I may be being thick but I can't see the difference between a sawboard
and just clamping a plank to what i need to cut.

Feel free to enlighten me.

R D S wrote:

I may be being thick but I can't see the difference between a sawboard
and just clamping a plank to what i need to cut.

With the sawboard you just clamp the edge of the board to exactly where
you want the cut to be (as it's already been cut by the exact same
saw+blade).

With a plank, you need to offset by the distance from the relevant edge
of the saw's soleplate to the blade, then remember whether or not to add
the blade's kerf width depending which side you're cutting from.

I do have a handy dymo label with the 110/37mm offsets stuck onto my
saw, both my coarse and fine blades have a 2mm kerf, so that's easy to
remember.

On 03/06/2014 21:49, R D S wrote:
I may be being thick but I can't see the difference between a sawboard
and just clamping a plank to what i need to cut.

Feel free to enlighten me.

An edge guide will guide the say but does not mark the cut position -
you need to account for the offset of blade from base.

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy;

will protect the work from marking by the saw;

will reduce splintering on the top surface of the cut.





--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 03/06/14 21:59, Andy Burns wrote:

then remember whether or not to add
the blade's kerf width depending which side you're cutting from.

Still need to do that with the saw board. If the board is on the waste
side of the cut it's no use placing it right up against the cut line
unless you already added the kerf when you marked the line. Been there
done that plenty of times.

On 04/06/2014 00:01, pcb1962 wrote:
On 03/06/14 21:59, Andy Burns wrote:

then remember whether or not to add
the blade's kerf width depending which side you're cutting from.

Still need to do that with the saw board. If the board is on the waste
side of the cut it's no use placing it right up against the cut line
unless you already added the kerf when you marked the line. Been there
done that plenty of times.


Ideally you orient it so its on the piece you are keeping - that way it
cuts to the edge and you get the tearout protection on the good bit.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 03/06/2014 22:48, John Rumm wrote:
On 03/06/2014 21:49, R D S wrote:
I may be being thick but I can't see the difference between a sawboard
and just clamping a plank to what i need to cut.

Feel free to enlighten me.

An edge guide will guide the say but does not mark the cut position -
you need to account for the offset of blade from base.

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy;

will protect the work from marking by the saw;

will reduce splintering on the top surface of the cut.





Wot he said :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 03/06/2014 21:49, R D S wrote:
I may be being thick but I can't see the difference between a sawboard
and just clamping a plank to what i need to cut.

Feel free to enlighten me.


If you have a "spacer" whose width is the distance from the blade to the
edge of the saw base, then a plank is just fine (I keep an 8ft length of
contiboard for longer cuts). My spacer is a scrap of hardboard that I
cut circa 1990. I've lost everything else over the years, but that
always turns up when the job is finished.
One day I'll make a "proper" sawboard :-)

On 04/06/2014 09:05, stuart noble wrote:
On 03/06/2014 21:49, R D S wrote:
I may be being thick but I can't see the difference between a sawboard
and just clamping a plank to what i need to cut.

Feel free to enlighten me.


If you have a "spacer" whose width is the distance from the blade to the
edge of the saw base, then a plank is just fine (I keep an 8ft length of
contiboard for longer cuts). My spacer is a scrap of hardboard that I
cut circa 1990. I've lost everything else over the years, but that
always turns up when the job is finished.
One day I'll make a "proper" sawboard :-)

If you do you will never regret it. Hardboard sounds a bit thin to me.
With a sawboard made from 9 mm ply you have a nice firm corner into
which you force the non-cut side of the saw baseplate (probably more
force than you are applying in the cut direction) and you get a very
straight and accurate cut. Your contiboard will warp unless you have
somewhere to keep it flat. With a sawboard typically being 18 mm ply in
the thick part it is more stable and robust. The main thing to remember
when making a sawboard is to have the "double" bit wide enough so that
your clamps clear the motor overhang.

On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy;
will protect the work from marking by the saw;
will reduce splintering on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki (http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side - howcome?

I was always taught that any guide should be on the *opposite* side of the blade from the handle to counter the natural inclination to steer that way when pushing the machine forwards. It also removes any issue with the clamps fouling the overhanging motor, operator's arms, etc.

Am I missing something?

Mathew

On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

I was always taught that any guide should be on the *opposite* side
of the blade from the handle to counter the natural inclination to
steer that way when pushing the machine forwards. It also removes any
issue with the clamps fouling the overhanging motor, operator's arms,
etc.

Am I missing something?

