Cast iron bench ends,(3 - one in middle)

What timber to use for "slats" for low/no maintenance?

I envisage finished bench being 8ft long, so what size timbers should I use?

TIA

Jim K

"JimK" wrote in message
...

Cast iron bench ends,(3 - one in middle)

What timber to use for "slats" for low/no maintenance?

I envisage finished bench being 8ft long, so what size timbers should I
use?

TIA

Jim K


Oak - oak - oh did I mention Oak ... - it's strong, doesn't rot easily,
doesn't need treating and looks good as it ages to a silver colour.

I'm in the process of re-doing a 5 foot bench but am luckily in the
possession of some old oak beams released from my recent(ish) house
refurbishment, and have a large saw bench and planer. As for size, it is
usually dictated by the cast iron ends - certainly mine has sockets so the
number and size is pre-ordained.

Andrew

Teak

/ Oak - oak - oh did I mention Oak ... - it's strong, doesn't rot easily, doesn't need treating and looks good as it ages to a silver colour.

I'm in the process of re-doing a 5 foot bench but am luckily in the possession of some old oak beams released from my recent(ish) house refurbishment, and have a large saw bench and planer. As for size, it is usually dictated by the cast iron ends - certainly mine has sockets so the number and size is pre-ordained./q

Oak eh? Mmm

On your bench is there just left & right "ends" & nothing in middle?
What size will your slats be?
My castings are :bolt down thru timber" style and are bare at mo so no idea of what section to aim for....

Cheers
Jim K

/Teak/q

Is that easily obtained though?

Jim K

On Sat, 31 May 2014 01:39:01 -0700 (PDT), JimK wrote:

/Teak/q

Is that easily obtained though?

Teak is what my late grandfathers bench has as slats. Recovered from
a couple of lengths of old laboratory bench. Slats are about 3 x 1"
and 4 to 5' long supported at the ends only. Held in place by
stainless nuts, bolts and washers.

Said bench has been outside since I made it up sometime between 1985
and 1995. It has weathered to a lovely silver and I'm now in two
minds about sanding it down and oiling it. The weathered surface is
sound, ie it has not gone "fluffy" but the weather up here is rather
more extreme than suburban Birmingham where it spent 20 odd years
outside. Stainless bolts etc also means that apart from the
weathering it's in excellent condition.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 31/05/14 09:14, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Teak


Cedar?

On 31/05/14 09:39, JimK wrote:
/Teak/q

Is that easily obtained though?

Jim K


If not teak, I expect there's an exotic wood with comparable properties.

On 31/05/14 09:39, JimK wrote:
/Teak/q

Is that easily obtained though?

Iroko is often used as a more cost-effective alternative to teak and is
fairly readily available. It is fine outdoors and fairly maintenance free.

On 31/05/14 09:14, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Teak

+1

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On 31/05/2014 08:03, JimK wrote:
Cast iron bench ends,(3 - one in middle)

What timber to use for "slats" for low/no maintenance?

I envisage finished bench being 8ft long, so what size timbers should I use?

Oak or oak.


--
Peter Crosland

Reply address is valid

"JimK" wrote in message
...

/ Oak - oak - oh did I mention Oak ... - it's strong, doesn't rot
easily, doesn't need treating and looks good as it ages to a silver colour.

I'm in the process of re-doing a 5 foot bench but am luckily in the
possession of some old oak beams released from my recent(ish) house
refurbishment, and have a large saw bench and planer. As for size, it is
usually dictated by the cast iron ends - certainly mine has sockets so the
number and size is pre-ordained./q

Oak eh? Mmm

On your bench is there just left & right "ends" & nothing in middle?
What size will your slats be?
My castings are :bolt down thru timber" style and are bare at mo so no idea
of what section to aim for....

Cheers
Jim K


Yes mine have just the two ends - nothing in the middle and the previous
slats seem to have been 2" wide by 1.25" thick which is what I will aim for
as a finished size. These bench ends were in our local tips 'recycling shop'
and bought for a tenner - all the original timber was long gone but where it
has been has left forensic marks letting me deduce the size.

