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#1
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Wiki: PIR
First draft for feedback...
NT '''Choosing a PIR security light''' ==Power== Fittings with excessively bright lights aren't unusual, especially with halogen lamps. 118mm linear halogens can be had in a range of powers, but 80w is more than is ideal for a percentage of cases. ==Bulb type== Filament lamps occasionally arc over when they blow, killing triac type PIR units. They're low energy efficiency, but aren't on much time in total, so run cost is minimal. Halogen/xenon capsules inside GLS bulbs do the triac death trick much more frequently. CFLs are unsuitable for PIRs unless specifically designed for them. Ordinary CFLs have very low output in cold weather, with frequent switching they have short lives, and since they're always in warming up mode the energy efficiency is not good in winter time. CFLs and triac fittings aren't compatible (though you can use CFLs plus one small filament lamp). LEDs are a good choice where they provide enough light, though they have their pitfalls, mainly the poor colour of some white LEDs, and for some situations bulb theft risk. Some fittings come with non-replaceable LEDs, these of course are bound to need replacement at some point; the user may find their lifetime fine if the unit doesn't stay on long. Linear halogen are very prone to excess brightness and severe glare. Tenants can be confused about which replacement bulb to get and don't know how to fit them, making them not maintained in rental properties. Some fittings only take one bulb type. Fittings designed for filament lamps can take a wide range, typically including filament, halogen capsule, CFL, LED, and even oddities like carbon & neon lamps. ==Relay v triac== Some PIRs switch the light with a triac, some with a relay. Relays make a quiet click, triacs are silent. Triacs are vulnerable to being killed by the various types of filament lamp, including halogen. ==Reflectors types== Bright metal reflectors send light in a specific direction, good for when you want a limited angle of illumination. White reflectors send light every which way, and give a softer appearance. Good for short range illumination. Grey reflectors have been spotted! Needless to say these are a daft choice. Painting them white can improve light output per power used. Many fittings send light skyward. That's energy you pay for wasted. Many fittings have an interior that's partially black plastic, wasting light. This is true of a lot of Victorian coach style fittings. Painting white or lining with aluminium can improve light output per power in. Coach style lights put a lot of light out behind them. Replacing or lining 1-3 rear glass panels with aluminium can reduce the bulb power needed. Fizzy drink cans provide free aluminium that's easy to work. ==Glass v polycarbonate== Glass can be shattered by vandals, or with globes by tightening the fixing screws. Polycarbonate is tougher, but goes cloudy eventually and can be burnt by vandals. ==Relamping== Fittings are a lot more likely to get relamped if its easy. Unless you need to for extra security, don't mount the fitting too high, and pick one that's easy to open and uses bulbs that are easy to find. Steel screws in cast ali fittings are a recipe for corrosion, making relamping very difficult. Sometimes such screws can be replaced with a wire tie. ==Number & position of lights== 2 or more lights creates a much more pleasing to the eye appearance than just one. It also means there's still light when one bulb is dead. Its normally better to place lights where they illuminate the visitor's face and don't illuminate the person indoors. Doing the opposite makes seeing people outside very difficult. ==Controls== Some PIRs have no controls at all. IMLE it is unwise to assume the presets are reasonable. ==Range & position== The claimed detection range is normally for a person in full view walking across the field of vision. People walking toward the fitting aren't detected so easily. Sun shining into a lamp's detector reduces detection ability. Some won't work usefully in this situation, some do. Some fittings are sold specifically for short range detection. Useful where an entrance is close to the street. ==Synchronising lamps== With a lot of fittings its easy to connect an external fitting that's also controlled by the internal PIR. Its also possible to have 2 PIR fittings with the slave line commoned so that both light when either detects a visitor. ==Extra modes== There's some tendency for PIRs to need adjusting years later, and they often have a walk test mode. Keep the instructions for when you need to do this.. Many also have a mode or 2 entered by operating the lightswitch repeatedly. Needless to say these modes are more often an annoyance than useful. Switching power off to the fitting for a couple of minutes resets them. ==Dimming fittings== These can literally cost thousands of pounds in wasted electricity. Running a fitting that keeps a filament or halogen lamp on all night in dimmed mode is a truly poor idea. There are much better ways to provide all night low level lighting if its what you want. ==Fitting syles== A few warrant specific functionality comments. Coach lamp type fittings can benefit from replacing or lining some glass panels with ali, ditto the lid on black units. These can be chosen to deliberately control where light goes, eg to avoid annoying a neighbour or bedroom.. There's no need to use an all-in-one PIR fitting. Standalone PIR detectors can be used with any type of fitting that suits the situation, giving a very wide range of choices. [[Category:Lighting]] |
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#2
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Wiki: PIR
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#4
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Wiki: PIR
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#5
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Wiki: PIR
Latest...
