I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years.

I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace.. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed?

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.?

Cheers

Peter

On 01/02/2014 12:09, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood
burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides
our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with
a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't
used for many years.

I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that
fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the
brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test
is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood
burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do
Building Control have to be informed?

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations,
laws etc.?

Cheers

Peter


I think it's assumed a property of that age is likely to need a flue,
and they are hellishly expensive for some reason. I suppose if a chimney
sweep does the test and gives you the ok, you could go ahead without the
flue. That's what happened with the open fire in my son's house, but
that's 30s built.

On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 04:09:55 -0800 (PST)
puffernutter wrote:

I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood
burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides
our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with
a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't
used for many years.

I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that
fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the
brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test
is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood
burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do
Building Control have to be informed?

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations,
laws etc.?

Cheers

Peter


The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should know.
As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the massive costs
of installing a new flue for my thatched property, the problem is the
high temperatures created in the flue of a wood-burning stove, much
higher than those of a wood fire, and which are more likely to set fire
to roof timbers.
Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the
burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do with
the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your insurance
company will instantly check for the flue liner, and certificate, as
soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find them, will invalidate
your cover.

Just my opinion.

--
Davey.

On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 04:09:55 -0800 (PST), puffernutter wrote:

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws
etc.?

Look at the relevant building regs that are online in the "planning
portal"? Google will find 'em...

I don't think a liner is an absolute must but you'd have to be pretty
sure that the chimney is sound and stays that way. Woodburners flue
gases are also hotter and not diluted with air like those from an
open fire. There may be longer term problems due to tar condensation
in a relatively cold and high thermal mass chimney.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article , Davey
writes

The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should know.
As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the massive costs
of installing a new flue for my thatched property, the problem is the
high temperatures created in the flue of a wood-burning stove, much
higher than those of a wood fire, and which are more likely to set fire
to roof timbers.

Why would a gas installer know the requirements for a woodburner?

Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the
burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do with
the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your insurance
company will instantly check for the flue liner, and certificate, as
soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find them, will invalidate
your cover.

You're talking out of your arse.

Just my opinion.

And exceptionally badly informed.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Saturday 01 February 2014 12:09 puffernutter wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood
burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our
central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a
open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used
for many years.

I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.

You could just get the gas disconnected and capped. Then remove the fire
yourself.

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that
fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

Sounds about right - *most* of that is the liner.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the
brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is
OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner?

That depends on lots of things - condition of existing flue, cross
sectional area vs the stove manufacturer's requirements of the same
(this should be in the installer handbook for the stove, often
downloadable online).

Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building
Control have to be informed?

Yes or yes respectively.

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations,
laws etc.?

In short:

1) Combustion - meet the requirements for combustable materials being
the required distance from the stove and anything connected with the
hearth area WRT to rest of the floor (eg carpets).

2) Flue;

3) Ventilation - possibly you may need a vent in that room.

The installer's handbook for the stove sometimes summarises the
requirements or a common subset of them.

Otherwise, flick through the building regulations Approved Documents
online (google).



Personally, I would:

Get the gas fitter to cap the gas off;

Remove fire myself and make good the hearth and fire opening.

Ring up the nearest HETAS fitter as I think you'll pay around £200-300
over the parts for the actual labour and he gets to clamber on the roof,
bugger about swearing at fittings and bends in the flue and best of all,
you get a nice shiney certificate at the end to keep your insurers happy


In otherwords, do all the prep and sub out the really fiddly bit

You can take his advice before hand on whether the room needs a vent and
do that yourself like I did too. But have it done before he installs
everything or else he may not be able to sign off.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

On Saturday 01 February 2014 13:11 Tim Streater wrote in uk.d-i-y:

In article ,
puffernutter wrote:

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that
fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the
brick flue
and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I
have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner?

Don't think BC need be involved.

They do unless a HETAS bloke certifies the work.

But if you don't have a proper flue
and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue
won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

On 01/02/2014 12:09, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years.

I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed?

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.?

Cheers

Peter

I'm not an expert but when I moved into my current house 6 years ago it
had a wood-burning stove but no flue liner.

It was a disaster.

Obviously the chimney was in no fit state and tar stains and
condensation damp ruined the upstairs decorations, plaster and carpet
and the top of the corresponding downstairs wall doesn't bear looking at.

I've had a flue liner and vermiculite insulation installed (cost: £900)
and the situation is vastly improved, although it's only 5 months ago
and the walls haven't quite dried out.

None of this may apply in your case but it's a cautionary tale.

Another Dave

On Saturday 01 February 2014 15:28 Another Dave wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Obviously the chimney was in no fit state and tar stains and
condensation damp ruined the upstairs decorations, plaster and carpet
and the top of the corresponding downstairs wall doesn't bear looking
at.