The issue with motor fouling can be mitigated in two ways - you could
make the guide fence section wider to clear the edge of the motor, or
you raise the depth of cut on the saw by 1/2" to lift the motor clear.

Personally I tend to find myself more likely to pull the saw off line
toward me - i.e. toward the handle rather than away from it. However as
with any guide - it takes a bit of thought / practice to make sure you
keep the saw snugly against the fence.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 14:17:17 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

Ah, okay. Makes sense.

However as with any guide - it takes a bit of thought / practice to make
sure you keep the saw snugly against the fence.

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Thanks John.

Mathew

On 04/06/2014 15:17, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 14:17:17 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

Ah, okay. Makes sense.

However as with any guide - it takes a bit of thought / practice to make
sure you keep the saw snugly against the fence.

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

I also find it much easier to get the edge of the guide exactly where I
want the edge of the kerf to go, rather than have to judge from the cut
guides on the front of the saw, which are several inches away from the
blade.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 15:46:34 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

Apologies - yes - I meant better to maintain awareness of potential drifting even if using a sawboard, if you see what I mean!

On 04/06/2014 15:46, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 15:17, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 14:17:17 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

Ah, okay. Makes sense.

However as with any guide - it takes a bit of thought / practice to make
sure you keep the saw snugly against the fence.

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than
absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

I also find it much easier to get the edge of the guide exactly where I
want the edge of the kerf to go, rather than have to judge from the cut
guides on the front of the saw, which are several inches away from the
blade.



IME there's no way of achieving anything resembling accuracy without a
guide. Plus I don't need kickback when leaning across a 4ft board thanks
very much.

On 04/06/2014 16:50, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 15:46:34 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

Apologies - yes - I meant better to maintain awareness of potential drifting even if using a sawboard, if you see what I mean!

Yup see what you mean....

(I will also confess to having a cut in one end of my sawboard that came
about from starting a cut in the wrong direction!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 04/06/2014 18:09, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 16:50, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 15:46:34 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than
absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

Apologies - yes - I meant better to maintain awareness of potential
drifting even if using a sawboard, if you see what I mean!

Yup see what you mean....

(I will also confess to having a cut in one end of my sawboard that came
about from starting a cut in the wrong direction!)


I've had the same problem, so I make my sawboards double edged e.g.
piece of 3mm ply with a piece of 6mm x 34mm stripwood down the middle,
then cut each side & marked for direction of cut with a marker pen.

The 6mm strip fits under the saw body, so I only lose the 3mm of the ply.

Silicone spray on the sawboard makes a huge difference.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 04/06/2014 19:51, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 04/06/2014 18:09, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 16:50, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 15:46:34 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than
absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to
maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

Apologies - yes - I meant better to maintain awareness of potential
drifting even if using a sawboard, if you see what I mean!

Yup see what you mean....

(I will also confess to having a cut in one end of my sawboard that came
about from starting a cut in the wrong direction!)


I've had the same problem, so I make my sawboards double edged e.g.
piece of 3mm ply with a piece of 6mm x 34mm stripwood down the middle,
then cut each side & marked for direction of cut with a marker pen.

The 6mm strip fits under the saw body, so I only lose the 3mm of the ply.

Silicone spray on the sawboard makes a huge difference.


Two cunning plans! I'm a huge fan of silicone sprays but hadn't thought
about them for that. Do you not find 3 mm for the sawboard "base" a bit
thin? Mine, I think, are 9 mm which means you lose some cutting depth
with a relatively small diameter saw, but means they are nice and rigid
for clamping to the workpiece.

It's on my job list to make (shorter) sawboards for my new jigsaw, not
that I would normally use a jigsaw for long cuts, but if I've got it out
for a combination of straight and curved cuts it seems sensible to have
a sawboard for it rather than to have to get two saws out. Plus the
jigsaw is better of course for "stopped" cuts.

I also have one of the Aldi/Lidl plunge saws (because it looked really
useful) but I havn't actually used it yet. No reason not to make a
sawboard for them either, I suppose.

On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

Really? If you use them on a sawboard (to the left) with your body more
or less in line with the cut then to my mind the natural pressure from
the right hand is holding the saw against the guide as you apply cutting
pressure. And in fact you concentrate on holding the saw into the guide,
and apply only as much force as required in the cutting direction.

On 04/06/2014 20:37, newshound wrote:
On 04/06/2014 19:51, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 04/06/2014 18:09, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 16:50, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 15:46:34 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than
absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to
maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

Apologies - yes - I meant better to maintain awareness of potential
drifting even if using a sawboard, if you see what I mean!

Yup see what you mean....

