Installing a woodburner
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years.
I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace.. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? Cheers Peter |
Installing a woodburner
On 01/02/2014 12:09, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years. I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? Cheers Peter I think it's assumed a property of that age is likely to need a flue, and they are hellishly expensive for some reason. I suppose if a chimney sweep does the test and gives you the ok, you could go ahead without the flue. That's what happened with the open fire in my son's house, but that's 30s built. |
Installing a woodburner
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 04:09:55 -0800 (PST)
puffernutter wrote: I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years. I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? Cheers Peter The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should know. As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the massive costs of installing a new flue for my thatched property, the problem is the high temperatures created in the flue of a wood-burning stove, much higher than those of a wood fire, and which are more likely to set fire to roof timbers. Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do with the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your insurance company will instantly check for the flue liner, and certificate, as soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find them, will invalidate your cover. Just my opinion. -- Davey. |
Installing a woodburner
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 04:09:55 -0800 (PST), puffernutter wrote:
Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? Look at the relevant building regs that are online in the "planning portal"? Google will find 'em... I don't think a liner is an absolute must but you'd have to be pretty sure that the chimney is sound and stays that way. Woodburners flue gases are also hotter and not diluted with air like those from an open fire. There may be longer term problems due to tar condensation in a relatively cold and high thermal mass chimney. -- Cheers Dave. |
Installing a woodburner
In article , Davey
writes The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should know. As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the massive costs of installing a new flue for my thatched property, the problem is the high temperatures created in the flue of a wood-burning stove, much higher than those of a wood fire, and which are more likely to set fire to roof timbers. Why would a gas installer know the requirements for a woodburner? Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do with the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your insurance company will instantly check for the flue liner, and certificate, as soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find them, will invalidate your cover. You're talking out of your arse. Just my opinion. And exceptionally badly informed. -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday 01 February 2014 12:09 puffernutter wrote in uk.d-i-y:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years. I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. You could just get the gas disconnected and capped. Then remove the fire yourself. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. Sounds about right - *most* of that is the liner. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? That depends on lots of things - condition of existing flue, cross sectional area vs the stove manufacturer's requirements of the same (this should be in the installer handbook for the stove, often downloadable online). Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Yes or yes respectively. Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? In short: 1) Combustion - meet the requirements for combustable materials being the required distance from the stove and anything connected with the hearth area WRT to rest of the floor (eg carpets). 2) Flue; 3) Ventilation - possibly you may need a vent in that room. The installer's handbook for the stove sometimes summarises the requirements or a common subset of them. Otherwise, flick through the building regulations Approved Documents online (google). Personally, I would: Get the gas fitter to cap the gas off; Remove fire myself and make good the hearth and fire opening. Ring up the nearest HETAS fitter as I think you'll pay around £200-300 over the parts for the actual labour and he gets to clamber on the roof, bugger about swearing at fittings and bends in the flue and best of all, you get a nice shiney certificate at the end to keep your insurers happy :) In otherwords, do all the prep and sub out the really fiddly bit :) You can take his advice before hand on whether the room needs a vent and do that yourself like I did too. But have it done before he installs everything or else he may not be able to sign off. -- Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/ http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday 01 February 2014 13:11 Tim Streater wrote in uk.d-i-y:
In article , puffernutter wrote: I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Don't think BC need be involved. They do unless a HETAS bloke certifies the work. But if you don't have a proper flue and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup. -- Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/ http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage |
Installing a woodburner