*If* that should ever come back, here's my dad's solution (from an oil-
boiler flue that caused similar):

Cut plaster off the affected area back to brick. Sock out any tar with
tissue paper soaked in sugar soap - repeat over a week, leaving tissue
paper stuck to brick until dry. That draws some out.

Render with a 3:1 sand cement mix as the plaster "undercoat". It's less
permeable than plaster.

Seal that (he didn't, I would)

Skim plaster.



There may be more modern ways, but his way worked. Hopefully you will
not need to as it is no longer wet - or some surface sealer might be
enough (SBR might work here).


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

On 01/02/2014 15:40, Tim Watts wrote:

Cut plaster off the affected area back to brick. Sock out any tar with
tissue paper soaked in sugar soap - repeat over a week, leaving tissue
paper stuck to brick until dry. That draws some out.

Render with a 3:1 sand cement mix as the plaster "undercoat". It's less
permeable than plaster.

Seal that (he didn't, I would)

Skim plaster.



Thanks. I'm hoping it won't come to that.

Another Dave

In article , Huge
writes
On 2014-02-01, fred wrote:
In article , Davey
writes

The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should know.
As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the massive costs
of installing a new flue for my thatched property, the problem is the
high temperatures created in the flue of a wood-burning stove, much
higher than those of a wood fire, and which are more likely to set fire
to roof timbers.

Why would a gas installer know the requirements for a woodburner?

Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the
burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do with
the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your insurance
company will instantly check for the flue liner, and certificate, as
soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find them, will invalidate
your cover.

You're talking out of your arse.

Just my opinion.

And exceptionally badly informed.

So you think people should gamble with their largest asset on the basis
of some anonymous ****** (in case of any doubt, that's you) on Usenet,
do you?

Charmed I'm sure hunney.

It's not a gamble to suggest that people treat unsubstantiated claims
about the insurance industry with caution.

Something like, "we're sorry that your house burned down, the fire
service have told us that the likely cause was an unattended chip pan in
the kitchen, but we are unable to pay your claim because we found that a
100W bulb in the bedroom was missing a CE mark" would be obvious
******** but no more or less credible than the poster's assertion on
wiring fires and flues.

You may note that I made no suggestion about the wisdom or otherwise of
installing an appropriate flue. Personally I would view it as foolish
not to install a twinwall insulated flue in the circumstances described
but the purpose of my post was to put on record a warning not to accept
unqualified advice from a gas installer and to dispute inaccurate
remarks about insurance, nothing else.

That done, future readers can draw their own conclusions..

HTH

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

"puffernutter" wrote in message
...
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with
back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating
needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with
those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years.

I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace.
I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue
and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to
fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS
engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed?

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws
etc.?

Cheers

Peter

You need the flue liner.
It helps prevent tar buildup.
Theremay be leaks/bad joints in the brickwork that could leak CO into the
house.
It helps the stove run more efficently.

It's quite normal for the flue to cost s much/more as the stove/woodburner.
I demolished my existing chimney and installed a freestanding Selkirk
Metalbestos chimney.

Also, think about getting a room sealed stove. You don't need to have
combustion air coming into the room.

And you need a CO detector/alarm.

On Saturday, 1 February 2014 12:09:55 UTC, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years.



I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.



I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.



I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed?



Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.?



Cheers



Peter

Have a look at this website:

http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/...s-north-wales/

I have no affiliation except that I'm considering installing a stove and this was a helpful source of info.

On Saturday, February 1, 2014 2:52:58 PM UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
[lots of very sensible stuff]
In other words, do all the prep and sub out the really fiddly bit
+1

On 01/02/2014 12:09, puffernutter wrote:
I live in an 1890 Victorian terrace. The dining room has a wood burner with back boiler (and a stainless steel flue) that provides our central heating needs. The front room has an open fireplace with a open gas fire (with those heat resistant blocks) that we haven't used for many years.

I plan to get the gas fire removed by a certified gas engineer.

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.

I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the brick flue and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner? Do I have to get a HETAS engineer involved, if not, do Building Control have to be informed?

Very simply, what do I HAVE to do to meet any building regulations, laws etc.?

You don't have to but you need to consider the possible consequences if
you don't. These include, in no particular order, the fact that it might
invalidate your insurance and make the property impossible to sell in
future until the job is done properly. The safety aspect should be
obvious. Wood burners generate a lot of heat so the correct flue really
is essential. Common sense should tell you that you need to bite the
bullet an get the flue professionally installed.



--
Peter Crosland

On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 16:24:35 +0000
fred wrote:

In article , Huge
writes
On 2014-02-01, fred wrote:
In article , Davey
writes

The Certified Gas Engineer who removes the existing fire should
know. As far as I know myself, having decided not to pay the
massive costs of installing a new flue for my thatched property,
the problem is the high temperatures created in the flue of a
wood-burning stove, much higher than those of a wood fire, and
which are more likely to set fire to roof timbers.