(I will also confess to having a cut in one end of my sawboard that came
about from starting a cut in the wrong direction!)


I've had the same problem, so I make my sawboards double edged e.g.
piece of 3mm ply with a piece of 6mm x 34mm stripwood down the middle,
then cut each side & marked for direction of cut with a marker pen.

The 6mm strip fits under the saw body, so I only lose the 3mm of the ply.

Silicone spray on the sawboard makes a huge difference.


Two cunning plans! I'm a huge fan of silicone sprays but hadn't thought
about them for that. Do you not find 3 mm for the sawboard "base" a bit
thin? Mine, I think, are 9 mm which means you lose some cutting depth
with a relatively small diameter saw, but means they are nice and rigid
for clamping to the workpiece.

It's on my job list to make (shorter) sawboards for my new jigsaw, not
that I would normally use a jigsaw for long cuts, but if I've got it out
for a combination of straight and curved cuts it seems sensible to have
a sawboard for it rather than to have to get two saws out. Plus the
jigsaw is better of course for "stopped" cuts.

I also have one of the Aldi/Lidl plunge saws (because it looked really
useful) but I havn't actually used it yet. No reason not to make a
sawboard for them either, I suppose.

IMHO it isn't worth making one for a jigsaw - jigsaw blades always seems
to go off the vertical when used with a guide.

On 04/06/2014 22:33, newshound wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

Really? If you use them on a sawboard (to the left) with your body more
or less in line with the cut then to my mind the natural pressure from
the right hand is holding the saw against the guide as you apply cutting
pressure. And in fact you concentrate on holding the saw into the guide,
and apply only as much force as required in the cutting direction.

I guess that's the difference: I always use the saw as shown in the
sketch on the wiki, so the greater area of the base plate is on the
sawboard. Cutting to the left would compromise a square cut as it would
be balancing on the thin bit of base plate with the centre of gravity
over the waste, which would tend to tilt the saw and compromise a square
cut.
From the 'waste' side, which is invariably the more accessible place to
stand when cutting anything large like a door or worktop, that means
cutting left to right and a right hander is in an awkward positon as
your hand is across the back of the blade guard.

On 04/06/2014 20:37, newshound wrote:
On 04/06/2014 19:51, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 04/06/2014 18:09, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 16:50, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Wednesday, 4 June 2014 15:46:34 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

True. Perhaps it's better to be actively in control rather than
absently-mindedly relying on anything else.

Well this is probably true, but my hand is not steady enough to
maintain
a perfectly straight line without something to guide the saw.

Apologies - yes - I meant better to maintain awareness of potential
drifting even if using a sawboard, if you see what I mean!

Yup see what you mean....

(I will also confess to having a cut in one end of my sawboard that came
about from starting a cut in the wrong direction!)


I've had the same problem, so I make my sawboards double edged e.g.
piece of 3mm ply with a piece of 6mm x 34mm stripwood down the middle,
then cut each side & marked for direction of cut with a marker pen.

The 6mm strip fits under the saw body, so I only lose the 3mm of the ply.

Silicone spray on the sawboard makes a huge difference.


Two cunning plans! I'm a huge fan of silicone sprays but hadn't thought
about them for that. Do you not find 3 mm for the sawboard "base" a bit
thin?

Mine, I think, are 9 mm which means you lose some cutting depth
with a relatively small diameter saw, but means they are nice and rigid
for clamping to the workpiece.

9mm would lose me too much depth of cut. My AEG has 66mm DoC, less 3mm
for the sawboard leaves me 63.


3mm ply does wobble about a bit, but clamps fine.

The saw is pressing down on it anyway.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 05/06/2014 00:31, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 22:33, newshound wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the
guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and
unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

Really? If you use them on a sawboard (to the left) with your body more
or less in line with the cut then to my mind the natural pressure from
the right hand is holding the saw against the guide as you apply cutting
pressure. And in fact you concentrate on holding the saw into the guide,
and apply only as much force as required in the cutting direction.

I guess that's the difference: I always use the saw as shown in the
sketch on the wiki, so the greater area of the base plate is on the
sawboard. Cutting to the left would compromise a square cut as it would
be balancing on the thin bit of base plate with the centre of gravity
over the waste, which would tend to tilt the saw and compromise a square
cut.
From the 'waste' side, which is invariably the more accessible place to
stand when cutting anything large like a door or worktop, that means
cutting left to right and a right hander is in an awkward positon as
your hand is across the back of the blade guard.

