This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy option many years ago was to place the CH header tank such that it will now have to be dismantled to get the cold water tank out, so it'll be probably two days without any heating. Not a good idea at his time of year!

The rate of dripping from the corrosion area in the main tank is very low - there's only a couple of cc's of water in the container under the drip point after 2 days, so I'm wondering if there's some way I could patch the area with something just to bridge me over over till April/May. My thinking would be to drain the tank down, dry the area with the hot air gun and then what - car underseal ?

Any suggestions would be well appreciated.

Rob

"robgraham" wrote in message
...
This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy option many years ago
was to place the CH header tank such that it will now have to be dismantled to get the
cold water tank out, so it'll be probably two days without any heating. Not a good idea
at his time of year!

The rate of dripping from the corrosion area in the main tank is very low - there's only
a couple of cc's of water in the container under the drip point after 2 days, so I'm
wondering if there's some way I could patch the area with something just to bridge me
over over till April/May. My thinking would be to drain the tank down, dry the area with
the hot air gun and then what - car underseal ?

Any suggestions would be well appreciated.

Rob

....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Pa...25.m3641.l6390

Its two part putty and can be applied to a wet leak.


michael adams

....

On Monday, 23 February 2015 12:50:35 UTC, michael adams wrote:
"robgraham" wrote in message
...
This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy
option many years ago was to place the CH header tank such that
it will now have to be dismantled to get the cold water tank out,
so it'll be probably two days without any heating. Not a good idea
at this time of year!
I'm wondering if there's some way I could patch the area with
something just to bridge me over over till April/May.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Pa...25.m3641.l6390

Its two part putty and can be applied to a wet leak.

Alternatively, my local builders merchant always has a video running
advertising CT1
http://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/000600010004
and this seems like a cheaper equivalent
http://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/000600010004

I'd certainly give one of those a try, and see if it slows the leak
enough.


michael adams

...

On 23/02/2015 13:02, Martin Bonner wrote:
On Monday, 23 February 2015 12:50:35 UTC, michael adams wrote:
"robgraham" wrote in message
...
This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy
option many years ago was to place the CH header tank such that
it will now have to be dismantled to get the cold water tank out,
so it'll be probably two days without any heating. Not a good idea
at this time of year!
I'm wondering if there's some way I could patch the area with
something just to bridge me over over till April/May.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Pa...25.m3641.l6390

Its two part putty and can be applied to a wet leak.

Alternatively, my local builders merchant always has a video running
advertising CT1
http://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/000600010004
and this seems like a cheaper equivalent
http://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/000600010004

I'd certainly give one of those a try, and see if it slows the leak
enough.


michael adams

...

I've only used the two part epoxy putty, available from many sources.
Very reliable and easy to use, that would definitely be my first port of
call. A similar repair lasted for many years on a copper tank, until I
replaced the whole system. I guess on steel you would need to wire brush
any loose rust / galvanizing.

On 23/02/2015 12:20, robgraham wrote:
This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy option many years ago was to place the CH header tank such that it will now have to be dismantled to get the cold water tank out, so it'll be probably two days without any heating. Not a good idea at his time of year!

The rate of dripping from the corrosion area in the main tank is very low - there's only a couple of cc's of water in the container under the drip point after 2 days, so I'm wondering if there's some way I could patch the area with something just to bridge me over over till April/May. My thinking would be to drain the tank down, dry the area with the hot air gun and then what - car underseal ?

Any suggestions would be well appreciated.

You could line it with a sand and cement mix. That is carried by some
yachts as an emergency repair material; it sets by chemical reaction and
is quite happy to do so underwater.

--
Colin Bignell

On 23/02/2015 12:20, robgraham wrote:
This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy option many years ago was to place the CH header tank such that it will now have to be dismantled to get the cold water tank out, so it'll be probably two days without any heating. Not a good idea at his time of year!

The rate of dripping from the corrosion area in the main tank is very low - there's only a couple of cc's of water in the container under the drip point after 2 days, so I'm wondering if there's some way I could patch the area with something just to bridge me over over till April/May. My thinking would be to drain the tank down, dry the area with the hot air gun and then what - car underseal ?

Any suggestions would be well appreciated.

Rob




Providing you can get it dry on the inside, I'd coat the affected area
with epoxy resin - possibly combined with a sheet of fibreglass matting
- as used for car body repairs. I successfully mended a rusting car
petrol tank by this method many years ago (except that, in my case, I
put the stuff on the outside).
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Many moons ago our tank was like this in December, a drain down and a large
sheet of plastic, like a heavy duty dust sheet was put into the tank and
taped over the edges. Ok it looked weird, but it held till we had warmer sn
weather. Take care is a very loose fit and only tape when full.
Bodgers R Us.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"robgraham" wrote in message
...
This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy option many
years ago was to place the CH header tank such that it will now have to be
dismantled to get the cold water tank out, so it'll be probably two days
without any heating. Not a good idea at his time of year!

