I need to replace a pendent type light fitting with a flush fitting one.
The will entail replacing the ceiling rose with a junction box of some
description. It will need to be accessed from the ceiling since there is
not access from above. What is the smallest junction box type device
that I could use for this?

Andrew

Andrew May wrote:
I need to replace a pendent type light fitting with a flush fitting one.
The will entail replacing the ceiling rose with a junction box of some
description. It will need to be accessed from the ceiling since there is
not access from above. What is the smallest junction box type device
that I could use for this?

Andrew
How about http://www.chocbox.info/

Bob

Andrew May wrote:

I need to replace a pendent type light fitting with a flush fitting one.
The will entail replacing the ceiling rose with a junction box of some
description. It will need to be accessed from the ceiling since there is
not access from above. What is the smallest junction box type device
that I could use for this?

http://tinyurl.com/ashley-j501

Depends if you've got enough slack in the incoming, outgoing and switch
cables to work from below and then insert it through a hole.

Andy Burns wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/ashley-j501

Then I noticed these on the "see also" from that page, smaller but
perhaps fiddlier.

http://tinyurl.com/click-ct100c

On 08/09/2011 09:40, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/ashley-j501

Then I noticed these on the "see also" from that page, smaller but
perhaps fiddlier.

http://tinyurl.com/click-ct100c

Actually, if I can make the cables reach, and I haven't tried yet, that
is a good idea. It means that I can wire up the light fitting without
trying to do it with the fitting upside down while balancing on a chair.

Andrew May wrote:

On 08/09/2011 09:40, Andy Burns wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/click-ct100c

Actually, if I can make the cables reach, and I haven't tried yet, that
is a good idea. It means that I can wire up the light fitting without
trying to do it with the fitting upside down while balancing on a chair.

It's surprising how tiring doing that sort of stuff is with your arms
above your head (unless it's your day-job).

On 08/09/2011 09:16, Andrew May wrote:
I need to replace a pendent type light fitting with a flush fitting one.
The will entail replacing the ceiling rose with a junction box of some
description. It will need to be accessed from the ceiling since there is
not access from above. What is the smallest junction box type device
that I could use for this?

How about

https://www.wagobox.com/shop/lightin...ox-6-pack.html




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sep 8, 9:40*am, Andy Burns wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/ashley-j501

Then I noticed these on the "see also" from that page, smaller but
perhaps fiddlier.

http://tinyurl.com/click-ct100c


I've used both of these extensively for connecting my downlighters.
IThe idea is presumably that you can run two loop and one switch into
the Click connector. I wouldn't; I found it hard to get a secure
connection with three cables due to the inadequate cable clamping.

I had a two-way switch, so I needed to connect 5 wires in total - more
than would reasonably go in a single JB. I used an Ashley J804
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html screwed to a joist to
handle the loop and to provide me with a spurred loop. I connected
this to an Ashley J501 to handle switching - two switch wires, one
spurred loop, and one output tail. I connected the output tail to a
Click connector, and then looped in more tails and click connectors
from here, with no more than two wires at any one connector.

That lets me easily remove a single or multiple light fitting for
decorating, without having to turn off the lights circuit. And, of
course, it means I can carry out an insulation test on individual live
connectors rather than having to pair them up.

Only other point to note is that if you put only two wires into the
Click connectors, the third cable entry is open - there's no blanking
plate. It still meets IP2x, but it feels a bit sloppy.

On 08/09/2011 16:36, Ben Blaukopf wrote:
On Sep 8, 9:40 am, Andy wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/ashley-j501

Then I noticed these on the "see also" from that page, smaller but
perhaps fiddlier.

http://tinyurl.com/click-ct100c


I've used both of these extensively for connecting my downlighters.
IThe idea is presumably that you can run two loop and one switch into
the Click connector. I wouldn't; I found it hard to get a secure
connection with three cables due to the inadequate cable clamping.

I had a two-way switch, so I needed to connect 5 wires in total - more
than would reasonably go in a single JB. I used an Ashley J804
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html screwed to a joist to
handle the loop and to provide me with a spurred loop.

I looked that those but they look a bit big to go through the ceiling.
By my calculation it is going to need a three inch hole. Might be a bit big.

Has anyone any experience of these?
http://www.qvsdirect.com/Wagobox-Jun...-pr-24806.html
They look as if they will go through a hole a little over 2 inches.

On 08/09/2011 16:14, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/09/2011 09:16, Andrew May wrote:
I need to replace a pendent type light fitting with a flush fitting one.
The will entail replacing the ceiling rose with a junction box of some
description. It will need to be accessed from the ceiling since there is
not access from above. What is the smallest junction box type device
that I could use for this?

How about

https://www.wagobox.com/shop/lightin...ox-6-pack.html


It doesn't seem to take enough cables but I am more than happy to be
proved wrong. The one I posted in response to Ben's post is larger and
looks as if it will.