NT '''Choosing a PIR security light''' ==Power== Fittings with excessively bright [[light]]s aren't unusual, especially with [[halogen]] lamps. 118mm linear halogens can be had in a range of powers, but 80w is more than is ideal for a percentage of cases. Power required depends on circumstances and desired light level. The following is just a rough starting point: * Terraced house close to road 40w * Small terraced back garden 60w * Semi set back from road 100w * Large area 100w - 1kw if mounted high enough. ==Bulb type== [[Filament lamp]]s occasionally arc over when they blow, killing triac type PIR units. They're low [[energy efficiency]], but aren't on much time in total, so run cost is minimal. Halogen/xenon capsules inside GLS bulbs do the triac death trick much more frequently. [[CFL]]s are unsuitable for PIRs unless specifically designed for them. Ordinary CFLs have very low output in cold weather, with frequent switching they have short lives, and since they're always in warming up mode the energy efficiency is not good in winter time. CFLs and triac fittings aren't compatible (though you can use CFLs plus one small filament lamp). [[LED]]s are a good choice where they provide enough [[light]], though they have their pitfalls, mainly the poor colour of some white LEDs, and for some situations bulb theft risk. Some fittings come with non-replaceable LEDs; lifetime should be fine if it doesn't stay on too long. * 3 minutes 10x a day = 180 hours a year ** 25,000 hour life would give 138 years life * 12 hours a night = 4380hrs/year ** 25,000 hour life would give 5.7 years life Linear [[halogen]] are very prone to excess brightness and severe glare. Tenants can be confused about which of the various similar replacement bulbs to get and don't know how to fit them, making them not always maintained in rental properties. Some fittings only take one bulb type. Fittings designed for [[filament lamp]]s can take a wide range, typically including [[filament]], [[halogen]] capsule, [[CFL]], [[LED]], and even oddities like carbon & [[neon]] lamps. ==Relay v triac== Some PIRs switch the light with a triac, some with a relay. Relays make a quiet click, triacs are silent. Triacs are vulnerable to being killed by the various types of [[filament lamp]], including [[halogen]]. ==Reflectors types== Bright metal reflectors send [[light]] in a specific direction, good for when you want a limited angle of illumination. White reflectors send light every which way, and give a softer appearance. Good for short range illumination. Grey reflectors have been spotted! Needless to say these are a daft choice. [[Paint]]ing them white improves light output per power used. Many fittings send light skyward. That's energy you pay for wasted. Many fittings have large areas of black interior, wasting light. This is true of a lot of Victorian coach style fittings. [[Paint]]ing white or lining with aluminium can improve light output per power in. Coach style lights put a lot of light out behind them. Replacing or lining 1-3 rear [[glass]] panels with aluminium can reduce the bulb power needed. Fizzy drink cans provide free aluminium that's easy to work. Folding the ali over double conceals the painted side. ==Glass v polycarbonate== [[Glass]] can be shattered by vandals, or with globes by tightening the fixing [[screws]]. Polycarbonate is tougher, but goes cloudy eventually and can be burnt by vandals. ==Relamping== Fittings are a lot more likely to get relamped if its easy. Unless you need to for extra [[security]], don't mount the fitting too high, and pick one that's easy to open and uses bulbs that are easy to find. Steel [[screws]] in cast ali fittings are a recipe for corrosion, making relamping very difficult. Sometimes such screws can be replaced with a [[wire]] tie, or lubricate them. ==Number & position of lights== 2 or more lights creates a much more pleasing appearance than just one. It also means there's still light when one bulb is dead. Its normally better to place lights where they illuminate the visitor's face and don't illuminate the person indoors. Doing the opposite makes seeing people outside very difficult. ==Controls== Some PIRs have no controls at all. IMLE its unwise to assume the presets are reasonable. ==Range & position== The claimed detection range is normally for a person in full view walking across the field of vision. People walking toward the fitting aren't detected so easily. Sun shining into a lamp's detector reduces detection ability. Some won't work usefully in this situation, some do. Some fittings are sold specifically for short range detection. Useful where an entrance is close to the street. ==Synchronising lamps== With a lot of fittings its easy to connect an external fitting that's also controlled by the internal PIR. Its also possible to have 2 PIR fittings with the slave line commoned so that both light when either detects a visitor. ==Extra modes== There's some tendency for PIRs to need adjusting years later, and they often have a walk test mode. Keep the instructions for when you need to do this.. Many also have a mode or 2 entered by operating the lightswitch repeatedly. Needless to say these modes are more often an annoyance than useful. Switching power off to the fitting for a couple of minutes resets them. ==Dimming fittings== These can literally cost thousands of pounds in wasted electricity. Running a fitting that keeps a filament or halogen lamp on all night in [[Dimmer|dimmed]] mode is a truly poor idea. There are much better ways to provide all night