I'm trying to hang a sliding glass door. It runs on a heavy metal bar
which is attached to the wall at 4 points. The kit provides 4 screw-in
fastenings which have an M8 threaded section which sticks out of the
wall and the bar bolts to.

I've used 12 mm sized plastic plugs as per the instructions but my
drill turned out to be slightly bent so my holes are sloppy and not
too accurate either. They are drilled either into a concrete lintel or
into concrete blocks.

How do I make this good? I'm thinking along the lines of Rawlbolts
which might be firmer, but how do I ensure that they are correctly
centred?

andyv wrote:

How do I make this good?

Resin anchors

AJH

On 15/05/2011 16:39, andyv wrote:
I'm trying to hang a sliding glass door. It runs on a heavy metal bar
which is attached to the wall at 4 points. The kit provides 4 screw-in
fastenings which have an M8 threaded section which sticks out of the
wall and the bar bolts to.

I've used 12 mm sized plastic plugs as per the instructions but my
drill turned out to be slightly bent so my holes are sloppy and not
too accurate either. They are drilled either into a concrete lintel or
into concrete blocks.

How do I make this good? I'm thinking along the lines of Rawlbolts
which might be firmer, but how do I ensure that they are correctly
centred?

Might be worth getting some resin to fix the buggers in.


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd1960/p11337


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

andyv wrote:

I'm trying to hang a sliding glass door. It runs on a heavy metal bar
which is attached to the wall at 4 points. The kit provides 4 screw-in
fastenings which have an M8 threaded section which sticks out of the
wall and the bar bolts to.

I've used 12 mm sized plastic plugs as per the instructions but my
drill turned out to be slightly bent so my holes are sloppy and not
too accurate either. They are drilled either into a concrete lintel or
into concrete blocks.

How do I make this good? I'm thinking along the lines of Rawlbolts
which might be firmer, but how do I ensure that they are correctly
centred?

I think it'd be easier to fill these holes and drill good new holes ...

Otherwise I've successfully used filler, then pressed the rawlfixing in
and letting it all set at the correct alignment before hanging whatever
it is you're hanging.

Start on one hole each end and allow the filler/plug to set properly
such that you can hang the bar, albeit loosely, then filler-up the
other holes, press in the plugs and hang the bar again loosely onto
them, so it aligns itself until set before tightening all up solidly ..


Depends on the filler setting and/or curing time, obviously, but this
can take a couple of days to do properly.

--
Paul - xxx

On May 15, 5:06*pm, "Paul - xxx" wrote:
andyv wrote:
I'm trying to hang a sliding glass door. It runs on a heavy metal bar
which is attached to the wall at 4 points. The kit provides 4 screw-in
fastenings which have an M8 threaded section which sticks out of the
wall and the bar bolts to.

I've used 12 mm sized plastic plugs as per the instructions but my
drill turned out to be slightly bent so my holes are sloppy and not
too accurate either. They are drilled either into a concrete lintel or
into concrete blocks.

How do I make this good? I'm thinking along the lines of Rawlbolts
which might be firmer, but how do I ensure that they are correctly
centred?

I think it'd be easier to fill these holes and drill good new holes ...

Otherwise I've successfully used filler, then pressed the rawlfixing in
and letting it all set at the correct alignment before hanging whatever
it is you're hanging.

Start on one hole each end and allow the filler/plug to set properly
such that you can hang the bar, albeit loosely, then filler-up the
other holes, press in *the plugs and hang the bar again loosely onto
them, so it aligns itself until set before tightening all up solidly ..


Depends on the filler setting and/or curing time, obviously, but this
can take a couple of days to do properly.

--
Paul - xxx

Many thanks. This is a new technique for me.

andyv wrote:

Many thanks. This is a new technique for me.

No worries. I'm a school caretaker and sometimes have to take a few
shortcuts ..

--
Paul - xxx

On 15 May,
"Paul - xxx" wrote:

I think it'd be easier to fill these holes and drill good new holes ...

Otherwise I've successfully used filler, then pressed the rawlfixing in
and letting it all set at the correct alignment before hanging whatever
it is you're hanging.

Start on one hole each end and allow the filler/plug to set properly
such that you can hang the bar, albeit loosely, then filler-up the
other holes, press in the plugs and hang the bar again loosely onto
them, so it aligns itself until set before tightening all up solidly ..


Depends on the filler setting and/or curing time, obviously, but this
can take a couple of days to do properly.

If it's a heavy fitting, using resin (as in resin anchors) could be used as
the filler, directly onto studding. This will leave studs sticking out of the
wall on which to hang your bar. Stronger than the wall it is.

--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply

In article ,
"Paul - xxx" writes:
andyv wrote:

I'm trying to hang a sliding glass door. It runs on a heavy metal bar
which is attached to the wall at 4 points. The kit provides 4 screw-in
fastenings which have an M8 threaded section which sticks out of the
wall and the bar bolts to.

I've used 12 mm sized plastic plugs as per the instructions but my
drill turned out to be slightly bent so my holes are sloppy and not
too accurate either. They are drilled either into a concrete lintel or
into concrete blocks.

How do I make this good? I'm thinking along the lines of Rawlbolts
which might be firmer, but how do I ensure that they are correctly
centred?

I think it'd be easier to fill these holes and drill good new holes ...

If you do that, start by drilling thinner holes than you need,
and then widen them with a larger bit. That often gives a more
accurately sized hole than trying to do it in one go, particularly
if you can get away without hammer mode for the second hole.

I always initially try without hammer mode, and only engage
hammer when it's needed. If you find youself going into a soft
brick or mortar, hammer mode can make a real mess of the hole.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]