my hedger.
--
Tim Lamb

On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 09:18:29 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/TX528/9

In message , Peter Parry
writes
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 09:18:29 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/TX528/9

Nearest stockist is down in Hampshire!



--
Tim Lamb

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message , Peter Parry
writes
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 09:18:29 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


40 years ago, I would simply apply contact Evostick to both surfaces,
allow to dry and then attach with a pressure roller. Is this still the
best way or..? Low foaming PU spray sounds easy...

http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/TX528/9

Nearest stockist is down in Hampshire!

Actually Amazon has lots and Screwfix do 2.5l!

--
Tim Lamb