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Default Underfloor insulation and heating

Hello,

I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top.

I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK.

Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times?

I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base.

Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex?

Many thanks.
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Default Underfloor insulation and heating

On Jun 4, 5:54*pm, Chris S
wrote:
Hello,

I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top.

I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK.

Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times?

I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base.

Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex?

Many thanks.


It's not a sytem in widespread use over here. You will have to refer
to manufacturers instructions.
All electric heating systems are inherently expensive to run,
(assuming it is electric.)
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Default Underfloor insulation and heating

harry wrote:
On Jun 4, 5:54 pm, Chris S
wrote:
Hello,

I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated
kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet
underfloor heating, with new tiles on top.

I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the
(swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds
that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is
cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK.

Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times?

I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am
assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable
the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that
I'll have to establish a new concrete base.

Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could
these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto
Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex?

Many thanks.


It's not a sytem in widespread use over here. You will have to refer
to manufacturers instructions.
All electric heating systems are inherently expensive to run,
(assuming it is electric.)



The OP did say he wanted to install wet UFH.

--
Adam


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Default Underfloor insulation and heating

ARWadsworth wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jun 4, 5:54 pm, Chris S
wrote:
Hello,

I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated
kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet
underfloor heating, with new tiles on top.

I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the
(swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds
that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is
cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK.

Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times?

I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am
assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable
the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that
I'll have to establish a new concrete base.

Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could
these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto
Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex?

Many thanks.

It's not a sytem in widespread use over here. You will have to refer
to manufacturers instructions.
All electric heating systems are inherently expensive to run,
(assuming it is electric.)



The OP did say he wanted to install wet UFH.

Harry doesn't do basic 'reading and comprehension'.


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.
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Default Underfloor insulation and heating

On Jun 4, 5:54*pm, Chris S
wrote:
Hello,

I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top.

I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK.

Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times?

I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base.

Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex?


Thinking about something similar myself....

The Floorheater website seems to be lacking a data sheet, but the
brochure says that it comes in 12.5mm and 25mm versions. The 25mm one
includes insulation - you might as well go for the 12.5 and manage
insulation yourself.

http://www.floorheater.co.uk/data/do...chure_2010.pdf

Wavin Thermoboard and Nu-Heat LoPro10 are both 15mm thick, and do
pretty much the same thing.

I would have thought that if Celotex couldn't be used, then Marmox (or
Therma-mat, or similar) should be fine.



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Default Underfloor insulation and heating

In message ,
Chris S writes
Hello,

I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated
kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor
heating, with new tiles on top.

I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the
(swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it
looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in
Sweden it should work in the UK.

Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times?

I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am
assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the
better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have
to establish a new concrete base.

Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could
these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex,
or would I need a screed on the Celotex?


Umm... I think you need to find someone who has such a system installed.

The slotted board has the draw back that you can't use the *snail*
spiral recommended by Polypipe. This may not be much of an issue if you
have lots of short pipe runs connecting back to the manifold but you
then return fairly hot water which may not get the best out of your
boiler.

In a *worst case* example; where your heating pipe starts at one side of
the room and zig zags across to the other before returning to the
manifold, the floor will have a temperature gradient.

On the you can *tile directly claim* I suppose it depends how
compressible the polystyrene is. My sister has a chipboard floor laid
directly over conventional floor insulation and that definitely springs
as you move about.

regards

--
Tim Lamb
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