Never had this before. Fluorescent tubes in my experience either work at
full brightness, flicker, or just the heaters glow.

I had a flickering tube, installed a new one, and it started fine but was
noticeably dimmer in the middle than at the ends. When I got it out of the
store, one pin had been bent, which I bent straight and I tested the heater
at that end with a meter - it was ok. Now obviously it's had a clunk to bend
the pin. If it had spoilt the seal and made a 'soft' tube I'd expect the
heaters to glow brightly then burn out which it didn't. So what process
makes for a dim tube? End 25% at both ends is normal brightness. Could the
phosphor have been dislodged in the middle but not the ends?

I'll leave it in place and observe it's progress as where it is is over a
shelf anyway.

Andrew

In article ,
Andrew Mawson wrote:
Never had this before. Fluorescent tubes in my experience either work at
full brightness, flicker, or just the heaters glow.

I had a flickering tube, installed a new one, and it started fine but
was noticeably dimmer in the middle than at the ends. When I got it out
of the store, one pin had been bent, which I bent straight and I tested
the heater at that end with a meter - it was ok. Now obviously it's had
a clunk to bend the pin. If it had spoilt the seal and made a 'soft'
tube I'd expect the heaters to glow brightly then burn out which it
didn't. So what process makes for a dim tube? End 25% at both ends is
normal brightness. Could the phosphor have been dislodged in the middle
but not the ends?

I'll leave it in place and observe it's progress as where it is is over a
shelf anyway.

I recently fitted one new tube in a twin fitting - smaller diameter than
the original - and it is slower to start and takes a short while to come
up to full. It's better than it was at first, though.

--
*The older you get, the better you realize you were.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 10:56:47 -0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Andrew Mawson wrote:
Never had this before. Fluorescent tubes in my experience either work at
full brightness, flicker, or just the heaters glow.

I had a flickering tube, installed a new one, and it started fine but
was noticeably dimmer in the middle than at the ends. When I got it out
of the store, one pin had been bent, which I bent straight and I tested
the heater at that end with a meter - it was ok. Now obviously it's had
a clunk to bend the pin. If it had spoilt the seal and made a 'soft'
tube I'd expect the heaters to glow brightly then burn out which it
didn't. So what process makes for a dim tube? End 25% at both ends is
normal brightness. Could the phosphor have been dislodged in the middle
but not the ends?

I'll leave it in place and observe it's progress as where it is is over a
shelf anyway.

I recently fitted one new tube in a twin fitting - smaller diameter than
the original - and it is slower to start and takes a short while to come
up to full. It's better than it was at first, though.

I've stopped using fluorescent tubes, they're very inefficient. As the tubes died, I replaced the fittings to take LEDs.

--
Saying that she is promiscuous is an understatement.
She'll go zero to sixty-nine in under fifteen seconds."

In article ,
Uncle Peter wrote:
I've stopped using fluorescent tubes, they're very inefficient. As the
tubes died, I replaced the fittings to take LEDs.

You'd need an awful lot of LEDs to replace a 6ft tube...

And what makes you think they are more efficent?

--
*You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 15/03/2014 11:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Uncle Peter wrote:
I've stopped using fluorescent tubes, they're very inefficient. As the
tubes died, I replaced the fittings to take LEDs.

You'd need an awful lot of LEDs to replace a 6ft tube...

And what makes you think they are more efficent?

It's possible to buy pin for pin replacements, all you may need to do is
replace the ballast choke with the appropriate gear for the LED array
used (Which could be just a piece of wire). Have a close look at the
lights in your local supermarket next time you're in there, and you may
just be able to make out the point sources inside what looks exactly
like a normal tube.

http://www.ledchoice.co.uk/led-tube-...FUsUwwodHbMA-w

They give off more lumens per watt, and the clincher for commercial
applications is that the life is longer, so you spend less on maintenance.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

"John Williamson" wrote in message ...

On 15/03/2014 11:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Uncle Peter wrote:
I've stopped using fluorescent tubes, they're very inefficient. As the
tubes died, I replaced the fittings to take LEDs.

