Does anyone know what size of hex key I should use to remove this gas test
point plug. It's in a motorhome just in case that makes any difference.
The motorhome is 16 years old so I'm not sure whether its likely to be
metric or AF. It's bigger than any of my regular keys.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps301c3dc1.jpg

Next question, will a standard test point nipple screw into it? One like
this?

http://www.plumbingsuppliesandfittin...duct--332.html

TIA

Tim

Tim+ wrote:
Does anyone know what size of hex key I should use to remove this gas test
point plug. It's in a motorhome just in case that makes any difference.
The motorhome is 16 years old so I'm not sure whether its likely to be
metric or AF. It's bigger than any of my regular keys.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps301c3dc1.jpg

Next question, will a standard test point nipple screw into it? One like
this?

http://www.plumbingsuppliesandfittin...duct--332.html

TIA

Tim

Okay, I've got the plug out now (8mm hex for anyone interested) but the
resulting 'ole is much bigger than a standard 1/8" test nipple.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psebafc7c8.jpg

The plug itself is about 15mm across and 10mm long and the thread pitch
looks to be 1mm but I'm no expert on thread sizes.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psaaefa2de.jpg

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps243760bb.jpg

Would this be a 1/2" fitting? If so, would something like this fit for
testing purposes?

http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/acatalo...e_Tap er.html

I suspect that what I've unscrewed isn't meant to be a test point but short
of cutting the existing pipework, it's the only place I can find to do a
pressure test.

Tim

On Monday, April 15, 2013 3:38:14 PM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
snip

Okay, I've got the plug out now (8mm hex for anyone interested) but the
resulting 'ole is much bigger than a standard 1/8" test nipple.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psebafc7c8.jpg

The plug itself is about 15mm across and 10mm long and the thread pitch
looks to be 1mm but I'm no expert on thread sizes.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psaaefa2de.jpg

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps243760bb.jpg

Would this be a 1/2" fitting? If so, would something like this fit for
testing purposes?

http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/acatalo...e_Tap er.html

I suspect that what I've unscrewed isn't meant to be a test point but short
of cutting the existing pipework, it's the only place I can find to do a
pressure test.

Looking at the photo it actually looks a bit over 15mm - possibly it's 3/8 BSP (16.66 diameter, 1.337 pitch) in which case you should be able to get the part from the same supplier.

wrote:
On Monday, April 15, 2013 3:38:14 PM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
snip

Okay, I've got the plug out now (8mm hex for anyone interested) but the
resulting 'ole is much bigger than a standard 1/8" test nipple.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psebafc7c8.jpg

The plug itself is about 15mm across and 10mm long and the thread pitch
looks to be 1mm but I'm no expert on thread sizes.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psaaefa2de.jpg

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps243760bb.jpg

Would this be a 1/2" fitting? If so, would something like this fit for
testing purposes?

http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/acatalo...e_Tap er.html

I suspect that what I've unscrewed isn't meant to be a test point but short
of cutting the existing pipework, it's the only place I can find to do a
pressure test.

Looking at the photo it actually looks a bit over 15mm - possibly it's
3/8 BSP (16.66 diameter, 1.337 pitch) in which case you should be able to
get the part from the same supplier.

Got a hose connector from a hydraulic specialist in the end. Now I have to
play "hunt the tiny leak". :-(

I think at 1cm H2O in 10min it would be okay in a house but it's LPG in a
campervan alas.

Not too worried by it as there are plenty of "escape holes" in the floor
(unlike a boat) so I don't think it poses a huge threat. Would prefer a
zero drop though.

I can isolate the hob, fridge and oven okay but the are no stop valves on
the gas heater or the water heater so it's going to be a bit of a pain.

Tim

On 15/04/2013 17:31, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
On Monday, April 15, 2013 3:38:14 PM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
snip

Okay, I've got the plug out now (8mm hex for anyone interested) but the
resulting 'ole is much bigger than a standard 1/8" test nipple.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psebafc7c8.jpg

The plug itself is about 15mm across and 10mm long and the thread pitch
looks to be1mm but I'm no expert on thread sizes.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psaaefa2de.jpg

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps243760bb.jpg

Would this be a 1/2" fitting? If so, would something like this fit for
testing purposes?

http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/acatalo...e_Tap er.html

I suspect that what I've unscrewed isn't meant to be a test point but short
of cutting the existing pipework, it's the only place I can find to do a
pressure test.

Looking at the photo it actually looks a bit over 15mm - possibly it's
3/8 BSP (16.66 diameter, 1.337 pitch) in which case you should be able to
get the part from the same supplier.

Got a hose connector from a hydraulic specialist in the end. Now I have to
play "hunt the tiny leak". :-(

I think at 1cm H2O in 10min it would be okay in a house but it's LPG in a
campervan alas.

Not too worried by it as there are plenty of "escape holes" in the floor
(unlike a boat) so I don't think it poses a huge threat. Would prefer a
zero drop though.

I can isolate the hob, fridge and oven okay but the are no stop valves on
the gas heater or the water heater so it's going to be a bit of a pain.

Tim


Get a can of spray-on leak detector, and spray each joint in turn.
You'll see bubbles where the leak is.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Roger Mills wrote:
On 15/04/2013 17:31, Tim+ wrote:

I can isolate the hob, fridge and oven okay but the are no stop valves on
the gas heater or the water heater so it's going to be a bit of a pain.

Tim


Get a can of spray-on leak detector, and spray each joint in turn. You'll
see bubbles where the leak is.

Easier said than done for some joints in the van alas. The water heater
connection in particular was probably assembled before the heater was fully
installed and is almost completely inaccessible now.

Tim

On Mon, 15 Apr 2013 21:58:11 +0100, Tim+ wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
On 15/04/2013 17:31, Tim+ wrote:

I can isolate the hob, fridge and oven okay but the are no stop valves
on the gas heater or the water heater so it's going to be a bit of a
pain.

Tim


Get a can of spray-on leak detector, and spray each joint in turn.
You'll see bubbles where the leak is.

Easier said than done for some joints in the van alas. The water heater
connection in particular was probably assembled before the heater was
fully installed and is almost completely inaccessible now.

Tim

Any chance of retro-fitting stop valves to the gas and water heaters?

"David.WE.Roberts" wrote:
On Mon, 15 Apr 2013 21:58:11 +0100, Tim+ wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
On 15/04/2013 17:31, Tim+ wrote:

I can isolate the hob, fridge and oven okay but the are no stop valves
on the gas heater or the water heater so it's going to be a bit of a
pain.

Tim


Get a can of spray-on leak detector, and spray each joint in turn.
You'll see bubbles where the leak is.

Easier said than done for some joints in the van alas. The water heater
connection in particular was probably assembled before the heater was
fully installed and is almost completely inaccessible now.

Tim

Any chance of retro-fitting stop valves to the gas and water heaters?

Anything is possible. Whether it justifies the effort is another matter.
Remember that every stop valve adds up to three potential leak points to a
circuit, the union at each end and via the stem of the valve so I'm not a
huge fan of adding more potential leak sites than necessary.

Tim