Apols if this shows up twice but I thought I had posted this yesterday!

I'm having an artist’s studio built in the garden. It's for my wife - she paints.

The building is 6M x 4M, is on a concrete base and will be 4x2 construction on 400mm centres with builders paper & shiplap on the outside. 50mm Celotex between the 4x2 and roof beams.

What are the pros/cons of the options for the internal walls/ceiling?

Initially I was thinking of cladding the walls and ceiling with ply and painting them. A bit utilitarian but probably good enough for the purpose.

Recently I have been considering plastering, but I'm concerned that being a wooden construction it might move a little and cause cracks. Am I worrying unnecessarily?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks,
RzB

The ceiling of my garden workshop (adapted from a sectional concrete garage)
is white PVC tongued-and-grooved cladding glued to battens. It's easy to
fix, needs no painting or other treatment, and makes a pleasantly bright
environment which I would have thought good for an artist's studio.

On Thursday, June 27, 2013 11:03:28 AM UTC+1, RzB wrote:

Apols if this shows up twice but I thought I had posted this yesterday!
I'm having an artist’s studio built in the garden. It's for my wife - she paints.
The building is 6M x 4M, is on a concrete base and will be 4x2 construction on 400mm centres with builders paper & shiplap on the outside. 50mm Celotex between the 4x2 and roof beams.
What are the pros/cons of the options for the internal walls/ceiling?
Initially I was thinking of cladding the walls and ceiling with ply and painting them. A bit utilitarian but probably good enough for the purpose.
Recently I have been considering plastering, but I'm concerned that being a wooden construction it might move a little and cause cracks. Am I worrying unnecessarily?
Any other thoughts?
Thanks,
RzB

Why avoid plasterboard? It seems the logical solution. Cheap, white, good enough. If she fills the cracks it can even look fairly good.


NT

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 03:47:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Why avoid plasterboard?

It doesn't like damp... Unless this studio is heated to some extent
in winter it will get damp. The space will then feel damp/clammy/cold
for much longer until the PB dries out.

Ply maybe expensive but it will be easier to fix things to like
shelves.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thursday, June 27, 2013 11:18:53 PM UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 03:47:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Why avoid plasterboard?

It doesn't like damp... Unless this studio is heated to some extent
in winter it will get damp. The space will then feel damp/clammy/cold
for much longer until the PB dries out.

dehumidifier

Ply maybe expensive but it will be easier to fix things to like
shelves.

Yes, but shelves one can fix to the uprights anyway. I would expect an artist would probably prefer a clean white surface to a grotty wood one.


NT

On 28/06/2013 08:27, wrote:
On Thursday, June 27, 2013 11:18:53 PM UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 03:47:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Why avoid plasterboard?

It doesn't like damp... Unless this studio is heated to some extent
in winter it will get damp. The space will then feel damp/clammy/cold
for much longer until the PB dries out.

dehumidifier

If it's going to be used in winter as a studio, it will need heating,
surely? Otherwise, the paint won't dry, as well as the artist being
cold. Consequently, I'd be looking for very high values of insulation,
to keep the heating costs more or less manageable.

Many thanks to all who have responded.

I think I have decided to go with plaster board & a skim. I'm hoping that will give it a very nice look...

The structure is 4x2 on 400mm centres so I agree that there are plenty of uprights to fix cupboards to. There will be 50mm Celotex all round - floor, walls and ceiling - so I think that's pretty good insulation? There will be some form of heating running over the winter - electric radiators and fan heaters. I do also have a couple of industrial grade dehumidifiers if things get nasty!

The 4x2 structure and roof beams have now been constructed and I'm amazed just how stiff it all is. The carpenter added diagonal bracing that made a huge difference to the stiffness.

I'm just a bit worried that a wooden structure like this will move over time and cause the plaster to crack - but I think I have now decided to go for it and get the Polyfiller out if I have made a mistake!

Thanks,
RzB

On Friday, June 28, 2013 8:27:39 AM UTC+1, wrote:
On Thursday, June 27, 2013 11:18:53 PM UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 03:47:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



Why avoid plasterboard?



It doesn't like damp... Unless this studio is heated to some extent

in winter it will get damp. The space will then feel damp/clammy/cold

for much longer until the PB dries out.



dehumidifier



Ply maybe expensive but it will be easier to fix things to like

shelves.



Yes, but shelves one can fix to the uprights anyway. I would expect an artist would probably prefer a clean white surface to a grotty wood one.





NT

shurely an artist can paint ply whatever colour she wants?

Jim K

On Thursday, June 27, 2013 11:18:53 PM UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 03:47:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



Why avoid plasterboard?



It doesn't like damp... Unless this studio is heated to some extent

in winter it will get damp. The space will then feel damp/clammy/cold

for much longer until the PB dries out.



Ply maybe expensive but it will be easier to fix things to like

shelves.



--

Cheers

Dave.

We live in a mill with an open archway you drive through. The ceiling of the arch is plaster-boarded and painted with external paint. Five years later it is fine despite constant exposure to moist air.

Jonathan

On 03/07/13 12:32, Jonathan wrote:
On Thursday, June 27, 2013 11:18:53 PM UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 03:47:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



Why avoid plasterboard?


It doesn't like damp... Unless this studio is heated to some extent

in winter it will get damp. The space will then feel damp/clammy/cold

for much longer until the PB dries out.



Ply maybe expensive but it will be easier to fix things to like

shelves.



--

Cheers

Dave.
We live in a mill with an open archway you drive through. The ceiling of the arch is plaster-boarded and painted with external paint. Five years later it is fine despite constant exposure to moist air.

Jonathan

What most people don't realise is that outside is often less damp than
inside. Only when something actually gets rained ON and STAYS damp is
it actually 'more damp' than inside.
In summer RH levels inside a house can be a lot HIGHER than outside.
Only in winter when the heating is on, do internal RH levels do
significantly.

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

In article , RzB
writes
Apols if this shows up twice but I thought I had posted this yesterday!

Not seen another copy, just your previous post about the floor. I notice
that didn't get much of a response so I will put in my vote for a wooden
floor (of whatever kind) over celotex, lower thermal mass so faster
warmup for those cooler spells. If the budget will stretch then I would
put in a well sealed engineered wood floor and if it is paint that is in
use then the odd unwipeable splodge will add character.

I'm having an artists studio built in the garden. It's for my wife - she paints.

The building is 6M x 4M, is on a concrete base and will be 4x2 construction on
400mm centres with builders paper & shiplap on the outside. 50mm Celotex
between the 4x2 and roof beams.

What are the pros/cons of the options for the internal walls/ceiling?

Initially I was thinking of cladding the walls and ceiling with ply and painting them.
A bit utilitarian but probably good enough for the purpose.

Recently I have been considering plastering, but I'm concerned that being a wooden
construction it might move a little and cause cracks. Am I worrying unnecessarily?

Ply is expensive (5x cost of PB) and IMO will look rougher than
plasterboard even with cracks. Provided you have a waterproof structure
I would use 12mm taper edge plasterboard throughout, 12mm is much nicer
and more solid than 8 and will result in a far less utilitarian, softer
look than ply. Taper edge means you can you can finish it easily with
fine jointing compound using a purpose made 9-12" filling blade (no need
to skim). Fibreglass scrim tape should minimise cracking and although I
have not done it this way, another here has suggested gapping the boards
by about 3mm to get a good fillet of jointing between then to add to the
key and reduce cracking.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .