When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the outside tap, which I can replace with the linear drain gully/connector box, but this does not contain a trap. So I need to add a roddable trap hopefully tight against the drain connector box to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving (I already will have 2 manhole inset boxes).
Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?

I like the look of the slot drains, but it seems the only way you could unblock them is to make them roddable from the ends whereas the linear drain grating comes off.

By the way, when searching for this I came across the bad advice to connect the linear drain to the extra connection of a back inlet bottle trap. Of course the trap is only between the top inlet and the underground connections - there is a air path between the front and back connections around the cylindrical core of the trap !

Cheers,
Simon.

On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:31:16 PM UTC+1, sm_jamieson wrote:
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the outside tap, which I can replace with the linear drain gully/connector box, but this does not contain a trap. So I need to add a roddable trap hopefully tight against the drain connector box to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving (I already will have 2 manhole inset boxes).

Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?



I like the look of the slot drains, but it seems the only way you could unblock them is to make them roddable from the ends whereas the linear drain grating comes off.



By the way, when searching for this I came across the bad advice to connect the linear drain to the extra connection of a back inlet bottle trap. Of course the trap is only between the top inlet and the underground connections - there is a air path between the front and back connections around the cylindrical core of the trap !



Cheers,

Simon.

There is trapped connector box available for the Floplast system. However I doubt it is roddable, unless you can get into the trap from inside the channel.
Is it a requirement for rainwater drainage into a combined sewer to be roddable ?
I suppose in theory it is roddable the other way from the inspection chamber a few metres away.

Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of
linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a
combined sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the
outside tap, which I can replace with the linear drain
gully/connector box, but this does not contain a trap. So I need to
add a roddable trap hopefully tight against the drain connector box
to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving (I already will
have 2 manhole inset boxes).
Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?

My patio has about 10 ft of linear drain running down the middle with a
grating over the top. The patio slopes both ways, down from the house and
down from the lawn so the grating is the lowest point. I cleared out the
crap in it for the first time last week and it's quite interesting how it
was designed. The 4" diameter semi circular U gulley under the grating is at
a higher level than the 4" diameter full circular drain pipe it runs into so
they only overlap by about an inch at the top which stops anything big
getting into the main drain and blocking it. The gulley was full to the top
with silt, twigs, leaves and a thriving colony of worms which went into the
borders to help fertilise the soil but once I'd trowelled all that out the
main drain was clear as a bell. I thought it was quite cunning and you might
want to employ it.
--
Dave Baker

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain
against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined
sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the outside tap,
which I can replace with the linear drain gully/connector box, but this does
not contain a trap. So I need to add a roddable trap hopefully tight against
the drain connector box to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving
(I already will have 2 manhole inset boxes).
Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?

I like the look of the slot drains, but it seems the only way you could
unblock them is to make them roddable from the ends whereas the linear drain
grating comes off.

By the way, when searching for this I came across the bad advice to connect
the linear drain to the extra connection of a back inlet bottle trap. Of
course the trap is only between the top inlet and the underground
connections - there is a air path between the front and back connections
around the cylindrical core of the trap !



They soon block up with leaves etc.
You are better to get one with liftable grids.
They have one in screwfix that has an intercptor as part of the package

Maybe the person owning that had no sense of smell?
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain
against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined
sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the outside tap,
which I can replace with the linear drain gully/connector box, but this does
not contain a trap. So I need to add a roddable trap hopefully tight against
the drain connector box to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving
(I already will have 2 manhole inset boxes).
Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?

I like the look of the slot drains, but it seems the only way you could
unblock them is to make them roddable from the ends whereas the linear drain
grating comes off.

By the way, when searching for this I came across the bad advice to connect
the linear drain to the extra connection of a back inlet bottle trap. Of
course the trap is only between the top inlet and the underground
connections - there is a air path between the front and back connections
around the cylindrical core of the trap !

Cheers,
Simon.

On 14/05/2014 15:50, Dave Baker wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
The 4" diameter semi circular U gulley under the
grating is at a higher level than the 4" diameter full circular drain
pipe it runs into so they only overlap by about an inch at the top which



is this a product or the way some things have been connected ... not
following this easily. care to explain further.



--
UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...
On 14/05/2014 15:50, Dave Baker wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
The 4" diameter semi circular U gulley under the
grating is at a higher level than the 4" diameter full circular drain
pipe it runs into so they only overlap by about an inch at the top which

is this a product or the way some things have been connected ... not
following this easily. care to explain further.

Just the way they've been laid out. Clay semi circular gulley under the
grating at ground level. Abuts to, but does not connect to obviously,
circular drain pipe laid a couple of inches lower so the top of the drain
pipe is about 1 inch above the bottom of the gulley. Not sure how I can
explain it better.
--
Dave Baker

On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:31:16 PM UTC+1, sm_jamieson wrote:
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the outside tap, which I can replace with the linear drain gully/connector box, but this does not contain a trap. So I need to add a roddable trap hopefully tight against the drain connector box to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving (I already will have 2 manhole inset boxes).

Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?



I like the look of the slot drains, but it seems the only way you could unblock them is to make them roddable from the ends whereas the linear drain grating comes off.



By the way, when searching for this I came across the bad advice to connect the linear drain to the extra connection of a back inlet bottle trap. Of course the trap is only between the top inlet and the underground connections - there is a air path between the front and back connections around the cylindrical core of the trap !



Cheers,

Simon.

