I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)




--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 09:43:00 GMT, lid
(Windmill) wrote:

I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)




Reciprocating saw, something like
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...saw-240v/17639
tho you may find something cheaper if you only need it for this job.

Davidm writes:

On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 09:43:00 GMT, lid
(Windmill) wrote:

I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)




Reciprocating saw, something like
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...saw-240v/17639
tho you may find something cheaper if you only need it for this job.

Thanks; hadn't thought of that possibility so I'll take a look.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

"Windmill" wrote in message
...
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Best way is probably a circular saw with the depth of cut set to just a
smidge under 10mm. Then make hundreds of cuts a few mm apart and use a razor
sharp chisel to remove the kerf just as you would in a mortice and tenon
joint. Sand the remaining surface and it should be as flat as makes no odds.
--
Dave Baker

On 10/11/2014 12:42, Dave Baker wrote:

"Windmill" wrote in message
...
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Best way is probably a circular saw with the depth of cut set to just a
smidge under 10mm. Then make hundreds of cuts a few mm apart and use a
razor sharp chisel to remove the kerf just as you would in a mortice and
tenon joint. Sand the remaining surface and it should be as flat as
makes no odds.

+1

I would check if the uprights are needed. If the lintel above the opening goes onto the brickwork either side of the opening then the two uprights serve no other purpose than to narrow the gap and could be removed giving you plenty of space. Get a structural engineer to eyeball it if you are unsure. Removing them is a much simpler option than trying to reduce their thickness in situ.

Richard

Tricky Dicky writes:

I would check if the uprights are needed. If the lintel above the opening g=
oes onto the brickwork either side of the opening then the two uprights ser=
ve no other purpose than to narrow the gap and could be removed giving you =
plenty of space. Get a structural engineer to eyeball it if you are unsure.=
Removing them is a much simpler option than trying to reduce their thickn=
ess in situ.

Removal is something I'd be reluctant to attempt myself, and I'm hoping
to trade my time for the cost of employing others.
I doubt if the uprights support much; internally the house uses load
bearing brick walls where strength is needed.
The doorway is in a corner so one upright is against one brick wall,
but the other upright, although also against a brick wall, may be
supporting the lintel.
I'd need to strip some plaster to find out for certain (and plastering
isn't one of my skills).


--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

"Dave Baker" writes:


"Windmill" wrote in message
...
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Best way is probably a circular saw with the depth of cut set to just a
smidge under 10mm. Then make hundreds of cuts a few mm apart and use a razor
sharp chisel to remove the kerf just as you would in a mortice and tenon
joint. Sand the remaining surface and it should be as flat as makes no odds.

I burned out my lightweight circular saw using a metal cutting disc on
a garden gate, so ATM I only have a heavy LIDL special (but it could be
a good excuse to buy a replacement).

Would there be much kickback, do you think? There could be knots, and
though narrow the doorway is 6'6" high so I'd be holding the saw well
above me.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

lid (Windmill) wrote:

Would there be much kickback, do you think? There could be knots, and
though narrow the doorway is 6'6" high so I'd be holding the saw well
above me.

That sounds pretty unsafe. If I were doing this I'd try to be standing on
something stable that's high enough that (assuming I wasn't banging my head
on the ceiling) I could use the tool at chest or waist height, in front of
me rather than above me. If you have to use a power tool above you, wear a
hard hat. Think about a mask etc if the dust etc coming off might blind
you.

--
Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own.

Email sent to my from-address will be deleted. Instead, please reply
to replacing "aaa" by "284".

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)





A power planer is pretty fast, as long as it does not encounter too many
nails or screws!

And an angle grinder with coarse sanding disk is a close second. Not
that I would suggest this for the whole job on account of the dust, but
they can be used quite surgically to get into corners.

On 10/11/2014 13:07, newshound wrote:
On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)





A power planer is pretty fast, as long as it does not encounter too many
nails or screws!

Wont touch the last few inches either way.