Ah, I see what you mean. No, I cut from left to right too with most of
the baseplate on the sawboard. The point I was making is that if you are
behind the saw on the waste side your right hand is pushing the saw into
the guide, with your left hand free to grip the workpiece or workmate
for steadyness. That would be less the case if you were using your left
hand on the saw (although you could then steady the offcut). I only have
a relatively small saw which probably helps. I use a second workmate to
support the offcut unless it is very small.

On 05/06/2014 09:36, newshound wrote:
On 05/06/2014 00:31, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 22:33, newshound wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the
guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and
unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

Really? If you use them on a sawboard (to the left) with your body more
or less in line with the cut then to my mind the natural pressure from
the right hand is holding the saw against the guide as you apply cutting
pressure. And in fact you concentrate on holding the saw into the guide,
and apply only as much force as required in the cutting direction.

I guess that's the difference: I always use the saw as shown in the
sketch on the wiki, so the greater area of the base plate is on the
sawboard. Cutting to the left would compromise a square cut as it would
be balancing on the thin bit of base plate with the centre of gravity
over the waste, which would tend to tilt the saw and compromise a square
cut.
From the 'waste' side, which is invariably the more accessible place to
stand when cutting anything large like a door or worktop, that means
cutting left to right and a right hander is in an awkward positon as
your hand is across the back of the blade guard.

Ah, I see what you mean. No, I cut from left to right too with most of
the baseplate on the sawboard. The point I was making is that if you are
behind the saw on the waste side your right hand is pushing the saw into
the guide, with your left hand free to grip the workpiece or workmate
for steadyness. That would be less the case if you were using your left
hand on the saw (although you could then steady the offcut). I only have
a relatively small saw which probably helps. I use a second workmate to
support the offcut unless it is very small.
With you! Actually exactly the same thing. I guess my problem is the
size of the waste and maybe the length of the cut: Trimming a few
inches off a 2ft wide worktop is fine. It's when you're taking a foot
or more off an 8x4 sheet that it starts to get a bit acobatic, and
having a saw made the other way around would be a benefit, although some
would say that's the entire purpose of B&Q warehouse...

On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

I have yet to work out why cordless circular saws are "other handed"
from the mains ones....


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 05/06/2014 23:46, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

I have yet to work out why cordless circular saws are "other handed"
from the mains ones....


I reckon that with mains circular saws, the motor was on the left
because they turned clockwise. Maybe with DC motors on cordless its
easier/different?

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 05/06/2014 21:06, GMM wrote:
On 05/06/2014 09:36, newshound wrote:
On 05/06/2014 00:31, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 22:33, newshound wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the
guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and
unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a
guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

Really? If you use them on a sawboard (to the left) with your body more
or less in line with the cut then to my mind the natural pressure from
the right hand is holding the saw against the guide as you apply
cutting
pressure. And in fact you concentrate on holding the saw into the
guide,
and apply only as much force as required in the cutting direction.

I guess that's the difference: I always use the saw as shown in the
sketch on the wiki, so the greater area of the base plate is on the
sawboard. Cutting to the left would compromise a square cut as it would
be balancing on the thin bit of base plate with the centre of gravity
over the waste, which would tend to tilt the saw and compromise a square
cut.
From the 'waste' side, which is invariably the more accessible place to
stand when cutting anything large like a door or worktop, that means
cutting left to right and a right hander is in an awkward positon as
your hand is across the back of the blade guard.

Ah, I see what you mean. No, I cut from left to right too with most of
the baseplate on the sawboard. The point I was making is that if you are
behind the saw on the waste side your right hand is pushing the saw into
the guide, with your left hand free to grip the workpiece or workmate
for steadyness. That would be less the case if you were using your left
hand on the saw (although you could then steady the offcut). I only have
a relatively small saw which probably helps. I use a second workmate to
support the offcut unless it is very small.
With you! Actually exactly the same thing. I guess my problem is the
size of the waste and maybe the length of the cut: Trimming a few
inches off a 2ft wide worktop is fine. It's when you're taking a foot
or more off an 8x4 sheet that it starts to get a bit acobatic, and
having a saw made the other way around would be a benefit, although some
would say that's the entire purpose of B&Q warehouse...

I use bits of 4x4 timber as supports (cheaper than sawhorses or
workmates), which means I can use as many as I like to support the
workpiece and the offcut. Also I can stand or kneel on the material.
That said, for 8x4 sheets you need a flat surface to start with and my
back yard isn't quite flat enough. As you say, the panel saw option is a
no brainer usually

On 05/06/2014 23:46, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

I have yet to work out why cordless circular saws are "other handed"
from the mains ones....



