Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

I could just drill out the screw entirely. I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

[1] Would "bolts" be more accurate?

On 10/05/2011 09:06, Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

Your best bet would be to buy a security bit set like
http://www.screwfix.com/p/security-bit-set-33pcs/96872

Obviously contains more bits than the one you need, but it's a really
useful bit of kit to keep for occasions like this

David

In article ,
Lobster wrote:

Obviously contains more bits than the one you need, but it's a really
useful bit of kit to keep for occasions like this

But not, according to the reviews, for anything requiring appreciable
force.

-- Richard

In message , Lobster
writes
On 10/05/2011 09:06, Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

Your best bet would be to buy a security bit set like
http://www.screwfix.com/p/security-bit-set-33pcs/96872

Obviously contains more bits than the one you need, but it's a really
useful bit of kit to keep for occasions like this


How much ???

the 32 bit security set is around a quid from CPC


--
geoff

Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

I could just drill out the screw entirely. I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

[1] Would "bolts" be more accurate?

It would be easier to just buy a set of security bits - google will lead
you. Think Screwfix has them.

--
Tim Watts

On Tue, 10 May 2011 08:06:46 +0000 (UTC), Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

You'll probably find that if you bend it from side to side a few
times it'll snap off. Or just get a set of "security" bits. These
fixings are anti tamper not security.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On May 10, 9:21*am, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

You'll probably find that if you bend it from side to side a few
times it'll snap off.

This works for real security Torx, made by Torx, of reasonable size.

For monkeymetal screws under toasters, it's another game. The pins
aren't hard, they just flop around. There's a risk of chewing the head
as fast as you get the pin out.

Or just get a set of "security" bits.

Far easier

Andy Dingley wrote:

For monkeymetal screws under toasters, it's another game. The pins
aren't hard, they just flop around. There's a risk of chewing the head
as fast as you get the pin out.

I shall attack it with pliers.

Or just get a set of "security" bits.

Far easier

Much less fun. Slower, too. I live in a land far far away from the
concept of DIY. So I pretty much *have* to order this sort of thing
from the UK.

Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

Much less fun. Slower, too. I live in a land far far away from the
concept of DIY. So I pretty much *have* to order this sort of thing
from the UK.

I eventually noticed that one of my cheap'n'nasty sets of fold-out
Torx drivers were of the anti-anti-bozo type anyway.

And having inspected the leccytronics inside - it's transistorised,
FFS - I don't think there's much I can do.

On 10/05/2011 16:50, Fevric J. Glandules wrote:
Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

Much less fun. Slower, too. I live in a land far far away from the
concept of DIY. So I pretty much *have* to order this sort of thing
from the UK.

I eventually noticed that one of my cheap'n'nasty sets of fold-out
Torx drivers were of the anti-anti-bozo type anyway.

And having inspected the leccytronics inside - it's transistorised,
FFS - I don't think there's much I can do.

Yup, should have had a valve in there to warm the toast up... progress,
what are they thinking off?

Mhmm, I'd quite like a toaster built to toast bread with a laser beam.
With the right guidance, it could write the morning paper's headlines on
there, an image of the lass on page 3, or scribe the time the slice came
out of the toaster so ye could choose the freshest bit.

OK, this should be possible with DIY. How many mW or MW required?

--
Adrian C

On Tue, 10 May 2011 15:50:56 +0000, Fevric J. Glandules wrote:


And having inspected the leccytronics inside - it's transistorised, FFS
- I don't think there's much I can do.

If ever a toaster worked reliably for more than about 12 months, all the
toaster manufacturers would go bust.

Murff...

On May 11, 3:50 am, "Fevric J. Glandules"
wrote:

And having inspected the leccytronics inside - it's transistorised,
FFS - I don't think there's much I can do.

Check the contacts that open and close when the handle is pushed down.
They can become dirty or corroded.

In message , Fevric J. Glandules
writes
Andy Dingley wrote:

For monkeymetal screws under toasters, it's another game. The pins
aren't hard, they just flop around. There's a risk of chewing the head
as fast as you get the pin out.

I shall attack it with pliers.

Or just get a set of "security" bits.

