I don't normally go near it but yesterday I did and broke it.

I was using the liquidiser attachment.
The speed control knob has a feature that if you turn it a little to the
left it goes at max speed. This is sprung loaded so returns (normally) to
'off'. Only it didn't , I turned it to the left and it went past the stop
and refuses to turn back to the corrrect position.

I've tried, with reasonable force to pull this knob off, thinking it might
be similar to a cooker knob but failed.


I'm getting a lot of grief so if anyone can offer any advice with regards
fixing the problem, I would be grateful.

mark

On 11/04/11 20:05, mark wrote:


I'm getting a lot of grief so if anyone can offer any advice with regards
fixing the problem, I would be grateful.

Large box of chocolates and a bunch of flowers would seem to be the
obvious first step.




--
Bernard Peek

mark wrote:
I don't normally go near it but yesterday I did and broke it.

I was using the liquidiser attachment.
The speed control knob has a feature that if you turn it a little to the
left it goes at max speed. This is sprung loaded so returns (normally) to
'off'. Only it didn't , I turned it to the left and it went past the stop
and refuses to turn back to the corrrect position.

I've tried, with reasonable force to pull this knob off, thinking it might
be similar to a cooker knob but failed.


I'm getting a lot of grief so if anyone can offer any advice with regards
fixing the problem, I would be grateful.


you fail to say what model, but our very old one which I successfully
repaired is a very simple beast. The knob actually in ours works a cam
that seems to compress a blob of what I take to be variable resistance
material

You can get the things more or less apart by removing the base.

There are a lot of online help topics as well. I diagnosed mine as blown
capacitors which indeed was the case.

It is 35 years old, maybe more. and spares are still available. so there
is no excuse for you at least opening it up.

Tale photos though as you dont want to forget how to reassemble.


mark

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 20:17:51 +0100, Bernard Peek wrote:

I'm getting a lot of grief so if anyone can offer any advice with
regards fixing the problem, I would be grateful.

Large box of chocolates and a bunch of flowers would seem to be the
obvious first step.

But kept hidden until the problem is owned up to or discovered,
otherwise suspicions will be aroused.

--
Cheers
Dave.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
mark wrote:
I don't normally go near it but yesterday I did and broke it.

I was using the liquidiser attachment.
The speed control knob has a feature that if you turn it a little
to the left it goes at max speed. This is sprung loaded so returns
(normally) to 'off'. Only it didn't , I turned it to the left and
it went past the stop and refuses to turn back to the corrrect
position. I've tried, with reasonable force to pull this knob off,
thinking it
might be similar to a cooker knob but failed.


I'm getting a lot of grief so if anyone can offer any advice with
regards fixing the problem, I would be grateful.


you fail to say what model, but our very old one which I successfully
repaired is a very simple beast. The knob actually in ours works a cam
that seems to compress a blob of what I take to be variable resistance
material

You can get the things more or less apart by removing the base.

There are a lot of online help topics as well. I diagnosed mine as
blown capacitors which indeed was the case.

It is 35 years old, maybe more. and spares are still available. so
there is no excuse for you at least opening it up.

Tale photos though as you dont want to forget how to reassemble.


Mine's even simpler, I have a centrifugal switch where the knob via a cam
compresses a spring increasing contact time (with feedback) to make it go
faster.

In article , says...
Mine's even simpler, I have a centrifugal switch where the knob via a cam
compresses a spring increasing contact time (with feedback) to make it go
faster.

Cor - we had one like that in the 60s. IIRC it's still going strong and
my sister's got it. The bang-bang speed control was very noisy.

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

mark wrote:
I don't normally go near it but yesterday I did and broke it.

I was using the liquidiser attachment.
The speed control knob has a feature that if you turn it a little to
the left it goes at max speed. This is sprung loaded so returns
(normally) to 'off'. Only it didn't , I turned it to the left and it
went past the stop and refuses to turn back to the corrrect position.

I've tried, with reasonable force to pull this knob off, thinking it
might be similar to a cooker knob but failed.

It doesn't pull off IIRC. Prise out the central part of the knob, the label
bit saying kenwood, and there's a spring clip or something like that holding
it on. Yours may be different ofc, as ours is just over 30 years old.

On 11/04/11 20:56, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 20:17:51 +0100, Bernard Peek wrote:

I'm getting a lot of grief so if anyone can offer any advice with
regards fixing the problem, I would be grateful.

Large box of chocolates and a bunch of flowers would seem to be the
obvious first step.

But kept hidden until the problem is owned up to or discovered,
otherwise suspicions will be aroused.

From the original posting I gathered that the excrement had already
reached the air impeller. So some sort of remedial action seemed called
for. Chocolates and flowers fix lots of problems but the more serious
ones may also require the application of new Manolo Blahniks.

--
Bernard Peek

Skipweasel wrote:

In article , says...
Mine's even simpler, I have a centrifugal switch where the knob via a cam
compresses a spring increasing contact time (with feedback) to make it go
faster.

Cor - we had one like that in the 60s. IIRC it's still going strong and
my sister's got it. The bang-bang speed control was very noisy.

I think mine is of similar vintage. IIRC, when they brought out
the first "electronic" version, they didn't really make it much
more sophisticated, simply inserted a triac (or something
similar) so that the contact didn't switch the load directly.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

Chris J Dixon wrote:
Skipweasel wrote:

In article , says...
Mine's even simpler, I have a centrifugal switch where the knob via a cam
compresses a spring increasing contact time (with feedback) to make it go
faster.
Cor - we had one like that in the 60s. IIRC it's still going strong and
my sister's got it. The bang-bang speed control was very noisy.