It seems you can get cordless ones 'either handed', which was what threw
me into indecision when I was thinking of buying a new one: One of the
Makita cordless ones looked like a good idea because it's what I think
of as the right way round (ie t'other way to corded ones). At the same
time it only has a small blade and I wondered whether it would have
enough grunt/flexibility to be worthwhile.

On 07/06/2014 10:47, GMM wrote:
On 05/06/2014 23:46, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the
guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and
unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

I have yet to work out why cordless circular saws are "other handed"
from the mains ones....



It seems you can get cordless ones 'either handed', which was what threw
me into indecision when I was thinking of buying a new one: One of the
Makita cordless ones looked like a good idea because it's what I think
of as the right way round (ie t'other way to corded ones). At the same
time it only has a small blade and I wondered whether it would have
enough grunt/flexibility to be worthwhile.

I have a 14.4V DeWalt one which uses a thin kerf blade. Its ok but not
spectacular. My main problem is that it and an angle drill are the only
tools I have using that battery format, so I frequently don't have a
fully charged battery ready when I want.

It will cut a sheet of 18mm MDF, but its not going to do more than a
couple of lengths on a single battery IME. An 18V Makita one would have
been a better bet.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, June 7, 2014 11:22:52 PM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/06/2014 10:47, GMM wrote:

On 05/06/2014 23:46, John Rumm wrote:

On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:

On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:

On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:

On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:



The sawguide will :



Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will

protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering

on the top surface of the cut.



I notice on the Wiki

(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is

constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -

howcome?



That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the

guide. If

you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the

outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and

unstable

configuration.



That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or

a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left

handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.



I have yet to work out why cordless circular saws are "other handed"

from the mains ones....







It seems you can get cordless ones 'either handed', which was what threw

me into indecision when I was thinking of buying a new one: One of the

Makita cordless ones looked like a good idea because it's what I think

of as the right way round (ie t'other way to corded ones). At the same

time it only has a small blade and I wondered whether it would have

enough grunt/flexibility to be worthwhile.



I have a 14.4V DeWalt one which uses a thin kerf blade. Its ok but not

spectacular. My main problem is that it and an angle drill are the only

tools I have using that battery format, so I frequently don't have a

fully charged battery ready when I want.



It will cut a sheet of 18mm MDF, but its not going to do more than a

couple of lengths on a single battery IME. An 18V Makita one would have

been a better bet.



--

Cheers,



John.



/================================================== ===============\

| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |

|-----------------------------------------------------------------|

| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |

\================================================= ================/

I bought a B&Q one (Yellow coloured) some years back. Utterly useless. Stalled at the slightest provocation. Haven't thrown it away but haven't used it in a long time.

On 07/06/2014 23:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/06/2014 10:47, GMM wrote:
On 05/06/2014 23:46, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 21:25, GMM wrote:
On 04/06/2014 14:17, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2014 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 June 2014 22:48:07 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

The sawguide will :

Mark the exact kerf edge - making mm precise cuts easy; will
protect the work from marking by the saw; will reduce splintering
on the top surface of the cut.

I notice on the Wiki
(http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard) that it is
constructed to accommodate the handle/motor on the guide side -
howcome?

That way 9/10ths of the base plate of the machine rests on the
guide. If
you try to do it the other way, then only the very small lip on the
outside of the saw would be on the guide - a more difficult and
unstable
configuration.

That always seems the right way around for me, whether using a guide or
a saw board. Likewise, it always feels to me that saws are built left
handed, although there are some exceptions on the market.

I have yet to work out why cordless circular saws are "other handed"
from the mains ones....



It seems you can get cordless ones 'either handed', which was what threw
me into indecision when I was thinking of buying a new one: One of the
Makita cordless ones looked like a good idea because it's what I think
of as the right way round (ie t'other way to corded ones). At the same
time it only has a small blade and I wondered whether it would have
enough grunt/flexibility to be worthwhile.

I have a 14.4V DeWalt one which uses a thin kerf blade. Its ok but not
spectacular. My main problem is that it and an angle drill are the only
tools I have using that battery format, so I frequently don't have a
fully charged battery ready when I want.

It will cut a sheet of 18mm MDF, but its not going to do more than a
couple of lengths on a single battery IME. An 18V Makita one would have
been a better bet.

That was my thought: The 18V battery is in the drill anyway (most of
these units are sold bare) and only takes 20mins to charge. So long as
it had enough grunt for day to day use (say 12mm ply) I could also
envisage a certain amount of use in car parks to get things to fit in
the car....
On the other hand, yesterday in Sfx, they had an evolution mains saw
half price at 50quid, which was tempting.