In my fairly rustic situation I think oak is far superior cosmetically to
teak and teak lookalikes but in an urban setting I'd have no problem with
them.

Andrew

On 31/05/2014 10:38, Peter Crosland wrote:
On 31/05/2014 08:03, JimK wrote:
Cast iron bench ends,(3 - one in middle)

What timber to use for "slats" for low/no maintenance?

I envisage finished bench being 8ft long, so what size timbers should
I use?

Oak or oak.




As bench slats have a good circulation of air around them, you could use
a decent quality softwood. Lasts forever if it's not sitting in water

In message , Tim Watts
writes
On 31/05/14 09:39, JimK wrote:
/Teak/q

Is that easily obtained though?

Jim K


If not teak, I expect there's an exotic wood with comparable properties.

Keruing.

8'0 sounds a bit excessive unless the slats overhang the supports.

--
Tim Lamb

On Sat, 31 May 2014 10:46:37 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

In my fairly rustic situation I think oak is far superior cosmetically
to teak ...

That's part of the reason for not rubbing down and oiling my well
weathered teak bench. The dark red of new teak will be "out of
place".

I may well leave it but it doesn't seem right having no
proection/treatment on bare timber outside. There again it's done 20
odd years already...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 31/05/2014 12:35, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 31 May 2014 10:46:37 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

In my fairly rustic situation I think oak is far superior cosmetically
to teak ...

That's part of the reason for not rubbing down and oiling my well
weathered teak bench. The dark red of new teak will be "out of
place".

I may well leave it but it doesn't seem right having no
proection/treatment on bare timber outside. There again it's done 20
odd years already...


IME nothing whatever is the best finish to prolong the life of timber
outdoors

On Sat, 31 May 2014 20:04:22 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

I may well leave it but it doesn't seem right having no
proection/treatment on bare timber outside. There again it's done
20
odd years already...

IME nothing whatever is the best finish to prolong the life of timber
outdoors

Hum, that doesn't appear to apply to the softwood frames down the
side of the carport, nice grey, fluffy and rotten.

The softwood gates are doing well but they are a nice pale green from
CCA. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sat, 31 May 2014 11:02:55 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

As bench slats have a good circulation of air around them, you could use
a decent quality softwood. Lasts forever if it's not sitting in water

Which it quite probably will be where the wood meets the frame.

On Sat, 31 May 2014 10:46:37 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

Yes mine have just the two ends - nothing in the middle and the previous
slats seem to have been 2" wide by 1.25" thick which is what I will aim
for as a finished size. These bench ends were in our local tips
'recycling shop'
and bought for a tenner - all the original timber was long gone but
where it has been has left forensic marks letting me deduce the size.

Both of these-style bench ends that I've got have a metal bar going from
end to end under the seat base, about 6-9" above the ground. It's fairly
necessary for strength, I think - and they're only about 4-5' long.

On 31/05/2014 08:03, JimK wrote:
Cast iron bench ends,(3 - one in middle)

What timber to use for "slats" for low/no maintenance?

Provided that you have the patience to work with it opepe.

http://www.sydenhamshardwoods.co.uk/opepe-hardwood.aspx

It is slightly springy practically indestructible in a wet environment
and lasts pretty well in very aggresive chemical environments.

I envisage finished bench being 8ft long, so what size timbers should I use?

TIA

Jim K

Be aware though that it has to be treated like a metal it is hard and
brittle. You cannot nail it at all and you have to give some thought to
getting the right physical properties for a comfortable seat. It is
quite difficult to work with so be sure you are up to it first!

My fathers fence made from this stuff (offcuts from the dyestuffs
industry where it was used to make filter beds) and is still going
strong 50 years later with no real signs of damage apart from a change
in colour due the oxidised surface. New it is a nice orange colour.

Varnish it or oil it and the colour stays around for a fair while but
not for fifty years.

