really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Jim K

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Pitch pine will last for decades.

--
Frank Erskine

On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Pitch pine will last for decades.

--
Frank Erskine

can you still get it easily??

Jim K

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:20:32 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Pitch pine will last for decades.

--
Frank Erskine

can you still get it easily??

You'd have to ask your timber merchant.

You certainly won't get any from B&Q.

--
Frank Erskine

On Feb 15, 10:41*am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:20:32 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:



On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Pitch pine will last for decades.

--
Frank Erskine

can you still get it easily??

You'd have to ask your timber merchant.

You certainly won't get any from B&Q.


Creosote is the most effective wood preservative avilable.
Oak one of teh most durable woods.

"Jim K" wrote in message
...
really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA


Sash windows have been made of Softwood for several hundred years. Benefit
from the tradition and experience and do likewise. You need to buy the right
quality of softwood for joinery. This is known as 'Joinery Quality' softwood
so it's easy to remember.

If you want to do better than that then after you have made and fitted the
sashes but before they are primed give them several coats of clear
preservative. You will need time for this - full drying time for
preservative can be some days even inside in the warm.

Tim W

On 15/02/2011 11:23, Tim W wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
...
really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA


Sash windows have been made of Softwood for several hundred years. Benefit
from the tradition and experience and do likewise. You need to buy the right
quality of softwood for joinery. This is known as 'Joinery Quality' softwood
so it's easy to remember.

If you want to do better than that then after you have made and fitted the
sashes but before they are primed give them several coats of clear
preservative. You will need time for this - full drying time for
preservative can be some days even inside in the warm.

Tim W



Absolutely. Sliding sashes are less vulnerable by design than a casement
type window, but most eventually fail at the bottom rail due to water
getting behind the putty.
The extra thickness/weight of DG panels creates problems if you're
retaining the original box

On Feb 15, 10:41 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:20:32 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:



On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Pitch pine will last for decades.

--
Frank Erskine

can you still get it easily??

You'd have to ask your timber merchant.

Have you bought any recently?

You certainly won't get any from B&Q.

who they? ;)

Jim K

On Feb 15, 10:59 am, Tabby wrote:
On Feb 15, 10:41 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:



On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:20:32 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Pitch pine will last for decades.

--
Frank Erskine

can you still get it easily??

You'd have to ask your timber merchant.

You certainly won't get any from B&Q.

Creosote is the most effective wood preservative avilable.

yup a nice, stinky, rustic, unpaintable, agricultural outdoor finish
totally unsuitable for the project...

Oak one of teh most durable woods.

but does it warp n twist any more than others?

Jim K

On Feb 15, 11:38 am, stuart noble wrote:
On 15/02/2011 11:23, Tim W wrote:



"Jim wrote in message
...
really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Sash windows have been made of Softwood for several hundred years. Benefit
from the tradition and experience and do likewise. You need to buy the right
quality of softwood for joinery. This is known as 'Joinery Quality' softwood
so it's easy to remember.

If you want to do better than that then after you have made and fitted the
sashes but before they are primed give them several coats of clear
preservative. You will need time for this - full drying time for
preservative can be some days even inside in the warm.

Tim W

Absolutely. Sliding sashes are less vulnerable by design than a casement
type window, but most eventually fail at the bottom rail due to water
getting behind the putty.

and by condensation pooling on the inside...

The extra thickness/weight of DG panels creates problems if you're
retaining the original box

yup - lead weights will sort that with possible fixed top sashes
releasing extra space in the weight boxes for the lower sash weights -
or even use both sets of weights for the lower sashes....

Jim K

On Feb 15, 10:20*am, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine

Pitch pine will last for decades.

can you still get it easily??

You only need thin sections, so look at recycled. If you're near a
Victorian city, there's probably someone with stocks of old roof
beams.

On Feb 15, 11:54*am, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 15, 10:59 am, Tabby wrote:



On Feb 15, 10:41 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:20:32 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

TIA

Pitch pine will last for decades.

--
Frank Erskine

can you still get it easily??

You'd have to ask your timber merchant.

You certainly won't get any from B&Q.

Creosote is the most effective wood preservative avilable.

yup a nice, stinky, rustic, unpaintable, agricultural outdoor finish
totally unsuitable for the project...

If youre prepared to let them outgas for a few weeks before fitting,
and are going with a dark stain finish its the best preservative
going.


NT

Tabby wrote:
On Feb 15, 10:41 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:20:32 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:



On Feb 15, 10:00 am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 01:44:28 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:
really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..
what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?
any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?
I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...
TIA
Pitch pine will last for decades.
--
Frank Erskine
can you still get it easily??
You'd have to ask your timber merchant.

You certainly won't get any from B&Q.


Creosote is the most effective wood preservative avilable.
Oak one of teh most durable woods.
But it warps like buggery.

better to use tropical hardwood and treat with plenty of paint..

On Feb 15, 6:58*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

better to use tropical hardwood and treat with plenty of paint..

Non alkyd paint!

On Feb 15, 9:44*am, Jim K wrote:
really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...


Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David Paste wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim K wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

On Feb 19, 10:17 am, stuart noble wrote:
On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

care to expand? how small a section we talking? and how short a
lifespan?

can't say I've noticed any issues with any of our timber windows with
exterior beads (hard or treated softwood)...

Jim K

On 19/02/2011 11:10, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 10:17 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

care to expand? how small a section we talking? and how short a
lifespan?

can't say I've noticed any issues with any of our timber windows with
exterior beads (hard or treated softwood)...