And an angle grinder with coarse sanding disk is a close second. Not
that I would suggest this for the whole job on account of the dust, but
they can be used quite surgically to get into corners.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

newshound writes:

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)





A power planer is pretty fast, as long as it does not encounter too many
nails or screws!

Maybe mine isn't too good. I used it last on the top edge of a door
which had warped (or the building had) and it took a long time (and set
off the fire alarm). Removing 10mm. with it might be slow. SO far I'm
just weighing my options, but at some point I'm going to have to get
stuck in and see what works.

And an angle grinder with coarse sanding disk is a close second. Not
that I would suggest this for the whole job on account of the dust, but
they can be used quite surgically to get into corners.

I had thought of a multi tool for that part of the work, but an A/G is
an option I hadn't considered; maybe I should.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Quicker than a *power* planer? Nope.

GB writes:

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Quicker than a *power* planer? Nope.

Mine didn't seem fast when I last used it. Needs new blades maybe?


--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

In message , Windmill
writes
GB writes:

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Quicker than a *power* planer? Nope.

Mine didn't seem fast when I last used it. Needs new blades maybe?


Probably, I've got a cheapy one I got from Homebase some years ago,
seems plenty fast enough to me.

It will take of a couple of mm in one pass quite happily.
--
Chris French

On 11/11/2014 12:42, Chris French wrote:
In message , Windmill
writes
GB writes:

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Quicker than a *power* planer? Nope.

Mine didn't seem fast when I last used it. Needs new blades maybe?

On my one, the blades are double sides. Whip them out, turn them round,
and you have a new edge.

And I agree with Chris - a couple of mm in a single pass. So, this would
be a quick job, then tidy up the ends, where the planer won't reach.





Probably, I've got a cheapy one I got from Homebase some years ago,
seems plenty fast enough to me.

It will take of a couple of mm in one pass quite happily.

Chris French writes:

In message , Windmill
writes
GB writes:

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Quicker than a *power* planer? Nope.

Mine didn't seem fast when I last used it. Needs new blades maybe?


Probably, I've got a cheapy one I got from Homebase some years ago,
seems plenty fast enough to me.

It will take of a couple of mm in one pass quite happily.

That sounds reassuring. Pretty soon I'll need to get started and see
what works with what I have in the way of tools.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

On 11/11/2014 19:28, Windmill wrote:

That sounds reassuring. Pretty soon I'll need to get started and see
what works with what I have in the way of tools.


I suppose that you really do do need to do this? I know that the gap is
60 cm plus a smidgen, but quite a lot of appliances that are nominally
60 cm are actually something like 59 cm. It is just that you were
worried about getting appliances through the gap? Have you tried them?

Windmill wrote:
Chris writes:

In , Windmill
writes
writes:

On 10/11/2014 09:43, Windmill wrote:

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Quicker than a *power* planer? Nope.

Mine didn't seem fast when I last used it. Needs new blades maybe?


Probably, I've got a cheapy one I got from Homebase some years ago,
seems plenty fast enough to me.

It will take of a couple of mm in one pass quite happily.

That sounds reassuring. Pretty soon I'll need to get started and see
what works with what I have in the way of tools.


Using a 3 inch small circular saw with depth adjustment, Lidl type this
is no problem.

In article , Windmill
writes
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Got a router? 30 odd mm flat faced bit, make 3 x 3mm passes.

Use smooth battens fixed either side of the framing pieces to stop it
cobbling about as material is removed.

Finish the closest bits to the top frame & floor with a hand saw and
uber sharp chisel for smoothness.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

fred writes:

In article , Windmill
writes
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

Got a router? 30 odd mm flat faced bit, make 3 x 3mm passes.

Use smooth battens fixed either side of the framing pieces to stop it
cobbling about as material is removed.

Finish the closest bits to the top frame & floor with a hand saw and
uber sharp chisel for smoothness.

Sounds good. I'm not much with a router (only used to set U-shaped
metal straps into floorboards someone cut between joists) but I can get
better.

Probably I'll need to combine several methods.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

On 10/11/14 09:43, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

router is able to cut more than a planer with a single pass.