Andrew May wrote:
On 08/09/2011 16:36, Ben Blaukopf wrote:
On Sep 8, 9:40 am, Andy wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/ashley-j501

Then I noticed these on the "see also" from that page, smaller but
perhaps fiddlier.

http://tinyurl.com/click-ct100c


I've used both of these extensively for connecting my downlighters.
IThe idea is presumably that you can run two loop and one switch into
the Click connector. I wouldn't; I found it hard to get a secure
connection with three cables due to the inadequate cable clamping.

I had a two-way switch, so I needed to connect 5 wires in total - more
than would reasonably go in a single JB. I used an Ashley J804
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html screwed to a joist to
handle the loop and to provide me with a spurred loop.

I looked that those but they look a bit big to go through the ceiling.
By my calculation it is going to need a three inch hole. Might be a bit big.

Has anyone any experience of these?
http://www.qvsdirect.com/Wagobox-Jun...-pr-24806.html
They look as if they will go through a hole a little over 2 inches.

Yes, I use them, they work pretty well though aren't so good if you
want to get really fat cables into them. The connectors will handle
up to 4sq mm but trying to get even 2.5sq mm three core cable into
them is pretty hard work. For what you want to do I think they would
work pretty well if they fit in the hole.

--
Chris Green

Andrew May wrote:

Has anyone any experience of these?
http://www.qvsdirect.com/Wagobox-Jun...e-Connectors-p
r-24806.html
They look as if they will go through a hole a little over 2 inches.

I dont think they are too good for fitting through celing holes, they
are quite chunky when held.
Choc boxes are a lot smaller, so maybe the best choice would be use the
Wago connectors, and a choc box. That'd be the most compact fitting I
think.
I never use block (screw) connectors any more, I've got a pile of Wagos,
and use them for nearly all connections.
If you need a few, mail me.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

On 08/09/2011 19:10, A.Lee wrote:
Andrew wrote:

Has anyone any experience of these?
http://www.qvsdirect.com/Wagobox-Jun...e-Connectors-p
r-24806.html
They look as if they will go through a hole a little over 2 inches.

I dont think they are too good for fitting through celing holes, they
are quite chunky when held.

Its surprising what you can get through a ceiling hole with the aid of a
plasterboard pad saw ;-)

(as for the hole, you stick the bit cut out back with some mastic and
hide it under the light fitting!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Yes, I use them, they work pretty well though aren't so good if you
want to get really fat cables into them. The connectors will handle
up to 4sq mm but trying to get even 2.5sq mm three core cable into
them is pretty hard work.

May be worth stressing that the maker's instructions allow you to move
the grippers (or in the lighting ones bend them with pliers) for thicker
cables.

I think some in practice also trim a mm off the grippers with a sharp
knife but I doubt that's authorised.



--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com

Robin wrote:
Yes, I use them, they work pretty well though aren't so good if you
want to get really fat cables into them. The connectors will handle
up to 4sq mm but trying to get even 2.5sq mm three core cable into
them is pretty hard work.

May be worth stressing that the maker's instructions allow you to move
the grippers (or in the lighting ones bend them with pliers) for thicker
cables.

I removed the grippers completely, it's still hard work getting
2.5sqmm flex into a Wago Box.

--
Chris Green

Yes, I use them, they work pretty well though aren't so good if you
want to get really fat cables into them. The connectors will handle
up to 4sq mm but trying to get even 2.5sq mm three core cable into
them is pretty hard work.
^^^^

May be worth stressing that the maker's instructions allow you to
move the grippers (or in the lighting ones bend them with pliers)
for thicker cables.

I removed the grippers completely, it's still hard work getting
2.5sqmm flex into a Wago Box.
^^^

Ah yes, 2.5mm 3 core flex wd indeed be a struggle: the last stuff I
bought was 9.7mm OD while Wagoboxes are only spec'd for up to 8mm even
with the grippers removed.

--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com

On 08/09/2011 19:10, A.Lee wrote:
Andrew wrote:

Has anyone any experience of these?
http://www.qvsdirect.com/Wagobox-Jun...e-Connectors-p
r-24806.html
They look as if they will go through a hole a little over 2 inches.

I dont think they are too good for fitting through celing holes, they
are quite chunky when held.
Choc boxes are a lot smaller, so maybe the best choice would be use the
Wago connectors, and a choc box. That'd be the most compact fitting I
think.
I never use block (screw) connectors any more, I've got a pile of Wagos,
and use them for nearly all connections.
If you need a few, mail me.
Alan.

Thanks for the offer Alan but there is a QVS around the corner which
stocks them so I was able to buy a pile along with the box. It turns out
that the hole above the existing light fitting was quite large so I
could open it out to get the box through and will probably patch in a
piece of new plasterboard to finish.

Fist time I have used the Wago connectors and for 1.5mm cable seemed
fine. 2.5mm might be a bit harder as others have pointed out.

Interestingly the light fitting that I was putting up turns out to have
push fit connectors internally instead of screws. At least on live an
neutral. Earth, for some reason, is still a screw terminal.

Andrew