Why would a gas installer know the requirements for a woodburner?

Consider this: You don't install a flue liner, and do install the
burner. The house then catches fire, even if it has nothing to do
with the wood burner (say, a faulty electrical connection). Your
insurance company will instantly check for the flue liner, and
certificate, as soon as it sees the burner, and if it doesn't find
them, will invalidate your cover.

You're talking out of your arse.

Just my opinion.

And exceptionally badly informed.

So you think people should gamble with their largest asset on the
basis of some anonymous ****** (in case of any doubt, that's you) on
Usenet, do you?

Charmed I'm sure hunney.

It's not a gamble to suggest that people treat unsubstantiated claims
about the insurance industry with caution.

Something like, "we're sorry that your house burned down, the fire
service have told us that the likely cause was an unattended chip pan
in the kitchen, but we are unable to pay your claim because we found
that a 100W bulb in the bedroom was missing a CE mark" would be
obvious ******** but no more or less credible than the poster's
assertion on wiring fires and flues.

You may note that I made no suggestion about the wisdom or otherwise
of installing an appropriate flue. Personally I would view it as
foolish not to install a twinwall insulated flue in the circumstances
described but the purpose of my post was to put on record a warning
not to accept unqualified advice from a gas installer and to dispute
inaccurate remarks about insurance, nothing else.

That done, future readers can draw their own conclusions..

HTH


Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that
readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth
taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water
damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from
melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't try
to wriggle put out of paying claims.
And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of
Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one we
had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove installation did.

--
Davey.

In article , Davey
writes

Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that
readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth
taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water
damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from
melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't try
to wriggle put out of paying claims.
And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of
Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one we
had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove installation did.

And that is the beauty of usenet, your unfettered right to reply.

However, when you say, "will invalidate your cover" as if it is fact in
the given context when it not, expect a robust correction from me.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 19:24:55 +0000
fred wrote:

In article , Davey
writes

Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that
readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth
taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water
damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from
melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't
try to wriggle put out of paying claims.
And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of
Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one
we had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove
installation did.

And that is the beauty of usenet, your unfettered right to reply.

However, when you say, "will invalidate your cover" as if it is fact
in the given context when it not, expect a robust correction from me.


Ok, I'll modify it:

"Could be used to invalidate your cover".

Better?

--
Davey.

In message , Tim Streater
writes
In article ,
puffernutter wrote:

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that
fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.
I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the
brick flue
and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I have to
fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner?

Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue
and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue
won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup.

There is fair bit of information on the wood burner vendor sites.
Obviously they have a vested interest. Also covered by building regs. J?

You need an air vent for 5+kW or so. When I fitted mine, BC supervised.
For a commercial installation you need a Hetas certified person.


--
Tim Lamb

On Saturday 01 February 2014 21:02 Tim Lamb wrote in uk.d-i-y:

In message , Tim Streater
writes
In article ,
puffernutter wrote:

I have a second wood burner that I should like to install in that
fireplace. I have been quoted over £800 to have a flue installed.
I can fit a plate (with a hole for the fire flue) to seal off the
brick flue
and I can perform a smoke test. Assuming the smoke test is OK, do I
have to fit a liner, or can I just install the wood burner?

Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue
and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue
won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup.

There is fair bit of information on the wood burner vendor sites.
Obviously they have a vested interest. Also covered by building regs.
J?

You need an air vent for 5+kW or so. When I fitted mine, BC
supervised. For a commercial installation you need a Hetas certified
person.

And you also now need a CO detector under building regs. I forgot that
earlier.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

On Saturday 01 February 2014 13:11 Tim Streater wrote in uk.d-i-y:


Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue
and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue
won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup.


This is, I believe, not correct:

(Page 6, Approved Doc J)

"In general, all work on a combustion appliance
which is not a repair or maintenance will be
notifiable work and Schedule 2B will not apply.
However, it might be possible to add a control
device to the appliance or to alter its electrical
connection under the allowance in this schedule.
Local authority building control departments can
give advice in cases of doubt."


If nothing else, the decision about whether to reuse a flue or to line,
and how to line with what is something that needs to be decided by
someone with competance.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

In article , Davey
writes
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 19:24:55 +0000
fred wrote:

In article , Davey
writes

Since I am not the only one to make a similar warning, I think that
readers can indeed make their own conclusions. It's not a risk worth
taking, in my view. I have had an insurer try to not pay up for water
damage because 'the water was of the wrong type', ie it came from
melting snow, not under the door, so don't tell me that they don't
try to wriggle put out of paying claims.
And a qualified Gas Installer should know a lot about all aspects of
Heating systems. He will probably have a HETAS certificate. The one
we had in to estimate for our aborted wood burning stove
installation did.

