Any reason why not?

I have some tiled[1] window cills outside and some tile-red floor paint
(ordinary, not epoxy).

A small test shows it dries to a nice dull matt and the colour is good.
Any reason not to? Frost/sun?

I don't really want to buy a massive tub of masonry paint and the latter
tends to be a bit too "matt".

Cheers

Tim


[1] Mostly clay roof tiles, but one set was added later and done with
concrete roof tiles, then painted white which soaked in. Hence the need
to paint it - and the others for consistency...

On 10/06/2014 18:06, Tim Watts wrote:
Any reason why not?

I have some tiled[1] window cills outside and some tile-red floor paint
(ordinary, not epoxy).

A small test shows it dries to a nice dull matt and the colour is good.
Any reason not to? Frost/sun?

I don't really want to buy a massive tub of masonry paint and the latter
tends to be a bit too "matt".

Cheers

Tim


[1] Mostly clay roof tiles, but one set was added later and done with
concrete roof tiles, then painted white which soaked in. Hence the need
to paint it - and the others for consistency...

I used an iron oxide primer on some concrete sills. Lasted a good few years

On 10/06/14 18:37, stuart noble wrote:
On 10/06/2014 18:06, Tim Watts wrote:
Any reason why not?

I have some tiled[1] window cills outside and some tile-red floor paint
(ordinary, not epoxy).

A small test shows it dries to a nice dull matt and the colour is good.
Any reason not to? Frost/sun?


I used an iron oxide primer on some concrete sills. Lasted a good few years

Interesting...

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff I put a couple of test patches on with
has dried but is nowhere near hard after 3 days - I can scratch it off
with my finder nail.

Crap paint or is this normal?

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:50:44 +0100, Tim Watts wrote:

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff ...

Crap paint or is this normal?

Leyland is not known as rubbish. What do the instructions say, you
have of course read those. B-) Ask Leyland.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 12/06/2014 07:50, Tim Watts wrote:
On 10/06/14 18:37, stuart noble wrote:
On 10/06/2014 18:06, Tim Watts wrote:
Any reason why not?

I have some tiled[1] window cills outside and some tile-red floor paint
(ordinary, not epoxy).

A small test shows it dries to a nice dull matt and the colour is good.
Any reason not to? Frost/sun?


I used an iron oxide primer on some concrete sills. Lasted a good few
years

Interesting...

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff I put a couple of test patches on with
has dried but is nowhere near hard after 3 days - I can scratch it off
with my finder nail.

Crap paint or is this normal?

A glazed surface is not ideal. Even stuff marketed as "tile paint"
doesn't hold that well IME

On 12/06/14 08:07, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:50:44 +0100, Tim Watts wrote:

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff ...

Crap paint or is this normal?

Leyland is not known as rubbish. What do the instructions say, you
have of course read those. B-) Ask Leyland.


The instructions did say upto a week - I was just surprised it is so
soft after 3 days? I assumed a week was to become really really hard to
cope with cars driving over it...

On 12/06/14 08:15, stuart noble wrote:
On 12/06/2014 07:50, Tim Watts wrote:
On 10/06/14 18:37, stuart noble wrote:
On 10/06/2014 18:06, Tim Watts wrote:
Any reason why not?

I have some tiled[1] window cills outside and some tile-red floor paint
(ordinary, not epoxy).

A small test shows it dries to a nice dull matt and the colour is good.
Any reason not to? Frost/sun?


I used an iron oxide primer on some concrete sills. Lasted a good few
years

Interesting...

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff I put a couple of test patches on with
has dried but is nowhere near hard after 3 days - I can scratch it off
with my finder nail.

Crap paint or is this normal?

A glazed surface is not ideal. Even stuff marketed as "tile paint"
doesn't hold that well IME

These aren't glazed - they are roof tiles (with a surface similar to
quarry tiles).

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 08:30:46 +0100, Tim Watts wrote:

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a
week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff ...

Leyland is not known as rubbish. What do the instructions say, you
have of course read those. B-) Ask Leyland.

The instructions did say upto a week ...

So why not believe them? Is it tough enough to walk on?

Do they use the word "cure"? That implies some form of chemical
reaction and if not a two part paint, presumably reacting with
something in the atmosphere. That will take time to propagate through
the full paint thickness.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 12/06/14 09:12, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 08:30:46 +0100, Tim Watts wrote:

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a
week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff ...

Leyland is not known as rubbish. What do the instructions say, you
have of course read those. B-) Ask Leyland.

The instructions did say upto a week ...

So why not believe them? Is it tough enough to walk on?

Dunno - I can't really walk on my window cills ;-

I thought it a reasonable question - never used floor paint of this type
before[1]. I don't know if I have a bad tin, or the conditions were
wrong (hot sun) or if this is completely usual for this type.

[1] I put an epoxy paint-on DPM down once and that was hard as rock in
under an hour, but then you'd probably expect that of epoxy.

Do they use the word "cure"? That implies some form of chemical
reaction and if not a two part paint, presumably reacting with
something in the atmosphere. That will take time to propagate through
the full paint thickness.