You'd need an awful lot of LEDs to replace a 6ft tube...

And what makes you think they are more efficent?

It's possible to buy pin for pin replacements, all you may need to do is
replace the ballast choke with the appropriate gear for the LED array used
(Which could be just a piece of wire). Have a close look at the lights in
your local supermarket next time you're in there, and you may just be able
to make out the point sources inside what looks exactly like a normal tube.

http://www.ledchoice.co.uk/led-tube-...FUsUwwodHbMA-w

They give off more lumens per watt, and the clincher for commercial
applications is that the life is longer, so you spend less on maintenance.


So at 58 GPB each and I have 36 doubles ie 72 tubes thats ONLY 4000 quid
so no I'm not changing them !!!!!!!

Andrew

In article ,
John Williamson wrote:
It's possible to buy pin for pin replacements, all you may need to do is
replace the ballast choke with the appropriate gear for the LED array
used (Which could be just a piece of wire).

So hardly a direct replacement.

Have a close look at the
lights in your local supermarket next time you're in there, and you may
just be able to make out the point sources inside what looks exactly
like a normal tube.

http://www.ledchoice.co.uk/led-tube-...FUsUwwodHbMA-w

They give off more lumens per watt, and the clincher for commercial
applications is that the life is longer, so you spend less on
maintenance.

Given I have some fluorescent tubes (electronic control gear) here which
are many many years old and still going strong, I'll take any claims for
LED life with a pinch of salt. The few mains ones I've tried have failed
in about the same time as a tungsten. Making for a very expensive
experiment.

And I'm not impressed by the light quality of those LED strip lights.

--
*24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 11:54:16 -0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Uncle Peter wrote:
I've stopped using fluorescent tubes, they're very inefficient. As the
tubes died, I replaced the fittings to take LEDs.

You'd need an awful lot of LEDs to replace a 6ft tube...

I replaced two 5ft tubes with two triple BC fittings. I only put some 40W equivalents in there (which I had lying around) and it's just as bright. So that's 3x40W to replace a 5ft tube. So I'd replace your 6ft tube with say 3x60W or 2x100W.

And what makes you think they are more efficent?

They are 10 times as efficient as an incandescant. Ballast fluorescents are 4 times as efficient, and electronic fluorescents are 5 times as efficient.

--
There's a word you are misunderstanding or misinterpreting, whether explicitly or by necessary and inescapable implication.

On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 15:02:19 -0000, "Uncle Peter" wrote:

On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 11:54:16 -0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Uncle Peter wrote:
I've stopped using fluorescent tubes, they're very inefficient. As the
tubes died, I replaced the fittings to take LEDs.

You'd need an awful lot of LEDs to replace a 6ft tube...

I replaced two 5ft tubes with two triple BC fittings. I only put some
40W equivalents in there (which I had lying around) and it's just as
bright. So that's 3x40W to replace a 5ft tube. So I'd replace your
6ft tube with say 3x60W or 2x100W.

And what makes you think they are more efficent?

They are 10 times as efficient as an incandescant.

That explains your misconception then.

Ballast fluorescents are 4 times as efficient, and
electronic fluorescents are 5 times as efficient.

That looks pretty close to the truth of the matter. However, The
reality is that inductively ballasted tubes are a quite few percent
more efficient than even the best CFLs (they don't need a mercury
amalgam to optimize for the higher running temperatures of CFLs at a
slight reduction of efficiency compared to the lower temperature
conditions that normally apply to linear tubes).

When you equalise the benefit of HF electronic ballasting in a linear
fitting to that of a modern CFL, the improvement in luminous efficacy
is even greater.

As things stand, there isn't anything more efficient than an
electronically ballasted linear tube for GLS.
--
Regards, J B Good

*You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive


You never really learn to swear until your wife starts learning to drive.

On Mon, 17 Mar 2014 17:56:54 -0000, Mr Fuxit wrote:


*You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive


You never really learn to swear until your wife starts learning to drive.