On 01/02/2014 12:09, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years. I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? Cheers Peter I'm not an expert but when I moved into my current house 6 years ago it had a wood-burning stove but no flue liner. It was a disaster. Obviously the chimney was in no fit state and tar stains and condensation damp ruined the upstairs decorations, plaster and carpet and the top of the corresponding downstairs wall doesn't bear looking at. I've had a flue liner and vermiculite insulation installed (cost: £900) and the situation is vastly improved, although it's only 5 months ago and the walls haven't quite dried out. None of this may apply in your case but it's a cautionary tale. Another Dave |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday 01 February 2014 15:28 Another Dave wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Obviously the chimney was in no fit state and tar stains and condensation damp ruined the upstairs decorations, plaster and carpet and the top of the corresponding downstairs wall doesn't bear looking at. *If* that should ever come back, here's my dad's solution (from an oil- boiler flue that caused similar): Cut plaster off the affected area back to brick. Sock out any tar with tissue paper soaked in sugar soap - repeat over a week, leaving tissue paper stuck to brick until dry. That draws some out. Render with a 3:1 sand cement mix as the plaster "undercoat". It's less permeable than plaster. Seal that (he didn't, I would) Skim plaster. There may be more modern ways, but his way worked. Hopefully you will not need to as it is no longer wet - or some surface sealer might be enough (SBR might work here). -- Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/ http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage |
Installing a woodburner
On 01/02/2014 15:40, Tim Watts wrote:
Cut plaster off the affected area back to brick. Sock out any tar with tissue paper soaked in sugar soap - repeat over a week, leaving tissue paper stuck to brick until dry. That draws some out. Render with a 3:1 sand cement mix as the plaster "undercoat". It's less permeable than plaster. Seal that (he didn't, I would) Skim plaster. Thanks. I'm hoping it won't come to that. Another Dave |
Installing a woodburner
In article , Huge
writes On 2014-02-01, fred wrote: In article , Davey writes The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should know. As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the massive costs of installing a new flue for my thatched property, the problem is the high temperatures created in the flue of a wood-burning stove, much higher than those of a wood fire, and which are more likely to set fire to roof timbers. Why would a gas installer know the requirements for a woodburner? Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do with the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your insurance company will instantly check for the flue liner, and certificate, as soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find them, will invalidate your cover. You're talking out of your arse. Just my opinion. And exceptionally badly informed. So you think people should gamble with their largest asset on the basis of some anonymous ****** (in case of any doubt, that's you) on Usenet, do you? Charmed I'm sure hunney. It's not a gamble to suggest that people treat unsubstantiated claims about the insurance industry with caution. Something like, "we're sorry that your house burned down, the fire service have told us that the likely cause was an unattended chip pan in the kitchen, but we are unable to pay your claim because we found that a 100W bulb in the bedroom was missing a CE mark" would be obvious ******** but no more or less credible than the poster's assertion on wiring fires and flues. You may note that I made no suggestion about the wisdom or otherwise of installing an appropriate flue. Personally I would view it as foolish not to install a twinwall insulated flue in the circumstances described but the purpose of my post was to put on record a warning not to accept unqualified advice from a gas installer and to dispute inaccurate remarks about insurance, nothing else. That done, future readers can draw their own conclusions.. HTH -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
Installing a woodburner
"puffernutter" wrote in message ... I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years. I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? Cheers Peter You need the flue liner. It helps prevent tar buildup. Theremay be leaks/bad joints in the brickwork that could leak CO into the house. It helps the stove run more efficently. It's quite normal for the flue to cost s much/more as the stove/woodburner. I demolished my existing chimney and installed a freestanding Selkirk Metalbestos chimney. Also, think about getting a room sealed stove. You don't need to have combustion air coming into the room. And you need a CO detector/alarm. |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday, 1 February 2014 12:09:55 UTC, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years. I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? Cheers Peter Have a look at this website: http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/...s-north-wales/ I have no affiliation except that I'm considering installing a stove and this was a helpful source of info. |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday, February 1, 2014 2:52:58 PM UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
[lots of very sensible stuff] In other words, do all the prep and sub out the really fiddly bit :) +1 |
Installing a woodburner
On 01/02/2014 12:09, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years. I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer. I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed? Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.? You don't have to but you need to consider the possible consequences if you don't. These include, in no particular order, the fact that it might invalidate your insurance and make the property impossible to sell in future until the job is done properly. The safety aspect should be obvious. Wood burners generate a lot of heat so the correct flue really is essential. Common sense should tell you that you need to bite the bullet an get the flue professionally installed. -- Peter Crosland |