I guess it must be -

I remember oil based gloss and varnish can take quite a while to get
hard enough to walk on if applied to floorboards.

On 12/06/2014 08:31, Tim Watts wrote:
On 12/06/14 08:15, stuart noble wrote:
On 12/06/2014 07:50, Tim Watts wrote:
On 10/06/14 18:37, stuart noble wrote:
On 10/06/2014 18:06, Tim Watts wrote:
Any reason why not?

I have some tiled[1] window cills outside and some tile-red floor
paint
(ordinary, not epoxy).

A small test shows it dries to a nice dull matt and the colour is
good.
Any reason not to? Frost/sun?


I used an iron oxide primer on some concrete sills. Lasted a good few
years

Interesting...

Back to floor paint for a mo - does floor paint really take a week to
cure? The Leyland Contract stuff I put a couple of test patches on with
has dried but is nowhere near hard after 3 days - I can scratch it off
with my finder nail.

Crap paint or is this normal?

A glazed surface is not ideal. Even stuff marketed as "tile paint"
doesn't hold that well IME

These aren't glazed - they are roof tiles (with a surface similar to
quarry tiles).

The quarry tiles I've used are exceptionally porous. This typically
results in essential parts of the paint being sucked in before a film
has formed. Try the paint on something non-porous, like glass, and see
if it dries

On 13/06/14 09:15, stuart noble wrote:

The quarry tiles I've used are exceptionally porous. This typically
results in essential parts of the paint being sucked in before a film
has formed. Try the paint on something non-porous, like glass, and see
if it dries

Interesting theory - perhaps you're right. OTOH screed and concrete is
porous too, but the floorpaint suggests 2 coats which may have a reason
beyond coverage?

On 13/06/2014 10:18, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/06/14 09:15, stuart noble wrote:

The quarry tiles I've used are exceptionally porous. This typically
results in essential parts of the paint being sucked in before a film
has formed. Try the paint on something non-porous, like glass, and see
if it dries

Interesting theory - perhaps you're right. OTOH screed and concrete is
porous too, but the floorpaint suggests 2 coats which may have a reason
beyond coverage?

At least it would rule out a dodgy batch of paint

On 13/06/2014 10:18, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/06/14 09:15, stuart noble wrote:

The quarry tiles I've used are exceptionally porous. This typically
results in essential parts of the paint being sucked in before a film
has formed. Try the paint on something non-porous, like glass, and see
if it dries

Interesting theory - perhaps you're right. OTOH screed and concrete is
porous too, but the floorpaint suggests 2 coats which may have a reason
beyond coverage?

I painted the (enclosed/covered) concrete sideway of our place with
Leyland floor paint a while ago, in two halves (so we could use it in
case it took a while to dry). The first half took an age (multiple
days) to dry. Then I read the tin that said it 'could' be thinned for
the first coat. Did that for the other half and it dried in a few
hours. The second coat on both halves dried overnight like the the
thinned coat. The suggestion that the porous surface sucked the solvent
in and disrupted its drying(/setting) is consistent with this.

On 13/06/14 22:06, GMM wrote:
On 13/06/2014 10:18, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/06/14 09:15, stuart noble wrote:

The quarry tiles I've used are exceptionally porous. This typically
results in essential parts of the paint being sucked in before a film
has formed. Try the paint on something non-porous, like glass, and see
if it dries

Interesting theory - perhaps you're right. OTOH screed and concrete is
porous too, but the floorpaint suggests 2 coats which may have a reason
beyond coverage?

I painted the (enclosed/covered) concrete sideway of our place with
Leyland floor paint a while ago, in two halves (so we could use it in
case it took a while to dry). The first half took an age (multiple
days) to dry. Then I read the tin that said it 'could' be thinned for
the first coat. Did that for the other half and it dried in a few
hours. The second coat on both halves dried overnight like the the
thinned coat. The suggestion that the porous surface sucked the solvent
in and disrupted its drying(/setting) is consistent with this.

That's massively useful info. I tested in direct sun - perhaps that also
messed it up by drying it too fast.

Add some solvent to the 1st coat and paint on a cloudy day seems to be
an idea

On 13/06/2014 23:43, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/06/14 22:06, GMM wrote:
On 13/06/2014 10:18, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/06/14 09:15, stuart noble wrote:

The quarry tiles I've used are exceptionally porous. This typically
results in essential parts of the paint being sucked in before a film
has formed. Try the paint on something non-porous, like glass, and see
if it dries

Interesting theory - perhaps you're right. OTOH screed and concrete is
porous too, but the floorpaint suggests 2 coats which may have a reason
beyond coverage?

I painted the (enclosed/covered) concrete sideway of our place with
Leyland floor paint a while ago, in two halves (so we could use it in
case it took a while to dry). The first half took an age (multiple
days) to dry. Then I read the tin that said it 'could' be thinned for
the first coat. Did that for the other half and it dried in a few
hours. The second coat on both halves dried overnight like the the
thinned coat. The suggestion that the porous surface sucked the solvent
in and disrupted its drying(/setting) is consistent with this.

