Wossa difference between a drain cock type A & a drain cock type B?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article ,
The Medway Handyman writes:
Wossa difference between a drain cock type A & a drain cock type B?

I think the Type B has no shaft seal so water may come out of
the shaft end when opened. Not a good idea if fitted indoors
with the expectation of coupling up to a hose to prevent spillage.
OTOH, these tend to be opened so infrequently that the chances of
the shaft seal still working on a Type A when you need it are not
all that high (it's usually an O-ring which will have hardened
and split after some years).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 17/08/2013 20:31, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Wossa difference between a drain cock type A & a drain cock type B?

The more expensive one has an o ring that stops it leaking out of the
spindle when you open it. So never use the cheap ones inside or where
you care if water gets spilled.

--
Cheers,

John.

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On Saturday, 17 August 2013 20:31:34 UTC+1, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Wossa difference between a drain cock type A & a drain cock type B?





--

Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On the light-pattern (type A, I think), the internal gubbins can be unscrewed and completely removed - so it can be soldered.

On the heavy pattern, the gubbins are captive and soldering may damage the seal.

On Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:25:28 PM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/08/2013 20:31, The Medway Handyman wrote:



Wossa difference between a drain cock type A & a drain cock type B?



The more expensive one has an o ring that stops it leaking out of the

spindle when you open it. So never use the cheap ones inside or where

you care if water gets spilled.


Correct, but they're still both crap.

Put in a lockshield full-bore ball valve, with a cap.
You get much faster drain down and more crud entrained in the water stream.

The traditional drain-cocks are a hang-over from the pre-ball valve times, as are gate valves.

On 19/08/2013 00:26, Onetap wrote:
On Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:25:28 PM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/08/2013 20:31, The Medway Handyman wrote:



Wossa difference between a drain cock type A & a drain cock type B?



The more expensive one has an o ring that stops it leaking out of the

spindle when you open it. So never use the cheap ones inside or where

you care if water gets spilled.


Correct, but they're still both crap.

Put in a lockshield full-bore ball valve, with a cap.
You get much faster drain down and more crud entrained in the water stream.

The traditional drain-cocks are a hang-over from the pre-ball valve times, as are gate valves.

For CH systems I normally stick in a full bore service valve and pipe
the output of it through a wall into a gully. That way you get mess free
drain down and no need to tit about with lengths of hose.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 19/08/2013 00:26, Onetap wrote:
On Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:25:28 PM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/08/2013 20:31, The Medway Handyman wrote:



Wossa difference between a drain cock type A & a drain cock type B?



The more expensive one has an o ring that stops it leaking out of the

spindle when you open it. So never use the cheap ones inside or where

you care if water gets spilled.


Correct, but they're still both crap.

Put in a lockshield full-bore ball valve, with a cap.
You get much faster drain down and more crud entrained in the water stream.

The traditional drain-cocks are a hang-over from the pre-ball valve times, as are gate valves.

Good points, but this is to drain down the pipework for an outside tap.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

For CH systems I normally stick in a full bore service valve and pipe
the output of it through a wall into a gully. That way you get mess
free drain down and no need to tit about with lengths of hose.



Brilliant - should be mandated by anyone having a system installed or
updated.

On 19/08/2013 10:13, DerbyBorn wrote:

For CH systems I normally stick in a full bore service valve and pipe
the output of it through a wall into a gully. That way you get mess
free drain down and no need to tit about with lengths of hose.



Brilliant - should be mandated by anyone having a system installed or
updated.

You would think it would be obvious - but its so rarely done...

At least in this place they took the traditional hose connected drain
valve, and poked it through the wall outside, so although you still need
a length of hose to get it to a gully, its only got the lawn to drip on.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Monday, August 19, 2013 10:13:06 AM UTC+1, DerbyBorn wrote:

(John Rumm wrote)
For CH systems I normally stick in a full bore service valve and pipe
the output of it through a wall into a gully. That way you get mess
free drain down and no need to tit about with lengths of hose.


Brilliant - should be mandated by anyone having a system installed or
updated.

Best done right at the beginning, I reckon - for example, for my mother's house retrofitting it would mean digging up the woodblock floor, while if they'd thought of it initially it could have joined all the other pipes running underneath...
Of course, the lowest point on my CH is below ground level in the cellar, so I'm stuffed anyway.