I'm designing the new bathroom extraction. In the en-suite I did last
year I used two Manrose 30w ducted kits, one over the shower (30minutes
run) and one over the loo (5 minutes run) both triggered by the
appropriate lights (IP65 downlighters with 35w MR16 dichroics, 3-pole
isolators etc.,etc..) This has been very successful, but the room is
hardly bigger than a large wardrobe.

Now I'm doing the main bathroom, and the shower will be an over-bath
job with folding screen. {I'm not interested in the discussion of bath
vs. shower vs. separate cubical thanks - too late.} It's a bigger
room, but still not very big, and does have two small
accessible and open-able windows. I think we need one ducted fan, over
the shower-end of the bath to clear the steam, but what extraction rate?
Does it need a timer? Humidistats seem very expensive, but should I
consider that? Screwfix?

Thanks for any tips. (I've read the wiki)

R.

On Jun 24, 3:35*pm, TheOldFellow wrote:
I'm designing the new bathroom extraction. *In the en-suite I did last
year I used two Manrose 30w ducted kits, one over the shower (30minutes
run) and one over the loo (5 minutes run) both triggered by the
appropriate lights (IP65 downlighters with 35w MR16 dichroics, 3-pole
isolators etc.,etc..) This has been very successful, but the room is
hardly bigger than a large wardrobe.

Now I'm doing the main bathroom, and the shower will be an over-bath
job with folding screen. {I'm not interested in the discussion of bath
vs. shower vs. separate cubical thanks - too late.} *It's a bigger
room, but still not very big, and does have two small
accessible and open-able windows. I think we need one ducted fan, over
the shower-end of the bath to clear the steam, but what extraction rate?
Does it need a timer? Humidistats seem very expensive, but should I
consider that? *Screwfix?

Thanks for any tips. *(I've read the wiki)

R.

A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.


NT

Tabby wrote:
On Jun 24, 3:35 pm, TheOldFellow wrote:
I'm designing the new bathroom extraction. In the en-suite I did last
year I used two Manrose 30w ducted kits, one over the shower
(30minutes run) and one over the loo (5 minutes run) both triggered
by the appropriate lights (IP65 downlighters with 35w MR16
dichroics, 3-pole isolators etc.,etc..) This has been very
successful, but the room is hardly bigger than a large wardrobe.

Now I'm doing the main bathroom, and the shower will be an over-bath
job with folding screen. {I'm not interested in the discussion of
bath vs. shower vs. separate cubical thanks - too late.} It's a
bigger
room, but still not very big, and does have two small
accessible and open-able windows. I think we need one ducted fan,
over the shower-end of the bath to clear the steam, but what
extraction rate? Does it need a timer? Humidistats seem very
expensive, but should I consider that? Screwfix?

Thanks for any tips. (I've read the wiki)

R.

A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

And it lets cold air in.

--
Adam

On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:

A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

That's what one of the builders said this morning when querying the
heat recovery ventilator I'd specified for the new bathroom.

Open windows are fine if you can open them without letting a gale
in... The noise of a gale roaring in through a window left in the
locked ventilate position is quite something trouble is you loose all
the warmth from the room well before it gets too noisy.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...
On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:

A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

That's what one of the builders said this morning when querying the
heat recovery ventilator I'd specified for the new bathroom.

Open windows are fine if you can open them without letting a gale
in... The noise of a gale roaring in through a window left in the
locked ventilate position is quite something trouble is you loose all
the warmth from the room well before it gets too noisy.

--
Cheers
Dave.

I have a Manrose with built in humidistat, ceiling mounted, above bath,
venting out on flexible pipe
venting through the soffit. Had no problems and works a treat

On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 21:42:38 +0100, polly filler wrote:

I have a Manrose with built in humidistat, ceiling mounted, above bath,
venting out on flexible pipe venting through the soffit. Had no problems
and works a treat

Soffits? Don't have soffits, don't have anything that sticks out, it
would get blown off. When I said gale I meant gale as in F8 or above,
which starts at a tad under 40mph sustained wind speed.

Thinking about it what are these heat exchange ventilators like with
back pressure? Pressure that is enough to make fountains of rain
several inches high through leaky windows?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Jun 24, 6:04*pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:
A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

That's what one of the builders said this morning when querying the
heat recovery ventilator I'd specified for the new bathroom.

