I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? ... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?

--
Chris Green

On Feb 10, 2:11*pm, wrote:

I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. *It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? *... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?

You can use 4 x 1 par to make frames and use 3 x 2.
What are you going to do with the new room?

If you intend to knock down the wall against the present hall you will
want a thick and insulated wall. If it is just going to be a coal
bunker 2 x 2 will do.

The sticks should be at 400 centres. That is, a sheet will have three
uprights (called studs, I've no idea why) along it, if the sheet is
standing on end. Remember to put an extra piece in it to catch the
returning inner wall. Or put the inner sheet on before you return the
wall.

There should be an half inch gap along the bottom (or the thickness of
the plasterboard.) You want noggins half way up or a pair of noggins
if you like. And you want reinforcement (called patresses, I've no
idea why) for hanging radiators.
They are just flush mounted 3/4 ply noggins (I've... etc., etc..).
And you want noggins or whatever, to carry electricity sockets.

If it needs to be fire insulation, you use a glass reinforced pink
board.

On Feb 10, 2:11 pm, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? ... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?

--
Chris Green

get all the critical bits bought and ready first - door & frame,
architraves, skirts etc.

then just build it around/for those bits.

4X2 will give a ~5inch thick wall, 3X2 a ~4 inch thick wall (assuming
1.2inch pb on both sides)
- heavy door? lotsa slamming? 4 X2 well braced around the frame.

Jim K

On Feb 10, 2:11*pm, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. *It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? *... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?

Usually 2x4 framing, 2' spacing, 1 row of noggings, 12mm board.
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Stud_wall
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...oise_reduction


NT

On 10/02/2012 14:11, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? ... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?


Depends to some extent on how much room you've got, and how strong it
needs to be. A lot of partitions in offices are made of two sheets of
plasterboard bonded to some central honeycomb - with an overall
thickness of less than 2".

If using wooden studding, 3x2 is a fairly safe bet, with the 3"
dimension (plus plasterboard) defining the wall thickness. You could
probably get away with less than 3", and 4" would be an overkill unless
you want to build it like your proverbial brick ****house!

The vertical studs need to suit the board dimensions, but need to be no
more than about 18" (450mm) apart. You need to have 2 or 3 horizontal
noggins between each pair of uprights.

You can buy standard door 'linings' (frames) for internal walls - with
halving joints already cut in the horizontal bit, so you simply have to
assemble and trim them, and build them into your wall. If they're too
wide for the studding plus two thicknesses of board, you may need to cut
or plane some off the edges before assembly.

Are you planning to skim the boards (or pay someone to do it for you)? I
have had reasonable success with just putting self-adhesive scrim tape
over the joints and then covering the joints with jointing compound
similar to http://www.wickes.co.uk/jointing-compound/invt/220995/

With the ones I've done, it's virtually impossible to see the joins
after the wall has been painted - but it is a bit time-consuming
applying several layers of compound and sanding smooth after each layer
dries. Depends on whether or not you want to avoid the mess associated
with wet plaster - and the cost, if you have to pay someone to do it.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Roger Mills wrote:
On 10/02/2012 14:11, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? ... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?


Depends to some extent on how much room you've got, and how strong it
needs to be. A lot of partitions in offices are made of two sheets of
plasterboard bonded to some central honeycomb - with an overall
thickness of less than 2".

If using wooden studding, 3x2 is a fairly safe bet, with the 3"
dimension (plus plasterboard) defining the wall thickness. You could
probably get away with less than 3", and 4" would be an overkill unless
you want to build it like your proverbial brick ****house!

The vertical studs need to suit the board dimensions, but need to be no
more than about 18" (450mm) apart. You need to have 2 or 3 horizontal
noggins between each pair of uprights.

You can buy standard door 'linings' (frames) for internal walls - with
halving joints already cut in the horizontal bit, so you simply have to
assemble and trim them, and build them into your wall. If they're too
wide for the studding plus two thicknesses of board, you may need to cut
or plane some off the edges before assembly.

Are you planning to skim the boards (or pay someone to do it for you)? I
have had reasonable success with just putting self-adhesive scrim tape
over the joints and then covering the joints with jointing compound
similar to http://www.wickes.co.uk/jointing-compound/invt/220995/

With the ones I've done, it's virtually impossible to see the joins
after the wall has been painted - but it is a bit time-consuming
applying several layers of compound and sanding smooth after each layer
dries. Depends on whether or not you want to avoid the mess associated
with wet plaster - and the cost, if you have to pay someone to do it.

Thanks Roger (and all the other replies). Maybe I'll go for 3" x 2"
then, there's no need for it to be incredibly solid. I like your idea
for avoiding skimming the wall, I should be able to get away with very
few joints anyway. What size sheets does plasterboard come in?

--
Chris Green

On Feb 12, 11:24*pm, wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:
On 10/02/2012 14:11, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. *It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2..5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? *... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?

Depends to some extent on how much room you've got, and how strong it
needs to be. A lot of partitions in offices are made of two sheets of
plasterboard bonded to some central honeycomb - with an overall
thickness of less than 2".

If using wooden studding, 3x2 is a fairly safe bet, with the 3"
dimension (plus plasterboard) defining the wall thickness. You could
probably get away with less than 3", and 4" would be an overkill unless
you want to build it like your proverbial brick ****house!

The vertical studs need to suit the board dimensions, but need to be no
more than about 18" (450mm) apart. You need to have 2 or 3 horizontal
noggins between each pair of uprights.

