I will be making up some fluorescent lights on top of the kitchen cabinets. I am getting dimmable high frequency ballasts from RS, and the dimming control is sorted out.
So the question is, what is the minimal wiring job I can do to connect the ballasts to the tubes that complies regs etc. ?
If I just get some end caps and some means of supporting the tube (those metal spring clips ?), and wire them to the ballasts (high-voltage cable ?), is that sufficient ?
I vaguely remember hearing something about needing an earth plane parallel to the tube (which would usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the ballast), but I have no idea why this would be required.
If it is, could I simply have some earthed foil running alongside the tube ?
Or perhaps earthing the metal tube support clips (say 3 along the length) would do ...
Simon.

In article ,
sm_jamieson writes

I vaguely remember hearing something about needing an earth plane parallel to
the tube (which would usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the
ballast), but I have no idea why this would be required.

It's to improve striking of the tube. You may very well find you don't
need it, especially with electronic ballasts.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Friday, December 7, 2012 11:07:08 AM UTC, sm_jamieson wrote:

I will be making up some fluorescent lights on top of the kitchen cabinets. I am getting dimmable high frequency ballasts from RS, and the dimming control is sorted out.

So the question is, what is the minimal wiring job I can do to connect the ballasts to the tubes that complies regs etc. ?

If I just get some end caps and some means of supporting the tube (those metal spring clips ?), and wire them to the ballasts (high-voltage cable ?), is that sufficient ?

yes, with mains flex

I vaguely remember hearing something about needing an earth plane parallel to the tube (which would usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the ballast), but I have no idea why this would be required.

its not normally. There are historic ballasts that needed it. If your modern one also does, which is unlikely, the destructions will say so, and probably earthing the tool clips would suffice.


NT

On Friday, December 7, 2012 12:06:59 PM UTC, wrote:
On Friday, December 7, 2012 11:07:08 AM UTC, sm_jamieson wrote:



I will be making up some fluorescent lights on top of the kitchen cabinets. I am getting dimmable high frequency ballasts from RS, and the dimming control is sorted out.



So the question is, what is the minimal wiring job I can do to connect the ballasts to the tubes that complies regs etc. ?



If I just get some end caps and some means of supporting the tube (those metal spring clips ?), and wire them to the ballasts (high-voltage cable ?), is that sufficient ?



yes, with mains flex



I vaguely remember hearing something about needing an earth plane parallel to the tube (which would usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the ballast), but I have no idea why this would be required.



its not normally. There are historic ballasts that needed it. If your modern one also does, which is unlikely, the destructions will say so, and probably earthing the tool clips would suffice.


I probably want a reflector under it, and if so its probably aluminium which might as well be earthed.
Simon.

In article ,
sm_jamieson wrote:
I will be making up some fluorescent lights on top of the kitchen
cabinets. I am getting dimmable high frequency ballasts from RS, and the
dimming control is sorted out. So the question is, what is the minimal
wiring job I can do to connect the ballasts to the tubes that complies
regs etc. ? If I just get some end caps and some means of supporting the
tube (those metal spring clips ?), and wire them to the ballasts
(high-voltage cable ?), is that sufficient ? I vaguely remember hearing
something about needing an earth plane parallel to the tube (which would
usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the ballast), but I
have no idea why this would be required. If it is, could I simply have
some earthed foil running alongside the tube ? Or perhaps earthing the
metal tube support clips (say 3 along the length) would do ... Simon.

No need for an earthing strip with high frequency ballasts.

You can buy cables with the tube plug moulded on - and the cable is just a
very basic twin extruded. I suppose you could sleeve that if you're
worried.

The Osram dimming ballasts I have use just a plain pot as the dimmer,
carrying low volt DC.

--
*Why doesn't glue stick to the inside of the bottle?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, December 7, 2012 2:01:38 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,

sm_jamieson wrote:

I will be making up some fluorescent lights on top of the kitchen

cabinets. I am getting dimmable high frequency ballasts from RS, and the

dimming control is sorted out. So the question is, what is the minimal

wiring job I can do to connect the ballasts to the tubes that complies

regs etc. ? If I just get some end caps and some means of supporting the

tube (those metal spring clips ?), and wire them to the ballasts

(high-voltage cable ?), is that sufficient ? I vaguely remember hearing

something about needing an earth plane parallel to the tube (which would

usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the ballast), but I

have no idea why this would be required. If it is, could I simply have

some earthed foil running alongside the tube ? Or perhaps earthing the

metal tube support clips (say 3 along the length) would do ... Simon.



No need for an earthing strip with high frequency ballasts.



You can buy cables with the tube plug moulded on - and the cable is just a

very basic twin extruded. I suppose you could sleeve that if you're

worried.



The Osram dimming ballasts I have use just a plain pot as the dimmer,

carrying low volt DC.


I was going to get the philips ones that use a pot between two terminals. They are "1-10V control" but one terminal has a 10V reference on it.
I have control cable (i.e. mains rated insulation) running to the location for the pot connection.
Where did you get the Osram ones from, since I had only found the Philips ones ?
It's always good to have another option.

I might make a reflector out of silver foil.

Simon.

On Friday, December 7, 2012 2:48:38 PM UTC, sm_jamieson wrote:

I might make a reflector out of silver foil.

