eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999

I recall these being described as pants here in the past but I have a
couple of large (130 odd mm) holes to make in the back of some thin
backed self assembly wardrobes and they could save time and mess over a
jigsaw.

I'd probably use it with a battery powered drill driver on slow speed
but could probably locate a brace and bit style tool if that would be
better.

Any opinions?
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 24/04/2013 21:38, fred wrote:
eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999

I recall these being described as pants here in the past but I have a
couple of large (130 odd mm) holes to make in the back of some thin
backed self assembly wardrobes and they could save time and mess over a
jigsaw.

I'd probably use it with a battery powered drill driver on slow speed
but could probably locate a brace and bit style tool if that would be
better.

Any opinions?

I have one, its OK but it can be hard to keep level.
I only did 50-70 mm holes with it, I would use a pillar drill if possible.

On 24/04/2013 21:38, fred wrote:
eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999

I recall these being described as pants here in the past but I have a
couple of large (130 odd mm) holes to make in the back of some thin
backed self assembly wardrobes and they could save time and mess over a
jigsaw.

I'd probably use it with a battery powered drill driver on slow speed
but could probably locate a brace and bit style tool if that would be
better.

Any opinions?

Not sure about that one. I have an Armeg one which I'm generally
impressed with. The Toolstation one doesn't look nearly as well made
but, since it's cheap and you only want to cut hardboard, it might be
worth a punt.

I found mine works best in a big SDS drill running moderately fast. That
way it doesn't tend to catch so much. You still need strong arms though.
Approach the work very slowly and watch where the score mark starts to
appear so you can adjust the angle to get it perfectly perpendicular.

Don't get carried away with it. I did, and this happened to my lounge
ceiling.

http://www.stamp.plus.com/Photos/loungeCeiling.JPG

Cheers,

Colin.

In message , Colin
Stamp writes
On 24/04/2013 21:38, fred wrote:
eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999

I recall these being described as pants here in the past but I have a
couple of large (130 odd mm) holes to make in the back of some thin
backed self assembly wardrobes and they could save time and mess over a
jigsaw.

I'd probably use it with a battery powered drill driver on slow speed
but could probably locate a brace and bit style tool if that would be
better.

Any opinions?

Not sure about that one. I have an Armeg one which I'm generally
impressed with. The Toolstation one doesn't look nearly as well made
but, since it's cheap and you only want to cut hardboard, it might be
worth a punt.

I found mine works best in a big SDS drill running moderately fast. That
way it doesn't tend to catch so much. You still need strong arms though.
Approach the work very slowly and watch where the score mark starts to
appear so you can adjust the angle to get it perfectly perpendicular.

Don't get carried away with it. I did, and this happened to my lounge
ceiling.

http://www.stamp.plus.com/Photos/loungeCeiling.JPG

Eek ... that's some mouse infestation there

--
geoff

On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 21:38:07 +0100, fred wrote:

eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999
snip
Any opinions?

Looking at it setup of the two cutting points might be fun to get them
both cutting at the same radius. Might not be that critical, just a small
flag being waved. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article , fred writes
eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999

I recall these being described as pants here in the past but I have a
couple of large (130 odd mm) holes to make in the back of some thin
backed self assembly wardrobes and they could save time and mess over a
jigsaw.

I'd probably use it with a battery powered drill driver on slow speed
but could probably locate a brace and bit style tool if that would be
better.

Thanks to all, reservations noted, I will prob give it a punt and report
back on the results.

Particular thanks to Colin for the view of his Whack-a-mole[1] game :-)

[1] Beaver?
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 25/04/13 10:37, fred wrote:
In article , fred writes
eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999

I recall these being described as pants here in the past but I have a
couple of large (130 odd mm) holes to make in the back of some thin
backed self assembly wardrobes and they could save time and mess over a
jigsaw.

I'd probably use it with a battery powered drill driver on slow speed
but could probably locate a brace and bit style tool if that would be
better.

Thanks to all, reservations noted, I will prob give it a punt and
report back on the results.


flycutters work, but due to the inherent unbalance of the things should
always be run at low RPM.

Particular thanks to Colin for the view of his Whack-a-mole[1] game :-)

[1] Beaver?


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 10:56:26 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

flycutters work, but due to the inherent unbalance of the things should
always be run at low RPM.

The one linked to is symmetrical so shouldn't be unbalanced when rotating
in free air. Once it starts cutting though keeping it square so each
cutter takes the same amount is going to be the hard bit. I think
reasonable RPM will be needed but very little push.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 25/04/13 11:01, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 10:56:26 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

flycutters work, but due to the inherent unbalance of the things should
always be run at low RPM.
The one linked to is symmetrical

"can be set up infinitely carefully to be *almost* symmetrical"

You are talking to a model aircraft man here, and we all know here how
to balance a propellor by carefully sanding off a few microns here and
there. Or how much difference an uneven coat of paint makes.




so shouldn't be unbalanced when rotating
in free air. Once it starts cutting though keeping it square so each
cutter takes the same amount is going to be the hard bit. I think
reasonable RPM will be needed but very little push.


120 RPM max for that beast,

Less on a big cut

I have both made, and used these things on pillar drills.. if you want a
clean cut keep the cutter speed slow.


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 09:18:06 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 21:38:07 +0100, fred wrote:

eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999
snip
Any opinions?

Looking at it setup of the two cutting points might be fun to get them
both cutting at the same radius. Might not be that critical, just a small
flag being waved. B-)

I used one recently to cut a series of hardboard discs (don't ask!)
and found that setting the blades slightly apart, so that one cutter
was cleaning out the slot behind the other cutter, worked best for me.

Nick

On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 11:35:53 +0100, Nick Odell
wrote:

On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 09:18:06 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 21:38:07 +0100, fred wrote:

eg: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p44999
snip
Any opinions?

Looking at it setup of the two cutting points might be fun to get them
both cutting at the same radius. Might not be that critical, just a small
flag being waved. B-)

I used one recently to cut a series of hardboard discs (don't ask!)
and found that setting the blades slightly apart, so that one cutter
was cleaning out the slot behind the other cutter, worked best for me.

PS Definitely loads easier in a pillar drill.

Nick

On 25/04/2013 11:23, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

120 RPM max for that beast,

Less on a big cut

I have both made, and used these things on pillar drills.. if you want a
clean cut keep the cutter speed slow.

A low speed might work well in a pillar drill but if you have to use it
hand-held as I did for my ceiling holes, then too slow-a-speed just
makes for copious amounts of comedy snagging, arm wrenching, step ladder
wobbling and swearing. Higher speeds cut that down *massively*.

After experimenting, I ended up using a big, Chinese, mains SDS drill
set to around two-thirds full speed. Most of the holes were relatively
painless then...

Cheers,

Colin.

On 24/04/2013 23:42, geoff wrote:
In message , Colin
Stamp writes

Don't get carried away with it. I did, and this happened to my lounge
ceiling.

http://www.stamp.plus.com/Photos/loungeCeiling.JPG

Eek ... that's some mouse infestation there


I did wonder where all the cheese kept going )

Cheers,

Colin.