I thought it was the other way round. Women tend to be overly cautious and get upset when a man "just misses" something.

--
A group of cowboys were branding some cattle.
While they were out the cook saw a sheep tied to a post. Thinking it was for that nights dinner he cooked it.
That night after dinner the cowboys were all sulking and ignoring the cook. He pulled one aside and asked, "Did I screw up the cooking?"
"No", the cowboy replied, "You cooked up the screwing."

On Mon, 17 Mar 2014 17:56:54 -0000, Mr Fuxit wrote:


*You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive


You never really learn to swear until your wife starts learning to drive.

Is your surname really Licence? I bet they got confused when you applied for a driving Licence.

--
Paddy takes his new wife to bed on their wedding night.
She undresses, lies on the bed spread-eagled and says
"You know what I want, don't you?"
"Yeah," says Paddy. "The whole flipping bed by the looks of it!"

On 15/03/2014 10:56, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Andrew Mawson wrote:
Never had this before. Fluorescent tubes in my experience either work at
full brightness, flicker, or just the heaters glow.

I had a flickering tube, installed a new one, and it started fine but
was noticeably dimmer in the middle than at the ends. When I got it out
of the store, one pin had been bent, which I bent straight and I tested
the heater at that end with a meter - it was ok. Now obviously it's had
a clunk to bend the pin. If it had spoilt the seal and made a 'soft'
tube I'd expect the heaters to glow brightly then burn out which it
didn't. So what process makes for a dim tube? End 25% at both ends is
normal brightness. Could the phosphor have been dislodged in the middle
but not the ends?

I'll leave it in place and observe it's progress as where it is is over a
shelf anyway.

I recently fitted one new tube in a twin fitting - smaller diameter than
the original - and it is slower to start and takes a short while to come
up to full. It's better than it was at first, though.


I'd change that fitting for a "Viper HF" from TLC.


http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...atten_Fittings

Instant on, great light, not expensive. I've got one in the kitchen.
Can't get these from DIY sheds yet which is a shame on them ...

--
Adrian C

In message , Adrian C
writes

I'd change that fitting for a "Viper HF" from TLC.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind.../Lighting_Fluo
rescent_Index/Fluorescent_Batten_Fittings/index.html#HF_Batten_Fittings

Instant on, great light, not expensive. I've got one in the kitchen.
Can't get these from DIY sheds yet which is a shame on them ...


+1

I replaced 4 twin fittings around the house with similar HF fittings
from TLC and they made a big difference. They appear to come on at full
brightness instantly, although using a light meter they do take a couple
of minutes, but this isn't actually noticeable to the naked eye. Much
more friendly than the older style of fluorescent. I was expecting
more RF interference from them, but this hasn't been the case, if
anything they are quieter. The only slight issue was having to go and
collect the tubes, for some reason they will not courier these! :-)
--
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

In message , Adrian C
writes

I'd change that fitting for a "Viper HF" from TLC.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind.../Lighting_Fluo
rescent_Index/Fluorescent_Batten_Fittings/index.html#HF_Batten_Fittings

Instant on, great light, not expensive. I've got one in the kitchen.
Can't get these from DIY sheds yet which is a shame on them ...


+1

I replaced 4 twin fittings around the house with similar HF fittings
from TLC and they made a big difference. They appear to come on at full
brightness instantly, although using a light meter they do take a couple
of minutes, but this isn't actually noticeable to the naked eye. Much
more friendly than the older style of fluorescent. I was expecting
more RF interference from them, but this hasn't been the case, if
anything they are quieter. The only slight issue was having to go and
collect the tubes, for some reason they will not courier these! :-)


There a 36 twin 6 foot fittings so they won't be changed !

Andrew

On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 12:05:54 -0000, "Andrew Mawson"
wrote:

"Bill" wrote in message ...

In message , Adrian C
writes

I'd change that fitting for a "Viper HF" from TLC.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind.../Lighting_Fluo
rescent_Index/Fluorescent_Batten_Fittings/index.html#HF_Batten_Fittings

Instant on, great light, not expensive. I've got one in the kitchen.
Can't get these from DIY sheds yet which is a shame on them ...