But this is a job where you simply assign an afternoon to it and get
going with whatever tools you have.







--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 10/11/2014 15:10, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/14 09:43, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

router is able to cut more than a planer with a single pass.

But this is a job where you simply assign an afternoon to it and get
going with whatever tools you have.








I'd prefer the router. Don't like planing across the grain. Circ saw a
bit too bulky to be doing that many 3mm cuts

stuart noble writes:

On 10/11/2014 15:10, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/14 09:43, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

router is able to cut more than a planer with a single pass.

But this is a job where you simply assign an afternoon to it and get
going with whatever tools you have.








I'd prefer the router. Don't like planing across the grain. Circ saw a
bit too bulky to be doing that many 3mm cuts

I was tending towards that way of thinking.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

On 10/11/2014 17:17, stuart noble wrote:


I'd prefer the router. Don't like planing across the grain. Circ saw a
bit too bulky to be doing that many 3mm cuts

Unless . . . this is any good?

http://snipurl.com/29fbp4c
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 11/11/2014 11:46, Roger Mills wrote:
On 10/11/2014 17:17, stuart noble wrote:


I'd prefer the router. Don't like planing across the grain. Circ saw a
bit too bulky to be doing that many 3mm cuts

Unless . . . this is any good?

http://snipurl.com/29fbp4c

Yes, if you're buying a tool specially for the job, this would be a good
bet.
I did a similar thing with an edge trimmer (a small belt driven router)
but only because I had one lying around. The advantage was it got very
close to the edges and was lightweight compared to a proper router

The Natural Philosopher writes:

On 10/11/14 09:43, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)

router is able to cut more than a planer with a single pass.

But this is a job where you simply assign an afternoon to it and get
going with whatever tools you have.

Yes, I've been reluctant to begin until I've asked here and mulled
over the various options.


--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

On Monday, November 10, 2014 12:17:59 PM UTC, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.


Aren't most '600mm wide' appliances rather less than 600mm deep? They would fit through sideways?

Robert

RobertL wrote:
On Monday, November 10, 2014 12:17:59 PM UTC, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative
wood I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built
well long ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't
really leave clearance for 600mm wide appliances.


Aren't most '600mm wide' appliances rather less than 600mm deep?
They would fit through sideways?

I've not measured but I reckon that most aren't far off square. Washing
machines often favour particularly bulbous doors that might actually
make them deeper than wide.

If it was me, I'd be in there and open it up to the full 2'6" - but I
seem to make a pastime of colliding with doorframes!!!

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

RobertL writes:

On Monday, November 10, 2014 12:17:59 PM UTC, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.


Aren't most '600mm wide' appliances rather less than 600mm deep? They would fit through sideways?

Well yes. 595 mm nominal is less than 600 ;-)



--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

RobertL writes:

On Monday, November 10, 2014 12:17:59 PM UTC, Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.


Aren't most '600mm wide' appliances rather less than 600mm deep? They
would fit through sideways?

Yes, but with protrusions some are 600mm as described in their
specifications. (Sideways can be worse.)
The other thing is that there are no right angles nor level floors in a
house of this age, and with a doorway 6-1/4" = 158mm. deep and 600mm.
wide it would be only too easy to get something wedged in the doorway.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

Windmill wrote:
I have a doorway which was 23" wide. By removing the decorative wood
I've exposed two hefty uprights, 6-1/4" x 2-1/2" (they built well long
ago), and the doorway width is now 608mm. which doesn't really leave
clearance for 600mm wide appliances.

So I'd like to take about 10mm off each of those uprights, reducing the
2-1/2" to about 2-1/8". This is just the doorway into what would once
have been called a scullery so beauty doesn't matter, though it'll look
OK after the uprights have been sanded, nail holes filled, and painted.

But a power planer might be a slow way to remove wood.

And removing the uprights for sawing would be difficult and would cause
a lot of damage.

Can anyone suggest something quicker than planing? (No, not an angle
grinder!)





Fein Multimaster, or equivalent.

/
Fein Multimaster, or equivalent/q

Hehe
Which blade you got?

Jim K