The rate of dripping from the corrosion area in the main tank is very low -
there's only a couple of cc's of water in the container under the drip point
after 2 days, so I'm wondering if there's some way I could patch the area
with something just to bridge me over over till April/May. My thinking
would be to drain the tank down, dry the area with the hot air gun and then
what - car underseal ?

Any suggestions would be well appreciated.

Rob

On Tuesday, February 24, 2015 at 9:26:57 AM UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:
Many moons ago our tank was like this in December, a drain down and a large
sheet of plastic, like a heavy duty dust sheet was put into the tank and
taped over the edges. Ok it looked weird, but it held till we had warmer sn
weather. Take care is a very loose fit and only tape when full.
Bodgers R Us.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"robgraham" wrote in message
...
This relates to the previous loft tank post, but another option.

Apart from the problem of finding a tank that will fit, the easy option many
years ago was to place the CH header tank such that it will now have to be
dismantled to get the cold water tank out, so it'll be probably two days
without any heating. Not a good idea at his time of year!

The rate of dripping from the corrosion area in the main tank is very low -
there's only a couple of cc's of water in the container under the drip point
after 2 days, so I'm wondering if there's some way I could patch the area
with something just to bridge me over over till April/May. My thinking
would be to drain the tank down, dry the area with the hot air gun and then
what - car underseal ?

Any suggestions would be well appreciated.

Rob

Many thanks guys - some useful suggestions there, but I'm reckoning that there might be just enough space to get the existing tank out of its hole and under the CH header tank. I might have to cut one of the roof ties but that's less of a hassle to sort out than fighting with the CH tank.

Interestingly enough a good web searching found that suppliers of plastic tanks don't necessarily advertise all the sizes, and I have found a 42 gallon one from a mainstream supplier.

Rob

robgraham wrote:
The rate of dripping from the corrosion area in the main tank is very
low - there's only a couple of cc's of water in the container under
the drip point after 2 days, so I'm wondering if there's some way I
could patch the area with something just to bridge me over over till
April/May.

If the pinhole is in a flat area then the fastest way is drill a hole
through it and fit a nut and bolt with a rubber tap washer and a couple of
steel washers to spread the load. Slap some silicone sealant on everything
and leave to set for 24 hours to make double sure. If the leak is on a
corner then not so easy.
--
Dave Baker

I'd go with Dave's idea the washers you need are called repair washers and are far bigger than normal washers. One of the problems with pin holes in metal tanks is that the hole is just the point the corrosion has worked all the way through, inside the area of corrosion will larger and the area around the hole can be quite fragile, so care needs to be taken.

Richard

On 24/02/2015 16:31, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I'd go with Dave's idea the washers you need are called repair washers and are far bigger than normal washers. One of the problems with pin holes in metal tanks is that the hole is just the point the corrosion has worked all the way through, inside the area of corrosion will larger and the area around the hole can be quite fragile, so care needs to be taken.


I like the idea of lining it with a big sheet of heavy duty (DPC?)
plastic. Simple, easy and unlikely to trigger a larger leak.

--
Colin Bignell

On 24/02/2015 17:21, Nightjar cpb@ wrote:
On 24/02/2015 16:31, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I'd go with Dave's idea the washers you need are called repair washers
and are far bigger than normal washers. One of the problems with pin
holes in metal tanks is that the hole is just the point the corrosion
has worked all the way through, inside the area of corrosion will
larger and the area around the hole can be quite fragile, so care
needs to be taken.


I like the idea of lining it with a big sheet of heavy duty (DPC?)
plastic. Simple, easy and unlikely to trigger a larger leak.


Except that I'm not sure how you get the water out of the outlet pipe at
the bottom of the tank.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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On 24/02/2015 19:46, Roger Mills wrote:
On 24/02/2015 17:21, Nightjar cpb@ wrote:
On 24/02/2015 16:31, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I'd go with Dave's idea the washers you need are called repair washers
and are far bigger than normal washers. One of the problems with pin
holes in metal tanks is that the hole is just the point the corrosion
has worked all the way through, inside the area of corrosion will
larger and the area around the hole can be quite fragile, so care
needs to be taken.


I like the idea of lining it with a big sheet of heavy duty (DPC?)
plastic. Simple, easy and unlikely to trigger a larger leak.


Except that I'm not sure how you get the water out of the outlet pipe at
the bottom of the tank.

That is the one problem with the idea. It does assume that you can undo
the pipe connector and refit it through a carefully made hole in the
plastic, which may not be true if it has been in place for too long.

--
Colin Bignell

On 24/02/2015 13:44, Dave Baker wrote:


If the pinhole is in a flat area then the fastest way is drill a hole
through it and fit a nut and bolt with a rubber tap washer and a couple
of steel washers to spread the load.

Ah, there's a bit more nostalgia! When I was a kid you used to be able
to buy kettle repair kits which were just like that. I think they used
thin cork discs under the washers.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
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