And that is the beauty of usenet, your unfettered right to reply.

However, when you say, "will invalidate your cover" as if it is fact
in the given context when it not, expect a robust correction from me.


Ok, I'll modify it:

"Could be used to invalidate your cover".

Better?

Not if you want to stick to your example :-).

If you had an electrical fire that burned down your home then the
certification of your woodburner flue would have no bearing on your
claim.

If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial ombudsman
service would wipe the floor with them.

If, alternatively, you put a woodburner in an inadequate flue and burnt
your house down as a result of your own negligence then I'd expect at
least a very close examination of the terms of your cover and most
likely a spit roasting of your body over the ashes of your home by the
insurer's loss adjuster.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 22:32:09 +0000
fred wrote:

If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial
ombudsman service would wipe the floor with them.

You have more faith in them than I do, then.

--
Davey.

On Saturday, 1 February 2014 23:48:15 UTC, Davey wrote:
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 22:32:09 +0000

fred wrote:



If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial

ombudsman service would wipe the floor with them.



You have more faith in them than I do, then.



--

Davey.

Thank you all for taking the time to reply. After the gas was disconnected I was planning to do all the work needed to remove the gas fire and install the wood burner (I did that for the larger one we have) and after all the comments I'll follow the same plan and get a "man in" to install the flue and put vermiculite around it.

Cheers

Peter

On Sunday 02 February 2014 08:12 puffernutter wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Saturday, 1 February 2014 23:48:15 UTC, Davey wrote:
On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 22:32:09 +0000

fred wrote:



If your insurer tried to make it an issue then the financial

ombudsman service would wipe the floor with them.



You have more faith in them than I do, then.



--

Davey.

Thank you all for taking the time to reply. After the gas was
disconnected I was planning to do all the work needed to remove the
gas fire and install the wood burner (I did that for the larger one we
have) and after all the comments I'll follow the same plan and get a
"man in" to install the flue and put vermiculite around it.

Cheers

Peter

The vermulite is optional, depending.

I do not have any (HETAS installed liner) and it's useful the brock flue
gets warm as it becomes a central source of stored heat.

However, it's a bunglow - short flue. It may be decided by your HETAS
bloke that vermulite is a good idea. Just saying don;t worry if he does
not recommend it.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

On Saturday, February 1, 2014 1:11:03 PM UTC, Tim Streater wrote:

Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue

and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue

won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup.


They should be notified about the installation of any heat-producing appliance.

You need to comply with any smoke-free zones (approved appliances only). If a neighbour complains, that will bring the Local Authority sniffing around for certificates.

Look on the HETAS website. There are loads of requirements, more than anyone could list here.

On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote:
On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote:


pedantry



Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances".



/pedantry

No, I mean the Building Regulations, Approved Document, Part J (Heat producing appliances).

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/bui...cuments/partj/

OK with you?

On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote:
On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote:


pedantry



Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances".



/pedantry

No, I mean the Building Regulations, Approved Document, Part J (Heat producing appliances).

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/bui...cuments/partj/

That OK with you?


On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote:
On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote:

On Saturday, February 1, 2014 1:11:03 PM UTC, Tim Streater wrote:



Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue



and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue



won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup.





They should be notified about the installation of any heat-producing appliance.



pedantry



Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances".



/pedantry





--

Today is Prickle-Prickle, the 34th day of Chaos in the YOLD 3180

"Mistake Not My Current State Of Joshing Gentle Peevishness For The

Awesome And Terrible Majesty Of The Towering Seas Of Ire That Are

Themselves The Milquetoast Shallows Fringing My Vast Oceans Of Wrath"



On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:40:13 AM UTC, Huge wrote:
On 2014-02-03, Onetap wrote:

On Saturday, February 1, 2014 1:11:03 PM UTC, Tim Streater wrote:



Don't think BC need be involved. But if you don't have a proper flue



and have it insulated with such as vermiculite, then AIUI your flue



won't get hot enough to prevent tar buildup.





They should be notified about the installation of any heat-producing appliance.



pedantry



Hardly. All appliances produce heat. Perhaps you mean "heating appliances".



/pedantry





--

Today is Prickle-Prickle, the 34th day of Chaos in the YOLD 3180

"Mistake Not My Current State Of Joshing Gentle Peevishness For The

Awesome And Terrible Majesty Of The Towering Seas Of Ire That Are

Themselves The Milquetoast Shallows Fringing My Vast Oceans Of Wrath"

Shurely shome mistakes...

"Approved Document J -Combustion appliances and Fuel Storage systems"

;-)

Jim K