You can buy standard door 'linings' (frames) for internal walls - with
halving joints already cut in the horizontal bit, so you simply have to
assemble and trim them, and build them into your wall. If they're too
wide for the studding plus two thicknesses of board, you may need to cut
or plane some off the edges before assembly.

Are you planning to skim the boards (or pay someone to do it for you)? I
have had reasonable success with just putting self-adhesive scrim tape
over the joints and then covering the joints with jointing compound
similar tohttp://www.wickes.co.uk/jointing-compound/invt/220995/

With the ones I've done, it's virtually impossible to see the joins
after the wall has been painted - but it is a bit time-consuming
applying several layers of compound and sanding smooth after each layer
dries. Depends on whether or not you want to avoid the mess associated
with wet plaster - and the cost, if you have to pay someone to do it.

Thanks Roger (and all the other replies). *Maybe I'll go for 3" x 2"
then, there's no need for it to be incredibly solid. *I like your idea
for avoiding skimming the wall, I should be able to get away with very
few joints anyway. *What size sheets does plasterboard come in?

4x8 are good for walls. You can get smaller too, if those are too
heavy or unmanoeuvrable.


NT

On Feb 10, 2:11*pm, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. *It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?


If you are going to put a door across the route that leads to the
front door you might find there are some fire regulations involved.
This is more likely to be significant if the house has more than 2
stories. Also, AIUI, building conrol are involved if yo userate one
space into two spaces (also because of the fire regs).


Robert

RobertL wrote:
On Feb 10, 2:11Â*pm, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. Â*It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

If you are going to put a door across the route that leads to the
front door you might find there are some fire regulations involved.
This is more likely to be significant if the house has more than 2
stories. Also, AIUI, building conrol are involved if yo userate one
space into two spaces (also because of the fire regs).

We have three other doors, I'm not really sure which is the 'front' door.

--
Chris Green

On Feb 13, 12:51*pm, wrote:
RobertL wrote:
On Feb 10, 2:11*pm, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. *It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2..5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

If you are going to put a door across the route that leads to the
front door you might find there are some fire regulations involved.
This is more likely to be significant if the house has more than 2
stories. * Also, AIUI, building conrol are involved if yo userate one
space into two spaces (also because of the fire regs).

We have three other doors, I'm not really sure which is the 'front' door.


IIRC each habitable room must open onto a route which leads, to an
external door without an intervening door. this is so you can't find
your way unexpectedly blocked by a fire that has been concealed fro
myou. But maybe this only applies in +2 story houses (for example
houses with a loft conversion).

Robert

RobertL wrote:
On Feb 13, 12:51Â*pm, wrote:
RobertL wrote:
On Feb 10, 2:11Â*pm, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. Â*It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

If you are going to put a door across the route that leads to the
front door you might find there are some fire regulations involved.
This is more likely to be significant if the house has more than 2
stories. Â* Also, AIUI, building conrol are involved if yo userate one
space into two spaces (also because of the fire regs).

We have three other doors, I'm not really sure which is the 'front' door.

IIRC each habitable room must open onto a route which leads, to an
external door without an intervening door. this is so you can't find
your way unexpectedly blocked by a fire that has been concealed fro
myou. But maybe this only applies in +2 story houses (for example
houses with a loft conversion).

Our house is too rambling to comply with that requirement already!
Although thinking about it there's only one habitable room (a bedroom)
where you have to go through another room (another bedroom) before you
get to the upstairs corridor.

Adding the door in the hall won't make this apply to any more rooms I
don't think.

--
Chris Green

On 12/02/2012 11:24 PM, wrote:
Roger wrote:
On 10/02/2012 14:11, wrote:
I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large)
hall in half. It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5
metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart
the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about
right? ... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?


Depends to some extent on how much room you've got, and how strong it
needs to be. A lot of partitions in offices are made of two sheets of
plasterboard bonded to some central honeycomb - with an overall
thickness of less than 2".

If using wooden studding, 3x2 is a fairly safe bet, with the 3"
dimension (plus plasterboard) defining the wall thickness. You could
probably get away with less than 3", and 4" would be an overkill unless
you want to build it like your proverbial brick ****house!

The vertical studs need to suit the board dimensions, but need to be no
more than about 18" (450mm) apart. You need to have 2 or 3 horizontal
noggins between each pair of uprights.

You can buy standard door 'linings' (frames) for internal walls - with
halving joints already cut in the horizontal bit, so you simply have to
assemble and trim them, and build them into your wall. If they're too
wide for the studding plus two thicknesses of board, you may need to cut
or plane some off the edges before assembly.

Are you planning to skim the boards (or pay someone to do it for you)? I
have had reasonable success with just putting self-adhesive scrim tape
over the joints and then covering the joints with jointing compound
similar to http://www.wickes.co.uk/jointing-compound/invt/220995/

With the ones I've done, it's virtually impossible to see the joins
after the wall has been painted - but it is a bit time-consuming
applying several layers of compound and sanding smooth after each layer
dries. Depends on whether or not you want to avoid the mess associated
with wet plaster - and the cost, if you have to pay someone to do it.

Thanks Roger (and all the other replies). Maybe I'll go for 3" x 2"
then, there's no need for it to be incredibly solid. I like your idea
for avoiding skimming the wall, I should be able to get away with very
few joints anyway. What size sheets does plasterboard come in?






The norm for timber size depends on board thickness (& type) ... it
timber fame which is the biggest user of this type of construction it
would NOT be 4 x 2 it would be to use CLS 38 x 89


For the 12mm boards I used, the vertical spacing was 600mm for walls.