+1

I replaced 4 twin fittings around the house with similar HF fittings
from TLC and they made a big difference. They appear to come on at full
brightness instantly, although using a light meter they do take a couple
of minutes, but this isn't actually noticeable to the naked eye. Much
more friendly than the older style of fluorescent. I was expecting
more RF interference from them, but this hasn't been the case, if
anything they are quieter. The only slight issue was having to go and
collect the tubes, for some reason they will not courier these! :-)


There a 36 twin 6 foot fittings so they won't be changed !


A few years ago, after goggling (_not_ googling, in case you
wondered) at the eyewatering price of 5 foot tubes on Tool Station's
web site, I came across a company that would ship tubes at about a
tenth of Tool Station's one off price of 10 quid but only in unit
quantities of 25!

Not really a sensible option when all I wanted was a replacement plus
a spare or two (I'd be dead and buried long before I even got halfway
through that lot!). In the end I bought three tubes from my local CEF
for just less than a tenner.

If you were planning on a complete re-lamping exercise for that lot,
you could certainly have them shipped (72 tubes) as 3 packs of 25
leaving you with 3 spares.

The electronic ballasts (either retro fit kits or complete batten
fittings) just don't make economic sense when it comes to upgrading an
existing installation. They'd never last long enough to realise any
ROI value (never mind the ballast's service life, _you'd_ never live
long enough to see a positive ROI even if the parts could last that
long!). They barely make sense on new build installations as it is.
They need to drop in price by a good 70% before they become a viable
retro fit option.
--
Regards, J B Good

On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 11:29:21 -0000, Adrian C wrote:

On 15/03/2014 10:56, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Andrew Mawson wrote:
Never had this before. Fluorescent tubes in my experience either work at
full brightness, flicker, or just the heaters glow.

I had a flickering tube, installed a new one, and it started fine but
was noticeably dimmer in the middle than at the ends. When I got it out
of the store, one pin had been bent, which I bent straight and I tested
the heater at that end with a meter - it was ok. Now obviously it's had
a clunk to bend the pin. If it had spoilt the seal and made a 'soft'
tube I'd expect the heaters to glow brightly then burn out which it
didn't. So what process makes for a dim tube? End 25% at both ends is
normal brightness. Could the phosphor have been dislodged in the middle
but not the ends?

I'll leave it in place and observe it's progress as where it is is over a
shelf anyway.

I recently fitted one new tube in a twin fitting - smaller diameter than
the original - and it is slower to start and takes a short while to come
up to full. It's better than it was at first, though.


I'd change that fitting for a "Viper HF" from TLC.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...atten_Fittings

Instant on, great light, not expensive. I've got one in the kitchen.
Can't get these from DIY sheds yet which is a shame on them ...

Why fit outdated technology? If you're going to change a fitting, make it LED.

--
"Boy, will I give YOU a haircut!" said Tom barbarously.

Well, is it or was it quite cold, and has it brightened with time?
I got one out of a shed some years back when I needed light, and found it
exactly as you suggest, but after about half an hour it was normal.
Other than that, it could be either the ionisation at UV li is lower in the
middle somehow, or the phosphor is just thinner or not very good.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
Never had this before. Fluorescent tubes in my experience either work at
full brightness, flicker, or just the heaters glow.

I had a flickering tube, installed a new one, and it started fine but was
noticeably dimmer in the middle than at the ends. When I got it out of the
store, one pin had been bent, which I bent straight and I tested the
heater at that end with a meter - it was ok. Now obviously it's had a
clunk to bend the pin. If it had spoilt the seal and made a 'soft' tube
I'd expect the heaters to glow brightly then burn out which it didn't. So
what process makes for a dim tube? End 25% at both ends is normal
brightness. Could the phosphor have been dislodged in the middle but not
the ends?

I'll leave it in place and observe it's progress as where it is is over a
shelf anyway.

Andrew