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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter
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#2
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
On 24/01/2014 23:55, wrote:
Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No Could be... experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter Makitas usually have brush change ports visible on either side of the case near the back - typically round and black with a slot for a coin or screwdriver to turn and release each brush cover. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#3
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
On 25/01/2014 01:35, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/01/2014 23:55, wrote: Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No Could be... experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter Makitas usually have brush change ports visible on either side of the case near the back - typically round and black with a slot for a coin or screwdriver to turn and release each brush cover. Only the 'proper' Makitas. The ones the sheds sell don't have that. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#4
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
A sure sign that the brushes are going is excessive sparking prior to failure. Did you experience that?
Richard |
#5
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
On Friday, January 24, 2014 11:55:34 PM UTC, wrote:
Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter Thanks John - mine doesn't seem to have those - suppose I will have to crack open the body - do you think brushes are the likely culprit? Peter |
#6
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
wrote in message
... On Friday, January 24, 2014 11:55:34 PM UTC, wrote: Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter Thanks John - mine doesn't seem to have those - suppose I will have to crack open the body - do you think brushes are the likely culprit? Peter This any good? http://www.toolstop.co.uk/how-to-cha...l-driver-a1329 If not, try searching with the model number, thus: https://www.google.co.uk/#q=replacin...drill+driv er |
#7
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
Are you sure it's not the battery that's at fault?
Richard |
#8
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 02:12:11 -0800 (PST), Tricky Dicky
wrote: Are you sure it's not the battery that's at fault? - or the charger? |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
On 25/01/2014 02:00, wrote:
On Friday, January 24, 2014 11:55:34 PM UTC, wrote: Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter Thanks John - mine doesn't seem to have those - suppose I will have to crack open the body - do you think brushes are the likely culprit? Peter How much use has it had? Mine is still on its first set after ten years of intermittent heavy use. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#10
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
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#11
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
On Friday, January 24, 2014 11:55:34 PM UTC, wrote:
Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter Thanks for suggestions. The thing was not sparking, and went from running well to nothing. The batteries and charger are ok I think. Perhaps something has failed in the gearbox - if there is such a thing? Will check brushes first though... |
#12
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My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
wrote in message
... Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter 1) Check voltage at battery terminals.. 18v is a clue. No voltage means dead cell of broken link wire, or charger kaput. Check output on charger. If charger has a tell tale LED for charging what is it doing when you insert the battery ? (Read the legend on the charger for details of LED status lights) 2) Check the terminals inside the drill for the battery, not uncommon for a link lead to break away. 3) Shell cases are easy to work with, BUT Makita have the chuck held on with a left hand threaded screw usually at the base of the chuck inside, you *might* need to remove this first to open the case. 4) There is a thermal overload inside, in 30 years I've never changed one, but have had issues with brushes sticking 5) You may need to drill through the side of the casing behind the chuck with a 4mm drill through to the chuck spindle to put a dowel into the hole to hold the spindle still while you remove the screw in the chuck (This is a proper Makita technique) 6) If the chuck turns by hand and you can see the commutator turning there is nothing wrong with the gearbox (If twin speed type drill) 7) Did I mention I have been Makita trained ;-) |
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