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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Underfloor insulation and heating
Hello,
I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top. I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK. Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times? I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base. Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex? Many thanks. |
#2
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Underfloor insulation and heating
On Jun 4, 5:54*pm, Chris S
wrote: Hello, I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top. I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK. Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times? I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base. Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex? Many thanks. It's not a sytem in widespread use over here. You will have to refer to manufacturers instructions. All electric heating systems are inherently expensive to run, (assuming it is electric.) |
#3
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Underfloor insulation and heating
harry wrote:
On Jun 4, 5:54 pm, Chris S wrote: Hello, I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top. I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK. Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times? I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base. Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex? Many thanks. It's not a sytem in widespread use over here. You will have to refer to manufacturers instructions. All electric heating systems are inherently expensive to run, (assuming it is electric.) The OP did say he wanted to install wet UFH. -- Adam |
#4
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Underfloor insulation and heating
ARWadsworth wrote:
harry wrote: On Jun 4, 5:54 pm, Chris S wrote: Hello, I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top. I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK. Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times? I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base. Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex? Many thanks. It's not a sytem in widespread use over here. You will have to refer to manufacturers instructions. All electric heating systems are inherently expensive to run, (assuming it is electric.) The OP did say he wanted to install wet UFH. Harry doesn't do basic 'reading and comprehension'. -- To people who know nothing, anything is possible. To people who know too much, it is a sad fact that they know how little is really possible - and how hard it is to achieve it. |
#5
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Underfloor insulation and heating
On Jun 4, 5:54*pm, Chris S
wrote: Hello, I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top. I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK. Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times? I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base. Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex? Thinking about something similar myself.... The Floorheater website seems to be lacking a data sheet, but the brochure says that it comes in 12.5mm and 25mm versions. The 25mm one includes insulation - you might as well go for the 12.5 and manage insulation yourself. http://www.floorheater.co.uk/data/do...chure_2010.pdf Wavin Thermoboard and Nu-Heat LoPro10 are both 15mm thick, and do pretty much the same thing. I would have thought that if Celotex couldn't be used, then Marmox (or Therma-mat, or similar) should be fine. |
#6
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Underfloor insulation and heating
In message ,
Chris S writes Hello, I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top. I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK. Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times? I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base. Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex? Umm... I think you need to find someone who has such a system installed. The slotted board has the draw back that you can't use the *snail* spiral recommended by Polypipe. This may not be much of an issue if you have lots of short pipe runs connecting back to the manifold but you then return fairly hot water which may not get the best out of your boiler. In a *worst case* example; where your heating pipe starts at one side of the room and zig zags across to the other before returning to the manifold, the floor will have a temperature gradient. On the you can *tile directly claim* I suppose it depends how compressible the polystyrene is. My sister has a chipboard floor laid directly over conventional floor insulation and that definitely springs as you move about. regards -- Tim Lamb |
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