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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4.
So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? NT |
#2
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#3
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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In article ,
wrote: I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4. So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. use joining plates (eg: Screwfix 66707) on both sides rather than angled screws. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? NT -- From KT24 Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18 |
#4
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On Sunday, June 22, 2014 12:29:31 PM UTC+1, charles wrote:
In article , wrote: I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4. So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. use joining plates (eg: Screwfix 66707) on both sides rather than angled screws. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? NT I did consider using wood offcuts in the same manner. Its ugly/bulky though. NT |
#5
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On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 04:11:48 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
Would a butt joint do it? Yes - but use a dowel. |
#6
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On 22/06/2014 13:31, Andy Burns wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 04:11:48 -0700 (PDT), wrote: Would a butt joint do it? Yes - but use a dowel. The second hole doesn't need to be remotely accurate if you fill it with 2 part filler and line the two pieces up before it sets. Did my newel post like that many moons ago |
#7
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#8
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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![]() wrote in message ... I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4. So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? Use a couple of thick dowels drilled and glued into the ends of the wood. Brush handles provide a source of cheap large dia. dowel. |
#9
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On Sunday, June 22, 2014 12:11:48 PM UTC+1, wrote:
I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4. So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? More thoughts.... I reckon the 2 simplest answers a for the uprights that are only a bit short, use longer cross pieces, using the width of those to add to the height for where a foot or so more length is needed, just use a dogleg joint and a few screws. Not pretty but very quick & stable, exactly the qualities I need. Doing a warehouse full of dowel joints? No. ![]() NT |
#11
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Jabba wrote:
scribbled... I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4. So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? NT A half-lap splice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOmg8ZPMqqg B Hell,all that time to explain, when a picture of the exploded joint would have sufficed on a diy NG. |
#12
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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F Murtz scribbled...
Jabba wrote: scribbled... I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4. So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? NT A half-lap splice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOmg8ZPMqqg B Hell,all that time to explain, when a picture of the exploded joint would have sufficed on a diy NG. As there's **** all on the telly atm, I reckon that video is good entertainent. |
#13
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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But joints are not good. You might get them OK with some dowels across the
join, but its never going to look great. Brian -- From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active wrote in message ... I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a project where spending money would be against the people's religion. Have just been given a bunch of wood for uprights that's a bit too short, plus matching short pieces. I'm wondering whether and how its practical to join bits end to end to solve this - if I dont, I'm left with a load of wood to get shot of. The joined on bit would only support the top shelf. The uprights are 1.5x3.5 to 2x4. So far I've considered: A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. A Z shaped joint, where the slanty bit of the Z is actually upright, not slanty. A good bit more stable, but I cant think how to easily do the central cut. Hand chiselling a load of partial circ saw cuts isnt something I want to be doing. A simple scarf joint would work, but is wasteful of wood, makes no use whatever of the woods ability to support itself, and the mitre saw doesnt cut far enough to do them, making repeatability a problem. Would a butt joint do it? NT |
#14
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On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 04:11:48 -0700, meow2222 wrote:
I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. Use a butt joint with gang nails around it http://www.anewhouse.com.au/wp-conte.../2013/10/Gang- Nail-300x139.jpg |
#15
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On Monday, June 23, 2014 12:16:23 AM UTC+1, Matty F wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 04:11:48 -0700, meow2222 wrote: I'm making some free standing heavy duty shelving kits at the mo for a A butt joint with 2 or 4 screws at an angle. Quick & easy - I like that - if its stable enough this would be the easy option. Use a butt joint with gang nails around it http://www.anewhouse.com.au/wp-conte.../2013/10/Gang- Nail-300x139.jpg And where does one get a pair of gang nail plates for less than the cost of a new upright? Or make one for so litle labour that its worth doing? NT |
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