To be honest I was originally going to lay out the patio so the water ran to the two existing gullies, letting the house wall act as a barrier to guide the water. Its a cavity wall whose outer leaf is solid blue engineering bricks and strong mortar, and many patios are done just this way without problems.

I have a side path about 1 metre wide that in theory could have a linear drain but that just seems silly. On that side I'm sure grading the path towards the house and towards the trap on that corner will be fine.

Simon.

In article ,
sm_jamieson writes:
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined sewer/rainwater setup here.

Something else to consider - if you have a hard surface right up to
the house wall, you will get rain splashing back up the wall, and
this can damage the bricks and mortar over time through water
penetration and frost damage (depending on absorbency of the bricks).

A 6" gap filled with small stones or soft foliage (such as grass) to
absorb the impact of the rain drops will prevent this. Sometimes,
this is made into a french drain by actually making a gully there
and filling it with fine stones, but you want to make sure it drains
well rather than turning into a moat against the wall.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

sm_jamieson wrote:
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of
linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a
combined sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the
outside tap, which I can replace with the linear drain
gully/connector box, but this does not contain a trap. So I need to
add a roddable trap hopefully tight against the drain connector box
to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving (I already will
have 2 manhole inset boxes).
Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?

I like the look of the slot drains, but it seems the only way you
could unblock them is to make them roddable from the ends whereas the
linear drain grating comes off.

By the way, when searching for this I came across the bad advice to
connect the linear drain to the extra connection of a back inlet
bottle trap. Of course the trap is only between the top inlet and the
underground connections - there is a air path between the front and
back connections around the cylindrical core of the trap !


Last time I had to run a channel into a roddable gulley, I just notched out
the side of the gulley with a small angle grinder and sat the end of the
channel in it.
The inner black removable sleeve still remained usable.
Don't forget, your channels will be set in strong mortar or concrete, which
itself acts as a channel once set, so anything escaping will still end up in
the gulley

On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 7:06:52 PM UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,

sm_jamieson writes:

When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined sewer/rainwater setup here.



Something else to consider - if you have a hard surface right up to

the house wall, you will get rain splashing back up the wall, and

this can damage the bricks and mortar over time through water

penetration and frost damage (depending on absorbency of the bricks).



A 6" gap filled with small stones or soft foliage (such as grass) to

absorb the impact of the rain drops will prevent this. Sometimes,

this is made into a french drain by actually making a gully there

and filling it with fine stones, but you want to make sure it drains

well rather than turning into a moat against the wall.



Well the recommended 150mm below DPC for hard surfaces is specified to reduce the rain splashback. The other trick I have seen is to angle the surface against the wall for a short distance to encourage splashing away.
Simon.

On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 7:28:31 PM UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:

When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of

linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a

combined sewer/rainwater setup here. I have a bottle gully under the

outside tap, which I can replace with the linear drain

gully/connector box, but this does not contain a trap. So I need to

add a roddable trap hopefully tight against the drain connector box

to avoid too many "things" cut into the patio paving (I already will

have 2 manhole inset boxes).

Can anyone suggest a suitable roddable trap ?



I like the look of the slot drains, but it seems the only way you

could unblock them is to make them roddable from the ends whereas the

linear drain grating comes off.



By the way, when searching for this I came across the bad advice to

connect the linear drain to the extra connection of a back inlet

bottle trap. Of course the trap is only between the top inlet and the

underground connections - there is a air path between the front and

back connections around the cylindrical core of the trap !





Last time I had to run a channel into a roddable gulley, I just notched out

the side of the gulley with a small angle grinder and sat the end of the

channel in it.

The inner black removable sleeve still remained usable.

Don't forget, your channels will be set in strong mortar or concrete, which

itself acts as a channel once set, so anything escaping will still end up in

the gulley

Haha. You beat me to it !
The gully I have looks like there may not be space for that, but you can get a riser and that could be cut into if the trap was set lower down.
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:

Well the recommended 150mm below DPC for hard surfaces is specified
to reduce the rain splashback. The other trick I have seen is to
angle the surface against the wall for a short distance to encourage
splashing away. Simon.

Angle the surface of what? - if you mean the paving, the water will hold one
slab's distance from your door.

In article ,
sm_jamieson writes:
On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 7:06:52 PM UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
sm_jamieson writes:
When I do the patio I want to drain it properly with a strip of linear drain against the house (main garden on level with DPC). Its a combined sewer/rainwater setup here.

Something else to consider - if you have a hard surface right up to
the house wall, you will get rain splashing back up the wall, and
this can damage the bricks and mortar over time through water
penetration and frost damage (depending on absorbency of the bricks).

A 6" gap filled with small stones or soft foliage (such as grass) to
absorb the impact of the rain drops will prevent this. Sometimes,
this is made into a french drain by actually making a gully there
and filling it with fine stones, but you want to make sure it drains
well rather than turning into a moat against the wall.

Well the recommended 150mm below DPC for hard surfaces is specified to reduce the rain splashback.

That doesn't reduce splashback - it just helps prevent it getting above
the DPC. Won't stop the bricks spalling below the DPC.

The other trick I have seen is to angle the surface against the wall for a short distance to encourage splashing away.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 8:05:06 PM UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:



Well the recommended 150mm below DPC for hard surfaces is specified

to reduce the rain splashback. The other trick I have seen is to

angle the surface against the wall for a short distance to encourage

splashing away. Simon.



Angle the surface of what? - if you mean the paving, the water will hold one

slab's distance from your door.

Yes, the surface of the paving. The example I saw used a row of block paving sized units parallel to the wall, so the water would be channeled about 4" from the door.
Simon.