low level lighting if its what you want. ==Fitting syles== A few warrant specific functionality comments. Coach lamp type fittings can benefit from replacing or lining some glass panels with ali, ditto the lid on black units. Panes can be filled to deliberately control where light goes, eg to avoid annoying a neighbour or bedroom.. There's no need to use an all-in-one PIR fitting. Standalone PIR detectors can be used with any type of fitting that suits the situation, giving a very wide range of choices. ==Quality== Varies greatly. Some brands we like: And some criticisms: * Argos, grey plastic reflector ==Large areas== These are not effectively lit by a single [[light]] 7-8' up, no matter what its power. Options for large area lighting a Multiple fittings to distribute light 1 or 2 fittings mounted very high. Sometimes one can be put in reach of a top floor [[window]] for relamping. ==Nuisance== Outdoor lights and especially PIR lights should not shine directly onto road traffic. Local authorities can sometimes object where this occurs, mainly with high power fittings. Light shining into a neighbouring house can be annoying. Observatories are affected by fittings that light up the sky. Fittings that cut off all upward light are used in some areas. ==Alternatives== The main alternatives to PIR fittings: Photocell or timer with high energy efficieny light eg [[sodium]] Beam break detectors are seldom used now. Not affected by movement outside of the beam. [[Category:Lighting]] [[Category:Security]] |
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#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wiki: PIR
On 12/11/2014 12:08, wrote:
Latest... NT '''Choosing a PIR security light''' Needs an intro to explain what a PIR light is... and why you might want one. Not sure I would limit the application just to "security" though, it can be as much about convenience, or safety. (Much of this article is really about outside lighting in general, rather than PIR specifically) ==Power== Fittings with excessively bright [[light]]s aren't unusual, especially with [[halogen]] lamps. 118mm linear halogens can be had in a range of powers, but 80w is more than is ideal for a percentage of cases. Power required depends on circumstances and desired light level. The following is just a rough starting point: * Terraced house close to road 40w * Small terraced back garden 60w * Semi set back from road 100w * Large area 100w - 1kw if mounted high enough. I agree that people often go OTT on power - the height of the lamp is one of the real keys. However you also need to consider what you need the light for. Walking safely from one place to another in complete darkness needs far less light than illuminating a space so that you can carry out a task in the light. So walking safely to the dustbin at night requires far less light, than that required for sorting rubbish into the right dustbin when you get there! ==Bulb type== [[Filament lamp]]s occasionally arc over when they blow, killing triac type PIR units. They're low [[energy efficiency]], but aren't on much time in total, so run cost is minimal. Halogen/xenon capsules inside GLS bulbs do the triac death trick much more frequently. You seem to be assuming people know what a triac is before you get to the section... [[CFL]]s are unsuitable for PIRs unless specifically designed for them. Ordinary CFLs have very low output in cold weather, with frequent switching they have short lives, and since they're always in warming up mode the energy efficiency is not good in winter time. CFLs and triac fittings aren't compatible (though you can use CFLs plus one small filament lamp). That seems to be limited to the kind of PIR that acts as a light switch replacement. Any with a L & N feed would be fine switching a CFL, [[LED]]s are a good choice where they provide enough [[light]], though they have their pitfalls, mainly the poor colour of some white LEDs, and for some situations bulb theft risk. Some fittings come with non-replaceable LEDs; lifetime should be fine if it doesn't stay on too long. * 3 minutes 10x a day = 180 hours a year ** 25,000 hour life would give 138 years life * 12 hours a night = 4380hrs/year ** 25,000 hour life would give 5.7 years life Linear [[halogen]] are very prone to excess brightness and severe glare. Tenants can be confused about which of the various similar replacement bulbs to get and don't know how to fit them, making them not always maintained in rental properties. Some fittings only take one bulb type. Fittings designed for [[filament lamp]]s can take a wide range, typically including [[filament]], [[halogen]] capsule, [[CFL]], [[LED]], and even oddities like carbon & [[neon]] lamps. ==Relay v triac== Some PIRs switch the light with a triac, some with a relay. Relays make a quiet click, triacs are silent. Triacs are vulnerable to being killed by the various types of [[filament lamp]], including [[halogen]]. Might be worth mentioning that the max power handling is usually a good indication of the kind of switching element if all you have to go on is what it says on the box. e.g. max load 150W - probably tirac, max load 1kW relay... ==Reflectors types== Bright metal reflectors send [[light]] in a specific direction, good for when you want a limited angle of illumination. White reflectors send light every which way, and give a softer appearance. Good for short range illumination. Grey reflectors have been spotted! Needless to say these are a daft choice. [[Paint]]ing them white improves light output per power used. Many