That's massively useful info. I tested in direct sun - perhaps that also
messed it up by drying it too fast.

Add some solvent to the 1st coat and paint on a cloudy day seems to be
an idea

Sounds like trapped solvents where the film skins over before they've
evaporated. Either the paint is too thick or too much has been applied
in one coat. I'd brush the first coat on "sparingly" i.e. pretend you're
down to your last spoonful. Don't worry about coverage

On 13/06/2014 23:43, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/06/14 22:06, GMM wrote:
On 13/06/2014 10:18, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/06/14 09:15, stuart noble wrote:

The quarry tiles I've used are exceptionally porous. This typically
results in essential parts of the paint being sucked in before a film
has formed. Try the paint on something non-porous, like glass, and see
if it dries

Interesting theory - perhaps you're right. OTOH screed and concrete is
porous too, but the floorpaint suggests 2 coats which may have a reason
beyond coverage?

I painted the (enclosed/covered) concrete sideway of our place with
Leyland floor paint a while ago, in two halves (so we could use it in
case it took a while to dry). The first half took an age (multiple
days) to dry. Then I read the tin that said it 'could' be thinned for
the first coat. Did that for the other half and it dried in a few
hours. The second coat on both halves dried overnight like the the
thinned coat. The suggestion that the porous surface sucked the solvent
in and disrupted its drying(/setting) is consistent with this.

That's massively useful info. I tested in direct sun - perhaps that also
messed it up by drying it too fast.

Add some solvent to the 1st coat and paint on a cloudy day seems to be
an idea
Sounds like a good plan.

I think the guidance was 10% white spirit (don't have the can any more
unfortunately), which didn't sound like it would make much difference
but it certainly did, and it made the paint flow much more easily as well.
Looking at the area today, the first (ie unthinned) area has worn much
worse than the second, but it may be that it gets more traffic (as it's
the route to the garage). It hasn't lifted, but seems to take scrapes
and knocks less well. That may not really be a great concern in your
application, of course.

On 14/06/14 10:27, stuart noble wrote:

Sounds like trapped solvents where the film skins over before they've
evaporated. Either the paint is too thick or too much has been applied
in one coat. I'd brush the first coat on "sparingly" i.e. pretend you're
down to your last spoonful. Don't worry about coverage

This is exactly why I ask seemingly "dumb assed" questions here

Yes - I dabbed it on with a bit of kitchen roll (didn't want to kill a
brush for a test patch).

Didn't seem *that* thick but likely thicker than if brushed on.

So thin is the key? I think I ought to have a dry run on a couple of old
bricks with a brush - clearly I'm not used to the way this stuff handles...

Thanks Stuart!

On 14/06/2014 12:58, Tim Watts wrote:
On 14/06/14 10:27, stuart noble wrote:

Sounds like trapped solvents where the film skins over before they've
evaporated. Either the paint is too thick or too much has been applied
in one coat. I'd brush the first coat on "sparingly" i.e. pretend you're
down to your last spoonful. Don't worry about coverage

This is exactly why I ask seemingly "dumb assed" questions here

Yes - I dabbed it on with a bit of kitchen roll (didn't want to kill a
brush for a test patch).

Didn't seem *that* thick but likely thicker than if brushed on.

So thin is the key? I think I ought to have a dry run on a couple of old
bricks with a brush - clearly I'm not used to the way this stuff handles...

Thanks Stuart!

IME two thin coats will often dry faster than one thick, but "one coat"
is what we're told we need.

On 14/06/14 12:47, GMM wrote:

I think the guidance was 10% white spirit (don't have the can any more
unfortunately), which didn't sound like it would make much difference
but it certainly did, and it made the paint flow much more easily as well.
Looking at the area today, the first (ie unthinned) area has worn much
worse than the second, but it may be that it gets more traffic (as it's
the route to the garage). It hasn't lifted, but seems to take scrapes
and knocks less well. That may not really be a great concern in your
application, of course.

The thinning seems to have been the correct answer! Thank you.

5% white spirit (max according to the can's instructions).

Brushed out as thinly as I could manage. Flowed well and brush marks went.

Most of it seems as hard as iron after 12 hours. One corner is a little
bit soft - on the clay tile - maybe I didn't brush it out as thinly.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...7645341067293/

That's one coat (and one coat Sadolin Classic on the wood, which turns
out to be mahogany and despite insane abuse and lack of care, turned out
not too bad.

I raked out a couple of small areas of rot, injected Wood Hardener into
the gaps with a syringe and filled the rot-holes with Ronsons wood filler.

I have deliberately not filled the joins in the wood sections as they
will move with the seasons (seen that already) - I will seal those
afterwards with Geocel "The Works" on the advice of a carpenter I know
who recommends it as the best sealant for the job. Only downside is
Geocel does not like being overcoated with solvent based paints which is
why it's going in after.

I might be better changing from brown to black sealant, looking at the
colour of the wood...