I think mine is of similar vintage. IIRC, when they brought out
the first "electronic" version, they didn't really make it much
more sophisticated, simply inserted a triac (or something
similar) so that the contact didn't switch the load directly.


I think ours is the 'first triac' type and as far as I can tell, the
dial squashes a black rubbery blob, that controls the input to that
triac. I.e. they have made a variable pot out of this black blob and a
cam that squeezes it.


I can confirm that removing the knob center allows access to a circlip
(IIRC : possibly a screw) that lets you remove the knob, but I decided
to leave ours in place, as it appeared to be fully functional.

But really, these are a fair delight to fix, being built before the days
on unserviceable PCBs and chips.

Chris

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Chris J Dixon wrote:
Skipweasel wrote:

In article , says...
Mine's even simpler, I have a centrifugal switch where the knob via a
cam compresses a spring increasing contact time (with feedback) to make
it go faster.
Cor - we had one like that in the 60s. IIRC it's still going strong and
my sister's got it. The bang-bang speed control was very noisy.

I think mine is of similar vintage. IIRC, when they brought out
the first "electronic" version, they didn't really make it much
more sophisticated, simply inserted a triac (or something
similar) so that the contact didn't switch the load directly.


I think ours is the 'first triac' type and as far as I can tell, the dial
squashes a black rubbery blob, that controls the input to that triac. I.e.
they have made a variable pot out of this black blob and a cam that
squeezes it.


I can confirm that removing the knob center allows access to a circlip
(IIRC : possibly a screw) that lets you remove the knob, but I decided to
leave ours in place, as it appeared to be fully functional.

But really, these are a fair delight to fix, being built before the days
on unserviceable PCBs and chips.



OP writing:.
The machine is a modern one which I bought online. It is still in warranty
but I don't want it 'gone away' for weeks if it is something within the
realms of my capability (limited!). It does feel as though the dial pushes
against a rubbery blob.

mark

On Tuesday, 12 April 2011 13:40:18 UTC+1, mark wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Chris J Dixon wrote:
Skipweasel wrote:

In article , says...
Mine's even simpler, I have a centrifugal switch where the knob via a
cam compresses a spring increasing contact time (with feedback) to make
it go faster.
Cor - we had one like that in the 60s. IIRC it's still going strong and
my sister's got it. The bang-bang speed control was very noisy.

I think mine is of similar vintage. IIRC, when they brought out
the first "electronic" version, they didn't really make it much
more sophisticated, simply inserted a triac (or something
similar) so that the contact didn't switch the load directly.


I think ours is the 'first triac' type and as far as I can tell, the dial
squashes a black rubbery blob, that controls the input to that triac. I.e.
they have made a variable pot out of this black blob and a cam that
squeezes it.


I can confirm that removing the knob center allows access to a circlip
(IIRC : possibly a screw) that lets you remove the knob, but I decided to
leave ours in place, as it appeared to be fully functional.

But really, these are a fair delight to fix, being built before the days
on unserviceable PCBs and chips.



OP writing:.
The machine is a modern one which I bought online. It is still in warranty
but I don't want it 'gone away' for weeks if it is something within the
realms of my capability (limited!). It does feel as though the dial pushes
against a rubbery blob.

mark

My knob had been turned too far on my KM010 Chef Titanium. I managed to get mine apart and correct the positioning. Took a few snaps as it was difficult to work out how to start! https://youtu.be/Hw-L6Dk9eL4

2011?
The glue should be dry by now, time to test if it works..:-)
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, 12 April 2011 13:40:18 UTC+1, mark wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Chris J Dixon wrote:
Skipweasel wrote:

In article , says...
Mine's even simpler, I have a centrifugal switch where the knob via
a
cam compresses a spring increasing contact time (with feedback) to
make
it go faster.
Cor - we had one like that in the 60s. IIRC it's still going strong
and
my sister's got it. The bang-bang speed control was very noisy.

I think mine is of similar vintage. IIRC, when they brought out
the first "electronic" version, they didn't really make it much
more sophisticated, simply inserted a triac (or something
similar) so that the contact didn't switch the load directly.


I think ours is the 'first triac' type and as far as I can tell, the
dial
squashes a black rubbery blob, that controls the input to that triac.
I.e.
they have made a variable pot out of this black blob and a cam that
squeezes it.


I can confirm that removing the knob center allows access to a circlip
(IIRC : possibly a screw) that lets you remove the knob, but I decided
to
leave ours in place, as it appeared to be fully functional.

But really, these are a fair delight to fix, being built before the
days
on unserviceable PCBs and chips.



OP writing:.
The machine is a modern one which I bought online. It is still in
warranty
but I don't want it 'gone away' for weeks if it is something within the
realms of my capability (limited!). It does feel as though the dial
pushes
against a rubbery blob.

mark

My knob had been turned too far on my KM010 Chef Titanium. I managed to
get mine apart and correct the positioning. Took a few snaps as it was
difficult to work out how to start! https://youtu.be/Hw-L6Dk9eL4

On 26/06/16 08:31, Brian Gaff wrote:
2011?
The glue should be dry by now, time to test if it works..:-)
Brian

Well that kenwood got its new parts and is still AFAIK working fine.


--
"When one man dies it's a tragedy. When thousands die it's statistics."

Josef Stalin