fittings send light skyward. That's energy you pay for wasted. Many fittings have large areas of black interior, wasting light. This is true of a lot of Victorian coach style fittings. [[Paint]]ing white or lining with aluminium can improve light output per power in. Coach style lights put a lot of light out behind them. Replacing or lining 1-3 rear [[glass]] panels with aluminium can reduce the bulb power needed. Fizzy drink cans provide free aluminium that's easy to work. Folding the ali over double conceals the painted side. Much depends on the colour of the wall they are mounted on... ==Glass v polycarbonate== [[Glass]] can be shattered by vandals, or with globes by tightening the fixing [[screws]]. Polycarbonate is tougher, but goes cloudy eventually and can be burnt by vandals. ==Relamping== Fittings are a lot more likely to get relamped if its easy. Unless you need to for extra [[security]], don't mount the fitting too high, and pick one that's easy to open and uses bulbs that are easy to find. Steel [[screws]] in cast ali fittings are a recipe for corrosion, making relamping very difficult. Sometimes such screws can be replaced with a [[wire]] tie, or lubricate them. ==Number & position of lights== 2 or more lights creates a much more pleasing appearance than just one. It also means there's still light when one bulb is dead. Its normally better to place lights where they illuminate the visitor's face and don't illuminate the person indoors. Doing the opposite makes seeing people outside very difficult. ==Controls== Some PIRs have no controls at all. IMLE its unwise to assume the presets are reasonable. ==Range & position== The claimed detection range is normally for a person in full view walking across the field of vision. People walking toward the fitting aren't detected so easily. Sun shining into a lamp's detector reduces detection ability. Some won't work usefully in this situation, some do. Some fittings are sold specifically for short range detection. Useful where an entrance is close to the street. ==Synchronising lamps== With a lot of fittings its easy to connect an external fitting that's also controlled by the internal PIR. Its also possible to have 2 PIR fittings with the slave line commoned so that both light when either detects a visitor. You could link to the diagrams on the two way switching article that show this. ==Extra modes== There's some tendency for PIRs to need adjusting years later, and they often have a walk test mode. Keep the instructions for when you need to do this. Many also have a mode or 2 entered by operating the lightswitch repeatedly. Needless to say these modes are more often an annoyance than useful. Switching power off to the fitting for a couple of minutes resets them. ==Dimming fittings== These can literally cost thousands of pounds in wasted electricity. Running a fitting that keeps a filament or halogen lamp on all night in [[Dimmer|dimmed]] mode is a truly poor idea. There are much better ways to provide all night low level lighting if its what you want. Might it not be simpler to say that running a filament lamp in dimmed mode will cost nearly as much as it would cost to run full on for the same duration. Its not up to a wiki article to decide if this is good or bad. (some dimming fittings contain two lamps, and in effect behave as a switch bank - one lit via a dusk to dawn sensor, the other brought in by PIR) ==Fitting syles== A few warrant specific functionality comments. Coach lamp type fittings can benefit from replacing or lining some glass panels with ali, ditto the lid on black units. Panes can be filled to deliberately control where light goes, eg to avoid annoying a neighbour or bedroom. This is repeated from higher up. There's no need to use an all-in-one PIR fitting. Standalone PIR detectors can be used with any type of fitting that suits the situation, giving a very wide range of choices. I would make that a bit more prominent in the article. In fact in many cases having the PIR remote from the lamp(s) it controls is preferable. ==Quality== Varies greatly. Some brands we like: And some criticisms: * Argos, grey plastic reflector ==Large areas== These are not effectively lit by a single [[light]] 7-8' up, no matter what its power. Options for large area lighting a Multiple fittings to distribute light 1 or 2 fittings mounted very high. Sometimes one can be put in reach of a top floor [[window]] for relamping. ==Nuisance== Outdoor lights and especially PIR lights should not shine directly onto road traffic. Local authorities can sometimes object where this occurs, mainly with high power fittings. Light shining into a neighbouring house can be annoying. Observatories are affected by fittings that light up the sky. Fittings that cut off all upward light are used in some areas. ==Alternatives== The main alternatives to PIR fittings: Photocell or timer with high energy efficieny light eg [[sodium]] Beam break detectors are seldom used now. Not affected by movement outside of the beam. [[Category:Lighting]] [[Category:Security]] -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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#7
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Wiki: PIR
On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 2:04:21 PM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
Needs an intro to explain what a PIR light is... and why you might want one. big snip Lovely, will find a tuit of any shape some time soon NT |
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