Installing a woodburner
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 16:24:35 +0000
fred wrote: In article , Huge writes On 2014-02-01, fred wrote: In article , Davey writes The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should know. As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the massive costs of installing a new flue for my thatched property, the problem is the high temperatures created in the flue of a wood-burning stove, much higher than those of a wood fire, and which are more likely to set fire to roof timbers. Why would a gas installer know the requirements for a woodburner? Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do with the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your insurance company will instantly check for the flue liner, and certificate, as soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find them, will invalidate your cover. You're talking out of your arse. Just my opinion. And exceptionally badly informed. So you think people should gamble with their largest asset on the basis of some anonymous ****** (in case of any doubt, that's you) on Usenet, do you? Charmed I'm sure hunney. It's not a gamble to suggest that people treat unsubstantiated claims about the insurance industry with caution. Something like, "we're sorry that your house burned down, the fire service have told us that the likely cause was an unattended chip pan in the kitchen, but we are unable to pay your claim because we found that a 100W bulb in the bedroom was missing a CE mark" would be obvious ******** but no more or less credible than the poster's assertion on wiring fires and flues. You may note that I made no suggestion about the wisdom or otherwise of installing an appropriate flue. Personally I would view it as foolish not to install a twinwall insulated flue in the circumstances described but the purpose of my post was to put on record a warning not to accept unqualified advice from a gas installer and to dispute inaccurate remarks about insurance, nothing else. That done, future readers can draw their own conclusions.. HTH Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't try to wriggle put out of paying claims. And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one we had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove installation did. -- Davey. |
Installing a woodburner
In article , Davey
writes Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't try to wriggle put out of paying claims. And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one we had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove installation did. And that is the beauty of usenet, your unfettered right to reply. However, when you say, "will invalidate your cover" as if it is fact in the given context when it not, expect a robust correction from me. -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
Installing a woodburner
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 19:24:55 +0000
fred wrote: In article , Davey writes Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't try to wriggle put out of paying claims. And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one we had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove installation did. And that is the beauty of usenet, your unfettered right to reply. However, when you say, "will invalidate your cover" as if it is fact in the given context when it not, expect a robust correction from me. Ok, I'll modify it: "Could be used to invalidate your cover". Better? -- Davey. |
Installing a woodburner
In message , Tim Streater
writes In article , puffernutter wrote: I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup. There is fair bit of information on the wood burner vendor sites. Obviously they have a vested interest. Also covered by building regs. J? You need an air vent for 5+kW or so. When I fitted mine, BC supervised. For a commercial installation you need a Hetas certified person. -- Tim Lamb |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday 01 February 2014 21:02 Tim Lamb wrote in uk.d-i-y:
In message , Tim Streater writes In article , puffernutter wrote: I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed. I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup. There is fair bit of information on the wood burner vendor sites. Obviously they have a vested interest. Also covered by building regs. J? You need an air vent for 5+kW or so. When I fitted mine, BC supervised. For a commercial installation you need a Hetas certified person. And you also now need a CO detector under building regs. I forgot that earlier. -- Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/ http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday 01 February 2014 13:11 Tim Streater wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup. This is, I believe, not correct: (Page 6, Approved Doc J) "In general, all work on a combustion appliance which is not a repair or maintenance will be notifiable work and Schedule 2B will not apply. However, it might be possible to add a control device to the appliance or to alter its electrical connection under the allowance in this schedule. Local authority building control departments can give advice in cases of doubt." If nothing else, the decision about whether to reuse a flue or to line, and how to line with what is something that needs to be decided by someone with competance. -- Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/ http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage |
Installing a woodburner
In article , Davey