There is a bloke not far from me makes expensive posh gates and garden
furniture out of opepe and other exotic hardwoods.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

In message , Adrian
writes
On Sat, 31 May 2014 10:46:37 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

Yes mine have just the two ends - nothing in the middle and the previous
slats seem to have been 2" wide by 1.25" thick which is what I will aim
for as a finished size. These bench ends were in our local tips
'recycling shop'
and bought for a tenner - all the original timber was long gone but
where it has been has left forensic marks letting me deduce the size.

Both of these-style bench ends that I've got have a metal bar going from
end to end under the seat base, about 6-9" above the ground. It's fairly
necessary for strength, I think - and they're only about 4-5' long.

Also common to have a strap bolted about midway tying the seat slats
together.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Adrian
writes
On Sat, 31 May 2014 10:46:37 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

Yes mine have just the two ends - nothing in the middle and the previous
slats seem to have been 2" wide by 1.25" thick which is what I will aim
for as a finished size. These bench ends were in our local tips
'recycling shop'
and bought for a tenner - all the original timber was long gone but
where it has been has left forensic marks letting me deduce the size.

Both of these-style bench ends that I've got have a metal bar going from
end to end under the seat base, about 6-9" above the ground. It's fairly
necessary for strength, I think - and they're only about 4-5' long.

Also common to have a strap bolted about midway tying the seat slats
together.


O P stated that there is a central support.

On 01/06/2014 07:52, Adrian wrote:
On Sat, 31 May 2014 11:02:55 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

As bench slats have a good circulation of air around them, you could use
a decent quality softwood. Lasts forever if it's not sitting in water

Which it quite probably will be where the wood meets the frame.


Unless it's in permanent shadow, I wouldn't have thought that part would
stay wet for very long.

On 01/06/2014 10:27, stuart noble wrote:
On 01/06/2014 07:52, Adrian wrote:
On Sat, 31 May 2014 11:02:55 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

As bench slats have a good circulation of air around them, you could use
a decent quality softwood. Lasts forever if it's not sitting in water

Which it quite probably will be where the wood meets the frame.


Unless it's in permanent shadow, I wouldn't have thought that part would
stay wet for very long.

It stays wet almost permanently because it's not in perfect contact with
the frame, capillary action sucks water into the gap, and the small size
of the gap minimises evaporation. I've seen a lot of rotten wood where
it's been bolted to metal or been inside a socket in a metal frame.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

On 31/05/2014 21:28, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 31 May 2014 20:04:22 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

I may well leave it but it doesn't seem right having no
proection/treatment on bare timber outside. There again it's done
20
odd years already...

IME nothing whatever is the best finish to prolong the life of timber
outdoors

Hum, that doesn't appear to apply to the softwood frames down the
side of the carport, nice grey, fluffy and rotten.

The softwood gates are doing well but they are a nice pale green from
CCA. B-)


It doesn't help to lump all "softwood" together. Tight grained, resinous
timber doesn't need waterproofing, but the crap they sell in Wickes will
rot, whatever finish you apply. There are plenty of hardwoods that are
equally unsuitable for outdoor work, obeche, balsa etc etc. Interesting
that fencing panels don't normally rot despite being made from the
lowest grade of softwood. The posts and gravel boards are another matter

On 01/06/2014 07:54, Adrian wrote:
On Sat, 31 May 2014 10:46:37 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

Yes mine have just the two ends - nothing in the middle and the previous
slats seem to have been 2" wide by 1.25" thick which is what I will aim
for as a finished size. These bench ends were in our local tips
'recycling shop'
and bought for a tenner - all the original timber was long gone but
where it has been has left forensic marks letting me deduce the size.

Both of these-style bench ends that I've got have a metal bar going from
end to end under the seat base, about 6-9" above the ground. It's fairly
necessary for strength, I think - and they're only about 4-5' long.

Mine had similar, I think it's to maintain the rectangular front
elevation & stop it becoming a parallelogram.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk