Further to an earlier post about getting power to a log cabin, now a
question about the internal wiring...

The cabin I'll be building is constructed of 45mm internal and external
walls with a 70mm cavity. The cavity will have foil backed insulation
board inserted.

Not being a fan of surface wiring I'd like to recess the sockets,
probably by cutting a suitable hall in the inner wall and fixing a dry
lining box with a couple of screws through the sides (as the wood is too
thick for the normal clamp arrangement).

Question - Is it OK to just fit T&E in the cavity before fitting the
insulation? Is there a potential issue with the non-bonded foil backed
insulation in this scenario? I'll have the choice of where to fit the
garage style CU so the wiring could run round the top and down or round
the base of the wall and up - The latter would mean the cable is less
likely to be accidentally damaged by a future owner, though there will
need to be a vertical run for the light switch of course!

A similar cabin is shown going up he

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxLd6...eature=related

and the wiring is show around 1:25 in...

TIA

Peter

On May 3, 10:39*pm, Peter Watson wrote:
Further to an earlier post about getting power to a log cabin, now a
question about the internal wiring...

The cabin I'll be building is constructed of 45mm internal and external
walls with a 70mm cavity. *The cavity will have foil backed insulation
board inserted.

Not being a fan of surface wiring I'd like to recess the sockets,
probably by cutting a suitable hall in the inner wall and fixing a dry
lining box with a couple of screws through the sides (as the wood is too
thick for the normal clamp arrangement).

Question - Is it OK to just fit T&E in the cavity before fitting the
insulation? *Is there a potential issue with the non-bonded foil backed
insulation in this scenario? *I'll have the choice of where to fit the
garage style CU so the wiring could run round the top and down or round
the base of the wall and up - The latter would mean the cable is less
likely to be accidentally damaged by a future owner, though there will
need to be a vertical run for the light switch of course!

A similar cabin is shown going up he

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxLd6...eature=related

and the wiring is show around 1:25 in...

TIA

Peter

I'd use ordinary backboxes, not dry liners


NT

On 03/05/2011 23:24, Tabby wrote:


I'd use ordinary backboxes, not dry liners


NT

Any particular reason?

Thanks,

Peter

On 03/05/2011 23:27, John Rumm wrote:
On 03/05/2011 22:39, Peter Watson wrote:
Further to an earlier post about getting power to a log cabin, now a
question about the internal wiring...

The cabin I'll be building is constructed of 45mm internal and external
walls with a 70mm cavity. The cavity will have foil backed insulation
board inserted.

Not being a fan of surface wiring I'd like to recess the sockets,
probably by cutting a suitable hall in the inner wall and fixing a dry
lining box with a couple of screws through the sides (as the wood is too
thick for the normal clamp arrangement).

Question - Is it OK to just fit T&E in the cavity before fitting the
insulation? Is there a potential issue with the non-bonded foil backed

You don't want the cables buried in insulation if possible - they are
better off in contact with one of the inner surfaces of the timber. This
could mean surface wiring the inside of the outer leaf for example, or
fixing the wiring on top of the inner surface of the insulation prior to
fitting the inner skin.

I'm hoping to clip to the cavity side of the inner leaf - My concern was
whether I need any extra mechanical protection for the cable...


This assumes the insulation is PIR foam boards or similar and not
something that will react with the PVC such as polystyrene.

The boards are PIR I believe - Quest Therm?

insulation in this scenario? I'll have the choice of where to fit the
garage style CU so the wiring could run round the top and down or round
the base of the wall and up - The latter would mean the cable is less
likely to be accidentally damaged by a future owner, though there will
need to be a vertical run for the light switch of course!

You could run round at socket height without going up or down - depends
a little on the nature of use and where you want your sockets.

Most sockets at low level but probably a couple at around 800-900mm to
be above a desk plus a light switch so most wiring can be at low level.

On May 4, 10:39*pm, Peter Watson wrote:
On 03/05/2011 23:24, Tabby wrote:



I'd use ordinary backboxes, not dry liners

NT

Any particular reason?

Thanks,

Peter

one is fully suitable, one isnt. I cant imagine why you'd use
drylines.


NT

Peter Watson wrote:
On 03/05/2011 23:24, Tabby wrote:


I'd use ordinary backboxes, not dry liners


NT

Any particular reason?


It would better job.

--
Adam