writes On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 19:24:55 +0000 fred wrote: In article , Davey writes Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't try to wriggle put out of paying claims. And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one we had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove installation did. And that is the beauty of usenet, your unfettered right to reply. However, when you say, "will invalidate your cover" as if it is fact in the given context when it not, expect a robust correction from me. Ok, I'll modify it: "Could be used to invalidate your cover". Better? Not if you want to stick to your example :-). If you had an electrical fire that burned down your home then the certification of your woodburner flue would have no bearing on your claim. If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial ombudsman service would wipe the floor with them. If, alternatively, you put a woodburner in an inadequate flue and burnt your house down as a result of your own negligence then I'd expect at least a very close examination of the terms of your cover and most likely a spit roasting of your body over the ashes of your home by the insurer's loss adjuster. -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
Installing a woodburner
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 22:32:09 +0000
fred wrote: If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial ombudsman service would wipe the floor with them. You have more faith in them than I do, then. -- Davey. |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday, 1 February 2014 23:48:15 UTC, Davey wrote:
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 22:32:09 +0000 fred wrote: If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial ombudsman service would wipe the floor with them. You have more faith in them than I do, then. -- Davey. Thank you all for taking the time to reply. After the gas was disconnected I was planning to do all the work needed to remove the gas fire and install the wood burner (I did that for the larger one we have) and after all the comments I'll follow the same plan and get a "man in" to install the flue and put vermiculite around it. Cheers Peter |
Installing a woodburner
On Sunday 02 February 2014 08:12 puffernutter wrote in uk.d-i-y:
On Saturday, 1 February 2014 23:48:15 UTC, Davey wrote: On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 22:32:09 +0000 fred wrote: If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial ombudsman service would wipe the floor with them. You have more faith in them than I do, then. -- Davey. Thank you all for taking the time to reply. After the gas was disconnected I was planning to do all the work needed to remove the gas fire and install the wood burner (I did that for the larger one we have) and after all the comments I'll follow the same plan and get a "man in" to install the flue and put vermiculite around it. Cheers Peter The vermulite is optional, depending. I do not have any (HETAS installed liner) and it's useful the brock flue gets warm as it becomes a central source of stored heat. However, it's a bunglow - short flue. It may be decided by your HETAS bloke that vermulite is a good idea. Just saying don;t worry if he does not recommend it. -- Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/ http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage |
Installing a woodburner
On Saturday, February 1, 2014 1:11:03 PM UTC, Tim Streater wrote:
Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup. They should be notified about the installation of any heat-producing appliance. You need to comply with any smoke-free zones (approved appliances only). If a neighbour complains, that will bring the Local Authority sniffing around for certificates. Look on the HETAS website. There are loads of requirements, more than anyone could list here. |
Installing a woodburner
On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote:
On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote: pedantry Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances". /pedantry No, I mean the Building Regulations, Approved Document, Part J (Heat producing appliances). http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/bui...cuments/partj/ OK with you? |
Installing a woodburner
On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote:
On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote: pedantry Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances". /pedantry No, I mean the Building Regulations, Approved Document, Part J (Heat producing appliances). http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/bui...cuments/partj/ That OK with you? On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote: On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote: On Saturday, February 1, 2014 1:11:03 PM UTC, Tim Streater wrote: Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup. They should be notified about the installation of any heat-producing appliance. pedantry Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances". /pedantry -- Today is Prickle-Prickle, the 34th day of Chaos in the YOLD 3180 "Mistake Not My Current State Of Joshing Gentle Peevishness For The Awesome And Terrible Majesty Of The Towering Seas Of Ire That Are Themselves The Milquetoast Shallows Fringing My Vast Oceans Of Wrath" On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote: On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote: On Saturday, February 1, 2014 1:11:03 PM UTC, Tim Streater wrote: Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup. They should be notified about the installation of any heat-producing appliance. pedantry Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances". /pedantry -- Today is Prickle-Prickle, the 34th day of Chaos in the YOLD 3180 "Mistake Not My Current State Of Joshing Gentle Peevishness For The Awesome And Terrible Majesty Of The Towering Seas Of Ire That Are Themselves The Milquetoast Shallows Fringing My Vast Oceans Of Wrath" |
Installing a woodburner
Shurely shome mistakes...
"Approved Document J -Combustion appliances and Fuel Storage systems" ;-) Jim K |
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