Far easier

Much less fun. Slower, too. I live in a land far far away from the
concept of DIY. So I pretty much *have* to order this sort of thing
from the UK.

Birmingham?

Make your own tool ...

--
geoff

August West wrote:

Forrisn
loved
belvie
their

Are you TNP in-disguise?

Castorama own the larger UK ones B&Q

No, they're both owned by Kingfisher

http://www.kingfisher.co.uk/index.asp?pageid=23

August West wrote:

Indeed, I belvie
their major DIY stores (Castorama) own the larger UK ones (B&Q), now.

Other way around.

Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

I could just drill out the screw entirely. I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

[1] Would "bolts" be more accurate?

The bits are easy to buy nowadays, screwfix do a couple or more sets ..
If you cba to buy anything a flat bladed screwdriver tapped into the
top often breaks the pin off ...

--
Paul - xxx

On 10/05/2011 09:06, Fevric J. Glandules wrote:
Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

I could just drill out the screw entirely. I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

[1] Would "bolts" be more accurate?

I had one or two on my pressure washer, and snapped the centre pins off,
using a spring-loaded centre punch.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

In article , Fevric J. Glandules
writes

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

If the screw head is not recessed, a small flat-blade screwdriver wedged
against the pin and given a sharp tap with a hammer breaks it off. You
can then use a standard Torx driver to remove the screw.

--
Mike Tomlinson

Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

I could just drill out the screw entirely. I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

Rummage around in your nuts-n-bolts tin and find some nuts large enough
to sit over the entire screw heads. Carefully fill the centre hole with
weld. Allow to cool and undo with appropriately sized spanner.
If you can't find an appropriately sized spanner, rummage around in your
nuts-n-bolts tin and find some bigger nuts large enough to sit over the
entire nuts. Carefully fill the centre hole with weld. Allow to cool and
undo with appropriately sized spanner. If you can't find an
appropriately sized spanner, rummage around in your nuts-n-bolts tin and
find some bigger nuts large enough to sit over the entire nuts.
Carefully fill the centre hole with weld. Allow to cool and undo with
appropriately sized spanner. Etc.

On 10/05/2011 09:06, Fevric J. Glandules wrote:
Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

I could just drill out the screw entirely. I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

[1] Would "bolts" be more accurate?

In addition to the other suggestion, if you have access, you can use a
hacksaw to cut a normal screwdriver-slot across the head.

--
Ron

On May 10, 9:06*am, "Fevric J. Glandules"
wrote:
Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. *Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. *(Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

I could just drill out the screw entirely. *I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

[1] Would "bolts" be more accurate?

No.

On May 10, 9:06*am, "Fevric J. Glandules"
wrote:
Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. *Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. *(Onfgneqf).

Anyone had success with drilling out the central pin?

I could just drill out the screw entirely. *I'm sure the
remaining four screws would do an adequate job.

Thoughts?

[1] Would "bolts" be more accurate?

No-one has yet suggested 'angle grinder'. What's going on here?

--
Halmyre

Halmyre wrote:

No-one has yet suggested 'angle grinder'. What's going on here?

A sudden outbreak of prudence in uk.d-i-y. How very worrying.

Fevric J. Glandules wrote:
Halmyre wrote:

No-one has yet suggested 'angle grinder'. What's going on here?

A sudden outbreak of prudence in uk.d-i-y. How very worrying.

Obllcosk, my welder suggestion can take on a nangle grinder any day.

In article ,
Fevric J. Glandules wrote:

No-one has yet suggested 'angle grinder'. What's going on here?

A sudden outbreak of prudence in uk.d-i-y. How very worrying.

It's the moderating influence of uk.misc.

-- Richard

In message , Fevric J. Glandules
writes
Toaster's on the blink and I want to have a crack at it.

The base plate is held on by six screws [1]. Four are cross-head;
two at one end are security Torx - i.e. Torx with a pin in the
middle to stop you using normal Torx drivers. (Onfgneqf).

Well you could buy some security Torx drivers, but that's no fun . . . I
had a similar problem on holiday, when I have to disassemble the villa's
microwave, just used my travelbag's always present multitool in long
nose plier mode to grip and turn the screws, and managed to get all the
security Torx out and back again.



--

bof at bof dot me dot uk