I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

On Mar 25, 1:41 pm, sm_jamieson wrote:
I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

is a test on a single block fair though? shurely as part of a wall
there would be more forces holding it all together than a solitary
single block?

Jim K

On Mar 25, 1:51*pm, Jim K wrote:
On Mar 25, 1:41 pm, sm_jamieson wrote:



I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. *normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

is a test on a single block fair though? shurely as part of a wall
there would be more forces holding it all together than a solitary
single block?

Yes and no I would think. But it gives an idea.
Yes there are more forces around etc. Relevant to the likelihood of
cracking.
But also, my block was flat against the floor so better supported than
in a wall.
The idea was to slice the block afterwards and see what had happened
to the one with legs.
Simon.

On Mar 25, 3:17 pm, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Mar 25, 1:51 pm, Jim K wrote:

On Mar 25, 1:41 pm, sm_jamieson wrote:

I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

is a test on a single block fair though? shurely as part of a wall
there would be more forces holding it all together than a solitary
single block?

Yes and no I would think. But it gives an idea.
Yes there are more forces around etc. Relevant to the likelihood of
cracking.
But also, my block was flat against the floor so better supported than
in a wall.

but if I read it right you say that the act of banging in the plug in
50mm from the edge made the block break and that edge come away?

Shurely a more worthwhile "experment" would place the plug in the
middle of a solitary block rather than the near an edge? even then the
behaviour of a block in a wall of lightweight blocks may not be
extrapolatable (is that a word?!) from one block in isolation...

Jim K

On Mar 25, 6:10*pm, Jim K wrote:
On Mar 25, 3:17 pm, sm_jamieson wrote:



On Mar 25, 1:51 pm, Jim K wrote:

On Mar 25, 1:41 pm, sm_jamieson wrote:

I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. *normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise..

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

is a test on a single block fair though? shurely as part of a wall
there would be more forces holding it all together than a solitary
single block?

Yes and no I would think. But it gives an idea.
Yes there are more forces around etc. Relevant to the likelihood of
cracking.
But also, my block was flat against the floor so better supported than
in a wall.

but if I read it right you say that the act of banging in the plug in
50mm from the edge made the block break and that edge come away?

Shurely a more worthwhile "experment" would place the plug in the
middle of a solitary block rather than the near an edge? even then the
behaviour of a block in a wall of lightweight blocks may not be
extrapolatable (is that a word?!) from one block in isolation...

Oh I tried in in the middle of the block as well. And it was OK. Still
had to bash it pretty hard though.
The thing by the edge was just an observation.
I'll tell you one thing though. Any aircrete wall is extrapolatable in
its entirety compared to
a solid block wall. Any you get the shrinkage cracks.
I kind of wish I'd done the inner leaf in concrete blocks, but then
the walls would have been
thicker and a bit less space inside. You can't have everything.
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:

I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

I just stick with long screws and long plugs (Fischer SX8L 65mm length,
though they are a pig to buy) or frame fixings (one of the Fischer ones is
very suitable - lots of grips along more of its length than is common).

If it needs to be *mentally* strong, like a basin without pedastal or a loo
cistern, I use (optionally stainless) studding and resin-mortar those in to
about 3" into the block - reckon the thread will strip before they come out


--
Tim Watts

On Mar 25, 3:34*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. *normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

I just stick with long screws and long plugs (Fischer SX8L 65mm length,
though they are a pig to buy) or frame fixings (one of the Fischer ones is
very suitable - lots of grips along more of its length than is common).

If it needs to be *mentally* strong, like a basin without pedastal or a loo
cistern, I use (optionally stainless) studding and resin-mortar those in to
about 3" into the block - reckon the thread will strip before they come out


I tend to put 2 smallish plugs in in series if the wall's weak.


NT

On Mar 25, 1:41*pm, sm_jamieson wrote:
I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. *normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

This could be useful on the wiki, mind if its added?


NT

On Mar 25, 4:09*pm, Tabby wrote:
On Mar 25, 1:41*pm, sm_jamieson wrote:



I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. *normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good.

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

This could be useful on the wiki, mind if its added?


By all means.
I think the special anchors are designed with the very lightweight
aircrete in mind
(solar blocks etc). I was using "thermalite shield" which I think is
slightly more dense.
When I get around to it I'll obtain a single solar block and test on
that too. Such tests
may be more relevant.
Simon.

On Mar 25, 4:37*pm, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Mar 25, 4:09*pm, Tabby wrote:



On Mar 25, 1:41*pm, sm_jamieson wrote:

I've now got some
A . square nylon aircrete anchors whose legs are supposed to spread
out
B. fischer GB8 plugs with helical fins
C. *normal screw-in frame fixings
My aircrete blocks were the slightly stronger type than the solar
blocks.

Results:
A. In my blocks without a pilot hole you have to hammer these so hard
I'm sure my wall would crack. I tried it on a lone block and 50mm from
the edge the block cracked and edge fell away.
If you put a pilot hole the fins do not spread and I could pull these
out with a mole grip. They fixed in fairly strong but were in effect
just a normal plug since if the pilot hole is all the way the fins do
not spread. A pilot hole some of the way may be the best compromise.

B. Hammering in needs as much force as (A) but pull-out was very good..

C. Fairly far into the block (past half way) with 0.5mm smaller pilot
hole than recommended, and tighten with screw. Pull-out seemed as good
as with B.

Hum.
So I'm not sure the special aircrete fixings are that wonderful. (C)
is the best overall if your wall withstands the battering.

Anyone else got info to add ?

Simon.

This could be useful on the wiki, mind if its added?

By all means.
I think the special anchors are designed with the very lightweight
aircrete in mind
(solar blocks etc). I was using "thermalite shield" which I think is
slightly more dense.
When I get around to it I'll obtain a single solar block and test on
that too. Such tests
may be more relevant.
Simon.

lovely, thanks.


NT