Jim K

In my case, with a Magnet casement style window facing south west, a
couple of years was all I got out of the bottom bead. I replaced it
umpteen times over the years before switching to upvc. Had the moulded
edge been part of a larger section, I think it would have lasted longer.

On Feb 19, 11:45 am, stuart noble wrote:
On 19/02/2011 11:10, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 19, 10:17 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

care to expand? how small a section we talking? and how short a
lifespan?

can't say I've noticed any issues with any of our timber windows with
exterior beads (hard or treated softwood)...

Jim K

In my case, with a Magnet casement style window facing south west, a
couple of years was all I got out of the bottom bead. I replaced it
umpteen times over the years before switching to upvc. Had the moulded
edge been part of a larger section, I think it would have lasted longer.

how was the DG unit fixed to the wood? silicone and beads?

Jim K

On 19/02/2011 12:30, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 11:45 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 11:10, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 19, 10:17 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

care to expand? how small a section we talking? and how short a
lifespan?

can't say I've noticed any issues with any of our timber windows with
exterior beads (hard or treated softwood)...

Jim K

In my case, with a Magnet casement style window facing south west, a
couple of years was all I got out of the bottom bead. I replaced it
umpteen times over the years before switching to upvc. Had the moulded
edge been part of a larger section, I think it would have lasted longer.

how was the DG unit fixed to the wood? silicone and beads?

Jim K

Yep. It was a stepped DG unit

On Feb 19, 3:49 pm, stuart noble wrote:
On 19/02/2011 12:30, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 19, 11:45 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 11:10, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 19, 10:17 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

care to expand? how small a section we talking? and how short a
lifespan?

can't say I've noticed any issues with any of our timber windows with
exterior beads (hard or treated softwood)...

Jim K

In my case, with a Magnet casement style window facing south west, a
couple of years was all I got out of the bottom bead. I replaced it
umpteen times over the years before switching to upvc. Had the moulded
edge been part of a larger section, I think it would have lasted longer.

how was the DG unit fixed to the wood? silicone and beads?

Jim K

Yep. It was a stepped DG unit

MMMM maybe explains it - water getting trapped behind through failed
silicone seal?

ages ago I swapped to drained and vented construction - no issues yet
7 years so far - not even repainted some of em yet!!

Jim K

On 19/02/2011 17:45, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 3:49 pm, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 12:30, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 19, 11:45 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 11:10, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 19, 10:17 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

care to expand? how small a section we talking? and how short a
lifespan?

can't say I've noticed any issues with any of our timber windows with
exterior beads (hard or treated softwood)...

Jim K

In my case, with a Magnet casement style window facing south west, a
couple of years was all I got out of the bottom bead. I replaced it
umpteen times over the years before switching to upvc. Had the moulded
edge been part of a larger section, I think it would have lasted longer.

how was the DG unit fixed to the wood? silicone and beads?

Jim K

Yep. It was a stepped DG unit

MMMM maybe explains it - water getting trapped behind through failed
silicone seal?

ages ago I swapped to drained and vented construction - no issues yet
7 years so far - not even repainted some of em yet!!

Jim K

South facing?

On Feb 19, 9:13*am, Jim K wrote:

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Your guess is as good as mine Jim, but yes, I expect money is involved
somewhere!

On Feb 19, 3:49*pm, stuart noble wrote:

how was the DG unit fixed to the wood? silicone and beads?

Jim K

Yep. It was a stepped DG unit

Was the paint carried slightly onto the glass? I have had excellent
results in keeping condensation out by painting onto the glass by
1-2mm or so.

On Feb 19, 6:46 pm, stuart noble wrote:
On 19/02/2011 17:45, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 19, 3:49 pm, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 12:30, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 19, 11:45 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 11:10, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 19, 10:17 am, stuart wrote:
On 19/02/2011 09:13, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 17, 10:23 pm, David wrote:
On Feb 15, 9:44 am, Jim wrote:

really is time I tried to make some new dble glazed sashes for me 6
sash windas here..

what species of wood would suit the job? (and vice versa)?

any tips/gotchas on selecting/inspecting individual pieces/lengths?

I am thinking how to avoid them warping or otherwise "failing
requiring re-doing" ...

Have a squizz at this:

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

It might be useful to you.

interesting in parts but nothing gritty
?why doesnt he use narrow plant-on glazing bars and subdivided sealed
units to maintain the historical look he drones on about?? (answer cos
it's his business and that would make them too easy to make so cheaper
for the punters..?)

Jim K

Any small section planted on to glass will have a very short lifespan
IME e.g. exterior hardwood beads

care to expand? how small a section we talking? and how short a
lifespan?

can't say I've noticed any issues with any of our timber windows with
exterior beads (hard or treated softwood)...

Jim K

In my case, with a Magnet casement style window facing south west, a
couple of years was all I got out of the bottom bead. I replaced it
umpteen times over the years before switching to upvc. Had the moulded
edge been part of a larger section, I think it would have lasted longer.

how was the DG unit fixed to the wood? silicone and beads?

Jim K

Yep. It was a stepped DG unit

MMMM maybe explains it - water getting trapped behind through failed
silicone seal?

ages ago I swapped to drained and vented construction - no issues yet
7 years so far - not even repainted some of em yet!!

Jim K

South facing?

yes - total of 7 DG units (over 4 timber windows) face south - tho
some tree cover from late afternoon ~5pm.

Jim K