A reflector needs to be cleanable


NT

On Saturday, December 8, 2012 12:32:24 AM UTC, wrote:
On Friday, December 7, 2012 2:48:38 PM UTC, sm_jamieson wrote:



I might make a reflector out of silver foil.



A reflector needs to be cleanable





NT

I suppose you could just replace the foil...
There are reflectors availabl on the internet, commonly used for aquariums. But certainly an upward pointing open refector could collect a lot of dust.
Simon.

On Friday, December 7, 2012 2:01:38 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,

sm_jamieson wrote:

I will be making up some fluorescent lights on top of the kitchen

cabinets. I am getting dimmable high frequency ballasts from RS, and the

dimming control is sorted out. So the question is, what is the minimal

wiring job I can do to connect the ballasts to the tubes that complies

regs etc. ? If I just get some end caps and some means of supporting the

tube (those metal spring clips ?), and wire them to the ballasts

(high-voltage cable ?), is that sufficient ? I vaguely remember hearing

something about needing an earth plane parallel to the tube (which would

usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the ballast), but I

have no idea why this would be required. If it is, could I simply have

some earthed foil running alongside the tube ? Or perhaps earthing the

metal tube support clips (say 3 along the length) would do ... Simon.



No need for an earthing strip with high frequency ballasts.



You can buy cables with the tube plug moulded on - and the cable is just a

very basic twin extruded. I suppose you could sleeve that if you're

worried.



The Osram dimming ballasts I have use just a plain pot as the dimmer,

carrying low volt DC.


For some reason, none of the documentation for these units states there is 10V on one of the terminals, nor explains what the - and + terminals mean, and the impression given is that 1-10V relative to earth has to be supplied from elsewhere.
Only only found out a plain pot works by the link to a "dimmer" on the RS site. I bought a dimmer and looked at it and it was just a plain pot (with trimmer for minimum setting).
I understand it is a European standard interface so I assume this is documented somewhere.

Now I have to furtle a plain pot onto the back of a brushed steel mains dimmer so it looks OK instead of being white plastic.

Simon.

On Friday, December 7, 2012 3:03:12 PM UTC, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Friday, December 7, 2012 2:01:38 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,



sm_jamieson wrote:



I will be making up some fluorescent lights on top of the kitchen



cabinets. I am getting dimmable high frequency ballasts from RS, and the



dimming control is sorted out. So the question is, what is the minimal



wiring job I can do to connect the ballasts to the tubes that complies



regs etc. ? If I just get some end caps and some means of supporting the



tube (those metal spring clips ?), and wire them to the ballasts



(high-voltage cable ?), is that sufficient ? I vaguely remember hearing



something about needing an earth plane parallel to the tube (which would



usually be supplied by the metal fitting containing the ballast), but I



have no idea why this would be required. If it is, could I simply have



some earthed foil running alongside the tube ? Or perhaps earthing the



metal tube support clips (say 3 along the length) would do ... Simon.







No need for an earthing strip with high frequency ballasts.







You can buy cables with the tube plug moulded on - and the cable is just a



very basic twin extruded. I suppose you could sleeve that if you're



worried.







The Osram dimming ballasts I have use just a plain pot as the dimmer,



carrying low volt DC.





For some reason, none of the documentation for these units states there is 10V on one of the terminals, nor explains what the - and + terminals mean, and the impression given is that 1-10V relative to earth has to be supplied from elsewhere.

Only only found out a plain pot works by the link to a "dimmer" on the RS site. I bought a dimmer and looked at it and it was just a plain pot (with trimmer for minimum setting).

I understand it is a European standard interface so I assume this is documented somewhere.



Now I have to furtle a plain pot onto the back of a brushed steel mains dimmer so it looks OK instead of being white plastic.



Simon.

I remember now, I found this
http://www.mr-resistor.co.uk/item.as...389&i=10703&a=
(1-10V dimmer with push switch)
and we decided it could not in fact be wired up to regs, since you cannot combine mains voltage and extra low voltage in the same back box.
So I have wired up a switch and separate dimmer.

Simon.

In article ,
sm_jamieson wrote:
I remember now, I found this
http://www.mr-resistor.co.uk/item.as...389&i=10703&a= (1-10V
dimmer with push switch) and we decided it could not in fact be wired up
to regs, since you cannot combine mains voltage and extra low voltage in
the same back box. So I have wired up a switch and separate dimmer.

I don't see why you can't have mains and low volts in the same box - if
you know what you're doing. Sounds to me like a 'shotgun' regulation.

--
*Upon the advice of my attorney, my shirt bears no message at this time

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, December 7, 2012 3:51:24 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,

sm_jamieson wrote:

I remember now, I found this

http://www.mr-resistor.co.uk/item.as...389&i=10703&a= (1-10V

dimmer with push switch) and we decided it could not in fact be wired up

to regs, since you cannot combine mains voltage and extra low voltage in

the same back box. So I have wired up a switch and separate dimmer.



I don't see why you can't have mains and low volts in the same box - if

you know what you're doing. Sounds to me like a 'shotgun' regulation.


Yes.
In the end I think I did not pursue this, since I decided it would be useful to have the dimmer and switch separate to reduce the effect of household "twiddlers" ;-)
Simon.