Open windows are fine if you can open them without letting a gale
in... The noise of a gale roaring in through a window left in the
locked ventilate position is quite something trouble is you loose all
the warmth from the room well before it gets too noisy.

Lockable ajar windows and fans do the same thing, let out foul air and
let in exterior air. (Its not possible to extract with a fan without
letting air in as well). In an ideal world, the opening would be
controlled, with the lock only stopping it opening too far. Perhaps
someone will work out how to implement that.


NT

On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 15:48:22 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:

In an ideal world, the opening would be controlled, with the lock only
stopping it opening too far.

Well these are top hung windows with restrictors. Left unlocked the
wind will blow 'em shut but not quite hard enough onto the seals to
stop the draught. And the noise changes from a roar to a whistle.
B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.

Tabby wrote:
On Jun 24, 6:04 pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:
A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

That's what one of the builders said this morning when querying the
heat recovery ventilator I'd specified for the new bathroom.

Open windows are fine if you can open them without letting a gale
in... The noise of a gale roaring in through a window left in the
locked ventilate position is quite something trouble is you loose all
the warmth from the room well before it gets too noisy.

Lockable ajar windows and fans do the same thing,



let out foul air and
let in exterior air. (Its not possible to extract with a fan without
letting air in as well). In an ideal world, the opening would be
controlled, with the lock only stopping it opening too far. Perhaps
someone will work out how to implement that.


NT

--
Adam

Tabby wrote:
On Jun 24, 6:04 pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:
A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

That's what one of the builders said this morning when querying the
heat recovery ventilator I'd specified for the new bathroom.

Open windows are fine if you can open them without letting a gale
in... The noise of a gale roaring in through a window left in the
locked ventilate position is quite something trouble is you loose all
the warmth from the room well before it gets too noisy.

Lockable ajar windows and fans do the same thing, let out foul air and
let in exterior air.

Well that is not my opinion. Open windows let cold air in.


(Its not possible to extract with a fan without
letting air in as well).

Well it depends where the new air comes from.

In an ideal world, the opening would be
controlled, with the lock only stopping it opening too far. Perhaps
someone will work out how to implement that.

Like a fan with a humidistat or timer then:-)

--
Adam

On Jun 25, 8:26*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

Well it depends where the new air comes from.

Unless I'm missing something, if your fan vents air to the great
outdoors (and why would you be venting damp air anywhere else?) then
the new air must come from the great outdoors too. Otherwise you will
create a vacuum in your house and suffocate to death.

On 24/06/2011 18:04, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:

A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

That's what one of the builders said this morning when querying the
heat recovery ventilator I'd specified for the new bathroom.

Open windows are fine if you can open them without letting a gale
in... The noise of a gale roaring in through a window left in the
locked ventilate position is quite something trouble is you loose all
the warmth from the room well before it gets too noisy.

Half inch open gives thieves opportunity to insert fingers or jemmy.

On Jun 25, 6:19*pm, Invisible Man wrote:
On 24/06/2011 18:04, Dave Liquorice wrote: On Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote:

A window lockable half an inch open is far more reliable, easier to
isntall, lasts a lifetime, makes no noise etc.

That's what one of the builders said this morning when querying the
heat recovery ventilator I'd specified for the new bathroom.

Open windows are fine if you can open them without letting a gale
in... The noise of a gale roaring in through a window left in the
locked ventilate position is quite something trouble is you loose all
the warmth from the room well before it gets too noisy.

Half inch open gives thieves opportunity to insert fingers or jemmy.

Doing so with enough force to defeat the lock twists the window and
break the glass.


NT

TheOldFellow wrote:
[snip]

Thanks for any tips. (I've read the wiki)

Part of this week's DIY has been the installation of three humidistat
extractors. I'd suggest don't buy the fitting kits, which IMO are ****e and
have ended up in the bin. Use 150mm stainless stove flue and cut it to
length with your favourite angle grinder. You can make a handy cutting
surface from two planks. Space them enough apart to give a slot to drop the
tube into. Hold the angle grinder steady and rotate the tube to get an
accurate cut.

One reason the fitting kits are ****e is that they don't have fly screens.

And tomorrow I'm looking forward to another fun day of drain laying. I've
laid 36 metres so far, another 36 to go to reach the septic tank.