I have a Portakabin with a leaking roof - current roof comprises metal
sheeting - possibly zinc but probably galvanised steel, in several panels,
with the joins bent upstanding and crimped. Leaks seem to be at the seams,
and over the years various sorts of bitumastic sealer have been applied,
usually resulting in a temporary fix. Leaks always come back after a few
months. Recent rainy season has wrecked the inner lining

I'm contemplating fiberglassing the whole roof to try an 'all time cure'
unless anyone has any other solutions ? Pitched roof would be nice but
probably not practical.

Andrew

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
I have a Portakabin with a leaking roof - current roof comprises metal
sheeting - possibly zinc but probably galvanised steel, in several panels,
with the joins bent upstanding and crimped. Leaks seem to be at the seams,
and over the years various sorts of bitumastic sealer have been applied,
usually resulting in a temporary fix. Leaks always come back after a few
months. Recent rainy season has wrecked the inner lining

I'm contemplating fiberglassing the whole roof to try an 'all time cure'
unless anyone has any other solutions ? Pitched roof would be nice but
probably not practical.

Andrew

Easiest/cheapest fix is with "flashband".
Wirebrush and apply the black primer first.
Good stuff.
Assuming you can fing the actual site of the leak.

"harryagain" wrote in message ...


"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
I have a Portakabin with a leaking roof - current roof comprises metal
sheeting - possibly zinc but probably galvanised steel, in several panels,
with the joins bent upstanding and crimped. Leaks seem to be at the seams,
and over the years various sorts of bitumastic sealer have been applied,
usually resulting in a temporary fix. Leaks always come back after a few
months. Recent rainy season has wrecked the inner lining

I'm contemplating fiberglassing the whole roof to try an 'all time cure'
unless anyone has any other solutions ? Pitched roof would be nice but
probably not practical.

Andrew

Easiest/cheapest fix is with "flashband".
Wirebrush and apply the black primer first.
Good stuff.
Assuming you can fing the actual site of the leak.


No Harry, that was one of the earlier 'cures' that failed sadly.

Andrew

Joins bent upstanding & crimped....

How big / high are the upstands?

Could you glass upstand 'covers' that could move with the seasonal movements?

Jim K

JimK wrote:
Joins bent upstanding & crimped....

How big / high are the upstands?

Could you glass upstand 'covers' that could move with the seasonal movements?

Jim K

Could use these depending on the height of the join
http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.u...idge-roll.aspx
When I did a grp roof I found the challenge was entraining the fibres in
the resin around tight radii. Which for the matting I was using was
anything tighter than something like a tennis ball.

Right mucky job.
Jon

I have never done this type of repair but did a liquid roof usage for my RV Roof leaks. Thanks for sharing. http://www.epdmcoatings.com/liquid-rubber.html

On 08/05/2014 15:26, Andrew Mawson wrote:

I'm contemplating fiberglassing the whole roof to try an 'all time cure'
unless anyone has any other solutions ? Pitched roof would be nice but
probably not practical.

I did my "new" pond last year.
My main tips would be to buy half a dozen of the big 10l(?) mixing
buckets and using water and a flat surface mark up the outside in 1
litre increments for mixing. 2 litres of resin seemed to be about right.
3 litres went off too quickly in my amateur hands but on a flat roof
using a squeegee to spread it out 3 litre batches shouldn't be a problem.
While the spent bucket is gelling use the next and so on then you can
just peel off/out the first bucket and start over again.

Over order resin and hardener as you will waste quite a bit and it's far
easier to saturate the mat with "ample" resin than it is to try and
repair patches of mat that wasn't fully wetted out and subsequently
becomes a hardned mass of pin-holes.

Work fast. Resin hates all damp and won't cure ever if it gets wet. So a
dry few days (week) is essential and ideal temperature would be around
18 to 20 degrees without direct sunlight. (warm cloudy day?)

Mix, spread, consolidate. I tried to consolidate the mat after 2 batches
of resin and it had already gone off and you don't get a 2nd chance once
it's setting.

Your clothes and shoes will get trashed and those blue latex/Butyl(?)
rubber gloves last about.... 30 seconds so get some heavy duty gloves
and wear the blue ones underneath.

Acetone is your very best friend.


I got all the stuff from http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk who are
very helpful.

Pete@


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On Fri, 09 May 2014 11:42:35 +0100, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
wrote:

On 08/05/2014 15:26, Andrew Mawson wrote:

I'm contemplating fiberglassing the whole roof to try an 'all time cure'
unless anyone has any other solutions ? Pitched roof would be nice but
probably not practical.

I did my "new" pond last year.


Over order resin and hardener as you will waste quite a bit and it's far
easier to saturate the mat with "ample" resin than it is to try and
repair patches of mat that wasn't fully wetted out and subsequently
becomes a hardned mass of pin-holes.


I got all the stuff from http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk who are
very helpful.


Digressing slightly can many on here remember when many towns of a
decent size had a Strand Glass shop. I suppose they just sort of faded
away when people gave up thinking it was the wonder material of the
1950's and 60's and also found making a canoe or a replacement car
wing wasn't quite as simple as it first appeared.

G.Harman

On 10/05/2014 20:52, wrote:
Digressing slightly can many on here remember when many towns of a
decent size had a Strand Glass shop. I suppose they just sort of faded
away when people gave up thinking it was the wonder material of the
1950's and 60's and also found making a canoe or a replacement car
wing wasn't quite as simple as it first appeared.

My step-father used them to buy some of the materials for casting
sculptures (though he usually used Tirantis). Heavy addition of bronze
powder to the gel coat. Then, when the cast was revealed, work on the
surface until it got a metallic look and patinate as desired.

Also used their products to make a spectacular stage prop. Four huge
frames, made into a "box" (think something like 12 feet high, 8 feet
wide). Each one was "glazed" with polyester resin dyed various colours
like a stained glass window. The individual bits were made by pouring,
brushing and spreading the wet resin onto sheets of melinex sheet. The
imperfections of the process ended up very much like some old glass (at
least enough for a prop). Then they were stuck together with suitable
black resin for the cames. Oh yes - they were pictures of trees
representing the four seasons.

--
Rod

On 10/05/2014 20:52, wrote:

Digressing slightly can many on here remember when many towns of a
decent size had a Strand Glass shop. I suppose they just sort of faded
away when people gave up thinking it was the wonder material of the
1950's and 60's and also found making a canoe or a replacement car
wing wasn't quite as simple as it first appeared.

Yes indeed.
As a lad my Mum and Dad used fibreglass to repair window frames, door
frames and all manner of stuff. Resin, hardener and powder filler.
Also back in the 70's "proper" lolly sticks were abundant around the
local news agent no need to buy "expensive" mixing sticks.
A family bus trip to the strand glass shop in Bristol was a regular outing.
Mum still has a stash of "strand glass" tins and stuff on the top shelf
of the garage. Wonder if it's still any good.


Pete@

On 09/05/14 11:22, wrote:
I have never done this type of repair but did a liquid roof usage for my RV Roof leaks. Thanks for sharing.


Liar.

--
Adrian C